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Old 08-18-2017, 01:11 AM   #101
KeatonHo
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Do you have the photos that were cut down by photobucket? The first post of the ej207 diagram I suppose... I've had an issue with boost surging since I bought the car and this is starting to seem like the culprit. I haven't got around to boost testing yet but if the valve will come off the hose by bumping it, I'm pretty sure it isn't holding any psi. Just had a code for P0457 (blue T was disconnected) so I'm glad it led me to this. It has come on the last 3 fill ups, and I just thought it was me overfilling the tank or not tightening the cap well enough. Thanks for the help. Hopefully you can get the diagram up? Thanks
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Old 11-03-2017, 04:51 PM   #102
andrew6571
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Can someone answer this for me? I broke my Evap valve on my ej205 but I had one laying around from a ej255. I compared resistance and they were the same basically. They have different part numbers but do they really work differently at all? Or is there a negative side effect from this putting the one from a 255 on my 205.
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:55 AM   #103
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Default Hello, new with vacuum issues

Hello, i am new to this site and need to do legitimate post before making my own... but i currently bought a 02 subaru wrx, 4eat. Ive done everything you possibly can to it minus an actual engine build. But i cant seem to get a solid answer... i upgraded PnP oem intake manifold, PnP oem throttle body, PnP TGV delete tumblers, upgraded 16g turbo (not stock pill orifice/restrictor), silicone turbo inlet, aftermarket intake build, FMIC, 565cc injectors, 250lph walboro fuel pump, manual FPR, BoV, boost gauge ( T located there), evap valve 3 deleted, solenoid still there... in the process of this i put in 90%new hoses, vacuum and coolant. The hoses from thr BCS were replaced and pill removed, and new one put in for upgraded turbo, the entire hose line was replaced so they have no restrictors..The one thing ive noticed though is that with the evap valve and solenoid they had what looked like at the time connectors so they connected bigger hoses to smaller, but are they restrictors for certain air flow? My main thing is that when my car is idled and at normal idle its reading about -27inhg... is this because of all the new hoses, ive added, or because of the evap valve delete, or do i need a une to set things right? Please someone help me i do not see a vacuum leak anywhere. And i Cannon take it out and drive because i need to finish bleeding the coolant, and need a tune. Where should i start because i know itz suppose to be reading between 19-22inHG and mines at roughly 27hg
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Old 12-29-2017, 04:59 AM   #104
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Yeah should operate the same, only difference
S you need to worry about with switching stuff is the electronics. Like maf or map, because they have preset readings for flow. But the valve zhould be okay... you should just take it out and do a delete
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Old 12-29-2017, 05:12 AM   #105
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Default Hello, new with vacuum issues not trying to jump

Hello, im new and fant post my own threads... hope this is realatuve and can be helped pls! Hello, i am new to this site and need to do legitimate post before making my own... but i currently bought a 02 subaru wrx, 4eat. Ive done everything you possibly can to it minus an actual engine build. But i cant seem to get a solid answer... i upgraded PnP oem intake manifold, PnP oem throttle body, PnP TGV delete tumblers, upgraded 16g turbo (not stock pill orifice/restrictor), silicone turbo inlet, aftermarket intake build, FMIC, 565cc injectors, 250lph walboro fuel pump, manual FPR, BoV, boost gauge ( T located there), evap valve 3 deleted, solenoid still there... in the process of this i put in 90%new hoses, vacuum and coolant. The hoses from thr BCS were replaced and pill removed, and new one put in for upgraded turbo, the entire hose line was replaced so they have no restrictors..The one thing ive noticed though is that with the evap valve and solenoid they had what looked like at the time connectors so they connected bigger hoses to smaller, but are they restrictors for certain air flow? My main thing is that when my car is idled and at normal idle its reading about -27inhg... is this because of all the new hoses, ive added, or because of the evap valve delete, or do i need a une to set things right? Please someone help me i do not see a vacuum leak anywhere. And i Can not take it out and drive because i need to finish bleeding the coolant, and need a solid tune. My main thing is, should it be reading around inHG27 on my boost gauge, after installing all those parts, or should it still be reading between the 19-22inHG? All the replacment hoses are basicay the same size... and is this something a tuner can fixx when getting tuned?
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Old 12-29-2017, 08:50 AM   #106
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You have two things that may have happened and there's no way to tell:

1. You installed the wrong size hose and/or wrong restrictors. One does NOT replace hoses with ones that are "basically the same size". You get an old hose and you get the EXACT new one...either OEM replacement or you measure the ID and length and order the same ID and length ID hose based on what is going through said hose.
2. You replaced 983 things at once that can affect vacuum. Was one of the old components crap and you made your old/bad vacuum better and -27 is your new norm? We have no way of knowing.

You need to get this to a mechanic. You also need a brand new MAF and oxygen sensor as your car is quite old and they need replaced and you need to clean your IACV...instructions for that are in the maintenance forum.
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Old 05-11-2018, 08:50 AM   #107
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Default Place to get hoses

I read that while OEM hoses are an easy option, you could also make your own.

Once I find out the lengths and diameters for my 02 WRX, would I go to a hardware store like Home Depot to find the hoses, or an autoparts store like Autozone?

Thank you
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Old 08-08-2018, 02:00 PM   #108
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I know this is an old thread but I was wondering if you guys could help me out. I have a 1994 GC subaru that I have fully swapped with an EJ205, 02 wrx subframes, drivetrain, etc. I recently swapped the wrx gas tank over as well, since on stage rally I was running out of gas too quickly with the GC tank. The WRX had the charcoal canister and all that BS mentioned in the post here. I deleted all of that when it was on the WRX and it ran fine. I have now swapped the tank to my GC and it does not want to fill up with fuel. I am using the GC filler neck and it had a bigger atmospheric vent hose then the wrx did. I used the large hose size from the WRX fuel vent valve on the top of the tank and ran it to the filler neck, thinking this would help allow the car to fill. No luck. I have found if I simply uncap the fuel line going from the driver side port on top of gas tank (goes to passenger side and I think used to go to canister) it vents enough to let me fill the tank. I was looking for help on how I can vent my gas tank so it will fill up and run properly. I was thinking about just venting to atmosphere in another spot, but in the event of a rollover the fuel would spill everywhere and possibly catch the car on fire. Perhaps I can use the fuel vent valve but I just have it hooked up wrong? Help please!
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:57 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXwrxWagon View Post
Po457 back again... grrrr.... about a month or so ago I did the recommended "purge delete", installed a new OE Subaru gas cap. OE Subaru Evap Solenoid. Wire ties and got rid of all the other stuff as outlined.

PERFECT! problem solved. went away until today. I'm fighting a surging boost issue and have isolated it to the EBCS. So I have been staying out of heavy boost. Got a little boost heavy in an avoidance maneuver today (about 12-14psi) and after I backed off and settled to cruise, I look down ORANGE dang light again!

I'm picking up a Walbro pump tomorrow evening to swap and will check everything at the fuel pump stand end. but this is getting crazy. How can it be fine and not even hit full boost and all the sudden P0457 leak/loose fuel cap come back!?

~Rob
Well, well, 3 years almost to the day. 100K miles more And here I am again... time for inspection and the car won't go to ready mode on the OBDII, and then the CEL's start.

Codes: P0457 with the JDM Vacuum routing. and now the P0131, also (lean bank 1) with a vengeance and progressively every damn gas pump across the south and central USA pops every .60-.90 gallons like clock work.

So again I reach for the wallet:

Tank Fill tube (Rockauto)

Tank fill roll over valve (Rockauto)

Canister (OE this time from Rockauto)

Purge solenoid (front, OE/DENSO, Rockauto)

Purge Vent (rear, OE/DENSO, Rockauto)

All new OE molded hoses for the canister (a cool $148 from the Dealer)

Replaced all the vacuum and emissions hoses from the filler neck to the top of the tank.

All lines over vacuum sized, I used Gates Power grip heat-shrink clamps and teflex covering. Everything small got seriously zip tied, as I found 2 loose and one big line almost off.

Fresh canister drain hose from canister to tank

Also resistance checked the $200+ fuel tank pressure valve and the equally $200+ EGR Pressure Relief valve (above purge vent on bracket), and double checked the fuel pump stand gasket for any signs of leak/seep.

Lastly, undid the purge vent hard line up front and blew out the hard line from the back all the way out the front.

Essentially the entire EVAP system is new or refurb. 110%

Cleared codes, reset ECU.

DISCOVERY!!!!

1. I read that any charcoal canister should be virtually feather light, no substantial weight, mine was heavy enough to drop from the bracket with a thud to the concrete.

The Wells/Airtex canister had approx 1 cup/8oz of raw fuel poured out in liquid form. and probably another 1/2 cup was leaking before I saw it. I used to be a chronic overfill/topper-offer rounding up my fuel purchase to even $$ for my expense reports. for the last 4 years , when the system stops at 85% full, I stop. so I know for a fact I didn't overfill.and yet, after draining the raw fuel, the canister was still noticeably heavy compared to the new OE unit. hmmmm.. the plot thickens.


2. blowing the hard line clean resulted in charcoal from the canister was in the line, just a few pieces, but it was migrating, not a good sign.

3. the REALLY interesting find: the exit hose (hose going from purge solenoid to the intake, the nipple closest to the connector) was completely plugged with carbon and charcoal, over a thimble sized pile had made it through the solenoid and plugged up the vacuum line! luckily it didn't make it into the intake tract!

So I replaced all the vacuum lines under the hood, replaced the purge solenoid, etc. I am about to take the upper intake off anyway for TGV-Delete/injectors/pheonolic spacers etc. So my plan to drive it tomorrow, sidelined to check the intake to make sure no contamination.

Just thought I would update the thread.

I will report back mid week next week after its all back together.

Perfect excuse to take 5 days vacation and go Stage 3
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Old 10-05-2018, 08:57 PM   #110
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dreaded double post
~Rob

Last edited by TXwrxWagon; 10-07-2018 at 10:45 AM.
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:07 AM   #111
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Can someone tell me what items 1 and 2 are on this diagram?

Quote:
Originally Posted by methaddict View Post
I had ej207 JDM mod EVAP solenoid hoses connected wrong in the photo above. I had one hose connected to a nipple on the manifold under the throttle body and the other connected to another nipple on to the left of the EVAP solenoid on the manifold. I need to connect one to the pipe C going back to the firewall. Well I had removed the stock fuel lines long time ago and had one hose connected to this pipe C line so I know the others were fuel feed and return.

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Old 11-24-2018, 09:15 AM   #112
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Never mind, I figured it out.

For anyone else who was wondering:

(1) Pressure regulator
(2) Purge control solenoid valve
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Old 07-22-2019, 07:03 PM   #113
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Ok so Iím bringing up an old thread but I canít seem to find anything recent or view the pictures that were originally used for the EJ207 setup....Here is my current setup as you can see someone messed with this previously I have not done anything.







Are these hoses hooked up correctly? Before my tear down and upgrading (Doing 20g along with complete parallel fuel setup with fuel rail injectors TGV deletes and FPR) I was not throwing any codes at all for EVAP and I just want to make sure this is ok to run this way before I clean it up and get new hoses...So as you can see the upper port on the solenoid is going to the lower nipple on the intake manifold and the lower port on the solenoid is going to the upper nipple on the intake manifold and the hose hooked up to the lower nipple on the intake manifold has a reducer on it...is this reducer necessary or can I replace it with one size complete hose and get rid of the connecting piece?
And Lastly the hose with the bolt in it thatís the hose coming off of the fuel rail where does that normally go and is it ok to just ditch that and cap it at the firewall? Since Iím running all new lines or does that need to go somewhere specially?
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Old 07-23-2019, 02:34 AM   #114
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That's all wrong. The line that has the bolt is the breather that goes back to the tank/canister. You're missing the purge valve plus a line to the turbo inlet.
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Old 07-23-2019, 04:18 PM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post
That's all wrong. The line that has the bolt is the breather that goes back to the tank/canister. You're missing the purge valve plus a line to the turbo inlet.


Yes I know its wrong thatís why Iím trying to figure out the proper way to set it up but at the same time I want to set it up with the purge valve delete, which I believe and just need confirmation that one of the nipples on the intake manifold (the lower one) gets a vacuum cap and bypassed also the turbo inlet spot that received the hose from the purge valve is getting capped off now. I know one of the two ports on the solenoid goes to the intake manifold and the other back to the breather to the tank/canister just not sure which port goes to what.
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Old 07-23-2019, 05:23 PM   #116
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Old 07-24-2019, 12:51 PM   #117
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NutBucket View Post


Thank you I appreciate that
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Old 11-04-2019, 11:34 PM   #118
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So something like this?

- Connect one port on the solenoid to (A) the hardline coming from the gas tank (under the manifold)
- The other port (B) into the 90 degree nipple (closer to the throttle body in manifold)
- Plugs go into (C) and the inlet.


Alternatively, could you route the B port back into the inlet since it's fuel vapor? Then both nipples on the manifold would be plugged.
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