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Old 05-22-2019, 06:59 PM   #2126
Suba_Roo
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Quote:
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I just build a new A2W intercooler setup and it works pretty good, but water can climb up a bit too much after a few runs. I was at Seneca and I have seen 2 people (1 in SSM) puting ice in there reservoir and telling me it's legal. I check the rules, can't find if that's legit or not. Any opinion?

Why wouldn't it be legal? Would it be legal to swap the water after each run? Maybe a more interesting question would be, could you run some crazy antifreeze / dry ice combination?
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Old 05-22-2019, 07:38 PM   #2127
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15.10 C.2
Except for standard parts as defined in these rules, the external use while on course of liquids, ice, dry ice, refrigeration systems, vaporized compressed gases, etc. to reduce the temperature of the intake air charge is prohibited. Wrapping of intakes with liquid-soaked fabric is not permitted.

I guess the important part is "external use" and "while on course".
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Old 05-22-2019, 08:21 PM   #2128
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What does it say about using intercooler sprayers? I'd use them to spray the heat exchanger. Should help get you back to ambient.

Either that or you dump and swap water after each run...eesh

Is a Peltier device considered a "refrigeration system"?
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:25 PM   #2129
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What does it say about using intercooler sprayers? I'd use them to spray the heat exchanger. Should help get you back to ambient.

Either that or you dump and swap water after each run...eesh

Is a Peltier device considered a "refrigeration system"?
My understanding is that water spayer are ok if it's a factory setup like the STI. Adding a switch to auto spray based on boost for example would not be allowed.
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Old 05-22-2019, 09:42 PM   #2130
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Right. I'm saying spray it down between runs.

Couldn't you also argue a point with the factory included auto sprayers (spec c)?
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Old 05-23-2019, 07:59 AM   #2131
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Right. I'm saying spray it down between runs.

Couldn't you also argue a point with the factory included auto sprayers (spec c)?
Unless rules have change JDM stuff not allowed. I'd like to switch to a JDM bumper beam and remove the u-frame on my GD
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Old 05-23-2019, 10:07 PM   #2132
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Shoot, I lost my U brace in one of my moves. Guess my GD isn't even SM legal haha
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Old 05-28-2019, 09:44 PM   #2133
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Ice in a reservoir between runs is fine. Spraying using the OE USDM button during a run is fine, anything JDM isn’t. It’d be impossible to police all the options in other countries across all makers if it were

Also, the U brace is totally going away on the DD STi though because annoying.
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:05 PM   #2134
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Also, the U brace is totally going away on the DD STi though because annoying.
That thing is so annoying when you are working on the car, always in the way!
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Old 05-29-2019, 02:30 PM   #2135
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That thing is so annoying when you are working on the car, always in the way!
Yeah, I couldn't believe how big it was first time I went to pull the engine on the GD. The GC is so much easier. I get the safety factor of the brace for USDM stuff, but the car without the brace is still much safer than my current DD. And I can actually get to stuff without it there.
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Old 05-29-2019, 03:16 PM   #2136
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I still want to make my own brace...but that's way down on the list.
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Old 05-30-2019, 08:47 AM   #2137
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So I could build my own u-brace, make it smaller in front to facilitate work on the car, then ballast it to weight the same as the OEM part. Would it needs to connect both side in the front like stock unit or could I make 2 independent rails that connect all OEM points? Ballast could be placed almost in the middle of the car where the stock unit ends, shifting 20lbs way back on the car. Could be an interesting winter project
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Old 05-30-2019, 10:25 AM   #2138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoky View Post
So I could build my own u-brace, make it smaller in front to facilitate work on the car, then ballast it to weight the same as the OEM part. Would it needs to connect both side in the front like stock unit or could I make 2 independent rails that connect all OEM points? Ballast could be placed almost in the middle of the car where the stock unit ends, shifting 20lbs way back on the car. Could be an interesting winter project
That's not legal. Only the front subframe that holds the engine is allowed to be replaced with something that weighs as much or more. The u-brace is not allowed to be touched at all in SM. You can brace stuff in addition to the stock piece, but it has to be there.
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:03 PM   #2139
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Another one rules. What about louver on the hood? I'm pretty sure I've seen a few SM / SSM car with them. Hood modification is allowed. On the other hand there is a specific rules on Louver in the prepared section, but nothing in street, ST, SP and SM.
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Old 06-04-2019, 05:24 PM   #2140
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There is no limit on vent size with hoods in SM. No one has pushed it to the limit yet (a 1" strip all the way around with the rest open) to force a rule. Mine will have a fair bit of venting and I'm not worried.
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Old 08-12-2019, 10:15 PM   #2141
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Quick question, for those who have high caster and geometry correction with knuckles, how much camber are you running in front?

I have the wisefab and around 10 degrees of caster and looks like I'm eating the inside of the tire. I'm running 3.2 degrees of camber currently. On the hoosier it's not so bad, but on the RE71 I destroyed the inside of the tire in a few events only. I'll turn it down, but any pointer on how much would help save what's left on my RE71
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Old 08-13-2019, 08:32 AM   #2142
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Quick question, for those who have high caster and geometry correction with knuckles, how much camber are you running in front?

I have the wisefab and around 10 degrees of caster and looks like I'm eating the inside of the tire. I'm running 3.2 degrees of camber currently. On the hoosier it's not so bad, but on the RE71 I destroyed the inside of the tire in a few events only. I'll turn it down, but any pointer on how much would help save what's left on my RE71
How’s the toe?
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:21 AM   #2143
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How’s the toe?
It's at 0
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Old 08-13-2019, 09:47 AM   #2144
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10 degrees of caster is too much and I'm not sure how you did that without a lot of other modifications besides the uprights. Either way you want 7-8. Caster doesn't eat tires either, it's toe, and when you have negative camber it's the inside. Caster induces camber gain to an extent though.

I'm over 4 degrees in the front at 7 something degrees caster.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:05 AM   #2145
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Quote:
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10 degrees of caster is too much and I'm not sure how you did that without a lot of other modifications besides the uprights. Either way you want 7-8. Caster doesn't eat tires either, it's toe, and when you have negative camber it's the inside. Caster induces camber gain to an extent though.
I'm over 4 degrees in the front at 7 something degrees caster.
Tx for sharing the info.

If you add shims between the aluminum control arm and the metal part that goes in the rear bushing you can move the wheel fwd quite a lot. It's a bit like the "free caster mod" on steroid. Then you need to adjust the top plates as far back as possible (I have custom made top plate). On my setup I adjust camber at the knuckle with slots on the coilover bracket, so top plate position is mostly for caster and a bit camber.

My rear spherical bearing on front control arm are busted, so I put back to stock bushing for last event while I'm waiting to get the new one, might be related.

I'll double check toe this week and try new alignment for next event.

Last edited by smoky; 08-13-2019 at 11:19 AM.
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Old 08-13-2019, 11:59 AM   #2146
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Ok, so you have (or had) sphericals in the rear bushing housing on the front arms. That makes more sense.

I also made my own top hats, but honestly 7-8 degrees of caster (closer to 7 is good) is plenty.
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Old 08-13-2019, 02:00 PM   #2147
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Good to know, I'll test it out.

For bushing I was using the hardrace one but they only hold for about 20 events in the front (http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=1514) and 30 events in the back (http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=1477)
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Old 08-18-2019, 10:03 AM   #2148
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Quote:
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For bushing I was using the hardrace one but they only hold for about 20 events in the front (http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=1514) and 30 events in the back (http://www.hardrace.com/Product_detail.asp?id=1477)
I thought those were supposed to last a lot longer than that? How are they failing? What did you use for grease?
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Old 08-22-2019, 03:51 PM   #2149
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Interesting feedback on the hard race control arm sphericals. I've been on the ESM ones this year but only a few events so far though I don't think I'd recommend dealing with ESM to anyone. Coming from whiteline bushings to sphericals really woke up the front end.

Give Luke a buzz at full spectrum he's got a bunch of new bushings for our cars that he hasn't listed on the website yet. https://www.getmoregrip.com/
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Old 08-23-2019, 09:32 AM   #2150
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I thought those were supposed to last a lot longer than that? How are they failing? What did you use for grease?
The front bushing really went bad fast (small one), lots of play in it, wheel was moving quite a lot on both side. That one is not sealed.

The rear one did a bit better, it's also a lot bigger, it's just starting to be lose and not smooth. It's sealed and has grease in it already.
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