LT’s FA20 Engine Build

[bluewrx2018]

So I threw a rod on cylinder 2 recently commuting to work one morning. It’s a 2018 with approximately 11k miles with a moderate spirited driving history. Oil changes done every 2,500 miles with Motul 8100 X Clean.

Modified for nearly 8k miles with no issues. Mod list includes:

Perrin Intake
Perrin Motor Mounts
Perrin Header
MAP 3” J Pipe w/ HFC
MAP Exhaust w/ Muffler Deletes
Perrin Trans Mount
Cobb AP
Perrin Strut Tower Brace

Cruising to work doing 55MPH when all of a sudden I heard a loud tapping noise coming from my engine bay. No visible leaking of oil.
Had it towed to PRO COM Racing in Toms River New Jersey for inspection and confirmed diagnosis. A timing chain inspection initially was performed. Next a compression test which failed miserably. On not only cylinder 2 but cylinder 4. Upon opening up motor they found the culprit a thrown rod on cylinder #2.

Timeline for build is 3-4 weeks which includes break in period. Build will be capable to holding 500HP.
Engine build is as follows:

-New OEM FA20 Case Valves
-Manley Platinum Series 86mm Forged Pistons
-Manley H Tuff Connecting Rods
-ARP Rod Bolts
-King Rod / Main Bearings
-New OEM FA20 Crankshaft
-ProCom Proprietary Block Strengthening and Oiling System Modifications
-Motul 300v 5w40 Syn Oil
-ARP2000 Head Stud Kit
-OEM Engine Seal Kit
-OEM Oil Cooler
-OEM Oil Pump
-OEM Timing Chains
-OEM Guides / Tensioners
-OEM Water Pump
-OEM Thermostat
-AOS Separator
-Perrin Front Mount Intercooler
-Perrin Boost Controller
-NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs
-EGR Delete
-TGV Delete
-Big Oil Filter Kit

-Machined Cylinder Heads
Resurfaced, Valve Seal Replacement, Valve Lash Adjustment, Clean / Sonic Blast of Cylinder Heads

Upon completion of engine build there will be another compression test, 1k miles break in period and a full Mustang Dyno Tune.

ENGINE COST BREAKDOWN:

*Engine will have a full warranty*

There is no additional charge for any additional parts I wish to add on during the build. Such as a FMIC, TIP etc.

https://www.procomracing.com

* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by bluewrx2018

So I threw a rod on cylinder 2 recently commuting to work one morning. It’s a 2018 with approximately 11k miles with a moderate spirited driving history. Oil changes done every 2,500 miles with Motul 8100 X Clean.

Modified for nearly 8k miles with no issues. Mod list includes:

Perrin Intake
Perrin Motor Mounts
Perrin Header
MAP 3” J Pipe w/ HFC
MAP Exhaust w/ Muffler Deletes
Perrin Trans Mount
Cobb AP

Cruising to work doing 55MPH when all of a sudden I heard a loud tapping noise coming from my engine bay. No visible leaking of oil.
Had it towed to PRO COM Racing in Toms River New Jersey for inspection and confirmed diagnosis. A timing chain inspection initially was performed. Next a compression test which failed miserably. On not only cylinder 2 but cylinder 4. Upon opening up motor they found the culprit a thrown rod on cylinder #2.

Timeline for build is 3-4 weeks which includes break in period. Build will be capable to holding 500HP.
Engine build is as follows:

-New OEM FA20 Case Valves
-Manley Platinum Series 86mm Forged Pistons
-Manley H Tuff Connecting Rods
-ARP Rod Bolts
-King Rod / Main Bearings
-New OEM FA20 Crankshaft
-ProCom Proprietary Block Strengthening and Oiling System Modifications
-Motul 300v 5w40 Syn Oil
-ARP2000 Head Stud Kit
-OEM Engine Seal Kit
-OEM Oil Cooler
-OEM Oil Pump
-OEM Timing Chains
-OEM Guides / Tensioners
-OEM Water Pump
-OEM Thermostat
-AOS Separator
-Boost Controller
-NGK 1 Step Colder Plugs

-Machined Cylinder Heads
Resurfaced, Valve Seal Replacement, Valve Lash Adjustment, Clean / Sonic Blast of Cylinder Heads

Upon completion of engine build there will be another compression test, 1k miles break in period and a full Mustang Dyno Tune.

I will posts pics and updates as the build goes on. Thanks

[idiosyncrisia]

I'd say modified for 8k with no issues is wrong if the engine blew haha

That's going to be a pretty sweet build, but it sucks that you now just eclipsed STi pricing for your low mileage car.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by idiosyncrisia

I'd say modified for 8k with no issues is wrong if the engine blew haha

That's going to be a pretty sweet build, but it sucks that you now just eclipsed STi pricing for your low mileage car.

Yea totally. I sick to my stomach but excited at the same time.
When I initially threw the rod driving I said “That can’t be my car” sounded like a baseball card on a bicycle spoke flicking. Epic fail

[2018wrx_newbie]

Yikes, sorry to hear that man.

What tune were you running? And what did the shop quote you for the build?

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by 2018wrx_newbie

Yikes, sorry to hear that man.



What tune were you running? And what did the shop quote you for the build?

Thanks.
Cobb Stage 2+ OTS Map

Engine Tear Down 714.00
ProCom Racing Short Block 3,499.99
Engine Fit Up Package 1,849.99
Machine Cylinder Heads 525.00
Engine Assembly 1,968.75
Engine Removal / Install 880.00
Engine Break-In 399.99
Dyno Tune 600.00

[WRXnick16]

Sorry to hear about your loss. At least you'll have to worry about the block a bit less now. Just make sure that you have a quality tune for your parts.

You had a Cobb Stage 2+ OTS map with this mod list?

Originally Posted by bluewrx2018

Modified for nearly 8k miles with no issues. Mod list includes:

Perrin Intake
Perrin Header
MAP 3” J Pipe w/ HFC
Cobb AP w/ Stage 2+ OTS Map

I hate to be that guy, but that likely contributed to the failure. Cobb's OTS tunes are designed specific to their parts. The stage 2+ map requires the Cobb Big SF intake. It's not designed for the header either, but that probably made less of a difference than the intake and maf scaling.

We all make mistakes and learn from them.. that was just a very expensive $10k lesson. At least you're willing to admit it. Most people would make excuses, blame Subaru, and try to commit warranty fraud in hopes that Subaru would cover it.

[2018wrx_newbie]

Good luck with your build. Please post updates of your build, hopefully you have some interesting updates as it progresses. Will be following this thread.

[2018wrx_newbie]

Originally Posted by WRXnick16

We all make mistakes and learn from them.. that was just a very expensive $10k lesson. At least you're willing to admit it. Most people would make excuses, blame Subaru, and try to commit warranty fraud in hopes that Subaru would cover it.

This ^. Thanks for posting and sharing the experience so others can learn.

[Matrex15]

OTS map???Really? Were you trying to blow it up?

[GlarryHoodDIT]

Originally Posted by WRXnick16

We all make mistakes and learn from them.. that was just a very expensive $10k lesson. At least you're willing to admit it. Most people would make excuses, blame Subaru, and try to commit warranty fraud in hopes that Subaru would cover it.

This x200000. Pretty clear what led to failure: OTS map with the wrong mods. Did you happen to take any catalogs?

No blaming Cobb, no trying to blame a shop, no trying to pawn this off on Subaru to fix. Respect to OP for handling this like it should be.

[gn4rwhals]

That price breakdown isn't that bad considering, but you are gonna need a new clutch too.

[WRXnick16]

Since you're in New Jersey, maybe reach out to Prime Motoring for a quote to do a FA24DIT swap
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2907007

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by WRXnick16

Sorry to hear about your loss. At least you'll have to worry about the block a bit less now. Just make sure that you have a quality tune for your parts.

You had a Cobb Stage 2+ OTS map with this mod list?

I hate to be that guy, but that likely contributed to the failure. Cobb's OTS tunes are designed specific to their parts. The stage 2+ map requires the Cobb Big SF intake. It's not designed for the header either, but that probably made less of a difference than the intake and maf scaling.

We all make mistakes and learn from them.. that was just a very expensive $10k lesson. At least you're willing to admit it. Most people would make excuses, blame Subaru, and try to commit warranty fraud in hopes that Subaru would cover it.

I for sure made the mistake of thinking “it can happen to me”. As time went on mileage wise I felt more assured I was bullet proof. And for 8k miles I was. Had a lot of fun along the way lol

Appreciate the comment. At the end of the day there is no one to blame but myself.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by 2018wrx_newbie

Good luck with your build. Please post updates of your build, hopefully you have some interesting updates as it progresses. Will be following this thread.

Thanks.
I sure will post updates and pics along the way.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by 2018wrx_newbie

This ^. Thanks for posting and sharing the experience so others can learn.

No problem. Hopefully I can steering people from making the same mistake. And if they don’t hopefully they have a lot of money to fix it

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by Matrex15

OTS map???Really? Were you trying to blow it up?

Not at all. Ran it for so long like this it became normal for me. Didn’t even think about throwing a rod or spinning a bearing. Just turned the key and drove.

With all the information on this site I should have known better. You live and learn. And I certainly did.

My first Subaru too

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by GlarryHoodDIT

This x200000. Pretty clear what led to failure: OTS map with the wrong mods. Did you happen to take any catalogs?



No blaming Cobb, no trying to blame a shop, no trying to pawn this off on Subaru to fix. Respect to OP for handling this like it should be.

No data logs however starting getting enormous feedback knock and fine knock learning before my incident.

The racing shop stated the spark plugs were toasted. Compression test failed on multiple cylinders.

I’m thinking more of a detonation issue. Creating too much pressure in the crankcase. Leading to failure.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by gn4rwhals

That price breakdown isn't that bad considering, but you are gonna need a new clutch too.

Any suggestions on this?

[GlarryHoodDIT]

Originally Posted by bluewrx2018

No data logs however starting getting enormous feedback knock and fine knock learning before my incident.

The racing shop stated the spark plugs were toasted. Compression test failed on multiple cylinders.

I’m thinking more of a detonation issue. Creating too much pressure in the crankcase. Leading to failure.

Was the knock happening at WOT or cruise, or both? Did you notice any feeling of power loss before it finally gave out?

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by GlarryHoodDIT

Was the knock happening at WOT or cruise, or both? Did you notice any feeling of power loss before it finally gave out?

I was getting knock at both WOT and cruising speeds. Before it gave 12.xxx knock. No feeling of lost power. Lots of backfire from exhaust. My AFR were bouncing around cruising prior as well.

[GlarryHoodDIT]

Were you consistently monitoring during the entire time it was tuned? Like did these numbers just start to appear from looking otherwise healthy, or did you just start monitoring when you suspected an issue?

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by GlarryHoodDIT

Were you consistently monitoring during the entire time it was tuned? Like did these numbers just start to appear from looking otherwise healthy, or did you just start monitoring when you suspected an issue?

I always had my AP plugged in monitoring live data. Occasionally would get knock. But never that high. And my AFR would jump up from 14.7 ish while cruising to 17 ish. Which isn’t good. Under full throttle AFR were spot on. Only when cruising did I experience the AFR bouncing lean. My DAM was always 1.0. Temperatures for oil and coolant were spot on. Boost PSI was normal as well. No difficulty starting. No erratic idling.

[bluewrx2018]

Originally Posted by WRXnick16

Since you're in New Jersey, maybe reach out to Prime Motoring for a quote to do a FA24DIT swap

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho....php?t=2907007

Maybe next time around

[WRXnick16]

You won't need a new clutch with your low mileage and power levels. Obviously you'll need to look for an upgrade if you go with a larger turbo and start pushing higher power levels later on. It really just depends on your plans for the car and if you would rather replace it now while the engine is out or wait and pay the labor cost again down the road.