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Old 06-21-2019, 09:07 AM   #301
JarHarms
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Hmm...not very interesting.



Now...with more interesting.
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Last edited by JarHarms; 07-02-2019 at 10:50 AM.
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Old 07-25-2019, 03:28 PM   #302
JarHarms
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I have had jack squat time to work on the WRX, it is embarrassing. Well at least today I pulled the CF trunk lid off to speak to a body shop about painting. Does that count?
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Old 08-09-2019, 11:48 AM   #303
JarHarms
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Trunk lid is being painted SGM as we speak. Color match was done on the original trunk lid. I was told there are two variants of 26D SGM, not sure which variant they used yet. Hope to have that back on the car in the next week or so. So far so good, it looks like I finally found a paint shop that I can trust. Will likely follow up the trunk lid with some other paint work in satin black: roof panel, vent lid, rear spoiler, rear window spoiler, and maybe some others.

Meanwhile I have been working through the remaining tasks in order to target an initial start soon. Installed the modified fuel pump hanger. Now with the STI slosh box and Radium jet pump, going back in was a rubik's cube challenge that eventually worked out. Those eight hanger M5 nuts were pretty crusty so I eventually replaced with stainless. The OEM fuel cover gasket is open cell foam (really Subaru) which I will not reuse. I am pretty certain the use of this open cell foam with an unnecessary overhang ends up retaining moisture near the covers and causes premature rust. So I need to find some other material, like a closed cell foam or similar.


Tying up smaller tasks and making sure all are connected and tight. Built a short adapter harness from the OEM MAP to the AEM 3.5bar MAP. Seems to fit pretty well and was easy enough.




Ran the remaining hoses for the hybrid BCS. I had "just" enough hose left to get this done. I still loath the IWG actuator FP uses on this turbo. The dang nipple OD is much smaller than the rest of the hose I am using and most irritatingly it is clocked in a dumb position. Since the actuator can is welded to the bracket there is no way to re-clock...just awesome.




Lower DP section is installed, but dang it is pretty rigid. This will be okay for my initial start but it must be addressed before long term driving. A flex joint added just before the outlet flange should work. I have to relocate the rear mounting tab anyways and want to replace the slip joint with a Vband. Maybe over winter I will get those added. The rear O2 was connected after slightly adjusting the mid-harness and making room for the E% adapter harness up by the firewall.

Have been dealing with a frustrating "in-between revision" aftermarket fuel pump kit the last few days. Thankfully they provided the update parts but all this re-work has taken awhile longer than I hoped.


While reworking this kit I was looking ti over and thought "why the eff would one want to add unnecessary terminal connections?". So more time was spent to integrate the kit into the OEM FPC jumper harness like it should have been done firsthand.


There that ought to fix that oversight. I spent a bit more on this kit to save me time....should have just built my own kit after all. It was supposed to make things easier right?


There done. Running the wires through the car is my remaining part of this task.


Waiting on a CAI, filter, plugs, and some fuel hose to arrive. Thankfully have found a tuner that I feel good about. So I am stressed to get all of this done ASAP but also excited to start driving it again.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-27-2019 at 12:59 PM.
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Old 08-22-2019, 09:21 AM   #304
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Spark plugs swapped out then assembled some fuel hoses and I think they turned out great. Used 3/8" Gates barricade shield, oetiker clamps, push-on barb to -6AN fittings, Parker SAE fittings, braided covering, and some shrink tube. I did not want to commit to machine crimped 910 hoses at this time since I might have to revise these hoses later.


Worked though CAI sourcing issues far enough that I will have something to work with. It will need some re-work because I am not satisfied how it all fits inside the fender. This portion of the work is taking longer than I hoped. Needs a 22deg connector and a short joiner pipe. Figuring out a remote fuel psi pickup for the differential fuel psi sender. Once I have that mounted and plumbed I can finish the wiring harness up. Had to order an actual Sumitomo connector since the current connector will not engage the lock on the engine harness.

While I wait for parts to arrive I am looking at reintroducing the PCV valve removed when installing the Crawford AOS. I want a PCV back in the system since this engine will be ingesting E85 on a regular basis. So I need to reclaim the connection on top of the block. My plan is to reroute the 1/2" AOS drain hose over the 6MT clutch housing to the LHS, route down/forward to the engine, add fire shielding in critical spots, 8an barb to 10an fitting, 10an 45degEL to 1/2npt fitting, right into the KBM oil pan bung below oil level (no check needed). If the drain works out I can then pullout the EJ25 NA tee that Crawford used and replace with the Subaru PCV assembly and route back to the intake manifold plenum.

I disabled the overboost feature on the BPV. 1.5mm drill through outer wall and into MAP reference passage. If I was to redo this I would move about 2mm to the left.


5mm drill partway into MAP reference passage. While holding upright to avoid drilling material falling into the actuator section.


M6x1.0 threads tapped into MAP reference passage. While holding upright to avoid drilling material falling into the actuator section.


M6x1.0 stainless set screw L 5mm bottomed out into the end of the threads. Used high temp thread locker then mechanically deformed the threads to seal the port and avoid any backing out.


I do not see backing out an issue since it would run right into the IC flange and could not fall into the engine.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-15-2019 at 11:33 PM.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:07 AM   #305
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The fuel pump kit circuits are now routed up the front of the car and the routing is all cleaned up. Just needing to connect to battery and fuse panel to finish that task. Got some connector plugs to cap of the unused harness connections (TGV motors, 2nd air valve, 2nd air pump) instead of just wrapping with electrical tape.
I opened up that mounting hole to fit better over the battery tie.


Then a washer over the tie nut, installed this breaker, and another flange nut. Worked great and I also moved over some of the circuits I had jammed on the B+ terminal.


Some split sleeving and routing rearwards through the chassis.




Ending up over here. The WRX trunk trim liner still fits too. Also tested fitted an USDM I/C sprayer tank I had around. This will also work but will need the STI trunk trim liner to cover the tank.




But I do not plan to use the USDM I/C tank, I have a 12L tank instead. Just waiting on some spacers to mount away from the Oswald brace. Looks to me 3.75" to 4.0" spacers and longer M6x1.0 bolts. The tank rests on two bottom feet so most weight should be supported there. The seat standoffs just hold the tank upright and in place. *Yep, I ended up using 3.75" length spacers and it worked out great.*


Crimped some terminals. Added the WBO2 output signal into the E-content harness. E-content harness is now routed and installed. Just need to pinout the diff fuel psi harness and insert the terminals into the connector. WBO2 harness also re-routed a bit. All of the harnessing (WBO2, E%, Fuel, EOP, Boost, etc) runs along the firewall between the AC pipes so you would hardly know they were there.


Mounted the E-content module right on the sensor bracket. Differential fuel psi sensor is also mounted on the E-content sensor bracket. Riv-nuts were essential here. Positions worked out with the fuel hoses, electrical routing, and proximity to other parts in the engine bay. I temporarily installed an inline adapter with mech fuel psi gauge for elect sensor scaling and setting of base pressure. Will remove that gauge shortly afterwards.


PCV valve is reinstalled and fit really well considering all of the changes made in that area of the engine. Re-routed the Vcover breather hoses so they fit a nicer. Routed the 1/2" AOS drain hose over the 6MT and to the oil pan (about 4'). Fits pretty well but is close to the header. That should be solvable with some heat sleeve. The 10an strait and 10an 45el fittings will work out. I drained the oil pan and am drilling a small hole in the crossmember for some safety wire tie. Should be ready to finish that task up this week.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-15-2019 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 08-26-2019, 11:38 AM   #306
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Seat belts look great! Are those oem or redone by someone? I’ve been looking at sending mine off to seatbeltplanet.com this winter to get mine done in red also.
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Old 08-26-2019, 03:18 PM   #307
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fndragn View Post
Seat belts look great! Are those oem or redone by someone? Iíve been looking at sending mine off to seatbeltplanet.com this winter to get mine done in red also.
Seatbeltplanet did these with 7panel webbing in #27 ruby red. I suggest ordering a few of the webbing samples before choosing. That photo makes it look brighter than it installed. I opted for the darker red since that looked better with my interior.
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Old 08-26-2019, 05:16 PM   #308
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belts look killer!
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Old 08-26-2019, 06:02 PM   #309
Shik
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Sorry if I missed in on one of the previous pages, but why the cold air intake over the stock air box?

Everything is so thought-out on this build, I just kind of expected to see a stock air box. Don't ask me why.
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Old 08-26-2019, 09:01 PM   #310
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shik View Post
Sorry if I missed in on one of the previous pages, but why the cold air intake over the stock air box?

Everything is so thought-out on this build, I just kind of expected to see a stock air box. Don't ask me why.
You did not miss anything, I never really said why. My tuner advised that I would likely run out of range with the factory airbox. So I'm going this route for now since I'm in a hustle to get this started before winter comes.
However I would certainly rather a factory airbox, so possibly after sorting out the initial tune I can revisit if the factory box could work out. I'd rather change factory panel filters every month then mess with occational CAI filter cleanings. PITA.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:14 PM   #311
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Gotcha! Maxing out the stock MAF was what I was thinking. I looked back a few pages for a refresher and saw you have an FP Blue, so I can see your concern.

I've learned so much from this thread. Thank you for documenting everything.
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Old 08-26-2019, 10:59 PM   #312
JarHarms
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Personally I think an OEM airbox would be close with the FP Blue since I am not at altitude. I'm waiting on how the stock location G25 IWG systems work out to compare with stock location EFR IWG systems. I expect both of those directions will place me beyond a stock MAF diameter at that point.
Cool, I will try to keep with updates. I need to get to adding some photos though.

The backup plan intake...until I saw this utter embarrassment.


That is the way it should be so this is what I will be sort of going with now.




I have at least 2 local stations that pump E85. One tested 86% the other tested 92% in mid-August. I'm going to grab some of the E92 this week to keep for tuning. I will back fill the photos for these posts a bit later.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-29-2019 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 08-27-2019, 01:24 PM   #313
JarHarms
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There's some photos now. A few packages showing up today to possibly finish up some of these leftover tasks. Ordered some wire to run the I/C sprayer and Rdiff circuits while I have the routing area opened up.
PITA to figure out exactly where the I/C sprayer tubing routed from the factory. It is not clear in service manuals and all I can find are photos of DIY installs. I need the "actual" factory locations.
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Old 08-28-2019, 09:09 AM   #314
Shik
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I'm guessing you probably have this diagram. Doesn't show exactly where it's routed though as you mentioned: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-c...7/electric/878

If you are on FB, try asking " Subaru Impreza Spec C Parts " . He buys Spec C's and usually strips them down and sells the parts off. He may have a few stripped cars he could grab some good pics for you.
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Old 08-28-2019, 11:06 AM   #315
JarHarms
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Thanks
Yes I do have one of those diagrams I was working from. Those other ones you linked do help some, I see one of the IC sprayer hoses is on that diagram instead of the other diagram.

Using the grommet as my fixed point reference:
Front routing I think is pretty strait forward. I can tell from these diagrams and online photos that the hose w/ grommet passes from the drivers compartment towards the LHS (not forwards) and into the LHS fender cavity. From there it appears to run forwards (probably along with electrical harness) and into the engine bay via an inner fender pass-through. Another hose goes up and rearwards to the same area as the wiper fluid connection at the hood/cowl area. The on-hood hose contains the check valve and connects to the nozzle with an 90el. Nozzle is mounted in the forward duct partition so if it's a split duct then only the front (engine side) half of the TMIC is getting sprayed.

Rear mounting is the pain since I want to mimic the factory routing. I know it could be routed any way and still work just as well. But...well...that is not how I operate. So at whatever point the grommet hose ends is where the clear hose begins. This is likely right near my left foot. I can see from factory photos that the black joiner is near the 12L tank, so that means the white joiner goes in front. This hose routes along the fuel lines and conveniently has a snap-in location on those plastic brackets. A few separate clips are needed (where exactly I do not know) along the way. This hose must head over by the rear seat cushion and from there it goes up the wheel well. Not clear if it just get foam taped on the chassis or if it goes under the plastic trim. So from there the hose might go 2 ways [1) up into the parcel shelf or 2) through the strut tophat area] and then down to the center of the trunk. Here it attaches direct to the hose on 12L tank. Or it connects to another hose the routes to the RHS wheel well and down to the hose on the STI tank.

"Subaru Impreza Spec C Parts" Hmm I wonder if some 2006-2007 fenders with the side-marker holes would arrive safely over here?

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-10-2019 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 08-28-2019, 11:26 AM   #316
JarHarms
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Actually there are some promising photos posted on his FB page that might help out. Looks like the cabin/fender pass-through is further upwards than I was looking at.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-28-2019 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 08-29-2019, 01:40 PM   #317
JarHarms
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Sort of figured out the IC spray hose routing last night. I ended up altering from factory routing in the trunk area. Factory used some clips to hang the tube from the trunk ceiling (looked ehh). So I ran that section of hose within the boxed cross frame. Planning to map factory and modified routings out later, just need to find some good top-down photos to use.

Also finally got around to routing my backup camera wiring along the RHS to the back of the car then out to the license plate. Altered the license plate lamp harness instead of adding any new holes to the chassis. Subaru for some reason doubles up both the pwr and gnd wires to the plate lamps. I cut one of the gnd wires and removed from the grommet, this leaves an open pass through. The backup camera I am using has a super small wire that pulled right through. Then I took the removed gnd wire and pulled through along the other gnd. Reconnected the gnd wire and then reinstalled the grommet through the chassis. Perfect.

Had always been looking for a mating connector for the removed 2nd air pump. Could never locate a loose connector body. However I stumbled upon the 2008+ STI moved the location of the 2nd air pump from the LHS inner fender to on the engine. They used this convenient little jumper harness [24037aa200] which I found a used one, de-pinned, and sealed off the terminal ports. BETTER than the electrical tape I had wrapped around that open plug.

Last edited by JarHarms; 08-30-2019 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:16 PM   #318
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Cool Nice

This is sick keep it up
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Old 09-05-2019, 01:20 PM   #319
JarHarms
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Have been busting my bottom and getting pretty close to an engine start before summer finally fades away. Battling the annual horde of flies as they kamikaze attack me while working in the warmer garage. CAI is now installed after a tedious arrival and still having to make some modifications to make it fit the way it should. Was rewarded with a non-communicating ECU and no fuel pump prime issue. It was not what I would call encouraging but I got it handled. I loaded a pre-base map to handle the DTCs that resulted from some removed components. Smashed my index finger while installing the TMIC too. Wife wonders why again do I enjoy working on this thing...


Pulled the fog lights out and covered the LHS. Leaving RHS fog trim in place.



Just have to finish a few last items up while I wait for the actual base map to arrive. Tonight hoping to finish the extra ground harness, since why not. Need to add some heat shielding onto the plastic splash panel before it goes back on. Then I can get the cooling system settled, recheck base fuel pressure, look for leaks, get in a few heat cycles, sort out my datalog parameters, etc. Oh and I need my trunk lid back before I can drive this thing and get some bro-tuning done.


Ready for E85 life...


Stant 10834Y (Gates repackages as 31832Y) cap that was drilled to use with a 2002 Forester tether strap.

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-15-2019 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:34 PM   #320
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LOVE ❤️ the Build Bro! Our cars are going to be very similar when finished, besides the year. The ITMF Color is awesome as well.I spoke to the guys at Radium today as Brian the master Tech has became a friend. He was saying that to find out if the FPD need to be directly connected to boost. You take (Total FPR PSI w/o boost line attached at idle)+(Max PSI your turbo is going to run)= if the result is more than 70PSI than the FPD need to be connected to boost.

http://data.radiumauto.com/PublicDocs/19-0097G.PDF

Honestly that did not make 100% sense to me as WTF is the point of the FPD's if there not connected.

Also if your still looking for a FPR Bracket Try the ( ChaseBays ) One. I received one as a gift from them because of a very delayed order because a part was backordered. Might be what you're looking for.

https://www.chasebays.com/collection...ulator-bracket


Ill be sure to send you a link to my build when I publish it.

Here is a lil Mock-Up of FPR w/chasebays Bracket Location Thoughts "Of Corse Lower Mounted When Stock Hard Lines Removed". . . In the end I'm thinking Stock Location.



Last edited by Evoballer; 09-10-2019 at 12:04 AM. Reason: Add PIX
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Old 09-10-2019, 08:35 AM   #321
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoballer View Post
...He was saying that to find out if the FPD need to be directly connected to boost. You take (Total FPR PSI w/o boost line attached at idle)+(Max PSI your turbo is going to run)= if the result is more than 70PSI than the FPD need to be connected to boost.
Honestly that did not make 100% sense to me as WTF is the point of the FPD's if there not connected.
He is correct. Our cars are turbocharged so ignore the naturally aspirated points. Since we're turbocharged our regulators are 1:1 rising; meaning that as charge pressure (boost) increases the regulator will raise the fuel pressure the same amount. If your base fuel pressure is set to 43.5psi(g) static then you have 43.5 psi(g) when you are off boost. However at 24psi(g) of boost...you will have 43.5+24=67.5psi(g) of fuel pressure. Radium wants to you calculate fuel pressures so you choose which FPD has a range that fits your use. On our cars the hose will provide both vac and boost signals.
If the hose was not connected then these would operate like typical factory FPDs; providing dampening until the fuel pressure bottoms out the FPD spring/diaphram then zero dampening.

What FPDs did you go with the FPD-R or FPD-XR? Nevermind I see FPD-R in your other post now.
Are you planning to set static fuel pressure different than oem?
What is your peak boost target?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Evoballer View Post
Also if your still looking for a FPR Bracket Try the ( ChaseBays ) One. I received one as a gift from them because of a very delayed order because a part was backordered. Might be what you're looking for.
Ill be sure to send you a link to my build when I publish it.
Here is a lil Mock-Up of FPR w/chasebays Bracket Location Thoughts "Of Corse Lower Mounted When Stock Hard Lines Removed". . . In the end I'm thinking Stock Location.
https://i.imgur.com/eQOGzcH.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rMOB1Y7.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uIuTU0f.jpg
I ended up building my own bracket out of leftover material. Mine mounts in same location but different orientation. This orientation was sort of determined by the way I routed my fuel hoses in series.


Theirs is an interesting bracket concept, but $30 is a bit steep for a simple slotting L bracket with a name printed on it. I would be curious how it fits in there once you get the oem hardlines out. I will comment that this location in general makes for a PITA getting to the intake manifold/tgv bolts. Moving the regulator is required in this case.

Yes, please let me know the build link. Good luck on your project.
I would liek to know more about this mounting arrangement and how it works out. I like the tucked out of the way location. Are you using Radium's under chassis fuel hose brackets or are you connecting to the oem hardlines in the engine bay? I am guessing oem hardlines since the filter outlet is pointed rearwards...


Hmm...yellow CV boot clamp. Is that an oem Subaru axle?

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-10-2019 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 09-11-2019, 04:33 PM   #322
yamahaSHO
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Sub'd.
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Old 09-11-2019, 06:35 PM   #323
JarHarms
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It effing started and low idles... It is going to be a loud SOB though.
LOTS of checks to do.
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Old 09-13-2019, 03:49 AM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
He is correct. Our cars are turbocharged so ignore the naturally aspirated points. Since we're turbocharged our regulators are 1:1 rising; meaning that as charge pressure (boost) increases the regulator will raise the fuel pressure the same amount. If your base fuel pressure is set to 43.5psi(g) static then you have 43.5 psi(g) when you are off boost. However at 24psi(g) of boost...you will have 43.5+24=67.5psi(g) of fuel pressure. Radium wants to you calculate fuel pressures so you choose which FPD has a range that fits your use. On our cars the hose will provide both vac and boost signals.
If the hose was not connected then these would operate like typical factory FPDs; providing dampening until the fuel pressure bottoms out the FPD spring/diaphram then zero dampening.

What FPDs did you go with the FPD-R or FPD-XR? Nevermind I see FPD-R in your other post now.
Are you planning to set static fuel pressure different than oem?
What is your peak boost target?



I ended up building my own bracket out of leftover material. Mine mounts in same location but different orientation. This orientation was sort of determined by the way I routed my fuel hoses in series.


Theirs is an interesting bracket concept, but $30 is a bit steep for a simple slotting L bracket with a name printed on it. I would be curious how it fits in there once you get the oem hardlines out. I will comment that this location in general makes for a PITA getting to the intake manifold/tgv bolts. Moving the regulator is required in this case.

Yes, please let me know the build link. Good luck on your project.
I would liek to know more about this mounting arrangement and how it works out. I like the tucked out of the way location. Are you using Radium's under chassis fuel hose brackets or are you connecting to the oem hardlines in the engine bay? I am guessing oem hardlines since the filter outlet is pointed rearwards...I also installed a iWire Fuel Pump Controller.


Hmm...yellow CV boot clamp. Is that an oem Subaru axle?
-I See what your saying about the FPD's. I did not factor in the fact of being Turbo vs NA. I planing on running (46 pSi Fuel pressure at idle with Boost line detached.)(25 pSI Total Boost.) So obviously My FPD's Need to be hooked up. My plan is to Tee tap the BoV hoose for a connection to my FPR. Then use the stock FPR boost line coming off the manifold to connect the FPD's. This is what radium suggested.









<As for my Fuel Filter Im using the stock Fuel hard lines for now but I will be adding Radiums new AN fuel line Set up From the Pump. Im using the Radium FP Hanger But only a single AEM E85 340LPH FP and them COBBs 1050X Fuel Injectors. and the DElICIOUS Tunings FLEX-FUEL Kit. So, Running my Fuel Lines from the fire wall Fuel Feed Line with -8an to the Fuel filter -8an to the DELICIOUS Tuning E85 Sensor and then -6an to Fuel Line Routing in Series
(#3->#1->#4->#2)



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Old 09-13-2019, 03:49 AM   #325
Evoballer
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<As For My AXLES and the Yellow CV Boot Clamp. Thats What came stock on my 2018 STi Type-Ra.






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