The H6 Impreza Resource Thread

[Zabnorg]

Originally Posted by Kito818

Go for it! Keep us up to date, if you want to save some money and do your own wiring I can share the pinout for the two connectors on the back of the engine, though I encourage you to check it against your motor, since you wont have the AVLS(or is it the AVCS?) and that may change the pin outs in the plugs. Good luck, and I look forward to some nice pictures!

https://www.subaruoutback.org/thread...utback.517305/

see above link for gory details.

No AVC/LS on this lump, all mechanical with the alu intake.

I'd love to see pinouts for lolz but I'm going to leave this harness in better hands than mine for the electrical. I need my brainpower for other stuff. Also, iWire has a warranty on their work, so no headaches...

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[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Zabnorg

https://www.subaruoutback.org/thread...utback.517305/

see above link for gory details.

No AVC/LS on this lump, all mechanical with the alu intake.

I'd love to see pinouts for lolz but I'm going to leave this harness in better hands than mine for the electrical. I need my brainpower for other stuff. Also, iWire has a warranty on their work, so no headaches...

I just realized you're trying to swap the ECUs instead of going stand alone. Thats why you were talking about the auto AC feature. That confused me, for far longer than it should have lol. If thats the case my wiring list isn't going to do you any good anyway, as I would only have something short of half of what you need. Some questions though, is the bug eye drive-by-wire, or a cable driven throttle body?

[Zabnorg]

I need the car to pass emissions as this is my daily driver. It's the older EZ30D with cable throttle and cruise control, which matches the cable setup on the bugeye, although the routing and positioning of the cruise control actuator are different. I'd like the setup to be same as stock in terms of creature comforts, so I'd like to have working and AC and cruise when I'm done. I've pulled the whole clutch off of the donor car's AC compressor to see if they will swap but I haven't checked the fit yet. When I grab the motor from the junkyard I will have another compressor to play with.

[Zabnorg]

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

However, that doesn't address the issue addressed in the 2nd post I've linked above. Because of the shape of the EZ30's intake manifold, the A/C line has to come forward to clear; your stock Forester line probably doesn't do that. So even if you're able to fit your original compressor, you're most likely going to have to do something custom to fit the lines.

Note that my car has still never been completed, so I have no idea if the A/C works, but I don't see any reason why it won't when that time comes.

Dood, when u gonna get that thing on the road? From what I've read, it's spent the better part of the last decade sitting in yer garage!

[Kito818]

It's time for the 6spd! Finally got the STI differential front companion flange to install on the differential so that the stock STI driveshaft can be used without having to use a hybrid U-joint. So it's FINALLY time for this 6spd to be installed, after a year of driving on the engine swap.

[Patrick Olsen]

Originally Posted by Zabnorg

Dood, when u gonna get that thing on the road? From what I've read, it's spent the better part of the last decade sitting in yer garage!

Some day. Hopefully in the coming months, but I've said that many times over the past few years.

[Kito818]

6spd is in and working, bleeding the clutch system was backwards, but I'm now running a complete 05 JDM Legacy spec.b drivetrain, minus the driveshaft from a 14 STI.

[Zabnorg]

Originally Posted by S2 13BT

Yeah, seems like a headache. Looking at specs and wiring diagrams (remembering I don't know what I'm talking about), it looks like there are similarities, but it's certainly different. The operating pressures are different, but maybe swapping the 3 way pressure switch would take care of that. Or maybe changing the auto A/C out for manual A/C would be a way to get past some of the differences.

And obviously going to a standalone and removing the factory ECU removes part of the system too. I guess the standalone can easily send an A/C request and idle up, but will the rest of the smarts play along?

I just don't know!

I'm working on getting an EZ30 into a 2003 Impreza bugeye and have pulled AC bits off of 2.5 and 3.0 Outbacks for comparison. Still working on this, but I think at this point the AC compressor clutches will swap over, facilitating the use of a manual system compressor with the 6 rib serpentine belt used by the EZ30:




Here is a pic of the 2.5 AC compressor sitting on the 3.0 AC bracket (fits perfectly) on top of the EZ30 and everything lines up:


plumbing is the same for 2.5 and 3.0 Outbacks, with the 2.5 Outback limited I found having a dryer with a 2 pin switch, while the LL Bean 3.0 Outback has a 3 pin switch:


Not sure what the difference is except to note that the Limited Outback has manual AC as opposed to the Bean's auto AC system.

I'm not sure if there is an AC dryer on the Impreza, but it certainly is not in the same location, and the AC plumbing thru the firewall is different than on the Legacy Outbacks:

^Outback Limited

^Impreza (no dryer)

^Impreza again, note that AC lines don't go into firewall in the same location as Legacy Outbacks. Also, the heater core inlet and outlet are to the driver's side of the dogbone mount, vs. either side on the Outbacks.

It's a work in progress but I figured I'd post in case anyone can benefit or has other ideas...

Cheers,
Dave

[Patrick Olsen]

Originally Posted by Zabnorg

Edit: Oh fabulous, what a bleeping pain it is to post pics to this forum, none of my Google drive links worked. Tech support!

I've never seen Google Drive links work for images on any forum. I don't even know if Google Drive supports 3rd party linking; if you search for "how to post google drive photos on a forum" you'll find tons of discussion about it from various forums, but most of the links are years old and the methods suggested no longer work.

Anyway, there's free image hosting here on NASIOC. https://img.nasioc.com/

[Zabnorg]

Okay, thanks Patrick, fixed it now. If you want AC, looks like you can just nab a 2001-2004 2.5L Impreza/Outback compressor and it will mount directly to the H6, you just need an H6 compressor bracket and compressor clutch. Then just wait for me to figure out the rest It's not like you're likely to finish your swap before me anyway, considering your track record...

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Zabnorg

Okay, thanks Patrick, fixed it now. If you want AC, looks like you can just nab a 2001-2004 2.5L Impreza/Outback compressor and it will mount directly to the H6, you just need an H6 compressor bracket and compressor clutch. Then just wait for me to figure out the rest It's not like you're likely to finish your swap before me anyway, considering your track record...

What year Impreza are you going into?

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen

I've never seen Google Drive links work for images on any forum. I don't even know if Google Drive supports 3rd party linking; if you search for "how to post google drive photos on a forum" you'll find tons of discussion about it from various forums, but most of the links are years old and the methods suggested no longer work.

Anyway, there's free image hosting here on NASIOC. https://img.nasioc.com/

Img.nasioc is the best idea, but to answer your question about google drive linking, yes it works. If you go into the sharing options you can select an option for "anyone with link can view"(or something along those lines. Google photos allows you to select individual photos or groups of photos that are also viewable with a provided link that functions the same way. Again img.nasioc is the better way since it allows the image to actually appear in the post, it really just depends how you want the images to be presented, but google does support open link sharing.

[vicious_fishes]

Originally Posted by Zabnorg

I'm working on getting an EZ30 into a 2003 Impreza bugeye and have pulled AC bits off of 2.5 and 3.0 Outbacks for comparison. Still working on this, but I think at this point the AC compressor clutches will swap over, facilitating the use of a manual system compressor with the 6 rib serpentine belt used by the EZ30:




Here is a pic of the 2.5 AC compressor sitting on the 3.0 AC bracket (fits perfectly) on top of the EZ30 and everything lines up:


plumbing is the same for 2.5 and 3.0 Outbacks, with the 2.5 Outback limited I found having a dryer with a 2 pin switch, while the LL Bean 3.0 Outback has a 3 pin switch:


Not sure what the difference is except to note that the Limited Outback has manual AC as opposed to the Bean's auto AC system.

I'm not sure if there is an AC dryer on the Impreza, but it certainly is not in the same location, and the AC plumbing thru the firewall is different than on the Legacy Outbacks:

^Outback Limited

^Impreza (no dryer)

^Impreza again, note that AC lines don't go into firewall in the same location as Legacy Outbacks. Also, the heater core inlet and outlet are to the driver's side of the dogbone mount, vs. either side on the Outbacks.

It's a work in progress but I figured I'd post in case anyone can benefit or has other ideas...

Cheers,
Dave

you'll be able to get the lines connected no probs if you go to a wrecker - the most i had to do was take the pump specific and mate it to the recipient-firewall-specific with an an-10 fitting.

i'm very curious to see if you can get the clutch swaps to work though. i got mine to work with a hotwire but that was as far as i got.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by vicious_fishes

you'll be able to get the lines connected no probs if you go to a wrecker - the most i had to do was take the pump specific and mate it to the recipient-firewall-specific with an an-10 fitting.

i'm very curious to see if you can get the clutch swaps to work though. i got mine to work with a hotwire but that was as far as i got.

I guess I got really lucky, I was able to just order the A/C lines from an 05 Legacy since the low went to the same location on the firewall and the high went fit the port on my condenser. I will say I had to wobble out the hole for the low pressure line becuase the bolt location is just slightly off. That done I just used the A/C compressor that came with my EZ30.

[vicious_fishes]

have you got the a/c working though?

i got the mechanical side working no problem but could only ever hotwire the electrical side, i.e never got it functional from the cabin.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by vicious_fishes

have you got the a/c working though?

i got the mechanical side working no problem but could only ever hotwire the electrical side, i.e never got it functional from the cabin.

I snagged the A/C request line going to the factory EJ ECU, and the output line from the ECU to the relay. The connecter that went to the EJ compressor was a one wire(12+) and the compressor self grounded, so I took that one wire and put it to one of the pins on the EZ30 compressor (doesn't seem to matter which since it's a simple circuit), then ran the other wire to a ground. I'm running a Haltech not an EZ30 ECU, and on an 09 base model Impreza, so I'm not sure how much thats going to help you.

EDIT: My motor came from a JDM Legacy spec.b, and I'm not sure if that has an auto climate control or a manual.

[marauder3058]

Im having issues with my WRX, maybe I should swipe the EZ36 from the womans Tribeca and stuff it in.

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by marauder3058

Im having issues with my WRX, maybe I should swipe the EZ36 from the womans Tribeca and stuff it in.

It bolts right in. EMS will need to be changed, but it bolts to the trans, just swap your flywheel/torque converter. You'll need a new radiator, new radiator fans, couple hours of some rewiring and you'll be good to go.

While it does bolt right in, if you are going to do this put aside at least a week and spend plenty of time planning and prepping for this swap before you get started. MCM used the 3.6, but since the block is the exact same size and the stroke length is the same that extra displacement came from thinner sleeves so be careful if you're planning for power. That said I'm running the 3.0 N/A with no engine work and it is a blast to drive! There are plenty of people here who are in various stages of swaps or have already completed them, so if you're serious about it, you've come to the right place for information.

[Zabnorg]

I asked Brian at iWire about how best to keep the manual AC for my H6 swap:

[iWire]
I'm not quite sure what's going on with the compressor situation. Maybe the thing to keep in mind is the compressor does not dictate the AC control type (auto vs. manual), it's purely an output based on a request from whichever control type you are using. So whichever compressor is easier to get bolted in and hooked up mechanically would be the one you use. With the merge we would not change the control type so if we are putting the H6 engine/ECU into the Impreza, nothing changes from an AC perspective. It's purely a matter of getting the compressor mechanically hooked up with your new engine. It will receive a trigger to turn on at the request of the car just as it did before.

[Zabnorg]
I'm concerned that there may be other AC differences like low/high side pressures. The Impreza doesn't seem to have a receiver/dryer like the Outbacks, and has a two pin switch compared to the three pin on the H6 receiver/dryer (H4 Outback is also two pin switch). Do you know anything about the AC systems on these cars, or is your expertise in the wiring mostly?

[iWire]
The Impreza has the dryer, it's just attached to the condenser in the front. We've messed with plenty of AC systems from a wiring standpoint and I can assure you that although there are subtle changes we will address them with the harness so don't overthink it. If you can get the Impreza compressor on the H6 and hook up the lines, it'll be fine.

Thanks,
Brian

So it sounds like I can just run the H6 compressor and everything will be hunky-dory. We shall see...

[Rick2020]

Hi

I’ve done a manual conversion on my gen 3 legacy Lancaster. My problem is the neutral position sensor. Apparently it B134 pin 8 on the harness but when I log the switch on Romraider there’s no change

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Rick2020

Hi

I’ve done a manual conversion on my gen 3 legacy Lancaster. My problem is the neutral position sensor. Apparently it B134 pin 8 on the harness but when I log the switch on Romraider there’s no change

I know this is an issue for people with US H6s going to manual, but having not delt with it myself, I'm not sure what to tell you. Is it not something simple you can run to ground or short out another way? Sorry if this seems ignorant, but being aware of an issue and informed on the issue is different and I'm only aware of it. Though I know this has been a discussion topic for quite a few people with US vehicles that shipped with H6s installed.

[Rick2020]

It’s something I’m looking into

[Rick2020]

I’ve had my Ez30d manual conversion running since October 2019 .

Everything is sweet except my neutral position sensor. I may have this rigged up wrong I have power from ecu to switch on the box and other side of switch is earthed


When I log this through romraider nothing happens. I should be getting 0 or 1 but I get nothing

Any thoughts

[Kito818]

Originally Posted by Rick2020

I’ve had my Ez30d manual conversion running since October 2019 .

Everything is sweet except my neutral position sensor. I may have this rigged up wrong I have power from ecu to switch on the box and other side of switch is earthed


When I log this through romraider nothing happens. I should be getting 0 or 1 but I get nothing

Any thoughts

I just picked up an 09 Outback and will be running into this issue in the future, please keep me informed if possible, but additionally I'd like to look at this more in detail if you're up for a few PMs or email.

[Kito818]

If anyone is running an H6 on a US factory ECU with a manual transmission, and still has their TCM lying around, if you could PM me I'd appreciate it. I have a theory I'd like to test that may clear the CEL for the neutral position sensor. You'll need a 5 pin relay and some experience playing with wiring.