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Old 05-21-2020, 09:55 PM   #1
Kuntzy_
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Default 2004 STI no crank no start every now and then. Please help :(

TLDR: purchased car and it needed some work. It has a freshly (2k miles ago) built motor/transmission refreshed(? //fixed)/fuel rails,pump,injectors/replaced the starter/battery. I turn the key and I hear the starter click but no start. I made a clutch jumper wire, so I donít need to depress the clutch to start the car(I thought the clutch wasnít grounding out )




Also I get a misfire in cylinder 3 almost every time I get gas(91 @ chevron/shell/76 only. per shop who built my car request) not sure if this is related at all.

Iím at a loss on what to do now. I plan on calling the shop tomorrow but also want the internets thoughts on this as well.
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Old 05-22-2020, 12:57 AM   #2
Pakin
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You replaced the starter with a new one? OEM or something aftermarket?

A click from the starter itself (not a relay or something inside interior) could mean a solenoid/plunger contact issues. It may unstick after a few key turns or if you can get someone to tap it with a hammer + extension to dislodge while you have the key turned to START.

Make sure the connections are good and tight on the positive terminal and spade (no corrosion) and ground bolt eyelet (top bolt) on starter unit, same with the battery terminals and ground.

If you still have the old one, swap it at worst case.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:27 AM   #3
Kuntzy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pakin View Post
You replaced the starter with a new one? OEM or something aftermarket?

A click from the starter itself (not a relay or something inside interior) could mean a solenoid/plunger contact issues. It may unstick after a few key turns or if you can get someone to tap it with a hammer + extension to dislodge while you have the key turned to START.

Make sure the connections are good and tight on the positive terminal and spade (no corrosion) and ground bolt eyelet (top bolt) on starter unit, same with the battery terminals and ground.

If you still have the old one, swap it at worst case.


I replaced it with a duralast remanufactured starter. I donít have the old one, I sent it in for the code charge.
I have replaced the spade connector on the starter Solenoid and the ground and power cable looked good but Iíll check it again this weekend.
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Old 05-22-2020, 10:44 AM   #4
Samurai Jack
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Remanufactured starters / alternators / etc. are not very good and don't last very long. Typically these are rebuilt cheaply. Bad rebuilds are a constant issue.

Now, could be something else but very well could be the starter. That's why I purchased a Denso when I replaced my OEM starter.

As for the Cyl #3 misfire, could be a lot of things but I'd start with checking the plug, igniter and igniter connector. Something could be bad or loose.

You can swap the plug w/another cylinder and see if the issue stays with Cyl #3 or moves to the swapped Cyl. If that happens, it is a bad plug.

If it doesn't move, then swap the igniter. If it moves, bad igniter.

It's a slow process but in the end can save you a lot of headache & cash from buying replacements you don't actually ned.
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Old 05-22-2020, 06:09 PM   #5
Pakin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntzy_ View Post
I replaced it with a duralast remanufactured starter. I donít have the old one, I sent it in for the code charge.
I have replaced the spade connector on the starter Solenoid and the ground and power cable looked good but Iíll check it again this weekend.
I've had the generic autoparts starters/alternators go bad immediately before, especially most recently. I don't know if they are just putting in bad parts when they rebuild them or something.
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Old 05-23-2020, 01:01 AM   #6
Kuntzy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pakin View Post
I've had the generic autoparts starters/alternators go bad immediately before, especially most recently. I don't know if they are just putting in bad parts when they rebuild them or something.


This starter has less than 200 miles on it, do they go bad that quickly? Is there a way I can test this starter before I buy another?
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Old 05-23-2020, 03:50 AM   #7
Pakin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kuntzy_ View Post
This starter has less than 200 miles on it, do they go bad that quickly? Is there a way I can test this starter before I buy another?
You can test by taking it out of the car and supplying power directly via battery, with something like jumper cables (it'll be sparky). Negative to the casing/flange of starter body, positive to the terminal. Additional positive (or try to contact both to the positive clamp) to the spade and you should see it starter pop the gear forward and spin. If it doesn't do it, then your starter is no bueno.

Also, some auto parts places or shops can test it for you if you're uncomfortable with the procedure.

They can be dead out of the box or after a few miles. I replaced an alternator 3x times in less than a month from NAPA before I gave up and bought an OEM.

I used to not have an issue with them, but within the last 2 years, store-brand reman units have been problematic. Starting/charging units to need to be reliable or it'll leave you hanging.

Your Duralast should have a warranty, you can also just keep swapping starters until you get a good one if you want.
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Old 05-23-2020, 07:39 AM   #8
Jp925
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Iíd start with the following:

With a Volt meter - Check battery power, disconnected, then when cranking and when sitting while connected.
Check connection to the starter, when idle and when cranking

Have you tried a bump start? This to me sounds like an electrical gremlin of maybe a ground strap or low voltage that isnít super consistent.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:41 PM   #9
Kuntzy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pakin View Post
You can test by taking it out of the car and supplying power directly via battery, with something like jumper cables (it'll be sparky). Negative to the casing/flange of starter body, positive to the terminal. Additional positive (or try to contact both to the positive clamp) to the spade and you should see it starter pop the gear forward and spin. If it doesn't do it, then your starter is no bueno.



Also, some auto parts places or shops can test it for you if you're uncomfortable with the procedure.



They can be dead out of the box or after a few miles. I replaced an alternator 3x times in less than a month from NAPA before I gave up and bought an OEM.



I used to not have an issue with them, but within the last 2 years, store-brand reman units have been problematic. Starting/charging units to need to be reliable or it'll leave you hanging.



Your Duralast should have a warranty, you can also just keep swapping starters until you get a good one if you want.


Thanks I will give this a try this weekend and will try to swap it for a new one till I find a good one.
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Old 05-23-2020, 11:44 PM   #10
Kuntzy_
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jp925 View Post
Iíd start with the following:



With a Volt meter - Check battery power, disconnected, then when cranking and when sitting while connected.

Check connection to the starter, when idle and when cranking



Have you tried a bump start? This to me sounds like an electrical gremlin of maybe a ground strap or low voltage that isnít super consistent.


I will try this as well this weekend.
And usually the bump start method is the only way I know how to fix it at this point, itís annoying especially if Iím alone.

Iím finding out this car has multiple gremlins living in it. Do you know the locations of all the main grounds on Subarus?
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Old 06-13-2020, 11:52 AM   #11
BLAKNDN
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Default Clutch safety switch

My 2002 WRX does this, my troubleshooting went through holding the key all the way forward in the start position and moving the clutch in and out. There is a point that you will hear the click on the way down. If your Clutch Safety Switch is worn or dirty it will not send a proper signal to the starter. You can either hold the key forward and very slowly move the clutch pedal down to get it to start, if it doesn't on the first try back the pedal out and move it down slowly again still holding the key in the start position or just pump the pedal quickly in and out. This will give you a crank position sensor circuit CEL you will need to reset.

To fix it either take the switch out, dismantle it and clean it, which I do once or twice a year, or just get a new one taking note of the position of the adjustment nuts. It's a pain in the neck to find a good position to even look at the switch let alone hold the position long enough to take it out and put it back in. The switch is at the top of the clutch pedal.
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Old 06-13-2020, 02:34 PM   #12
the_saintusa
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It was a bad connection under the fuse box in the engine bay that was my culprit.
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Old 06-13-2020, 04:40 PM   #13
2010bluesti
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I had a rebuilt starter went bad in less than 1 week.
I tested by taking it out and connect directly to battery to test. In my case, the starter did spint but the solenoid didn't work (the gear didn't move up). I replaced with another rebuilt unit (warranty) and it has not failed since then. it seems rebuilt components are miss or hit
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Old 06-14-2020, 06:51 PM   #14
danger1138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2010bluesti View Post
I had a rebuilt starter went bad in less than 1 week.
I tested by taking it out and connect directly to battery to test. In my case, the starter did spint but the solenoid didn't work (the gear didn't move up). I replaced with another rebuilt unit (warranty) and it has not failed since then. it seems rebuilt components are miss or hit
True about auto parts store rebuilt parts. Just purchased a reman. pepboys alternator, against the common consensus around here and its worked great so far, 1 week in.
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Old 06-15-2020, 07:55 AM   #15
Bru1212
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I didnít want to start a new thread but if the op wants I will.
Took my car in for a detail without any problems at all now I have a no crank no start issue, had to get it towed home. Shop owner (old man) said he was fumbling around with the key fob and alarm started going off and the fob battery died( was old).
I changed the car battery, ordered a new starter, may order a clutch safety switch.
Can the factory alarm kill the car? Any other thoughts?
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