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Old 09-27-2021, 09:30 PM   #1
Ramon02
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Default Need assistance with my no start.

Hello everyone! I’ve been using everyone’s advise for many months now it’s been insanely helpful, I’m nearly done with my 02 wrx. I have searched and tried most things on common issues I can find on these threads. I had the ej205 USDM rebuilt, they included bigger sti injectors, to match the 18g turbo they rebuilt, I have not installed my bigger fuel pump yet, and I haven’t been in boost yet. I have a stock ecu. I installed the engine and all was well for about 3 miles of the break in process. It threw po340, and I promptly replaced it with a new camshaft sensor the shop gave me. All was great for about 6 miles, then it stalled pulling into my driveway. It threw a po335. I took the crank sensor out and tested it for ohmes and continuity at the plug. Plugged it back in and hasn’t thrown the code yet.
Now it will not start, but it cranks, and I know it’s priming fuel. It’s not throwing codes currently I tried to crank it 5 times for about 4 seconds, fuel was replaced today, and I fueled it up last week after I drained the tank and used to pump to get just a little extra out, fuel filter was chanced, I have replaced the MAS, check my alternator, cleaned battery terminals, and have a new battery, tested and cleaned all the grounds minus the bottom of the transmission ground. I’m curious about my ignition coils and plugs (both of which I will check tomorrow) I’m not certain which direction to go and I’m no mechanic, and don’t know much about these beautiful Bugeyes but I am certainly handy, and I’m motivated. My next option would be dropping the car off to the shop that built my engine and letting them scratch their heads/ do something that I’m missing. Any help would be amazing. Thanks in advance! Ramon the newbie out!
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:34 PM   #2
AliBenn
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Old 09-27-2021, 09:43 PM   #3
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
Thank you, I’ll look into the signal plate, must have missed that in my searching. I can replace the sensor first and if it doesn’t help then the starter as well. Appreciate you.
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Old 09-28-2021, 08:06 AM   #4
Elbert Bass
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Just to be sure, since I have seen this a few times - check the two multipin engine plugs behind the battery - I have see the brown one be really difficult to engage and LOCK. That will cause a no-code no start
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Old 09-28-2021, 02:16 PM   #5
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elbert Bass View Post
Just to be sure, since I have seen this a few times - check the two multipin engine plugs behind the battery - I have see the brown one be really difficult to engage and LOCK. That will cause a no-code no start
Checking now, I think every time I open the hood I’ve checked every plug I can reach. Haha

Edit: I checked both connections and they were clicked in and tight, unplugged them both and heard them click into place. Same outcome. Thanks for the advice.

Last edited by Ramon02; 09-28-2021 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 09-28-2021, 07:10 PM   #6
AliBenn
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I think EBass on to something
Do this
Follow the brown/gray thick pigtails to the bottom of fuse box
Behind battery
U will need to flip the fuse box(easy)
Check connections there

My alternator was not charging despite new one installed
I found an alternator plug that came loose
Found the pigtail and clicked it in fuse box
Problem solved
Let us know
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Old 09-28-2021, 09:59 PM   #7
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
I think EBass on to something
Do this
Follow the brown/gray thick pigtails to the bottom of fuse box
Behind battery
U will need to flip the fuse box(easy)
Check connections there

My alternator was not charging despite new one installed
I found an alternator plug that came loose
Found the pigtail and clicked it in fuse box
Problem solved
Let us know

This is why y’all are awesome! I wouldn’t have thought of this at all, because I haven’t check out the fuse box bottom. Thanks a ton, either way I’d like to get in there and clean up/ double check anything I can.

Edit: I looked at my parts 02 wrx and figured out how to take the covers off the relay fuse panel (the covers on the bottom that hide the connectors) in the engine bay, and noticed that the big grey and brown connectors go through the fender wall and I’m assuming into the back of the fuse panel under the dash? I’ll inspect both when I have more time and better lighting Thursday. Thanks again, y’all rock!

Last edited by Ramon02; 09-28-2021 at 10:20 PM.
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Old 10-01-2021, 07:26 PM   #8
Ramon02
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Default Update

So I replaced both crank and cam sensors. No change still no start. I also checked all connection in the relay fuse box in the engine bay. None were loose but I unplugged and inspected them and made sure they were in tight. I’m under the dash right now and I’m curious if anyone knows what these four connectors are for (they were not plugged in prior, and the car ran fine) mainly just curious.
Edit: more digging on here and I found my answer about the plugs.

Last edited by Ramon02; 10-02-2021 at 05:40 AM.
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Old 10-02-2021, 08:04 PM   #9
Ramon02
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Default Still lost

I have fuel pressure, good coils, proper plugs, checked both today, checked all cables on the car and fuses. Battery is still good, buddy told me maybe ecu. Do they just crap out? Lol I need to check my cam sprocket, other than that I’m lost. Appreciate any guidance. Might just have to pay for a tow and have it taken in. Sucks, I just want to drive the dern thang. Haha
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:22 PM   #10
sebastian323
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramon02 View Post
I have fuel pressure, good coils, proper plugs, checked both today, checked all cables on the car and fuses. Battery is still good, buddy told me maybe ecu. Do they just crap out? Lol I need to check my cam sprocket, other than that I'm lost. Appreciate any guidance. Might just have to pay for a tow and have it taken in. Sucks, I just want to drive the dern thang. Haha
check if an obd2 device can connect to ECU. can you feel the thumping feeling of good compression as the engine turns over ? Make sure your ECU ground and other grounds are connected up well on your intake manifold. Check the connections on the MAF and MAP sensor. Make sure the fuel lines are not connected backward (that was my last no start after an engine swap). can you clearly hear the fuel pump priming and the fuel pump relay behind the glove box clicking ?
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:25 PM   #11
Ramon02
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Default If anyone is following along

While checking spark and testing coils I entered test mode, throwing codes PO113, PO102. I still have the air box out and the MAS unplugged (reasons for the codes) I’m thinking it has to be something mechanical, fuel filter is new, maybe a clogged injector? I guess I’ll check all my injector connections next.
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:28 PM   #12
Ramon02
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Double post sorry
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Old 10-02-2021, 11:30 PM   #13
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian323 View Post
check if an obd2 device can connect to ECU. can you feel the thumping feeling of good compression as the engine turns over ? Make sure your ECU ground and other grounds are connected up well on your intake manifold. Check the connections on the MAF and MAP sensor. Make sure the fuel lines are not connected backward (that was my last no start after an engine swap)
Hello friend. I just replaced both sensors, and tested the connectors and basically double checked all the connections, cleaned down to bare metal and regrounded grounds. I haven’t checked cam sprocket to see if she lost a tooth yet. I have a cheap obd2 reader but I’ll give it a shot.
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Old 10-03-2021, 01:18 AM   #14
AliBenn
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Crap. Sorry man

Those p0113/p0102 codes are popping bc realitve pigtails not plugged in

Before u take to a shop
Check to see if you have the 3 things needed for a engine to run
1)Spark-disconnect one coil pack with spark plug still connected
Had buddy turn key see if you have spark
2)Fuel-crank engine few times, the pull a plug
Smell fuel? Then you are good there
3)Compression-buckle down buy a harbor freight tester kit and test
(If car ran briefly, this is not the issue)

T-Belt just does not skip a tooth out of the blue
But
With the sensor issues, and replacement of them, and no success
Possible that T-belt tensioner/pulley throwing off timing = no start

Let us know
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Old 10-03-2021, 01:18 AM   #15
AliBenn
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1998 /2005 STunIcorn
Acadia Green USDM 22b

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Crap. Sorry man

Those p0113/p0102 codes are popping bc realitve pigtails not plugged in

Before u take to a shop
Check to see if you have the 3 things needed for a engine to run
1)Spark-disconnect one coil pack with spark plug still connected
Had buddy turn key see if you have spark
2)Fuel-crank engine few times, the pull a plug
Smell fuel? Then you are good there
3)Compression-buckle down buy a harbor freight tester kit and test
(If car ran briefly, this is not the issue)

T-Belt just does not skip a tooth out of the blue
But
With the sensor issues, and replacement of them, and no success
Possible that T-belt tensioner/pulley throwing off timing = no start

Let us know
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Old 10-03-2021, 01:19 AM   #16
AliBenn
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This double post thing getting annoying
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Old 10-03-2021, 02:54 AM   #17
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
This double post thing getting annoying
It happened to me too! I figured the codes were because I had the air box off, I was really hoping for some other code to pop up and point me into a direction.. Well along my journey I’ve pulled every coil and plug, tested and saw spark. I’ve confirmed that I have fuel (heard and seen) and this engine just got professionally built from a reputable shop here in Mo.. I haven’t tried compression but I’d be PISSED if it was low, since I paid an arm and leg to have it completely rebuilt. Lol I didn’t have issues for about 11 miles of driving. I’m still in the break in stage. It has to be something silly I did.. I labeled the fuel lines prior to pulling the engine and I’ve double checked all the connections a million times, I really don’t want to lean towards timing but I’m just out of ideas. My buddy let me borrow his Snap-On compression and leak down test prior to pulling it, looks like I better get it again, just to double check. I seriously appreciate you taking time to guide me!
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Old 10-03-2021, 05:21 PM   #18
AliBenn
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What exactly was done at shop?
How long ago before these issues came up?
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:21 PM   #19
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
What exactly was done at shop?
How long ago before these issues came up?
Machined then full rebuild of the longblock, they dressed it for me and the timing was done as well. I picked up the engine, installed my resurfaced flywheel and new clutch, dropped it in. Started up last week a little rough, and threw po340 (cam sensor) replaced it and ran fine no issues for about 4 miles, took it back out (in the neighborhood, babying it for 7 miles) and it stalled pulling into my driveway. Hasn’t started since. No terrible noises, I would have heard anything because I wasn’t in boost, didn’t go over 4k rpm and had the radio off. Haha

They put dark blue injectors in while they were rebuilding and informed me that it would be fine, I have NOT installed the 255 fuel pump. They rebuilt the 18g forced performance turbo as well. Everything was wonderful for a few laps around the neighborhood. Then it threw the crank sensor code as it died so I replaced both sensors with brand new ones.

Last edited by Ramon02; 10-04-2021 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 10-04-2021, 03:46 PM   #20
JoeRice
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Seems like cam timing is the next logical check. A compression test will also indicate cam issues
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Old 10-04-2021, 04:13 PM   #21
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeRice View Post
Seems like cam timing is the next logical check. A compression test will also indicate cam issues
I’ll compression test soon. Thanks Joe
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Old 10-04-2021, 07:56 PM   #22
AliBenn
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Man let shop know what your dealing with ASAP
Before they try to weasel out of workmanship issues

Let us know what compression test reveals
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Old 10-04-2021, 10:04 PM   #23
Ramon02
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
Man let shop know what your dealing with ASAP
Before they try to weasel out of workmanship issues

Let us know what compression test reveals
Originally I was going to drop the car off after all this, but I figured I should be able to narrow in on an issue but I suppose compression would be nice to know as well. I’ll do a compression test and contact the shop tomorrow.
Thanks y’all, I really appreciate you sticking through this!
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Old 10-12-2021, 03:13 PM   #24
Ramon02
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Default If anyone’s following.

So I can’t pin point what was the underlining issue but I replaced cylinder 4 spark plug it looked like the porcelain was chipped, cleaned all the grounds, checked all connections. I started it up without my MAF and it fired and idled great, I’m going to look into both of these MAF and touch base later on. Weird.. running.. but weird
Still doesn’t solve why it originally stalled.

Last edited by Ramon02; 10-12-2021 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 10-14-2021, 04:15 PM   #25
JoeRice
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Chipped plug would definitely cause severe running/starting issues. But your comments on the MAF are confusing, it is running without a MAF? You can not drive the car without the MAF, you'll kill it with high AFR.

Still recommend taking it back to the shop....
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