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Old 07-17-2003, 06:16 PM   #1
kenzo
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Default Dynamat: Necessary or Not?

Planning to put Quart 6.5" components in the front and 4" coax in the back...

How much difference will Dynamat-ing the doors make?

1. None
2. Minor
3. Significant
4. Don't even think about -not- using it
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Old 07-17-2003, 10:09 PM   #2
Dr. Morbid
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I have dynamat in my front doors and trunk, it made a big difference. As far as I'm concerned the money is well worth it even to just get the front doors done and it can be done as you install the front speakers.
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Old 07-17-2003, 10:56 PM   #3
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4. Period.

I did full doors (Coupe), under rear deck(no rear speakers), and the inside of the trunk lid.

Very happy with the results.
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Old 07-18-2003, 11:49 AM   #4
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Thumbs up

4



-Jason
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:27 PM   #5
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http://www.raamaudio.com/

I've heard it's just as good as Dynamatt, easier to work with, and A LOT cheaper...

-S
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Old 07-18-2003, 12:31 PM   #6
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Along with his question, how many sqr feet needed to do front doors, rear doors and trunk?

-- Steve
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Old 07-18-2003, 01:56 PM   #7
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IF you spend good money on your components (MB's I would call good components) then it is a 4 on the importance list. You make no mention of the rest of your system. If you listen to talk radio all day during your commute then don't waste your time/money on sound deadening. IMO same answer if you are using deck power for those speakers.

If you plan on listening to moderately high volumes and enjoy quality sound then by all means spend the extra money/time on sound deadening. It is worth the effort and does make a fair amount of difference. If you are running an amp and plan on adding a sub then definitely do the sound deadening. For your average guy who just wants back ground music while sitting in traffic and wants it to sound "good" upgrade your components and deck and call it a day. Your average "audiophile" would not ask this question IMO.

Figure out what/how you will be listening and make your choice accordingly friend. Most non audiophiles are not going to be able to distinguish between a deck powered speaker playing in a sound deadened door at moderate volume vs the same in a non sound deadened door. There may be a midbass difference when dealing with deck power pre clip between the two doors but it won't be big one.

Good luck
Fej
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:28 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by fej
IF you spend good money on your components (MB's I would call good components) then it is a 4 on the importance list. You make no mention of the rest of your system. If you listen to talk radio all day during your commute then don't waste your time/money on sound deadening. IMO same answer if you are using deck power for those speakers.

If you plan on listening to moderately high volumes and enjoy quality sound then by all means spend the extra money/time on sound deadening. It is worth the effort and does make a fair amount of difference. If you are running an amp and plan on adding a sub then definitely do the sound deadening. For your average guy who just wants back ground music while sitting in traffic and wants it to sound "good" upgrade your components and deck and call it a day. Your average "audiophile" would not ask this question IMO.

Figure out what/how you will be listening and make your choice accordingly friend. Most non audiophiles are not going to be able to distinguish between a deck powered speaker playing in a sound deadened door at moderate volume vs the same in a non sound deadened door. There may be a midbass difference when dealing with deck power pre clip between the two doors but it won't be big one.

Good luck
Fej
Thanks for your detailed reply (and everyone else's as well). It's always wise to ask users how they plan to use something before issuing recommendations.

The system will be a high-end Pioneer head unit, a JL Audio amp, MB Quart 6.5" components up front, MB Quart 4" coax in the back. No sub at this point, although I'll be running 4AWG power to the trunk and the subwoofer line out as well for "future expansion".

I do consider myself an "audiophile", but I like to ask for user reviews on audio equipment or accessories that sound somewhat "gimmicky". For example, I've personally run blind A/B comparisons between Monster Cable and 16-gauge lamp cord, including high-resolution signal measurements, and have -never- seen any advantage to Monster Cable. It's a waste of money, IMHO.

Thanks for the comments on Dynamat (or similar products).
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:41 PM   #9
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In your case, a layer or two in the doors would work very well. No need for more. Some in the trunk would be nice when you get the sub. Check out the size kits dynamat has and figure that's how much you'd want. It's all the same material, just different amounts of it for each location. Don't get the dynamat though, find an alternative that's much cheaper.
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Old 07-19-2003, 04:07 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by kenzo

For example, I've personally run blind A/B comparisons between Monster Cable and 16-gauge lamp cord, including high-resolution signal measurements, and have -never- seen any advantage to Monster Cable. It's a waste of money, IMHO.
Run this test in a typical car environment on a 12V system and then tell me your "high-resolution signal measurements" don't show a significant difference in the noise floor between the two differently wired systems.
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Old 07-19-2003, 09:38 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by WRSport


Run this test in a typical car environment on a 12V system and then tell me your "high-resolution signal measurements" don't show a significant difference in the noise floor between the two differently wired systems.
I did, and they didn't.

Before you demonstrate your "open-mindedness" and "willingness to learn" with further "quotes", perhaps you'd be interested in details of the test procedure, the test equipment, equipment calibration records, the environmental parameters, and the credentials of the engineer. Or just continue to cast aspersions without further information - it's a free country.

I'd rather support a company with engineering skill instead of a company with primarily marketing skill...

...but purchase satisfaction comes from many factors. Anyone who feels better purchasing really expensive cable should do just that. A warm, fuzzy feeling is probably worth it.
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Old 07-20-2003, 05:21 PM   #12
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Dynamat or equivalent is very necessary IMO.

Our cars are like tin cans! At least get one layer on the inner surface of all outside metal. It seems to help move the source of the noise down. The roof would be horrible too in a heavy rainstorm.



wires - that argument has been played out many many times, I side with kenzo.

WRSport - go to www.carsound.com go to the forums and read up on things that Richard Clark, David Navone, and may others have posted.

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Old 07-20-2003, 09:53 PM   #13
JT Clark
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Quote:
Originally posted by kenzo


I did, and they didn't.

Before you demonstrate your "open-mindedness" and "willingness to learn" with further "quotes", perhaps you'd be interested in details of the test procedure, the test equipment, equipment calibration records, the environmental parameters, and the credentials of the engineer. Or just continue to cast aspersions without further information - it's a free country.

I'd rather support a company with engineering skill instead of a company with primarily marketing skill...

...but purchase satisfaction comes from many factors. Anyone who feels better purchasing really expensive cable should do just that. A warm, fuzzy feeling is probably worth it.
With speaker wire, no, there really is no significant difference. I bet the monster wire would be easier to bend and fit into place, but as far as SQ goes, you won't notice. The same goes for power and ground. Get something meant for car audio and your good to go. Size and flexibility is the only real difference. One more thing, there's also how tough the jacket is. Once you get into something meant for the car though, it doesn't matter so much. Don't get welding cable as that isn't protected against some types of crap that cars are normally exposed too.

Interconnects can be noticeable. Just get some unshielded twisted pair and you're good to go. Big name brand isn't important. Just better than radio shack generic cables. Something like stinger hyper wire or knukonceptz will work great. I'm going to get some soon. No need to spend $100 per cable..
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Old 07-21-2003, 03:22 PM   #14
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The first mod I did to my car was dynamat the doors, roof, rear wheel wells and the trunk. It makes the car soooo much quieter. Especially in the rain where I felt I was sitting in a snare drum during a down pour. Also it gives the doors a much more solid feel when you close them. By properly sound deadening your WRX you can make it feel like a car that costs a few thousand dollars more. I would reccomend sound deadening to ANYONE who owns a WRX unless your racing and trying to lose every spare pound. Regardless of what you plan on doing to your stereo system.

Brian
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Old 07-23-2003, 02:14 AM   #15
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I agree that if you consider yourself an "audiophile" there should be no question whether or not to install sound dampening in your doors. I'd recommend doing the inside of the doors as well as replacing the plastic sheeting. I really can't describe how much of a difference it makes. You will see a huge improvement in sound quality and efficiency which means you can play your music at lower head unit levels and probably get away with less power from your amp.

All the major manufacturers offer dampening/barrier products to fit this situation and I personally like products from Cascade. I dont remember off hand if Dynamat has something like this but Cascade offers sheeting products (I think 12"x30" or so) that are perfect for replacing the plastic sheeting because they are resealable.

Ok this is getting long....just my opinion but I think you should definitely use some form of dampening.....send me a pm if you wanna know more
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Old 07-23-2003, 12:36 PM   #16
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I assume the dynamat goes on the inside of the shell of the car, ie. on the metal parts, not on the inside of the inner door panels for example, but on the inside of the outer door?

(hope that makes sense)
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Old 07-23-2003, 01:07 PM   #17
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anyone have pics of a well-damped front door panel and skin?
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Old 07-23-2003, 06:12 PM   #18
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On the metal parts yes
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Old 07-23-2003, 07:17 PM   #19
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i just did all 4 doors with a dynomat substitute. while i was in there i used silicone and secured EVERYTHING, all the clips for the wiring, all the panel mounting clips. spent $5 on some foam weather stripping and did the edges of te door panels. basically took anything that could rattle hit it with something.

i must say, it is a 100% improvement, and get this, even the stock speakers sound good. the doors sound great when you shut them, road noise has died a bit and the stereo is less audible when outside the car.

well worth the time and trouble, took about 2 hours.
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Old 07-23-2003, 10:52 PM   #20
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Thanks to all who shared their Dynamat (or equivalent) experiences. Sounds like (pun intended) a worthwhile addition to the system install.

kenzo
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:06 AM   #21
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For the best sound you should dampen the inside of the outer door skin as well as the outside of the inner skin (part that the door panel itself secures to, replacing the clear plastic).

I have some pictures that I'll try to post a little later when I have the time.
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:50 AM   #22
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Default road noise?

What would be the best way to get rid of road noise? Would you still use sound dampening material on everything or would your strategy be a little different?

I know there is a little difference between sound damping and deading but I dont' really know what the difference in materials is.
Could both be used at the same time?

Can someone explain?

Thank you
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Old 07-24-2003, 09:21 AM   #23
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Foam works great for getting rid of road noise. The sticky sound dampening materials have had limited success. They do help, but something like carpet foam works better. I am installing b-quiet's Vcomp. It's a composite foam that has a flexible rubber backing. The rubber acts as a barrier. I've heard good things with using the rubberized undercoating on the wheel wells. I think I'm going to try that too.
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Old 07-24-2003, 12:04 PM   #24
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JT Clark - Thanks for the reply that makes sense
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Old 07-24-2003, 01:31 PM   #25
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I just did the inside of the doors (replacing the plastic sheet) how much difference will that make without doing the inside of the outer skin? and how much of a pain is it to get to the outer skin? anyone have a tutorial on how to do it? i can definatly feel the vibrations in the outer skin even with not much power going to my infinities.

thanks for the help.
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