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Old 07-31-2003, 01:17 PM   #1
BritSti
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Default Need help with alignment specs, results inside.

Just had the Sti in for an alignment, steering was off center. Now the steering is off center to the left instead of the right, so I need to go back to get this fixed. Anyways check out the specs below which were dialed in, any comments before I head back to sort this out.



Performed by Direct Tire in Watertown, MA - good operation.

Thanks.
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Old 07-31-2003, 01:36 PM   #2
MTMS4
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Looks like they're set pretty close to the standard factory specs.....
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Old 07-31-2003, 01:43 PM   #3
DonA
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You may have them dial in more Neg front camber. I went max (-1.3) neg for better turn in. If you don't intend to AutoX or do track events leave it alone or you get slight premature tire wear.

I also went with 0 toe F & R

As for the steering wheel it depends on the tech if they are careless and don't strive for perfection the wheel will be off center

but otherwise the numbers look fine
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:33 PM   #4
MTMS4
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Default factory camber settings ?

Can someone please confirm what the standard camber settings are.

From an earlier thread (which I now can't find) the camber specs I had written down were -0.30 (front) and -0.40 (rear) with both front and rear toe-in set to 0. I've subsequently seen two postings where the rear camber (standard) setting has been quoted as -1.40.......so, what is the rear camber; -0.40 or -1.40 ?

Thanks.
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Old 07-31-2003, 02:40 PM   #5
BritSti
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Thanks for the advice guys, the car feels pretty good with these specs, but the steering wheel offcenter issue is a pain, I don't think they focused too much on that the first time around.
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Old 07-31-2003, 04:36 PM   #6
DC6
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Just got mine done as well......what do you all think?
Front Camber L/R -0.8/-1.1
Front Caster L/R 4.7/4.4
Front Toe L/R -0.02/-0.02
SAI L/R 15.5/16.2
Rear Camber L/R -1.2/-1.6
Rear Toe L/R 0.01/0.07

Total toe Front -0.04

Total camber Rear 0.4
Total Toe 0.08
Thrust angle -0.03

Should I be... or should I be oh yeh they did manage to scrape my front bumper lip while they were at it.
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Old 07-31-2003, 06:07 PM   #7
SubyTechMaster
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Please don't take this personnally. If you weigh more than an average person (say 175lbs.) this will cause the vehicle to pull to the left. Does the car drive straight/differant if you have a passenger?

The alignment specs do not specify placing weights in the car, other manufacturers do. I know from experiance that if the driver is heavy the alignment will need to be compensated for them.

With that understood, it looks like they just made a minor correction to front and rear Toe. What they don't show is what change they made to your tire pressure which they would have checked/adjusted before checking alignment.
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Old 07-31-2003, 06:20 PM   #8
BritSti
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Luckily no offense taken, I weigh 173, so I shouldn't be effecting the overall feel on the car that much... took it back in and they made some minor tweek to center the wheel, basically the road they test on after a 4 wheel alignment has some camber in it which masked the wheel being off center.....
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Old 07-31-2003, 06:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by DC6
......what do you all think?
Front Camber L/R -0.8/-1.1
Front Caster L/R 4.7/4.4
Front Toe L/R -0.02/-0.02
SAI L/R 15.5/16.2
Rear Camber L/R -1.2/-1.6
Rear Toe L/R 0.01/0.07...
What I am thinking is why they couldn't get the left and right camber and toe values matched better and set to the vaules they should be at...?! Its almost as if they didn't even touch the rear. What were your pre-alignment values?

This is why I don't take it to dealers. If the numbers are within the range...whatever that "range" may be...its OK as far as they are concerned. They also don't do any non-stock allignment specs.
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Old 08-01-2003, 12:11 PM   #10
DC6
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I took my car to a motorsport shop that had a laser alignment and asked them for a performance alignment that's streetable and if I want autoX as well....so this is what they set me at. They said they tried to get both of the L/R to be even but couldn't.

Here is what I had before....

Front Camber L/R 0.1/-0.4
Front Caster L/R 4.7/4.4
Front Toe L/R 0.24/-0.05
SAI L/R 14.5/15.4
Rear Camber L/R -1.2/-1.6
Rear Toe L/R 0.27/0.04

Total toe Front 0.18

Total camber Rear 0.5
Total Toe 0.31
Thrust angle 0.11
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Old 08-01-2003, 12:51 PM   #11
Austin
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Quote:
Originally posted by DC6
I took my car to a motorsport shop ... They said they tried to get both of the L/R to be even but couldn't.

Here is what I had before....

Rear Camber L/R -1.2/-1.6
Sorry, but they didn't try very hard. There is at least 0.1 degrees adjustment in each direction on the rear suspension by pushing/pulling when torquing down the strut bolts.

No motorsports shop I've ever talked to would've let you leave with .4 rear cross camber.
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Old 08-01-2003, 01:25 PM   #12
JDMTEG98
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I got them to fix my steering wheel and they said the alignment machine printer was broken (Sounds like BS to me )
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Old 08-01-2003, 01:58 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by Austin
Sorry, but they didn't try very hard. There is at least 0.1 degrees adjustment in each direction on the rear suspension by pushing/pulling when torquing down the strut bolts.

No motorsports shop I've ever talked to would've let you leave with .4 rear cross camber.
What would .4 rear cross camber do(as in to the tire and alignment)...and what do you think it should be at? Also if anyone knows what would be the best setup possible if anyone has done so for their alignment...this is for street and autoX. Thanks
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Old 08-01-2003, 07:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally posted by DC6


What would .4 rear cross camber do(as in to the tire and alignment)...and what do you think it should be at? Also if anyone knows what would be the best setup possible if anyone has done so for their alignment...this is for street and autoX. Thanks
Cross camber should be 0.0. Cross toe should be 0.0. The key is to get both sides equal. That way your car turns left in the exact same manner it turns right.

If one rear corner has adjustability from -1.2 to -1.5 and the other side has adjustability from -1.4 to -1.6, then both sides should be set at -1.4. Equal.

In the front, if the side that is -.8 camber can not get more negative, then both sides should be set at -.8. Equal.

Your front toe looks good (although if you do get re-aligned, it'll change due to changes in camber).

Your rear toe is what I'd expect of a high school dropout working at the local Sears alignment center. Either you want 0 toe, or you want 1/8" total toe out. If you want zero rear toe, then both should be 0.0. If you want 1/8" total toe out, then both sides should be 1/16" out, about -0.07. Cross toe should definitely be 0.00. Right now you have 0 rear toe on one side, and 1/16" toe out on the other.

As for what the best alignment is... there is no best alignment. What is good for you depends on how your car is set up and your driving style, among other things.
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