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Old Yesterday, 11:02 AM   #1
Vtagimp
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Join Date: Apr 2019
Default Stubborn engine

Has anyone come across the engine and trans not separating for a rebuild?
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Old Yesterday, 01:00 PM   #2
yarrgh
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Chapter/Region: RMIC
Location: Bailey, CO
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2001 2.5RS
Black Diamond Pearl

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Nope, you're the first.
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Old Yesterday, 01:50 PM   #3
Charlie-III
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtagimp View Post
Has anyone come across the engine and trans not separating for a rebuild?
Quote:
Originally Posted by yarrgh View Post
Nope, you're the first.
As stated.....nope.
I will say, most likely issue is the 2 dowel pins (about 3 and 9) are corroded between the 2 halves.
Make SURE all bolts/nuts removed.
Make SURE trans and engine are basically supported.
May need some heat where dowels go to trans, BernzOMatic torch is usually enough.
Thick "putty knife" in engine/trans gap to start the separation, go to bigger things later on.
Pull clutches (usually Subaru turbo engines) NEED the fork pivot pin removed early on.

I have yet to not separate.
Yes, I have had some issues getting things apart......but always did......
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Old Yesterday, 02:03 PM   #4
Vtagimp
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Default

Propane or map? I'm no longer in a garage with the means of fresh eyes lol. Medically retired.
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Old Yesterday, 02:40 PM   #5
Charlie-III
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Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vtagimp View Post
Propane or map? I'm no longer in a garage with the means of fresh eyes lol. Medically retired.
Either should work. Basically, "differential coefficient of expansion" (whizzy engineering crap.....) of aluminum vs. the steel dowel pin.....
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Old Yesterday, 02:41 PM   #6
Vtagimp
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Thanks so much for the fresh insight
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Old Yesterday, 02:42 PM   #7
Charlie-III
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: USA, North NJ, 07456
Vehicle:
1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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Originally Posted by Vtagimp View Post
Thanks so much for the fresh insight
NP......

How about filling in at least a state and year/model of car?
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Old Yesterday, 02:44 PM   #8
Charlie-III
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1998 Legacy 2.5GT
Silver Sleeper BK, 5MT

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VT could be Vermont or Virginia Tech, or others.....assuming you're in Vermont....
I could also be totally wrong on my assumptions.....
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Old Yesterday, 03:18 PM   #9
Vtagimp
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04 impreza ts n/a 2.5 her name is bluebell and we are in PA
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Old Yesterday, 08:20 PM   #10
wtdash
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Location: N. Idaho
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2002 WRX GG>>
2016 Focus RS

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May be helpful? The '99+ engines have 6 bolts around the bellhousing (plus the dowel pins) to remove- if you've not got them all.
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Old Today, 12:00 AM   #11
CosmoTheCat
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Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Oly
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98 My FMIC
Is bigger than yours.

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I've had good luck putting a jack stand under the differential to trans seam, then pulling the bellhousing bolts (and nuts on the studs), and putting some good weight on the front of the engine. Let gravity work for you, tends to get the job started.
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