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Old 04-08-2018, 08:28 AM   #26
Senfinger
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Originally Posted by HoeLeeFuQQ View Post
I made a video explaining this on my YouTube channel.

https://youtu.be/0fsv9oaYKiU
Great option! I talked with someone in my FB group who soldered into thier c-light wiring and stated that it doesn't dim for them on the 18- so may try that first and if something is weird go with the add a fuse route! Huge thanks for putting this vid together showing this. Was going to say you could always dremel out a small space for wiring to come out so it doesn't get pinched at all.

Thanks again!
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Old 04-08-2018, 09:42 AM   #27
HoeLeeFuQQ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Senfinger View Post
Great option! I talked with someone in my FB group who soldered into thier c-light wiring and stated that it doesn't dim for them on the 18- so may try that first and if something is weird go with the add a fuse route! Huge thanks for putting this vid together showing this. Was going to say you could always dremel out a small space for wiring to come out so it doesn't get pinched at all.



Thanks again!


No Problem Hope it helps out more people. Have a great day.
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:18 AM   #28
ryanbartlette
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When tapping into high beam did they dim differently or stay on at full brightness?
I havent tried tapping into the high beam, but I would think that would disable the DRL when the low beam kicks on no? I'll give it a try though and see what happens
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Old 04-12-2018, 11:19 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by HoeLeeFuQQ View Post
I made a video explaining this on my YouTube channel.

https://youtu.be/0fsv9oaYKiU
Awesome thanks for the video, I will give this a shot! Where did you get that fuse adaptor from?
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:54 PM   #30
anarekist
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Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
I havent tried tapping into the high beam, but I would think that would disable the DRL when the low beam kicks on no? I'll give it a try though and see what happens
i tapped the high beam and the low beam so they stay on all the time
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:57 PM   #31
Senfinger
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i tapped the high beam and the low beam so they stay on all the time
Even when the car is off or? Or you saying if you tap into the power of the high beam and the low beam they are on all the time? Just got mine in today = )
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:01 PM   #32
anarekist
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Even when the car is off or? Or you saying if you tap into the power of the high beam and the low beam they are on all the time? Just got mine in today = )
the latter, when ever my low beam or high beam is on, they come on too. so basically all the time unless i have my parking brakes on.
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:05 PM   #33
Senfinger
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the latter, when ever my low beam or high beam is on, they come on too. so basically all the time unless i have my parking brakes on.
That's super cool; so did you tap both high and low on them- or cut, splice and solder...

Guessing they stay full brightness too without dimming which is what I was unsure about by tapping into the drl directly...
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Old 04-12-2018, 05:33 PM   #34
anarekist
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That's super cool; so did you tap both high and low on them- or cut, splice and solder...

Guessing they stay full brightness too without dimming which is what I was unsure about by tapping into the drl directly...

i just used two fuse taps, both leading to the power wire for the DRL bezel lights.

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Old 04-12-2018, 05:55 PM   #35
Senfinger
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Awesome pic! What harness is that and also what is the one to the right? (I know they are add-a-fuse's etc...) But details = ) Huge thanks...
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:03 PM   #36
Senfinger
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Also the crazy big un-used black female plugs... did you just zip tie it nicely behind the ballast. Also, did the bolt and nuts go tight... heard some people had to get spacers/to loose.
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Old 04-12-2018, 06:18 PM   #37
anarekist
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used the subispeed wiring harness, but in hindsight, it would have been pretty easy to just make my own. oh well.

the one to the right is for my additional 2 hella horns, lol

yeah, the one being covered by the tap is the fuse puller stock location, couldn't use it anymore because of the tap.

as for the others female connections.. duno they were not occupied. maybe something on the limited version, i have the premium trim.

i just zipped tied my ballast to the bumper support beam, once you take off the bumper cover you'll see, there's lots of options on how to mount and tuck everything in, i think i left the majority of the wires near the window wiper fluid container.
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:23 PM   #38
Senfinger
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So I tested tapping into the red and black (Green) 3-wire Plug under the height adjuster going into headlight.

It works perfect and stays full brightness in all modes, however were people aren't happy is when the E-Brake goes up it dims and the jdm drl doesn't and appear to be different temps... Not sure how that will look but that's what you get... No power to them when off.
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Old 04-13-2018, 02:24 PM   #39
Senfinger
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So I was wondering what would happen if you plugged the power into DRL Green Wire and Y'd out of that... would it dim down and up with the C-Light or and unplugged vs plugged too?...

Or do we even have a DRL Resistor on 18 Headlights lol
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Old 04-16-2018, 10:26 PM   #40
HoeLeeFuQQ
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Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
Awesome thanks for the video, I will give this a shot! Where did you get that fuse adaptor from?


Ijdmtoy came attach to wire. Bought it from amazon.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:03 AM   #41
Senfinger
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Alright, so I have been meaning to come back into this thread and update my install... Other than a issue with a deformed jdm drl plastic cover that I'm currently working on a replacement.

1) I ran the JDM DRL into the current C-Light DRL Wiring... basically that 3 wire plug right under the height adjuster on a 18 STI
Tapped the +/- from each and ran both sides the same way to ballast via Solder/Super 80 Electric Tape. The JDM DRL works perfect and at full power-
I tested all the modes via off and cranked and connected to battery direct.
So no dimming at this point.

HOWEVER> the issue is actually on the OEM STI C-Light... it carries more power and lights up brighter from factory than the JDM DRLs when the E-Brake goes down. When its up or lights are on it dims the oem C-Light to same level as the JDM DRL.

I will say this that even though the JDM DRLs with full power aren't as bright the color and level of brightness is off but distance still looks amazing and "right". IMHO>


Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanbartlette View Post
I have the JDM DRL wired up with the low beams. They kick on when the headlights turn on. I also have automatic headlights. I originally wired them up with the c-light DRLs but found the brightness of the JDM DRLs was significantly lower than the actual c-light DRLs, and I couldnt figure out why. It seems the stock c-light DRLs actually dim a bit once the headlights turn on, so the brightness of the JDM DRLs match that lower brightness when the headlights are on. But, I would LOVE if I could tap into whatever wire powers the c-light DRLs so that they turn on with them at full brightness, then dim to the same level when the headlights kick on. Anyone have any more information on the schematics or any success on wiring these up properly?

In all the videos I've seen from Subaru, the JDM DRLs light up the same brightness as the c-light DRLs even with the headlights turned off. I just want the JDM DRLs to function exactly the same as the c-light DRLs
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