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#1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Basically what the title says. I guess since i've been tracking the car a decent amount with race pads the bolt was fried in there. I knew something was wrong as soon as i started to loosen the top bolt. I thought the bolt was going to break but since the caliper is made of aluminum the threads in the caliper gave instead. The bolt is fine but just has some aluminum stuck in the threads.
Has this happened to anyone else and if so what did you do? The last thing i want to do is buy a new caliper. I'm thinking i can go to a machine shop and have them clean it up and re-thread it to a bigger size bolt. Or have them weld the hole up, redrill and thread to the stock size bolt. Any ideas please. I have a track day next thursday Nov. 10th!!
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#2 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4715
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Pass the Butt Aid
Vehicle:Big balls, no brain |
![]() Exact same thing happened to me. I took it to the mechanic - two of the bolt heads broke in one caliper, and on the other side, the bolts destroyed the caliper threads when they came out.
I ended up buying a used set of Brembos and put some anti-seize on the bolts before installing it. Raj |
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#3 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 16
Join Date: Jun 1999
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Chico, CA
Vehicle:1968 Saab Sonett II V4 |
![]() i'm waiting for Awesome to post. This exact thing happened on his STi about a month ago. same situation, car that was tracked a bit, threads in caliper stripped out. I passed the link to him.
Chris H. edit: raj beat me to it |
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#4 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4715
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Pass the Butt Aid
Vehicle:Big balls, no brain |
![]() BTW, those bolts are tough mofos. Good luck getting them out if they snap inside the caliper.
Raj |
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#5 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Quote:
*****! I just took the other side off with no problem and put a good amount of anti-seize on the threads. The last thing i want to do is buy a new/used caliper. There has to be a cheaper solution. Thanks for the input though guys. Oh and what's the torque on the bolts anyway? |
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#6 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 51282
Join Date: Dec 2003
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: Highland Park, LA
Vehicle:98 RS black & blue from parking |
![]() Tap kit?
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#7 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 61686
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Bay Area
Vehicle:2004 WRX Silver |
![]() Do you guys wait for the caliper/brake to cool down before you unbolt the calipers/brake?
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#8 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Quote:
My brakes were cold when i started working on them. I just rolled her out of the garage and started working. Anyone else strip their caliper threads?? |
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#9 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 62439
Join Date: May 2004
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Des Plaines, IL
Vehicle:2004 WRX STi Silver |
![]() the same bs happened to me last summer, ended up waiting 2 weeks to get a new caliper from brembo and $800 later, i was pissed
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#10 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Quote:
Wow. you see, that's just unacceptable for me. There's no way in hell that i will pay for a brand new caliper especially at that price. There has to be a cheaper solution and i'm on a mission to find out what it is. I'll be contacting a few machine shops by me tomorrow to see what can be done. |
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#11 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4715
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Pass the Butt Aid
Vehicle:Big balls, no brain |
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Let us know what you find out ![]() Raj |
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#12 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 56232
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region:
RMIC
Location: omaha
Vehicle:89 325I i don't know |
![]() the bolts are coarse thread right? if so then wow, weak --- aluminum batman.
assuming they get the bolt out the only ideal (and trackable) solution would probably go up a size in bolts, basicly rethread the caliper with a larger tap, then you'd have to drill out the mounting hole too. the machine shops may have a better solution, but MAN that sucks! |
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#13 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
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![]() ![]() ![]() What you said is one solution but not on the top of my list. I'll keep you guys updated. And yes it does SUCK |
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#14 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 22035
Join Date: Jul 2002
Chapter/Region:
SCIC
Location: San Diego, CA
Vehicle:2014 Brocoma DCab 71 FJ40, 13 DRZ400SM |
![]() you might be able to use a retap, were you drill out the hole, and retap it, then put the insert in. this will give you back the stock size thread and size. Not sure this is the best way to fix this, but it would be the cheapest.
also, you could take it in and have the hole retapped. and just use a larger size bolt. either way, that really sucks. i guess the dissimular metals, just didnt work out to well. and the metal botl gauled up the alu too much. Shane |
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#15 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 80136
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Saugus, MA
Vehicle:2006 Ford F-150 Black |
![]() heh, you want a permanent fix? find yourself a stainless steel helicoil.
(stainless steel and aluminum, apparently because of differences in the chemical compounds of the metal?, love to freeze together to the point where you'll NEVER get them apart. then, just use a mildsteel bolt (Grade8 or better of course), and it *should* never freeze again. aluminum is funny stuff, and once something corrodes in it, its done. you'll never get it out in one piece drilling it and retapping a larger hole is an option, but a pain in the ass....cause then you'll ALWAYS have one out of 8 of your caliper bracket bolts be a different size. the helicoil would allow you to keep the stock sized bolt. i dont think NeverSieze is a good idea. stuff like that tends to make bolts a little more likely to back themselves out a bit, which is NOT a good thing when it comes to brakes. instead, i say just clean them up with a wirebrush, and reinstall them. (plus, if the helicoil works well, you can just repeat the process if this happens again **unlikely, but possible** |
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#16 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Quote:
As for the antiseize, i don't think it's a problem. If anything it's a good thing to use for these bolts because it's highly recommended to use antiseize with aluminum due to it's relatively soft nature. Also, there are lock washers on these bolts and they're torqued to over 100 ft/lbs. I don't think they're going anywhere. Last edited by gills; 11-01-2005 at 12:03 AM. |
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#17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 16
Join Date: Jun 1999
Chapter/Region:
BAIC
Location: Chico, CA
Vehicle:1968 Saab Sonett II V4 |
![]() galvanic corrosion is what you speak of. Just like how stainless spring perches will nicely corode themselves onto aluminum threaded coil-overs.
Basically, you will drill out the caliper to a larger size, then rethread to the od of the helicoil. The stock bolt will now thread into the id of the helicil. I would personally use anti-sieze on these bolts. In fact, I might do it this weekend, because i dont want to run into this problem down the road, after another year of track days. Chris H. |
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#18 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
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#19 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 17751
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: I want to believe...
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#20 |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 16200
Join Date: Mar 2002
Vehicle:OK buy Nates beans westcoastroasting.com |
![]() ...gentlemen.....just make sure that any anti-seize that you use with aluminum contains NO graphite....graphite and aluminum is BAD juju.
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#21 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Ok,
ordered a helicoil thread repair kit. Size of the bolt for anyone in the future with the same problem: M12x1.50 fine thread I'll be receiving it tomorrow morning and will be attempting to install shortly after. I will keep everyone posted. Tom |
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#22 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 11316
Join Date: Oct 2001
Chapter/Region:
Tri-State
Location: Long Island, NY
Vehicle:1988 E30S52 DD S14VQ35 & S13KA racecarzz |
![]() Install was a success. The whole process is exactly like making a fresh thread on a drilled hole except for the last part which is installing the helicoil insert. Just had to take my time drilling to make sure everything was as straight as possible.
I haven't driven and tested her yet because i am waiting on some other parts to install(JDM STi coilovers, RCE Camber plates ![]() I was able to clean the aluminum out the threads of the suspect bolt by cutting a properly sized nut in 1/2, putting it below the caked threads then loosening it off. Worked really well. so far a big thumbs up to helicoil inserts for using the same sized bolt in the STi Brembo caliper. Total spent: $70.00 |
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#23 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 80136
Join Date: Jan 2005
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Saugus, MA
Vehicle:2006 Ford F-150 Black |
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glad we could help ![]() |
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#24 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 4715
Join Date: Mar 2001
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Pass the Butt Aid
Vehicle:Big balls, no brain |
![]() Sweet dude. Thanks for the write up.
Raj |
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#25 | |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 89528
Join Date: Jun 2005
Vehicle:2005 sti crystal grey |
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