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Old 05-19-2020, 08:25 PM   #1
carnz-pj-410
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Default Dyno Tune: 2005 Forester XS 701whp on E

Car: 2005 Forester 2.5XS
Tuner: John Kerr @ JK Tuning/Innovative Motorworks
Dyno: Mustang MD-150
Transmission: 2004 STi 6MT with 07 STi 2nd-4th Gears and Spec. B 5th-6th gears
Gear: 4th
Peak HP on E85: 701whp (Uncorrected) 785whp (Corrected)
Peak TQ on E85: 549wtq (Uncorrected) 614wtq (Corrected)
Peak HP on 93: 470whp (Uncorrected)
Fuel: E85 and 93 Octane (Flex Fuel tune)
Engine Mods: IAG Stage 4 Tuff Block, ID2000 injectors, Shibakoff Fab T4 Turbo kit, Borg Warner S372SX-E T4 .81 Turbocharger, BC280 Cams, etc..
Engine Management: Link G4+ WRX104+

Fuel system is maxed out (90% IDC, didn't want to exceed that), the setup still has more in it if i make a few fueling changes, and maybe ditch the stock intake manifold too






I finally finished working on my 05 XS and dropped it off for a tune Monday.
Unfortunately couldn't hang around to watch since there are tons of restrictions in place currently due to covid.

Either way, got the final results

470whp @17psi on 93 Octane (simple gate pressure tune for when I don't fill up with E85)

and

701whp/550wtq @39psi on E85


The car is a blast to drive and i'm going to try to make it to the 1/4mile pretty soon, i just want to get some more seat time first

Edit:
Heres a few photos of the car for the hell of it


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Last edited by carnz-pj-410; 05-19-2020 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:02 PM   #2
TDagen
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This is...... AWESOME!!!

Is there a fastest forester record? I’m pretty sure you might be about to claim the title.
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Old 05-19-2020, 09:22 PM   #3
carnz-pj-410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TDagen View Post
This is...... AWESOME!!!

Is there a fastest forester record? Im pretty sure you might be about to claim the title.
Thanks!


Forester record would be pretty cool but im sure someone has had to have built something crazy by now
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Old 05-20-2020, 11:38 AM   #4
pcampbell
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Dang, nice. What do you rev this to?
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Old 05-20-2020, 12:13 PM   #5
carnz-pj-410
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Originally Posted by pcampbell View Post
Dang, nice. What do you rev this to?
8200.
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:15 PM   #6
CursezZz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnz-pj-410 View Post
8200.
**when you remember to do so
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Old 05-20-2020, 02:23 PM   #7
carnz-pj-410
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**when you remember to do so

Yeah not used to that yet lol
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Old 05-21-2020, 06:41 AM   #8
pcampbell
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Default Dyno Tune: 2005 Forester XS 701whp on E

What do you think it should run ?

Other stupid Q did you put in a tach that goes over 8000?
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:28 AM   #9
carnz-pj-410
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Originally Posted by pcampbell View Post
What do you think it should run ?

Other stupid Q did you put in a tach that goes over 8000?
I have a JDM STi Forester cluster(9k tach), reflashed to read speed in MPH too.

I'm not going to make any predictions on ET/trap. Once I get a bit more seat time I'll be at the track. It's largely dependant on driver so I'm going to get some practice in lol... Last time I was at the track I broke the transmission in my old coupe so I'm probably going to be a little easy on it the first few runs just to be sure
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Old 05-22-2020, 08:54 AM   #10
pcampbell
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Awesome. Look forward to some results.
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:02 PM   #11
JDAM_37
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Gez, talk about a drag sleeper. I'm sure it draws a lot of hurt egos out there in that community.
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Old 05-25-2020, 12:37 PM   #12
08SpecB_DE
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And a functioning ac system for the humid MD summers to boot! Can you explain the reasons for the special trans gearing? Do you ever travel through Delaware? I think I've seen you before.
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:07 AM   #13
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Can you mention what you have now in terms of fuel components and what you plan to upgrade? Curious to see what is the limitation. Injectors seem big enough.Thanks!
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:54 PM   #14
carnz-pj-410
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Originally Posted by 08SpecB_DE View Post
And a functioning ac system for the humid MD summers to boot! Can you explain the reasons for the special trans gearing? Do you ever travel through Delaware? I think I've seen you before.
Yes, I made sure the A/C would remain in place and function perfectly, my old fun car did not have AC and it sucked bad in the summers lol. As far as the gearing goes, the 07/Spec B gear set gives nicely spaced gears and they are a bit longer which is nice when going to the dragstrip. The Spec B 5/6 are longer than the STi gears which is nice when cruising on the highway too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by taxkourel View Post
Can you mention what you have now in terms of fuel components and what you plan to upgrade? Curious to see what is the limitation. Injectors seem big enough.Thanks!
I have a modded stock hanger with a Walbro 450 lph pump and a Walbro 525 lph pump (mixed up just because that's what I had on hand at the time). The outlet is a -8AN on the stock hanger which is connected to a -8AN line ran all the way to the engine bay. Then I have an ID F750 fuel filter, going to a Radium Fuel Pulse Damper, then split -6AN to each fuel rail.

Return side is a -6AN from each rail to a Radium Multi Fuel Pressure Regulator, then I have 2 -6AN outlets, one going to each OEM hard-line (tank to Bay). By using both OEM hard pipes as the returns it has plenty of flow to keep fuel pressure under control even with both fuel pumps running at 100% all the time.

I have come up with some ideas for fuel system improvement if I decide to chase more power, but that would be after summer at the earliest. I want to run the car as is since it's a great time right now.


I'd upgrade the intake manifold too if I do decide to add more fuel.
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Old 05-30-2020, 02:33 PM   #15
Bariga
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have you removed the stock venturi system ?
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Old 05-30-2020, 03:11 PM   #16
2slofouru
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Holy crap, on the stock hanger and intake manifold. It's doing serious work for sure. I am running mine in a similar fashion, 8an ptfe through the cabin to the engine and the two oem hard lines as returns like yours. I'm even keeping the evap line to relieve positive and negative pressure from the tank. I don't have faith in the fuel cap always working and don't like fuel fumes. Same here with the A/C, so much power can be made without removing it.\

Guess I will ask first, which valves and springs are you running?
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Old 05-30-2020, 06:40 PM   #17
carnz-pj-410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bariga View Post
have you removed the stock venturi system ?
I have not, I have plans to swap to the Radium unit if I decide to upgrade the fuel system to a surge tank setup with more pump, etc ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
Holy crap, on the stock hanger and intake manifold. It's doing serious work for sure. I am running mine in a similar fashion, 8an ptfe through the cabin to the engine and the two oem hard lines as returns like yours. I'm even keeping the evap line to relieve positive and negative pressure from the tank. I don't have faith in the fuel cap always working and don't like fuel fumes. Same here with the A/C, so much power can be made without removing it.\

Guess I will ask first, which valves and springs are you running?
I am using GSC Beehive Valvesprings and Titanium Retainers, GSC +1 Intake Valves and GSC +1 SuperAlloy Exhaust Valves.
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Old 05-30-2020, 08:09 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carnz-pj-410 View Post
I am using GSC Beehive Valvesprings and Titanium Retainers, GSC +1 Intake Valves and GSC +1 SuperAlloy Exhaust Valves.
Same here. I'm only running a 3576g2 though, but still hope to hit decent numbers. One dw300 lift pump and a dw400 in a surge tank, with lines basically like yours is what I'm working on. I'm currently still doing the ecu rewiring, running new sensor wiring from the oem location and going to build the engine harness with new oem connectors. All of the fuel goodies are just lying around in wait, but I did run the 8AN ptfe front to back to be sure it fits under the sill with no problem.
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Old 06-03-2020, 02:40 PM   #19
06rexwagon
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90% IDC on 2000's at that power level sounds like you have insufficient pump. I've taken 2000s to 830+ uncorrected on my car and IDC is still in the 80s. I'm running dual 400lph AEM 044 style pumps in a surge tank.
I run the EFR9280 T4 divided but am looking at the S327SX-E so I can push it without risking the turbine wheel ending itself.

Last edited by 06rexwagon; 06-03-2020 at 02:52 PM.
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Old 06-03-2020, 09:04 PM   #20
carnz-pj-410
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Originally Posted by 06rexwagon View Post
90% IDC on 2000's at that power level sounds like you have insufficient pump. I've taken 2000s to 830+ uncorrected on my car and IDC is still in the 80s. I'm running dual 400lph AEM 044 style pumps in a surge tank.
I run the EFR9280 T4 divided but am looking at the S327SX-E so I can push it without risking the turbine wheel ending itself.
Yeah i've determined i have a flow issue with my pumps that is causing my limitations.

A buddy with a larger built setup than mine made 840 wheel on the same dyno with ID2000s, so we are going to dig into it
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Old 06-03-2020, 09:51 PM   #21
2slofouru
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Originally Posted by carnz-pj-410 View Post
Yeah i've determined i have a flow issue with my pumps that is causing my limitations.

A buddy with a larger built setup than mine made 840 wheel on the same dyno with ID2000s, so we are going to dig into it
If you split the oem wire on the hanger for both pumps and are still using the oem connector on top, you may be losing a lot of voltage. The oem ground for the pumps goes all the way to under the passenger front seat on my old impreza, and if yours is also there you can lose a lot. The oem pins for the hanger connector are very tiny and won't handle much pump current. Also factor in that there are two sets of contacts the power has to run through for the connector...the ones outside the hanger and the ones where the pump harness in the tank plug in to the hanger. You could also consider the connectors at the pump, but most people probably aren't going to solder them for risk of warranty denial.

On my modded oem hanger I have an aftermarket connector also added and have both the oem two wires and the ones from the other connector going to the same pump. I originally was going to use the 400 pump and it draws a good bit over stock, but ended up with a 300 for lift...so now the hanger is major overkill.

-Is your hanger running on the oem speed controller or straight from a relay with a dedicated thick wire from the battery?

-I'd also recommend running two of the same pump if they are paralleled on the hanger. Someone may chime in saying they believe it's fine, but something about two pumps with different flow and relief valve pressure worries me. Also one pump may have a check valve with the other not. Something to check into.

Either way, seeing several people running two pumps has convinced me to buy another (hnnnhghhhhhh) DW400 to install in the surge tank. Two will surely get rid of my only limitation. May as well make full use of the 2000cc injectors!
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Old 06-03-2020, 10:01 PM   #22
carnz-pj-410
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2slofouru View Post
If you split the oem wire on the hanger for both pumps and are still using the oem connector on top, you may be losing a lot of voltage. The oem ground for the pumps goes all the way to under the passenger front seat on my old impreza, and if yours is also there you can lose a lot. The oem pins for the hanger connector are very tiny and won't handle much pump current. Also factor in that there are two sets of contacts the power has to run through for the connector...the ones outside the hanger and the ones where the pump harness in the tank plug in to the hanger. You could also consider the connectors at the pump, but most people probably aren't going to solder them for risk of warranty denial.

On my modded oem hanger I have an aftermarket connector also added and have both the oem two wires and the ones from the other connector going to the same pump. I originally was going to use the 400 pump and it draws a good bit over stock, but ended up with a 300 for lift...so now the hanger is major overkill.

-Is your hanger running on the oem speed controller or straight from a relay with a dedicated thick wire from the battery?

-I'd also recommend running two of the same pump if they are paralleled on the hanger. Someone may chime in saying they believe it's fine, but something about two pumps with different flow and relief valve pressure worries me. Also one pump may have a check valve with the other not. Something to check into.

Either way, seeing several people running two pumps has convinced me to buy another (hnnnhghhhhhh) DW400 to install in the surge tank. Two will surely get rid of my only limitation. May as well make full use of the 2000cc injectors!
I have the stock connector as i couldn't decide on another solution, i did de-pin all of the wiring and solder new wiring on the internal side and on the other side as well. I have no FPC, using 2x DW hardwire kits, my grounds come right out of the hanger and goto the RR strut mounting.

To power two pumps i deleted the fuel temp sensor, de-pinned, then soldered in thicker gauge wire, each pump has it's own dedicated power and ground wiring. Yeah the 2 different pumps was only because thats what I had on hand when i was putting the car back together (was running out of time).

I plan to grab another 525 that way when i work on the fueling i can swap the 450 out and i'll have matching pumps.

I've been considering installing a surge tank and going to a single lift pump, but i havent committed to that yet.
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Old 06-03-2020, 10:26 PM   #23
2slofouru
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Yeah, definitely better to utilize the temp sensor pins for the extra pump. At least you aren't running both through two oem pins. 700+ is still a LOT of power, whether or not someone made more. Every setup has different components and obviously the tune and dyno readings will be different. Having the two hardwire kits surely means you are getting plenty of voltage to the connector.

I would think two 450 or two 525 would be enough for four 2000cc injectors, then again I haven't even got my setup put together. By the time I get mine running, there will be better injectors, ecus, pumps...everything. I will be five years behind, lol. Haltech already came out with the Nexus and I have an elite 2500 which was still their new line when I started building my car!

Definitely will stay tuned.
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Old 06-23-2020, 10:13 AM   #24
06rexwagon
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Just picked up the s372-sxe to run for drag only (Have an EFR9280 for street and lower boost). I chose the .91 A/R twinscroll for my full race kit. So far it spools about 350-400 rpm later than the EFR, but top end is strong. The 9280 made over 820 uncorrected at 7400' Density Altitude about a month ago (1000+ SAE). I will dyno the car on the s372-sxe at 50+ psi and see how it does.
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Old 06-23-2020, 12:13 PM   #25
carnz-pj-410
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Originally Posted by 06rexwagon View Post
Just picked up the s372-sxe to run for drag only (Have an EFR9280 for street and lower boost). I chose the .91 A/R twinscroll for my full race kit. So far it spools about 350-400 rpm later than the EFR, but top end is strong. The 9280 made over 820 uncorrected at 7400' Density Altitude about a month ago (1000+ SAE). I will dyno the car on the s372-sxe at 50+ psi and see how it does.
I know they can make high power when turned up

I've fixed my fueling issue and I'm going to schedule a retune after summer
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