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Old 11-27-2009, 05:29 PM   #1
gtasti
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Default Air Bag delete 3.3ohm resister not working?

i'm getting a set of jdm v8 seats

so i just went out to try and delete the air bag light with the resister and nothing the light is still on

i tried putting 3 in the plug still nothing

btw you only have to do this to the 2 yellow plug right ?

the white plug gets left alone ?

so any help would be great thanks
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Old 11-27-2009, 05:50 PM   #2
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I thought that resistor trick only worked with the steering wheel one...Maybe the seat requires a different one
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:06 PM   #3
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pretty sure supposed to work with the seat one
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:14 PM   #4
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Its supposed to work if:
1. you have the correct resistor
2. you installed in correctly
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:34 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cpunlamd View Post
Its supposed to work if:
1. you have the correct resistor
2. you installed in correctly
I looked at the back of pack says 3.3ohm
and i just put it in the plugs not that hard didnt work

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Old 11-28-2009, 12:40 AM   #6
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are they 3.3ohm 1/4w or 3.3kohm 1/4w?
big difference. also make sure there 1/4 watt.
are you disconnecting the battery first and waiting 20 minutes b4 installing?
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:01 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mongoosaroo View Post
are they 3.3ohm 1/4w or 3.3kohm 1/4w?
big difference. also make sure there 1/4 watt.
are you disconnecting the battery first and waiting 20 minutes b4 installing?

oh not 100% sure what they are I'll look in the morning
i assume you need the 3.3kohm 1/4watt

and no i didnt discount battery is this necessary

thanks for the info
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:25 AM   #8
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3.3ohm is the correct one. It's not a common one, if you found it, it was probably 3.3k.

You need to get 3x. 10ohm = 3.3ohm. Merge em together and put it in.
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jubert69 View Post
3.3ohm is the correct one. It's not a common one, if you found it, it was probably 3.3k.

You need to get 3x. 10ohm = 3.3ohm. Merge em together and put it in.
alright thanks

I'll look on back of package tomorrow

or just go buy those ones you said there like 6 bucks for a 150
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Old 11-28-2009, 12:16 PM   #10
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Why will no one listen to me on this even though I post it time and time again. The spec for an airbag igniter is 2.0 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms. This is what your airbag control monitor is looking for.

Find a resistor (or make one) between 1.8 to 2.2 ohms. Done. 3.3 might work, but thats not technically the value they are designed to look for.

Of you use a resistor of 3.3kohms, your airbag control module will assume that the airbag inflator is either missing or deployed because that is a significantly high resistance.

Remember, and airbag inflator igniter is basically a light bulb. There is a filament and it has a resistance if it is intact. If you deploy the igniter, you pass significant current through the filament and it heats up and burns the propellant. Then since the filament is burnt up, it shows as a super high resistance or open loop. This triggers the ACM to show a light on.

<<<< Airbag engineer.
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Old 11-28-2009, 03:20 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Why will no one listen to me on this even though I post it time and time again. The spec for an airbag igniter is 2.0 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms. This is what your airbag control monitor is looking for.

Find a resistor (or make one) between 1.8 to 2.2 ohms. Done. 3.3 might work, but thats not technically the value they are designed to look for.

Of you use a resistor of 3.3kohms, your airbag control module will assume that the airbag inflator is either missing or deployed because that is a significantly high resistance.

Remember, and airbag inflator igniter is basically a light bulb. There is a filament and it has a resistance if it is intact. If you deploy the igniter, you pass significant current through the filament and it heats up and burns the propellant. Then since the filament is burnt up, it shows as a super high resistance or open loop. This triggers the ACM to show a light on.

<<<< Airbag engineer.

ok but where do i find a resister in between 1.8 and 2.2

btw the one i got says 3.3m ohm
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:35 PM   #12
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can someone maybe post a pic plz
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Old 11-28-2009, 04:56 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtasti View Post
ok but where do i find a resister in between 1.8 and 2.2

btw the one i got says 3.3m ohm

If you can't find the resistance you need, you can put some resistors in parallel or series to get what you need. Read this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Resistor

Or use this online calculator for parallel (for series, just add it straight up):

http://www.1728.com/resistrs.htm

I recommend buying a multi-pack at radio shack for $8 bucks.
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Old 11-28-2009, 06:45 PM   #14
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i put in 2x 10ohm in each plug and it worked

is it possible to do the same for the air bag sensors on the side as well ?
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Old 11-28-2009, 08:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Why will no one listen to me on this even though I post it time and time again. The spec for an airbag igniter is 2.0 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms. This is what your airbag control monitor is looking for.

Find a resistor (or make one) between 1.8 to 2.2 ohms. Done. 3.3 might work, but thats not technically the value they are designed to look for.

Of you use a resistor of 3.3kohms, your airbag control module will assume that the airbag inflator is either missing or deployed because that is a significantly high resistance.

Remember, and airbag inflator igniter is basically a light bulb. There is a filament and it has a resistance if it is intact. If you deploy the igniter, you pass significant current through the filament and it heats up and burns the propellant. Then since the filament is burnt up, it shows as a super high resistance or open loop. This triggers the ACM to show a light on.

<<<< Airbag engineer.
is there anyway to do this for the clock light also? I would love to remove my clock and not have an airbag light on my dash because of it.
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Old 11-28-2009, 10:09 PM   #16
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no idea ^^^^^
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Old 11-29-2009, 12:16 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpluiten View Post
Why will no one listen to me on this even though I post it time and time again. The spec for an airbag igniter is 2.0 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms. This is what your airbag control monitor is looking for.

Find a resistor (or make one) between 1.8 to 2.2 ohms. Done. 3.3 might work, but thats not technically the value they are designed to look for.

Of you use a resistor of 3.3kohms, your airbag control module will assume that the airbag inflator is either missing or deployed because that is a significantly high resistance.

Remember, and airbag inflator igniter is basically a light bulb. There is a filament and it has a resistance if it is intact. If you deploy the igniter, you pass significant current through the filament and it heats up and burns the propellant. Then since the filament is burnt up, it shows as a super high resistance or open loop. This triggers the ACM to show a light on.

<<<< Airbag engineer.
Interesting...that would probably explain why my airbag light stays on a little bit longer than it should (3-5 seconds)when I start the car.
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Old 11-29-2009, 01:03 AM   #18
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They're prob not making good enough contact. I had to pull the clips off. Now it stays off. Used to pop back on once in awhile
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Old 11-29-2009, 03:14 PM   #19
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has anyone delete the light from the side air bag sensors

looking to remove them
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Old 03-11-2017, 06:46 PM   #20
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Great info guys. I also bought 3.3K resistors by mistake and no wonder my light is on. However my car is a 2015. Can someone confirm that the 3.3 Ohm will work?

Thank you
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Old 01-29-2018, 03:58 AM   #21
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3.3ohm, not 3.3K ohm (which is 3300 ohm) worked fine on my 2012 STi, for both sides.

Now I have a 2017 and before I change the seats I will measure the resistance of the airbag line ON THE SEAT, not the car-side wires, with my multimeter. You can do the same to figure out what it is. Once I find the resistance I buy a resistor pack of that type, in 1/4watt and a very low tolerance (meaning it is very close to the labelled resistance).

If your resistor is beneath your target resistance you can slightly file it while metering the resistance. This will cause the resistance to rise until your target is met. Good luck.
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:51 AM   #22
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I wouldn't test it with a meter.
Your meter tests resistance by applying a voltage across it. The airbag inflator is deployed by....... applying a voltage across it.
The voltage from the meter may or may not be enough to set the inflator off, but it's not a good idea to find out.
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Old 01-31-2018, 05:44 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder View Post
I wouldn't test it with a meter.
Your meter tests resistance by applying a voltage across it. The airbag inflator is deployed by....... applying a voltage across it.
The voltage from the meter may or may not be enough to set the inflator off, but it's not a good idea to find out.
100% incorrect. A multimeter would NEVER send out voltage of any kind. You are thinking of a power probe. Been a professional installer for almost two decades and never once has my meter sent out voltage. It will never do this. This is how rumors get started. A meter is safe to test resistance on airbag lines just fine. Just so people know, resistance of any kind must be measured on an open circuit to get accurate readings. Meaning you must have the seat unplugged and measuring the seat bag line itself and not the car-side wires. The passenger side will be the same but modern cars will also have an airbag weight bladder you must transfer over to your new seat on that side if you want the seat to work properly. Thanks for replying.
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Old 02-02-2018, 03:56 AM   #24
99gtfoz
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can anyone tell my the ohm i need to cancel out the passenger airbag in a 98 gt forester.
i just put a 13 wrx dash into my forester and the airbag has been removed because it already gone off
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