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Old 06-30-2016, 01:15 PM   #76
lpxltt
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2007 OBS

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That one is a 220v unit. All of the MIG/Flux units are that way it seems. The 110 units are only flux (which is weird, from what I read flux usually requires more juice to run).

This weekend I plan on cutting up an old WRX sedan shell I have to take the whole strut towers out. That way I know I will have whatever material I need and the sheet metal will be as close as possible.

I will probably be tackling this some time after NEFR.

BTW, what is the best way to get all of that undercoating off? I'm assuming sand blaster is my best bet?
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:21 PM   #77
norcaltuna
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Just saying.... I LOVE my 120v Lincoln "handy mig." Available all day at Home Depot, flux or gas, pos or neg and lays a stack of dimes on 1/8 steel on a 30a socket, and welds sheet metal on the end of any orange cord. Get an auto dimming hood : )
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Old 06-30-2016, 01:41 PM   #78
lpxltt
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That unit looks like a pretty solid choice. Not that much more than the HF specials and I'm sure is a better product.
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Old 06-30-2016, 03:58 PM   #79
Snowphun
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lpxltt View Post
That one is a 220v unit.
Doh, sorry about that, I was looking at the price and the amps. The low end Lincoln is the way to go, either the HD special model or the HD3200 I have off CL or Ebay. Mine is ten years old, rarely gets used but I used it this week for 3+ hours and it's a champ.
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Old 09-01-2016, 01:18 PM   #80
codesoccer
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My car came from up north and I just discovered this on both sides I've never welded so I've gotta find someone willing to help. Thankfully the holes aren't as big as some of the others I've seen here.
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Old 09-24-2016, 12:13 AM   #81
ChuckNorris2344
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Voila my 02 wagon lol



See the fabulous wall ripping at the top plate lol

..actually still on the road this car!!

Multiple hours and beers and redneck welder.
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Old 05-02-2017, 09:48 PM   #82
lpxltt
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So bringing this back from the dead a little bit.

After two friends found the same issue as displayed here and I haven't had the time to repair the car yet, I figured I would shoot them an email.

Long story short, Subaru doesn't care if this might kill someone some day. But they are willing to throw $500 "Loyalty" coupons at you to stay quiet, only for the purchase of new vehicles of course.
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Old 08-13-2018, 02:13 PM   #83
SirBrass
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Zombie thread, I know. However, just moved to PA from the Southwest (AZ and CA), so this kind of scares me.

What kind of preventative maintenance can help mitigate this?

And I assume that this will be an issue for any MY subaru, not just the early oughts?
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:28 PM   #84
Snowphun
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And I assume that this will be an issue for any MY subaru, not just the early oughts?
This is a know issue for GG chassis cars (MY02-07 Impreza wagons, 9-2X) due to the boneheaded design Subaru used for the folding rear seat brackets. Maybe it's also an issue on other wagons but I haven't heard of it.

Seam sealer on the exposed bracket hardware in the wheel well, hose the bottom off frequently in the winter, that's about all you can do. And get snow tires.
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Old 08-13-2018, 03:46 PM   #85
SirBrass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowphun View Post
This is a know issue for GG chassis cars (MY02-07 Impreza wagons, 9-2X) due to the boneheaded design Subaru used for the folding rear seat brackets. Maybe it's also an issue on other wagons but I haven't heard of it.

Seam sealer on the exposed bracket hardware in the wheel well, hose the bottom off frequently in the winter, that's about all you can do. And get snow tires.
We've got the Outback listed by my name, so I'll check the next time I have a chance to take a look. And I'll make sure the '19 WRX I'm going to get doesn't have the same issue either.
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Old 08-15-2018, 09:58 AM   #86
lpxltt
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I think the more modern cars are designed a little better... kinda... Our 2018 Crosstrek has a rear wheel well protector that the older cars didn't/couldn't have due to suspension design. The best bet is to use some kind of seasonal rust preventative. Fluid film or New Hampshire oil company are bother good choices.

I haven't taken a look at the newer Outbacks yet but I'm assuming they are designed like the Crosstrek with the plastic plates all over the bottom. I would hope that helps prevent at least a little rust...

With that being said, you are living in a state that salts the earth because people are too stupid to use proper equipment on their vehicles. Eventually, you are going to develop some kind of rust because there is always that area that can't be cleaned well enough or is a hidden issue like the one in this thread.

With that being said, in regards to the specific issue in this thread - you don't have to worry. It's a specific 02-07 Impreza wagon issue. To my knowledge there isn't the same kind of crazy hidden danger like this in the your car - at least not one that has been found yet.
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Old 02-15-2020, 07:47 PM   #87
Swed-Ish
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2005 92x Aero

Angry Joining the club

Well I'm officially joining this sad crew. Pulled the rear suspension to install a new set of coilovers, and noticed a small orange rust spot showing through the undercoating.
Remembered reading this thread a while back and decided to pull the rear interior to check...

Rusted right through on the drivers side.



I haven't finished pulling the passenger side yet, but I'm assuming it will be identical. I'm going to try and tackle the repair myself and buy a welder (always knew there would be a need). Anyone have any tips for keeping the seat locking bracket in the same spot, or is it just a matter of measuring your distances and marking the new piece of metal?

Also seems like Subaru used to sell the entire piece... https://www.subarupartsdeal.com/part...1650fe020.html

Last edited by Swed-Ish; 02-15-2020 at 10:06 PM. Reason: spelling adding link
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Old 02-15-2020, 09:13 PM   #88
Snowphun
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The seat back bracket is the easiest part: once the repairs are done clip the brackets into the seat, then put the seat into the upright position. You'll be able to see the bracket, position it and mark the repaired towers. A few tack welds and good to go.

Plasma cutter makes this much more manageable, you'll need to cut a lot more than it appears, and it looks like yours has crept around the sides as well. There's a welder/fabricator in central CT that repaired my most recent wagon for ~$700, can be done in less than a day. The stock metal is soda can thin, it's tricky to do a clean job.
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Old 02-15-2020, 10:15 PM   #89
Swed-Ish
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snowphun View Post
The seat back bracket is the easiest part: once the repairs are done clip the brackets into the seat, then put the seat into the upright position. You'll be able to see the bracket, position it and mark the repaired towers. A few tack welds and good to go.

Plasma cutter makes this much more manageable, you'll need to cut a lot more than it appears, and it looks like yours has crept around the sides as well. There's a welder/fabricator in central CT that repaired my most recent wagon for ~$700, can be done in less than a day. The stock metal is soda can thin, it's tricky to do a clean job.

Thanks for the tips on the rear seat, and placing it in the upright position! Also mind DMing me the fabricators info? Always helps to know more skilled people.
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Old 02-17-2020, 06:29 AM   #90
Snowphun
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Originally Posted by Swed-Ish View Post
Also mind DMing me the fabricators info?
I'll leave it here in case anyone else needs it:

Brian Goetz
60 Belamose Ave Rocky Hill CT
(860) 841 0245

Good dude, easy to work with. He has a shop at that address, that's where we did my car. He is also mobile so depending on location having him come to you may be easier as you can have the car on stands, struts and interior removed, ready to go. Then you don't have to rush the primer and undercoating.
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