Welcome to the North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club Sunday October 20, 2019
Home Forums WikiNASIOC Products Store Modifications Upgrade Garage
NASIOC
Go Back   NASIOC > NASIOC Technical > Factory 2.5L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.5L Turbo)

Welcome to NASIOC - The world's largest online community for Subaru enthusiasts!
Welcome to the NASIOC.com Subaru forum.

You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, free of charge, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact us.







* As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. 
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads. 
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-10-2017, 10:05 AM   #426
ALOKIN
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 348177
Join Date: Feb 2013
Chapter/Region: TXIC
Location: TX
Vehicle:
2002 Bugeye
Haltech GTX3584RS

Default

Get viton orings
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
ALOKIN is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
* Registered users of the site do not see these ads.
Old 04-10-2017, 10:45 AM   #427
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ALOKIN View Post
Get viton orings




Where would I put the o rings?
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 11:46 AM   #428
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

Yours looks to be a different design than mine. My 2011 the fuel pump snaps into a housing that has a filter inside of it. The pressure seal from the factory comes with one oring and a spacer. Yours seems to attach with a hose. There shouldn't be any leaking problems as long at that hose doesn't come off and is nice and tight. I'm guessing the other end of the hose connects up to the port going out of the tank. Looks like yours does not have any orings. I could be wrong. Maybe others may know better.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 11:53 AM   #429
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

Did you install the original pump? If so did you change how it's connected to the fuel lines? When I look up a 2009 STI it shows the same set up as mine which sure doesn't look like the picture you got. You can see the spacer and oring in the diagram.

sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 12:45 PM   #430
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
Did you install the original pump? If so did you change how it's connected to the fuel lines? When I look up a 2009 STI it shows the same set up as mine which sure doesn't look like the picture you got. You can see the spacer and oring in the diagram.



Wow yeah when I bought the car it already had a walbro 255 in it. So whoever installed it definitely changed something. Well that's awesome, no idea how I'm going to go about this now. The pump in the picture I posted is the aeromotive 340. Which I'm replacing with a walbro 450, since the 340 isn't working right.
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 12:58 PM   #431
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

I wonder why they would've installed the hose like they did? It's more a pain than anything. When I install the pump into the car, the housing compresses and the hose is between it. When I first installed the 340 I did a pull and was losing fuel pressure. That hose was smashed between the housing, I have it now so it isn't as bad. Maybe I should just take the hose off and run it like it should be in the diagram?
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 01:26 PM   #432
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

I'm not sure why they would have changed it. But to revert it back to factory would take a bit, especially considering you don't know what all they did to it. My advice, pick a used housing up off of eBay. Or try your new pump with however they have it installed.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 01:31 PM   #433
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
I'm not sure why they would have changed it. But to revert it back to factory would take a bit, especially considering you don't know what all they did to it. My advice, pick a used housing up off of eBay. Or try your new pump with however they have it installed.


Alright I'll try the new pump and see what happens, if not I'll just get a used housing. Did you hardwire yours?
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 02:10 PM   #434
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

I sure did. My turns on when the key is on and doesn't stop till the key is off. That's why I originally questioned your suspected problem. Once hardwire does, the pump will run at max mean maximum fuel pressure regulated by the fuel pressure regulator. Even if it's bleeding down when the pump is off, it shouldn't be an issue once the pump is on. If it is, I don't think it would run at all.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 02:55 PM   #435
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
I sure did. My turns on when the key is on and doesn't stop till the key is off. That's why I originally questioned your suspected problem. Once hardwire does, the pump will run at max mean maximum fuel pressure regulated by the fuel pressure regulator. Even if it's bleeding down when the pump is off, it shouldn't be an issue once the pump is on. If it is, I don't think it would run at all.


That's exactly how I have mine hardwired! So I'm still trying to think if it's just fuel related. It didn't start acting like this until after I installed the 340. I don't think it's the fact it's hardwired. I mean I can hear the pump running when I turn the key up, it's obviously working. For me to have to crank it a couple times to start, sounds like it's just losing pressure.
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 04:21 PM   #436
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

It's definitely hard to say not knowing your fuel pressure. One of the best things I like about the Cobb ap and flex fuel is I can monitor fuel pressure differential. Difference between actual fuel pressure and boost pressure. There's also a compensation feature. It'll tell me if the ap is adjust because fuel pressure isn't holding. Pretty slick ****.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 04:41 PM   #437
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Well fuel pressure at idle was where it should be. I hooked an inline fp gauge and went and did some pulls. When I would go into boost the pressure would drop to like 15. So I know it's the 340. When I called aeromotive to say I wanted to return it, I was told that's not surprising. They said those pumps suck lol so hopefully when I install the 450 everything goes right.
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 04:42 PM   #438
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Yeah where I live there is no e85 near me. The Cobb flex fuel would be nice, I'll eventually buy an ap. Once my car is running like it should.
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 04:44 PM   #439
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZTruitt7 View Post
Well fuel pressure at idle was where it should be. I hooked an inline fp gauge and went and did some pulls. When I would go into boost the pressure would drop to like 15. So I know it's the 340. When I called aeromotive to say I wanted to return it, I was told that's not surprising. They said those pumps suck lol so hopefully when I install the 450 everything goes right.
Yeah dropping is definitely bad. It should rise proportionate to boost.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 04:47 PM   #440
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
Yeah dropping is definitely bad. It should rise proportionate to boost.


Exactly so I'm returning the 340, just need to install the 450. It made 398awhp and the pump wasn't flowing right. So the new pump hopefully will work right.
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 05:43 PM   #441
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

That's definitely good power for not being on ethanol. I'm would imagine the 340 should have had enough to keep you there especially hard wired. Hopefully the new pump fixes it up for you. Fuel problems can be very frustrating. One last thing I was thinking about. Do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? If so, where do you have it adjusted? I know once I went hardwired, the fuel pump can overcome the return lines and fuel pressure is about 10psi higher at idle than it is once the engine starts consuming enough to make up for the restrictions.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 06:32 PM   #442
ZTruitt7
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 450157
Join Date: Jul 2016
Vehicle:
2009 Sti hatch
IG- ztruitt7

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
That's definitely good power for not being on ethanol. I'm would imagine the 340 should have had enough to keep you there especially hard wired. Hopefully the new pump fixes it up for you. Fuel problems can be very frustrating. One last thing I was thinking about. Do you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator? If so, where do you have it adjusted? I know once I went hardwired, the fuel pump can overcome the return lines and fuel pressure is about 10psi higher at idle than it is once the engine starts consuming enough to make up for the restrictions.


Yeah I'm hoping for around 420awhp when it's done! It should be a blast to drive lol and yes I have an aeromotive fpr. After I hardwired it I adjusted it to where it should be, around 43 psi. Did you bypass your fpc as well?
ZTruitt7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2017, 07:31 PM   #443
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZTruitt7 View Post
Yeah I'm hoping for around 420awhp when it's done! It should be a blast to drive lol and yes I have an aeromotive fpr. After I hardwired it I adjusted it to where it should be, around 43 psi. Did you bypass your fpc as well?
That could be your problem then. If you adjust pressure with 100% flow at an idle to a baseline of 43#, your fuel pressure is going to drop once the engine starts eating up that fuel. I'd try a baseline of 50-55# at an idle with the vacuum line off. Once you're wot you should be about 45# above boost pressure. And yes, my controller is completely out of the picture.
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 02:26 AM   #444
kellygnsd
Scooby Guru
 
Member#: 32669
Join Date: Feb 2003
Chapter/Region: SCIC
Location: Woodland Hills
Vehicle:
2007 2.34LR, EFR7670
LINK G4+ hybrid STi

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sub2010ss View Post
That could be your problem then. If you adjust pressure with 100% flow at an idle to a baseline of 43#, your fuel pressure is going to drop once the engine starts eating up that fuel. I'd try a baseline of 50-55# at an idle with the vacuum line off. Once you're wot you should be about 45# above boost pressure. And yes, my controller is completely out of the picture.

With a properly sized fuel pressure regulator 43 psi base pressure at idle should be 43 psi at 100% duty cycle as long as the pump can keep up. Running 55 at idle expecting it to decay to 43 psi at redline is AFU. If that's what you need to do for your system you should try a fuel pressure regulator with a bigger flow co-efficient(Cv). I've never found that necessary with only one 340 L/h pump though.
kellygnsd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-11-2017, 08:51 AM   #445
sub2010ss
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 448862
Join Date: Jun 2016
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Cedar Rapids, IA
Vehicle:
2011 WRX
Dark Gray Metalic

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
With a properly sized fuel pressure regulator 43 psi base pressure at idle should be 43 psi at 100% duty cycle as long as the pump can keep up. Running 55 at idle expecting it to decay to 43 psi at redline is AFU. If that's what you need to do for your system you should try a fuel pressure regulator with a bigger flow co-efficient(Cv). I've never found that necessary with only one 340 L/h pump though.
Maybe the older ones are different, take a look at the diagram above. There's a jet pump assembly in our fuel canisters that sucks fuel from one side of the tank to the other. The restriction is not inside of the fuel pressure regulator, it's the return to the tank. I agree that running like I'm running isn't the most preferred method, but my car runs this way, runs good this way, and has been doing it for 3000 miles with good fuel mixtures. Also, it has to be considered when tuning the car. Lastly, I'm not the first or that last to run this way, there are plenty of people doing it. The only way around it is to use the fuel pump controller with pump duty cycle or change you fuel pump assembly to reduce the restriction of the jet pump by either modifying it or going with an aftermarket assembly. $$$$
sub2010ss is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-22-2017, 10:50 PM   #446
WhatTurboLag?
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 243992
Join Date: Apr 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Morton Grove, Illinois
Vehicle:
2006 WRX TR
WRB

Default

So I just wired my 450.

I did my connections at the FPC mini harness (incase I ****ed up I could just buy a new harness.

Key in the run position the pump pulls, and keeps pulling. No "prime". Will try to figure this out later but for now it's okay.

I used the FP+ wire on the fuel pump controller for the signal.

- from the pump to chassis

and I disconnected the negative fuel pump wire on the FPC entirely. Now, My fuel gauge isn't working at all, but it may be because the engine is out of the car maybe? I'm not sure. I was a little paranoid about having two open connections inside the fuel tank (a positive and a negative pin inside the tank where the old fuel pump wires were)

I will revisit that issue once the engine is in the car. No clue if I have any codes yet since the engine isn't in I didn't check lol
WhatTurboLag? is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-09-2017, 08:32 AM   #447
CTSparky
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 282204
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Northeast CT
Vehicle:
2011 5 Door STi
Plasma Blue Pearl

Default

For those of you that have bypassed or eliminated the control module... have you gone through any pumps? If so around how many Hours of use/ or miles?

I'm curious to hear about aftermarket pumps failing due to being run at full duty cycle for lengths of time.
CTSparky is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-16-2017, 02:08 PM   #448
Zumiez87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 206481
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX STI
Silver

Default

So I hardwired my fuel pump on my 13 STI and it runs constantly, doesn't prime then shut off. I saw someone else had the same issue but didn't get a response. I'm using the green and yellow wire and the green and red wire. Any ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated!!
Zumiez87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 01:09 PM   #449
Zumiez87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 206481
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX STI
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by WhatTurboLag? View Post
So I just wired my 450.

I did my connections at the FPC mini harness (incase I ****ed up I could just buy a new harness.

Key in the run position the pump pulls, and keeps pulling. No "prime". Will try to figure this out later but for now it's okay.

I used the FP+ wire on the fuel pump controller for the signal.

- from the pump to chassis

and I disconnected the negative fuel pump wire on the FPC entirely. Now, My fuel gauge isn't working at all, but it may be because the engine is out of the car maybe? I'm not sure. I was a little paranoid about having two open connections inside the fuel tank (a positive and a negative pin inside the tank where the old fuel pump wires were)

I will revisit that issue once the engine is in the car. No clue if I have any codes yet since the engine isn't in I didn't check lol
Hey did you figure this out at all?
Zumiez87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-17-2017, 04:30 PM   #450
Zumiez87
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 206481
Join Date: Mar 2009
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX STI
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zumiez87 View Post
So I hardwired my fuel pump on my 13 STI and it runs constantly, doesn't prime then shut off. I saw someone else had the same issue but didn't get a response. I'm using the green and yellow wire and the green and red wire. Any ideas? Help would be greatly appreciated!!
Got it! On my 13 STI, in the fuel pump harness. Cut green/yellow. Yellow wire from hardwire kit goes to connector side, and blue wire from hardwire kit goes to harness side. Then just run power and ground for the relay as usual. Now pump turns on, primes, shuts off. Like normal.
Zumiez87 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:59 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2019 Axivo Inc.
Copyright ©1999 - 2019, North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, Inc.

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.