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Old 09-23-2020, 08:26 PM   #1
dmc1240
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Default Install and tune in a couple weeks (what to expect hp/tq wise?)

Below is the full list of parts that will be on. I just want to go into it with realistic expectations. Any other last minute purchases I should make to make everything more reliable?

**Turbo inlet hose

**Cusco catch can

**Perrin equal length headers

**Grimmspeed up pipe w ewg flange

Grimmspeed downpipe

Cobb SF Intake

**Cobb fuel pressure sensor kit

**Turbosmart comp gate 40mm EWG

**Grimmspeed electric boost control solenoid

**Grimmspeed top mount intercooler

**IAG TGV deletes

**1050x injectors

**Am 340 lph fuel pump

**Turbo blanket

**Tein Flexz coilovers

**Whiteline 22m front swaybar

**Whiteline 22m rear swaybars

**Whiteline endlinks and Bushings

Perrin pitch stop mount

**Group N STI motors mounts

**Group N STI transmission mounts

**PST Carbon fiber drive shaft

South bend stage 3 clutch

Perrin light weight crank pulley

Perrin catback exhaust

Enkei RPF1 17X8

Firestone Indy 500
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Last edited by dmc1240; 09-24-2020 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 09-23-2020, 08:29 PM   #2
dmc1240
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Forgot to mention I have a 14 dgm hatch
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Old 09-23-2020, 08:52 PM   #3
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Also forgot to mention if you're still using the OEM turbo or something different.
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Old 09-23-2020, 08:54 PM   #4
dmc1240
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Ah yes, OEM turbo as well. Thanks for mentioning that.
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Old 09-23-2020, 10:22 PM   #5
JSR84
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300 Mustang dyno
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Old 09-23-2020, 11:45 PM   #6
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e85
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Old 09-24-2020, 01:57 AM   #7
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Default Install and tune in a couple weeks (what to expect hp/tq wise?)

Dude you read too much garage on these forums instead of consulting with a shop or tuner, you bought whole bunch of parts that won’t make your car faster or drive better. Please put oem crank pulley back on !
You just wasted thousands on nonsense and wont even get up to 300hp on accurate dyno, should of bought turbo instead of headers, driveshaft, crank pully , front sway bars etc....

Last edited by igoiks; 09-24-2020 at 02:02 AM.
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Old 09-24-2020, 07:32 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igoiks View Post
Dude you read too much garage on these forums instead of consulting with a shop or tuner, you bought whole bunch of parts that won’t make your car faster or drive better. Please put oem crank pulley back on !
You just wasted thousands on nonsense and wont even get up to 300hp on accurate dyno, should of bought turbo instead of headers, driveshaft, crank pully , front sway bars etc....


Dude, what's you definition of fast? Straight line speed? Yes I agree there are several items he could've done differently, but just because some of them aren't power mods doesn't mean he won't go faster. OP should mention what the goals are for this car. Things like the sway bars and driveshaft are actually good to have. I would've skipped the headers or gone with better ones like the Killer B Holy Header. Also would've skipped the Cobb intake and pressure sensor. But the down pipe, EWG items, injectors, and TMIC are all good to have for future upgrades and will make decent gains right now.

And yes get rid of that lightweight pulley and either use the OEM one or something like a Fluidampr pulley.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:30 AM   #9
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Id bail on the crank pulley and tgv deletes. I would add turbo inlet and upgrade to one step colder spark plugs. Id say you will make a 300 or so whp on a mustang dyno. Torque i would guess 330-360wtq. This is all provided you're on stock oem turbo and 93 octane fuel.

Remember, the dyno is just a tuning tool and it doesn't actually tell how the car will feel and drive on the road.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:30 AM   #10
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Sorry, realistically I'm just trying to make a fun street car that handles well. I'm not trying to make all the power and want a responsive vehicle with some decent torque and horsepower.

Personally yeah I know the perrin elh aren't has good as the killer bee ones but I got them for 900 and the kb headers are like 1700 which I just don't feel like they are worth it if I'm just trying to break 300+ whp.

And I personally like the crank pulley just since it has hugely improved downshifting feel. Im planning to keep stock turbo and don't plan on going e85 since the nearest station is an hour and realistically ill never go out of my way to get it.

I hope this was a bit more informative on my goals. Last time I was protuned stage 2 I was at 271hp/285tq on a mustang and just want to see how much over 300 whp I could possibly make. Thanks for the replies guys.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:33 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jay11STI View Post
Id bail on the crank pulley and tgv deletes. I would add turbo inlet and upgrade to one step colder spark plugs. Id say you will make a 300 or so whp on a mustang dyno. Torque i would guess 330-360wtq. This is all provided you're on stock oem turbo and 93 octane fuel.

Remember, the dyno is just a tuning tool and it doesn't actually tell how the car will feel and drive on the road.
I just added a new turbo inlet hose last night haha thanks for the suggestion. Why forgo tgvs? I got one step colder plus maybe 8 months ago from my tuner. Also why the hate on the pulley? I felt a night and day difference on downshifting consistency.
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Old 09-24-2020, 08:35 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
Dude, what's you definition of fast? Straight line speed? Yes I agree there are several items he could've done differently, but just because some of them aren't power mods doesn't mean he won't go faster. OP should mention what the goals are for this car. Things like the sway bars and driveshaft are actually good to have. I would've skipped the headers or gone with better ones like the Killer B Holy Header. Also would've skipped the Cobb intake and pressure sensor. But the down pipe, EWG items, injectors, and TMIC are all good to have for future upgrades and will make decent gains right now.

And yes get rid of that lightweight pulley and either use the OEM one or something like a Fluidampr pulley.
For the future I was going to wait until my engine croaks then rebuild with a new block and bigger turbo but thats only if it blows. Otherwise I'm okay with the potential power I might gain. I'm planning to get a new oil pickup and pan just in case as well for some reliability.
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Old 09-24-2020, 10:06 AM   #13
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It's debated about the crank pulley. But basically, Subaru put a layer of elastomer in the OEM pulley to dampen harmonic frequencies that may cause damage over time to the engine. Flat engines are more inherently balanced than most layouts, but they still resonate at certain frequencies. Aluminum pulleys do nothing to dampen those frequencies.

I had a GrimmSpeed pulley at one time. When I did my first engine swap I opted for a Fluidampr. I now won't use anything else. Your carbon DS makes a bigger difference in rotational mass than the crank pulley. A well designed pulley doesn't have to be insanely light to still have good response. I noticed no perceivable difference in throttle response for down shifting going from the GS pulley to the Fluidampr. However, now I'm doing what I can to protect my engine rather than increase the long term wear.
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Old 09-24-2020, 10:23 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc1240 View Post
I just added a new turbo inlet hose last night haha thanks for the suggestion. Why forgo tgvs? I got one step colder plus maybe 8 months ago from my tuner. Also why the hate on the pulley? I felt a night and day difference on downshifting consistency.
Definitely do the TGV deletes, or you'll just end up doing them later when the shaft end seals on the stock units start leaking vacuum/boost. Ask me how I know.
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Old 09-24-2020, 11:25 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snow_bound26 View Post
It's debated about the crank pulley. But basically, Subaru put a layer of elastomer in the OEM pulley to dampen harmonic frequencies that may cause damage over time to the engine. Flat engines are more inherently balanced than most layouts, but they still resonate at certain frequencies. Aluminum pulleys do nothing to dampen those frequencies.

I had a GrimmSpeed pulley at one time. When I did my first engine swap I opted for a Fluidampr. I now won't use anything else. Your carbon DS makes a bigger difference in rotational mass than the crank pulley. A well designed pulley doesn't have to be insanely light to still have good response. I noticed no perceivable difference in throttle response for down shifting going from the GS pulley to the Fluidampr. However, now I'm doing what I can to protect my engine rather than increase the long term wear.
Ahh that makes sense. Thats for the input, ill be looking into a replacement then. Ill probably be going the fluidampr route too then.
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Old 09-24-2020, 12:48 PM   #16
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One thing I don't see on this list is air pump delete. Since you're going to have the trans out and the up pipe off, you might as well delete the air pump, related plumbing, fuse, and relay while it is easily accessible.

Your tuner can turn off all the air pump codes in the tune. You'll drop about 15 lb. of weight, and the relays are known to catch fire anyway.

You'll need the block-off plates and gasket kit: https://www.aluminati.us/products/al...-delete-plates

Last edited by bicycle_wreck; 09-24-2020 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 09-24-2020, 02:24 PM   #17
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Everything on your list is fine, just dont need them at this point, but with a OEM turbo you will only make the power the turbo can push out which is around 300whp, MAYBE 320. Deff keep the TGV deletes.

I used a light crank pulley with a built block pushing 450whp with no issues. JR tuned it and my idle and everything was on point. Keep in mind the 5spd tranny is not as strong as 6 spd. So that will limit you pushing high hp.
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Old 09-25-2020, 01:23 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
300 Mustang dyno
I put down 320 on stock injectors on a Mustang don't clown the guy too hard.

340 was probably too big for 1050s but it doesn't matter pumps are cheap.

I'm not sure what you guys get in the newer WRXs for stock turbos, from google it says its an IHI but GDs all got TDs in the WRXs.

If its a TD then 350 is realistic guess, ~380-400 is hopeful.

If its VF then 380-400 is realistic
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Old 09-25-2020, 08:48 AM   #19
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I put down 320 on stock injectors on a Mustang don't clown the guy too hard.

340 was probably too big for 1050s but it doesn't matter pumps are cheap.

I'm not sure what you guys get in the newer WRXs for stock turbos, from google it says its an IHI but GDs all got TDs in the WRXs.

If its a TD then 350 is realistic guess, ~380-400 is hopeful.

If its VF then 380-400 is realistic
Im on stock 2014 wrx turbo so vf 52
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Old 09-25-2020, 10:23 AM   #20
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So I ended up snagging a FP blue nee for 600 from my buddy. Im assuming power goes of 330+ hp should be fairly easily attainable now?
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Old 09-25-2020, 10:24 AM   #21
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Quote:
380-400 is hopeful.
LMAO really? 400 hp on a stock turbo? There is no freakign way a stock turbo will ever reach close to 400. I have a HTZ FP Green and 420-450 is maxing it out on a Mustang dyno. A 18g-20g will get you to 380.
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Old 09-25-2020, 05:42 PM   #22
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LMAO really? 400 hp on a stock turbo? There is no freakign way a stock turbo will ever reach close to 400. I have a HTZ FP Green and 420-450 is maxing it out on a Mustang dyno. A 18g-20g will get you to 380.
Would I be good for 340+ with the fp blue with my parts listed?
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:38 PM   #23
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LMAO really? 400 hp on a stock turbo? There is no freakign way a stock turbo will ever reach close to 400. I have a HTZ FP Green and 420-450 is maxing it out on a Mustang dyno. A 18g-20g will get you to 380.
are you on corn or pump?
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Old 09-25-2020, 06:55 PM   #24
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are you on corn or pump?
93 pump. Nearest corn is annhour away
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Old 09-26-2020, 02:28 PM   #25
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LMAO really? 400 hp on a stock turbo? There is no freakign way a stock turbo will ever reach close to 400. I have a HTZ FP Green and 420-450 is maxing it out on a Mustang dyno. A 18g-20g will get you to 380.
Okay watch me give you 450 wheel on E85 with my VF43 when I go get tuned
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