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Old 11-24-2020, 02:51 PM   #126
snake2332
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OK I think I found that it's D11:



...which is the white with red stripe wire:



EDIT: Thanks JSR84. I'll plug my AFR analog + into pin 4 / pink wire and the - into pin 1 white with red stripe, after testing everything with my multimeter to make sure I'm not hooking into 12V or anything stupid, haha!
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Last edited by snake2332; 11-24-2020 at 02:59 PM.
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Old 11-29-2020, 11:57 PM   #127
snake2332
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Oh I just realized I need the TGV receptacle, not the plug. Whoops, $20 mistake. I'm going easy-mode and just getting the pigtail with crimps: https://www.iwireservices.com/produc...eceptacle-2007

I'll take some pics when I do the AFR install. I am going to do TGV delete and port, along with fuel pump (AEM 340) and injectors (ID1050X). Also ditching this GrimmSpeed AOS and got the IAG version 3 AOS on the way (street series), along with phenolic spacers, air pump delete, and 4th cylinder cooling mod. I wish I could afford fuel lines and rails, but man that crap is like $850. After that, I will have to save up for a year or two for major turbo upgrades (EBCS, uppipe with EWG and dump tube, stock location turbo [not sure which yet], and bypass/blowoff valve. I should go speed-density tune at that point so probably need IAT sensor and 4+ bar MAP sensor. And really a FMIC would be in order. So I need like $5k for that stuff).
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Old 01-30-2021, 02:24 PM   #128
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I'm about to do this part of the install and can't remember why I chose the pink wire. The FSB shows both A25 and A26 going to the ECM from the RH TGV. I can't find anywhere that shows what the difference between them is and which one I should hook in to the white analog output of the AEM AFR gauge.

Anyone that's done this and knows, I'd appreciate feedback because I think the AOS is going to be in the way of where I have the iWire harness connected to the AFR gauge wires. So it will be a bit of a pain to rewire it if I'm wrong.

Oh well, I'm going to just do the pink wire, pin 4, A26 on the ECM. This corresponds to the white wire on the iWire harness, which is butted into the white wire from the AEM AFR gauge (analog output).

I'm fairly positive that pin 1 that goes to D11 on the ECM is ground. That wire is white with red stripe and leads to a red wire on the iWire harness, that I butted into the brown wire from the AEM AFR gauge (ground).

I guess I have a 50/50 chance that I chose the right one. I have pictures and will reply again once I test this, but I still have quite a bit of work to do to the car before that happens. I've got new fuel lines to build and the IAG AOS to install, along with a few other things. I hope to get done in a few days.
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Old 01-31-2021, 08:43 PM   #129
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Well I must have guessed wrong. Sitting at idle with AFR gauge showing 14.7, the Cobb AP is wiggin' out, mostly showing 8.5 with flashes to 18 (the min and max values).

I think I can get to the harness without removing stuff. I will try the A25 connection next.

Kind of surprising no one has done this and documented it. Or if they have, I sure haven't found it.

Off topic - I successfully did the following changes to my car:

Mounted JBL amp in trunk
Ran new speaker wire to all new speakers
Added Kilmat to doors and underside of rear deck
Installed new 9" Android HU
Stripped and powder coated 17" BBS wheels for my winters
Applied window trim tint (chrome delete)
Flushed power steering fluid and replaced the o-ring
Replaced gear oil and rear diff with Motul 300
Cleaned MAF sensor
Changed temp sensor from water to oil
Installed AEM AFR gauge
Full air pump delete
DIY TGV delete and powder coat
Installed IAG fuel railes
Installed Cobb 1050x injectors
Created and installed 6AN fuel lines using Torque Solution kit, in series 3-1-4-2 to Tomei FPR
Installed new AEM 340 fuel pump
Installed turbo blanket
Installed new pitch stop mount (spherical FactionFab)
Installed Getadomtune 4th cylinder cooling mod
Installed IAG AOS v3 street series, with PCV diagnosis delete
Partial evap delete (got rid of 2nd solenoid thing)
Uninstalled Perrin lightweight crank pulley and reinstalled OEM one
Replaced spark plugs with 1 step colder
Replaced several gaskets, found that my header-to-uppipe gasket was blown out
Installed block heater
Modified Cobb OTS stage 3 map and applied it. Will be self-tuning.


Poor car was down for a month while I worked on it on the weekends mostly, as time allowed. In the end, no fuel leaks, no coolant leaks, no problems. The only thing that isn't operational is the AFR-to-TGV setup as mentioned in this thread, but I'm confident I'll figure it out.

Last edited by snake2332; 01-31-2021 at 09:44 PM.
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Old 02-02-2021, 02:11 PM   #130
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IT WORKS NOW!

If you refer to my pics on post #126 above, you can see the RH TGV has 2 wires running to the ECM. They are pins 4 and 5, colors PL and WL (pink with blue and white with blue). The pink with blue going to A26 was no good, but the white with blue wire going to A25 was correct.

And yes the D11 ground connection works properly.

The red and black wires that I thought might provide 12V to the TGV motor did not appear to do so, or at least weren't providing any power when my car was in the ON position but not running, so it probably wouldn't work as a good power source for the AFR gauge regardless.

YAY now I can log accurate AFR values and do some street tuning. In the 2 short drives I've taken, it already appears to be better than before. I used to get -6 and -11 feedback knock when backing out of the driveway and just boosting a bit in 2nd gear at lower RPM's. In my 2 short drives, feedback knock has stayed at zero the whole time, and that's with a fully reset ECU with no learning. Definitely a good sign. Next up is some highway cruising with steady throttle input to adjust my MAF scaling so the AFR correction doesn't have to adjust so much. Hoping to keep those values under + - 5%.
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Old 02-02-2021, 02:16 PM   #131
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One further note, I thought the smoothing factor might help reduce the polling rate that the AP shows for this sensor, since it updates like 20 times a second, but no, the smoothing factor is just for smoothing out spikes or sharp changes in values, not the polling rate. This is fine though because I won't be displaying the value on the AP, since duh I have the AEM gauge.

EDIT: The data is definitely spikey, every couple seconds it goes from correct values to +3 briefly. I'm going to keep setting the smoothing factor lower, which increases the amount of smoothing, until the spikiness goes away, if ever. I might contact AEM about this and see what they know about it. I still need to do some WOT pulls but it's raining outside and I just washed the car, so maybe later.

Last edited by snake2332; 02-02-2021 at 06:42 PM.
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Old 02-02-2021, 08:40 PM   #132
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Smoothing factor of 0.01 is decent, but it still makes the AP see a bit higher AFR than the actual AFR gauge. Hopefully this will still be okay for data logging. I might turn up the smoothing factor more, but I wish it didn't do this. When I was using a multimeter on the AFR gauge analog output, it was solid, not jumping around or spiking, at least not enough for the multimeter to show. It just sat at a solid 2.4v or so. Therefore, the analog output is surely fine, but the ECM or something with the TGV is causing little voltage spikes.

As a work-around, when I'm doing WOT pulls and logging data, I will aim my rear dashcam forward or relocate it so I can see the AFR gauge values. It's either that or smooth the data so much that it is really slow to respond, then compare the values to the actual gauge and see how close they are.
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Old 02-03-2021, 12:20 AM   #133
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I think the sensor with 0.01 smoothing factor is still useful. When I finally get a chance to do more logging, I'll have more comparisons, but here is my short trip back from the gas station.

However, the logged value is still higher than what the gauge shows, so perhaps I'll just change the calibration so the values are a little lower and match the actual gauge. Kind of disappointing to have to do this, but it is what it is.

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Old 02-03-2021, 02:43 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post
I think the sensor with 0.01 smoothing factor is still useful. When I finally get a chance to do more logging, I'll have more comparisons, but here is my short trip back from the gas station.

However, the logged value is still higher than what the gauge shows, so perhaps I'll just change the calibration so the values are a little lower and match the actual gauge. Kind of disappointing to have to do this, but it is what it is.

Did you ground to sensor ground? I found there was a 2 percent variance between using sensor ground and chassis ground.
I'm pretty positive that the smoothing factor only affects data logging.

Good call getting ride of the light weight crank pulley!

I just put this together from the Outfront Motorsports Short Block out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bzW8mNtMN891QjJg8

Last edited by JSR84; 02-03-2021 at 03:02 PM.
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Old 02-03-2021, 03:20 PM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
Did you ground to sensor ground? I found there was a 2 percent variance between using sensor ground and chassis ground.
I'm pretty positive that the smoothing factor only affects data logging.

Good call getting ride of the light weight crank pulley!

I just put this together from the Outfront Motorsports Short Block out.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/bzW8mNtMN891QjJg8
Niiiiice setup you have there!

I used the ground wire in the TGV RH harness. The FSM shows it (D11) going to ground, though it doesn't specify what type of ground.

The smoothing factor is visible in the real-time gauge on the AP, but I'm going to change that gauge to something else once I'm happy with the values. When I had smoothing disabled, you can see, both in real time and in the logs, how it would spike +3 or +4 in value every couple seconds. Smoothing this out still causes it to read leaner overall than it should. I might redo my wiring and solder the wires directly instead of use the iWire adapter. And if that doesn't work, I might just avoid using the TGV harness and switch it to the rear O2. I am not very knowledgeable with electrical stuff, so I don't know what could cause voltage spikes. I am 99% sure the AEM gauge itself is not the cause, because I used my multimeter on it earlier and it was a solid value with no spikes.
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Old 02-04-2021, 01:00 PM   #136
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post
Niiiiice setup you have there!

I used the ground wire in the TGV RH harness. The FSM shows it (D11) going to ground, though it doesn't specify what type of ground.

The smoothing factor is visible in the real-time gauge on the AP, but I'm going to change that gauge to something else once I'm happy with the values. When I had smoothing disabled, you can see, both in real time and in the logs, how it would spike +3 or +4 in value every couple seconds. Smoothing this out still causes it to read leaner overall than it should. I might redo my wiring and solder the wires directly instead of use the iWire adapter. And if that doesn't work, I might just avoid using the TGV harness and switch it to the rear O2. I am not very knowledgeable with electrical stuff, so I don't know what could cause voltage spikes. I am 99% sure the AEM gauge itself is not the cause, because I used my multimeter on it earlier and it was a solid value with no spikes.
Interesting, I haven't put as much time into it as you have, but I found when I move the ground over to a sensor ground directly into the ECU, that helped the variance that I was getting between the gauge and the AP, I've also wired it into a relay and directly to the battery. The polling rate is something that I've just come to deal with, when reading logs it doesn't ever really cause issues.
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Old 02-04-2021, 05:04 PM   #137
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Originally Posted by JSR84 View Post
Interesting, I haven't put as much time into it as you have, but I found when I move the ground over to a sensor ground directly into the ECU, that helped the variance that I was getting between the gauge and the AP, I've also wired it into a relay and directly to the battery. The polling rate is something that I've just come to deal with, when reading logs it doesn't ever really cause issues.
I can't really find a sensor ground from the ECU. I was hoping the D11 connection I used was the same thing, but maybe it grounds to the chassis.

I have no issues with the polling rate, just with the false spike in voltage that the smoothing factor is helping with. I think I will just compare current readings of my log with the actual gauge on the dash and see how much it varies, then adjust the calibration in AccessTuner to get it close to accurate. I'll just have to ignore the little smoothed out spikes, which will be fine when doing WOT pulls.
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Old 02-04-2021, 06:36 PM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post
I can't really find a sensor ground from the ECU. I was hoping the D11 connection I used was the same thing, but maybe it grounds to the chassis.

I have no issues with the polling rate, just with the false spike in voltage that the smoothing factor is helping with. I think I will just compare current readings of my log with the actual gauge on the dash and see how much it varies, then adjust the calibration in AccessTuner to get it close to accurate. I'll just have to ignore the little smoothed out spikes, which will be fine when doing WOT pulls.

Check the diagnostic section of the FSM for the ECM pinout. Pin 1 (D11) is connector B137 terminal 11 and should be the sensor signal to the ECU.

Pins 2 and 3 should be ground and 5V supply, respectively. Trace W and V on the previous page to get the connector and terminal numbers to confirm. Pins 4 and 5 are the TGV open and close signals from the ECU.
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Old 02-04-2021, 06:58 PM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kopele View Post
Check the diagnostic section of the FSM for the ECM pinout. Pin 1 (D11) is connector B137 terminal 11 and should be the sensor signal to the ECU.

Pins 2 and 3 should be ground and 5V supply, respectively. Trace W and V on the previous page to get the connector and terminal numbers to confirm. Pins 4 and 5 are the TGV open and close signals from the ECU.
Ah crap, I probably have it all wrong then. The FSM shows pin 1 to D11 and a ground symbol for D11 on the ECM I/O Signal page (page 820).

Pin 2 intersects with coolant temp sensor, MAP sensor, electronic throttle control, and ends up at the knock sensor. It shows color of wire as BL (is that black with blue stripe?) from each of these sensors. Maybe this is the ground.

Pin 3 intersects with TGV LH, secondary air combo valve LH, MAP sensor, then ends up splitting off to the electronic throttle control and to the ECM. These connections all use red wires. Maybe this is the 5V supply.

So perhaps I should connect sensor ground to pin 2 and analog output to pin 1.

I appreciate your help. I really don't get these electrical diagrams, haha!
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Old 02-04-2021, 08:39 PM   #140
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Umm, should the brown wire from the AEM gauge (analog -) but showing 5V when I put the multimeter red probe on it and black probe on chassis ground?

Also, the TGV RH harness shows 5V output from the red pin 3, while pins 4 and 5 going to the ECM show a hair over 1V. I expect those are the open / close status wires like you were saying.

When I get more time, I will unbolt my AOS again (pain in the arse) and change the wiring around. I didn't expect the brown wire from the AEM to show 5V, so that threw me for a loop. I tried to jimmy-rig it just now with some speaker wire but couldn't get a good connection and my AP like lost connection and wouldn't show me anything when I had analog+ going to pin 1 and analog- going to pin 2 (black with blue stripe, which I think is ground).

I'll get there eventually, haha!
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Old 02-04-2021, 09:56 PM   #141
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Good timing in this. Iím just about to do the same thing. Thanks for your detective work. It gives me a leg up.
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Old 02-05-2021, 11:15 AM   #142
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Good timing in this. Iím just about to do the same thing. Thanks for your detective work. It gives me a leg up.
Hope I can help! I managed to yank a wire out of the iWire adapter last night because I was in a hurry, DOH. I should have some final results today as long as my actual job doesn't demand my time all day.

Sidenote (I get off topic a lot): I thought I broke my car last night. Passing a guy on the highway, big backfire, CEL, loss of power, pulled over, "cyl 4 misfire"....I'm picturing pulling the motor and trying to save the block as I open the hood. Ah, it was just the freakin' coil pack connector that somehow came off. PHEW! Put on glove and plugged it back in, all was good. I barely managed to get a -1.4 feedback knock reading when going WOT in 3rd gear at like 2800rpms. No ECU fine knock learning at all. The work I did to my car was worth it, but I kind of wonder what made the biggest difference with knock.
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Old 02-05-2021, 01:10 PM   #143
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Originally Posted by snake2332 View Post
Hope I can help! I managed to yank a wire out of the iWire adapter last night because I was in a hurry, DOH. I should have some final results today as long as my actual job doesn't demand my time all day.

Sidenote (I get off topic a lot): I thought I broke my car last night. Passing a guy on the highway, big backfire, CEL, loss of power, pulled over, "cyl 4 misfire"....I'm picturing pulling the motor and trying to save the block as I open the hood. Ah, it was just the freakin' coil pack connector that somehow came off. PHEW! Put on glove and plugged it back in, all was good. I barely managed to get a -1.4 feedback knock reading when going WOT in 3rd gear at like 2800rpms. No ECU fine knock learning at all. The work I did to my car was worth it, but I kind of wonder what made the biggest difference with knock.
Ha! I did the exact same thing last year, I pulled the code and saw Cylinder 2 misfire and I knew immediately, I had been driving around for 3 years with the clip broken on that cylinder and could never remember to order a replacement. While I was on the side of the road reseating the clip I ordered one. Super easy to swap them out.
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Old 02-05-2021, 01:51 PM   #144
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Ha! I did the exact same thing last year, I pulled the code and saw Cylinder 2 misfire and I knew immediately, I had been driving around for 3 years with the clip broken on that cylinder and could never remember to order a replacement. While I was on the side of the road reseating the clip I ordered one. Super easy to swap them out.
I'd better double check all of mine and make sure they are fully clipped in, cuz that scared me.
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Old 02-05-2021, 04:08 PM   #145
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OK FOR REAL GOT IT THIS TIME

Ground: Pin 1, white with red stripe, goes to D11, which on page 820 in the FSM shows ground. This I had correct already. The AEM white wire for analog- goes here.

Sensor signal: Pin 2, black with blue stripe, goes to various other sensors and the ECM. The AEM brown wire for analog+ goes here.

Pin 3, red wire, is 5V power supply to various stuff.

Pins 4 and 5 are for the ECM to communicate to the TGV.

I have it temporarily connected right now and the Cobb AP with no smoothing factor shows the exact same value as the AEM gauge. SUCCESS! Now to permanently wire it in...again....
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Old 02-05-2021, 04:53 PM   #146
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Old 02-06-2021, 12:49 AM   #147
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120mph limit on the Car Launcher Pro speedo...WEAK
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