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Old 12-13-2005, 04:20 PM   #401
Lachlan
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Yeah it's a bit of a chore, but I guess it depends how often you go through unmanned gates. I don't do it too much, so it's not much of a hassle (the base gate is manned so it's pretty simple). I haven't tried fast food yet, but the exit gate at the airport was similar (man in a booth) and I had to stretch a bit, but it was doable.

There are a couple of other benefits to RHD, in that you can get quick steering racks and dash swaps for cheap here since most people don't want them.
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Old 12-13-2005, 05:58 PM   #402
swapstar
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you get used to it after a while, i actually prefer it in traffic :P no more blindside to wrry about
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Old 12-13-2005, 08:46 PM   #403
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I have to say, backing through a drive through would certainly have a comedy effect.
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Old 12-30-2005, 02:32 PM   #404
Lachlan
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Does anybody have efficiency curves for the VF-23? I've decided to start with just an EBC instead of stand-alone for now, and the curves would help to determine where I should be boosting.
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:25 PM   #405
Hurley 2.5 WRS
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id say get a wide band first. remember, we are at a lower octane rating here. dont want to blow anything up right?
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Old 01-08-2006, 01:10 AM   #406
Lachlan
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My car is closer to being normal now! Worked all day and got the map lights and dome light to work, the high beams to work, and fixed the horn so as not to drain 3.8A when the car is off! I also wired up my IC water spray button--it's not automatic or anything, but if I push it it stays on until I push it again, so it's a step up from the rear wiper fluid turner dealy.
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:16 PM   #407
WRBlue2002WRX
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Subscribe, any update on your car Lachlan?

-Brian
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Old 01-23-2006, 06:19 PM   #408
Lachlan
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No updates yet. I'm waiting for my blitz dsbc which may never get here. Here are some exterior pics.








Last edited by Lachlan; 01-23-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:45 PM   #409
WRBlue2002WRX
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Looks sweet. I wish I could have found a 2.5 before I bought my car, she is awesome looking! Keep it up!

-Brian
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Old 01-24-2006, 07:50 PM   #410
Lachlan
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There seem to be two throttle-related problems that have developed. One is a whistle--or howl, that seems to come up at the same time that the mechanical boost gauge rattles. It's easily remedied by changing the throttle position, but it comes back periodically. The second problem developed last week out of nowhere. At first I thought it was a fuel problem because it started jerking when I was going up a hill like I was out of fuel. But then I filled up and it continues to happen, though not to that extreme. It seems to happen in any gear--oil, water and boost are normal--it's just when I get to a certain throttle position it feels like the power drops out. It's also remedied just by changing the throttle position. :shrug:
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:35 PM   #411
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Try regapping your spark plugs.
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:38 PM   #412
Lachlan
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NOOOO! Nobody likes to do spark plugs on a phase 1!
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:43 PM   #413
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IBsomeonesays"hondatypeRrrrr"notknowingsubaruhisto ry

...I awiat the day I can feel teh power of a swap...
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Old 01-24-2006, 09:47 PM   #414
Lachlan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tooocool49723
IBsomeonesays"hondatypeRrrrr"notknowingsubaruhisto ry
Been there...
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Old 01-24-2006, 11:48 PM   #415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan


<-- always last to know.
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Old 01-24-2006, 11:53 PM   #416
Lachlan
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Oh, and my Blitz Dual SBC is officially lost/stolen in/by the mail. It was shipped off on the 30th of December, hasn't been seen since. The guy will refund my money, but I doubt I'll find one for $100 again
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:51 AM   #417
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Ouch Sorry to hear that, hope you can find another one for a decent price.
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Old 01-25-2006, 10:19 AM   #418
Lachlan
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Probably not...<sigh> I guess now I'll just run on the stock unit and save up for a power FC
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Old 01-25-2006, 01:16 PM   #419
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
OK, I noticed that the intercooler/recirc valve setup is very different from the newer models. It actually looks like the recirc valve is built into the manifold! Do I have any options for aftermarket intercoolers?
Having a V3 setup in my car I can relate.

Only ARC & MRT make direct upgrade replacements. USDM I/C's won't fit without extensive modification. Sure the TB/turbo piping will line up and fabing mounts isn't an issue, but there is no room for that BOV fitment on a V3 motor due to 'stuff' that is directly in the way. Could space the IC further off the TB by at least 2", but then you create other issues. This is from trying it myself with the smalled BOV out there for a USDM I/C.

As you can guess ARC is expensive $1400 special order and MRT is hard to source (not very many US suppliers left).

My I/C is likely worse than yours. It is on the top of my list of things to replace. It almost seems now that a custom one from Spearco or some other make would be more reasonable even if on had to fabricate some addtional pieces. FMIC may be eaiser to source, but IMHO aren't the way to go.

It's up to you though.

As for the IM flaking, mine practically has no red left on it, still drives fine. I'm in no rush to fix it as the work and down time will hardly be worth it.

Good luck on the swap, you'll enjoy it.
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Old 01-25-2006, 11:37 PM   #420
Lachlan
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I pulled the plugs this evening and this is how they look. The electrodes look clean and fine. The gaps are pretty even at .025. The only thing I noticed is that second spark plug has a black ring around it and black on the contact. It was a little easier to pull than the others, making me think maybe it backed out?

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Old 01-26-2006, 03:29 PM   #421
WRBlue2002WRX
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That looks like oil doesn't it? Sorry to hear things aren't working out as expected, keep fighting I am will to bet it is worth it!

-Brian
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Old 01-26-2006, 05:20 PM   #422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lachlan
NOOOO! Nobody likes to do spark plugs on a phase 1!

LMAO!!

So glad my mom did not take a picture of me trying to remove the damn plugs and wires.

lol... to get the picture how nuts I looked out on the street, I climbed on the engine and was on my knees and I was tugging at the wires.

lol SOHC no climing on the engine required
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Old 01-28-2006, 12:44 PM   #423
Lachlan
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Hey, my sbc actually came (1 month later)! So now I have to figure out what boost to put on the ole VF23 with 91 octane gas, BKR7E plugs, and 4000 feet altitude. Stock it seems to spike to about 19 psi (1.31 bar) even though I think it's only supposed to go up to about 800mmHg (1.07 bar). Hopefully I'll be getting a knock link soon to help with the tuning.
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Old 03-12-2006, 11:58 AM   #424
Lachlan
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I finally got the 99 Subaru alarm wired up. There are nine wires that go to the harness; on the 99 there's a connector but on the version three there is none. I cut the connector out of the RS harness and used the harness side to solder wires to, so those are the colors I'll be referring to. I wired it so that both doors open on the first push.

This table lists the color, the function (according to the documentation) then lists voltage normally/voltage upon pushing "lock"/voltage upon pushing "unlock"/continuity to ground normally/continuity to ground upon pushing "lock"/continuity to ground upon pushing "unlock."

blue/white Driver lock/unlock motor 0/0/12/n/n/y
blue/green all doors/hatch lock 0/0/0/n/y/n
black ground
yellow/red pax doors/hatch unlock (I didn't use) 0/0/0/n/n/n
red/green driver door lock/unlock switch (I didn't use) 0/0/0/n/n/n
white/black constant +12V
green/black Ignition-switched +12V
white ??? (I didn't use) 0/0/0/n/n/n
white/yellow parking lights 0/12/12/n/y/y
yellow dome light 0/4.4/0/n/n/y (stays connected to ground about 2 minutes, or until "lock" is hit)

Ground, +12, and +12 Ignition are fairly stright forward. The blue/green wire will be used to lock and the blue/white wire will be used to unlock. As seen above when you hit "lock" the blue/green wire switches to ground. This is good because the way the door switch works is by switching the blue/green wire in the door from power to ground. You can connect the blue/green wire from the alarm harness directly to this wire as it comes out of the driver's door (I used a radioshack relay, but in retrospect I don't see why you couldn't do a direct connection).
The blue/whie wire switches to +12V, which is the opposite behavior from what you want for unlocking (switching to ground). For this one I got a 1A relay from radioshack. The coil is connected to the blue/white wire from the alarm harness and ground. The switch connects ground to a free wire. Connect the free wire to the yellow wire coming out of the door, which goes to ground when the "unlock" button is hit in the door.
The dome light wire will turn on the dome light for a couple of minutes when "unlock" is hit on the remote. I forget if this is supposed to happen on all settings or just on the "door" setting on the dome light. (obviously turning it on when it's already "on" would be of no benefit but I guess turning it on when the light is set to "off" is debatable). Since my domelight, as wired, wouldn't work in the first place, I ghetto rigged it with a wire from the "door" setting across the roof, down the b pillar, and to the "door open" switch by the door opening. This wire grounds when the door is open. By connecting the yellow dome wire to this wire (running it along the floorboard with the rest of the wires that head back) allows the alarm unit to turn on the dome light (switch it to ground) but this only works when the dome is set to "door", not "off." If you want to set it to go on even when the dome light is switched to "off," you would need to run a wire all the way up to the dome light itself and connect the yellow wire from the alarm harness to the white wire up there.
Edit: I found out today that if you hook it up that way the alarm will ground the door switch even when the door is closed. So if you do it my way you need to put in a rectifier so that current won't flow from the door switch to the alarm ground or dome light.
The white/yellow wire should obviously be connected to power for the parking lights, or any other light you want to blink when you push either button. I'm not entirely sure where to connect this (I haven't done it yet) but I'm assuming you could either connect it to the hazard button to blink the turn signals or just run a wire directly into the engine bay to connect to whatever lights you want to blink.

The alarm also connects to a vibration sensor, an ignition interrupt, the siren, and the little red blinking butting, but these connections are pretty self explanatory.

Last edited by Lachlan; 03-13-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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