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View Poll Results: Sun Auto Cyber Speed Hyper Voltage System
BS V : Better Stabilization of Voltage 5 45.45%
BS : What it means 6 54.55%
Voters: 11. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 04-04-2005, 06:19 PM   #1
engineerx
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Default Sun Auto Hyper Voltage System:WATT or WHAT

No searchie thingie !

Well, they claim hp gains at high rpms.... this could in fact be true since Subaru designed such a mediocre electrical system into the WRX's

$225 seems rather steep for this little box.... would love to see What's Inside : a RLC circuit perhaps.. haha maybe just a couple of capacitors, resistors and some power transistors perhaps.... maybe $8.99 worth of electronic components inside an expensive box !

Has anyone used it? Noticed any improvement?
Reason: I'm looking to improve the electical system. I just got a Hydra and the STi drops voltage down to high 10's low 11's and the Hydra does not like that. I already placed an order for the H.O. Alternator (140A) and got an Optima Yellow Top.

http://store.racinglab.com/sunhyvosygt.html

http://sunautomobile.com/pro_cyberspeed.htm
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Last edited by engineerx; 04-05-2005 at 02:48 AM.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:23 PM   #2
Mulder
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This is a waste of money. Your car already has a pretty good voltage regulator/stabilizer, it's called a battery. In addition there is the regulator in the alternator. With a properly functioning electrical system no extra gizmos are needed.
Apparently though your electrical system has some issues, you should not be seeing voltages that low. Under what conditions are you seeing those voltages? The only time it should drop as low as 10V is during engine cranking, at all other times with the engine running it should be at 13.5-14.5V. Worst case, if you max out the alternator at idle with a lot of things turned on, you might see it dip to battery voltage but no lower.
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Old 04-05-2005, 02:26 AM   #3
engineerx
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it was droping down to 10.4V during cranking, then barely 12+V
The Hydra Standalone EMS acts up when it sees those low voltages and it will not start the car below ~10.8V , the stock ECU works fine - The Hydra has 3 processors so it power hungry...
Hopefully the new battery and the HO alternator will suffice
Mulder, thanks for the input and say hello to agent Scully
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Old 04-05-2005, 02:44 AM   #4
keirnna
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I have one, and the car seemed to idle a little better. The thing is you can buy the exact same thing on ebay for about $15. I have the Sun Hyper Votage, and Hyper Ground and they seem to do a little for the car. Not $200 worth, but if you buy them off of ebay for $30 it is well worth it.
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Old 04-05-2005, 02:49 AM   #5
engineerx
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Yep - I think i'll just get the grounding cables from eBay
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Old 04-05-2005, 07:33 AM   #6
Mulder
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You can make your own grounding cables for a few $ in parts without bothering with Ebay. For all the difference it's going to make you just can add a couple of wires, you don't need a bunch of them running all over the engine bay (unless you want the bling factor).
You can also upgrade the main ground cables between the battery, chassis, and engine block along with the alternator output cable (known as the "big 3"), this will improve the electrical system performance even with the stock battery and alternator.
If you're only seeing 12V with the car running your alternator may not be working. It's up to you if you want to buy a high output alternator, but you would probably be fine with a properly working stock one. As long as your car is still under warranty (less than 36K) you should be able to get this fixed at a dealer.
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Old 04-05-2005, 11:59 AM   #7
keirnna
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Well you could spend a while making your own grouding kit, or you could spend $15 on Ebay! It is not worth my time to make one when I can get one that looks better for that cheap.
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Old 04-05-2005, 12:12 PM   #8
engineerx
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Well - 2 viable options then.
I may jus have to go w/ the cheap eBay cables. You're right, I don't think the dfference in electrical transmission between the $100 cables and the $15 cables is all that much - if any!
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Old 04-05-2005, 01:55 PM   #9
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I have to agree with Mulder - if you are seeing 12V while the car is idling, something is wrong with the alt. You should see at least 13-14.1V while the car is running. If you aren't, you have a falty battery, cables or alt.
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Old 04-06-2005, 01:24 AM   #10
engineerx
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I got a yellow top - gonna install it this weekend and check voltages with the Hydra Nemesis tuing software "online" (shows voltage seen at ECU)
If still low - then time to visit dealer for an Alternator - problem is ... the car starts fine with stock ECU , I take it I can check for voltages with a multimeter anywhere in the car? like radio harness?
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:38 AM   #11
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You should check the voltage with a meter at the battery terminals. If it's low there you definitely have problems. It would be best to take it in now if there is indeed a problem, before you change out any parts in the electrical system. If you show up at the dealer with a different battery and/or alternator your warranty claim could be denied because you modified the electrical system.
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Old 04-06-2005, 07:47 AM   #12
PARANOID56
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hey mulder, when upgrading the big three, can you just make a new wire from the alt pos to the battery pos? or do you have to follow the same path the stock one takes?
Shane
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Old 04-06-2005, 09:32 AM   #13
Mulder
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The factory alternator cable goes into the fuse box where it connects to the electrical system through one of the main fuses. If you simply bypass this by going directly from the alternator to the battery there will be no protection for the alternator output. I suppose you could then add an inline fuse of appropriate value, but IMO why reinvent what's already there?
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Old 04-06-2005, 10:28 AM   #14
offset
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Hey engineerx, check out my post in the official Hydra thread and see what you think about what I heard...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8&postcount=57

(for the full thread)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?p=9422218

offset
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Old 04-07-2005, 12:22 AM   #15
engineerx
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Quote:
Originally Posted by offset
Hey engineerx, check out my post in the official Hydra thread and see what you think about what I heard...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...8&postcount=57

(for the full thread)
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?p=9422218

offset
Ah! - that's news....
It was my car they used to test & find the problem , Andrew lew to LA to pick it up
I just posted something on that thread - hope they fix the problem!
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Old 04-08-2005, 11:32 AM   #16
PARANOID56
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only to have a larger gauge wire.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mulder
The factory alternator cable goes into the fuse box where it connects to the electrical system through one of the main fuses. If you simply bypass this by going directly from the alternator to the battery there will be no protection for the alternator output. I suppose you could then add an inline fuse of appropriate value, but IMO why reinvent what's already there?
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