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Old 05-03-2018, 05:58 PM   #1
joea99
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Default 97 legacy gt rear wheel locks when nuts tight

97 Legacy GT. Both rear backing plates and bearings replaced, as well as parking brakes and hardware.

This is continuation of a long sad tale, this being the second set of bearings installed.

The short story is, with new bearings in and everything assembled, both wheels rotate smoothly. So far, so good.

But, when the driver side (left rear) lug nuts are tightened, the wheel cannot be rotated by hands alone. This was not expected and was discovered "on the road".

So, turns out it looks like someone bent the backing plate when they hosed up the original bearing replacement. Sadly, I did not notice that when I took over the bearing install and used proper tools.

I have attempted to "un bent" the backing plate, on the car, without success. I was going to just start grinding a few places where there might be binding, but cannot seem to determine where it is happening.

Even went so far as to spray paint the rotor, install it with nuts tightened snug, using a breaker bar to rotate the hub an 1/8 turn back and forth, to scrape the paint away, where it was rubbing.

Oddly, I cannot see any paint worn away.

I guess my only way out is to remove the hub entirely and try to un distort it on a press. Failing that, a new or salvage plate.

One question is, how likely is it, given proper care taken, that pressing the spindle out and back in, that the new bearing (and seals) will still be fine?

Better, any suggestions on salvaging the backing plate, as is?
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Old 05-04-2018, 07:36 AM   #2
Elbert Bass
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You will have to replace the backing plate. Seen it many times - most recently one of my co-workers bent one on an '04 Forester using a press instead of our on-car installer and warped crap out of the backing plate. He bent it inwards creating too big an air gap on the wheel speed sensor. That makes ABS do funny thing...

You can remove and reinstall the hub -very carefully. You will need to keep everything very clean, you will need to remove the bearing race from the hub without damaging the race so you can put the race back in the bearing and install the outer seal. You may need to remove the inner seal(s) to support the inside race when assembling. If you have access use an on-car bearing installer so you don't bend the new plate. If using a press NEVER try to support the knuckle by the backing plate.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:26 AM   #3
joea99
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When I installed the bearing, I did use bits and pieces from a bearing installer kit, so as not to put pressure on the plate. But, damage was already done, apparently.

So, you think there is little chance of bending the plate back to a usable state? ABS is a lost cause on this car anyway, so not worried about that.
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Old 05-04-2018, 08:41 AM   #4
Samurai Jack
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... or, just remove the backing plate entirely and be done with it.
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Old 05-04-2018, 09:10 AM   #5
joea99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
... or, just remove the backing plate entirely and be done with it.
And where would I mount the parking brake components? In NY PB must be functional to legally pass inspection.
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Old 05-04-2018, 10:38 AM   #6
Samurai Jack
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Oh yeah, that's right, we're talking REAR backing plates not the front.

Looks like you are going to have to do what Elbert said, as much of a PITA as it's going to be.

I suppose you * could * get creative and try banging the place back into shape with a 5lb hand sledge, but you will probably find it will be a lost cause. If it's on the car, then the plate is held in place and you can try to reshape it, and throw the wheel on and check clearance, and repeat as necessary.
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Old 05-06-2018, 05:23 PM   #7
Elbert Bass
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Oh yeah, that's right, we're talking REAR backing plates not the front.

Looks like you are going to have to do what Elbert said, as much of a PITA as it's going to be.

I suppose you * could * get creative and try banging the place back into shape with a 5lb hand sledge, but you will probably find it will be a lost cause. If it's on the car, then the plate is held in place and you can try to reshape it, and throw the wheel on and check clearance, and repeat as necessary.
Might work if he doesn't have ABS - otherwise he may change the sensor air gap and get that "4 MPH buzz"
The other thing I see is creeping rust. It gets in the weld between the dust guard and back plate as well as the park brake shoe support pads and EVERYTHING swells up/out.
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