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Old 03-27-2018, 05:25 PM   #1526
Subie585
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Member#: 483913
Join Date: Mar 2018
Default Little stuck

I have a 1999 subaru sus ..just did a harness swap from a 98 outback sport..only thing is that the wires of the sending unit under the rear seat are differnt..i cut the sus harness part out to rewire the 98 on but the sus has 7 wires..black/red. green/black.red/lightblu.brown/yellow.yellow/lightblu/brown/black.red/yellow...what are there meaning
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Old 04-23-2018, 12:35 PM   #1527
vfeno
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Member#: 365813
Join Date: Aug 2013
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Bay Area
Vehicle:
2001 2.5RS
BRP

Default P0420 fixes with new plugs and wires

Adding in case this is of help to anyone:
P0420 - Cat. below efficiency threshold: Bank 1
2000 2.5rs 140k mi
Exhaust, intake etc all stock

Problem was intermittent and cel would cycle off and on for about 20k miles. Finally I replaced the plugs and wires and hey no more cel. I had a valve cover leak that was allowing small amounts of oil onto the wire boots so that may have had something to do with it.

Bottom line - Even though the code says that itís the cat, chances are it is really something upstream. Check intake, fuel and ignition systems for anything throwing your mixture off.
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Old 04-27-2018, 01:37 AM   #1528
Fried.potato13
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Default CEL turns on and off (help please)

I have a 2016 WRX with about 32000 miles on it, I was at a stop sign and the CEL turned on. The car wouldn't accelerate, so I pulled over to the side, restarted it, and everything was back to normal.

I went to an auto shop to see if they can find any codes stored, they couldn't find anything, and the car still runs smoothly. I let my grandpa (whose a mechanic) look at it, he didn't find anything wrong with it.

Could it be that I didnt let the engine warm up enough? Even though I didnt think it was that cold, I just thought it was weird that even happened.

Any ideas? Or am I just kind of worrying over nothing?

Thanks!
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Old 04-30-2018, 12:46 AM   #1529
UrFuct
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Default P2097

2008 Impreza wrx
135,000km
Fuel trim too rich post catalyst bank 1

HI everyone I had just recently bought this car and the previous owner installed a turbo back and a CAI without a tune. My traction control light is on, my cruise control is flashing and obviously the CEL. What I want to know is will this problem fix itself once I get a accessport and flash a stage 2 tune? The car feels weak, does this mean it's in limp mode? How long can I drive it in limp mode before parts start breaking? Please help!
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Old 06-02-2018, 12:55 PM   #1530
Big White Scooby
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Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: British Columbia
Vehicle:
04 Impreza

Subaru Stars CEL P1443 Solved

Hello All,

I figured I would share this with my fellow Impreza Owners as I couldn't find any solid information on this site relating to my specific problem.

Car - 2004 2.5TS SOHC Manual Transmission

CEL P1443 - Relates to the EVAP Emissions. (Nothing specific)

Symptoms - None, until you want to refill the fuel tank. The tank would accept fuel fine (as a sign nothing is wrong with the filler neck, or vent valve). But once you are done filling, hop back into our car and turn it over, it really struggles. Eventually does fire after about 10-15 cranks and will stall out unless you feather the accelerator. Idles really rough for about 45 to 60 seconds, then runs as normal.

I started diagnosing this problem at what I considered to be the start.

Under the passenger rear bumper next to the wheel lies the charcoal canister. There is a vent valve which allows air/gas vapour to enter the charcoal canister where is it to be stored until needed. This vent is a NO (normally open) solenoid so once the 2 vent hoses are removed, with the electrical connector still attached, connect the green bridge wire up and under the steering wheel. This puts the car into a full solenoid/contact cycle every 5 or 6 seconds. Simply blow through one end and if the pressure doesn't change, the valve is bad. You can also feel the solenoid clicking as it is engaged and disengaged.

This wasn't my issue. Next I removed the charcoal canister and tipped it upside down and gave it a shake. Little bits of charcoal were falling out. BAD SIGN. Went to the nearest scrap yard and was able to find a canister that was still in good shape hoping this was the only issue. It wasn't. It was only the cause of the CEL being set off.

Next step down the line was the purge/drain solenoid, which is how the ECU regulates the air/gas vapour into the intake manifold. This was tough to find. After doing some research to see where this elusive solenoid would be located as I have searched for hours trying to find this. I found out that it is actually mounted right onto the intake manifold. So I found the vacuum line coming out of the intake and followed it. Eventually found it located under the passenger side of the intake with two small hoses running to it. I was able to remove it without needing to remove anything else which is always a plus.

This valve is supposed to be a NC (normally closed) valve, which when I blew through the line, I had no resistance. Checked the electrical and it was all good so I knew this valve probably had a piece of charcoal travel through the vac lines and clog it up. Once this valve was replaced, car would fill and kick back on very nicely

Apologize about the long post but I figured I would explain my procedure incase there is anyone, like myself, struggles diagnosing small problems every now and then!

Subaru Love
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:20 PM   #1531
mindykid
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Member#: 486807
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ImprezedRS View Post
Thanks outback2.5HO, yeah I doubt that Subaru would fix it, all I wanted was the black harness put back on, the one that is missing. As far as getting the code pulled I have a friend that works for a Toyota dealership that is going to do that tonight. I have never done the scanning before so I didn't know about those black and green connectors but I did know about the OBDII port though. Yeah if it is the system that is causing this then the system will go before I will change the battery. I will never put in a hevy Optima battery. I like my lightweight battery, 13.5 pds compared to the stock I think was about 38 pds. I saved as much weight as I would with a carbon fiber hood.

Well I will post the results tonight of what my code is.
Bump bump
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Old 06-04-2018, 07:20 PM   #1532
mindykid
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Member#: 486807
Join Date: Jun 2018
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big White Scooby View Post
Hello All,

I figured I would share this with my fellow Impreza Owners as I couldn't find any solid information on this site relating to my specific problem.

Car - 2004 2.5TS SOHC Manual Transmission

CEL P1443 - Relates to the EVAP Emissions. (Nothing specific)

Symptoms - None, until you want to refill the fuel tank. The tank would accept fuel fine (as a sign nothing is wrong with the filler neck, or vent valve). But once you are done filling, hop back into our car and turn it over, it really struggles. Eventually does fire after about 10-15 cranks and will stall out unless you feather the accelerator. Idles really rough for about 45 to 60 seconds, then runs as normal.

I started diagnosing this problem at what I considered to be the start.

Under the passenger rear bumper next to the wheel lies the charcoal canister. There is a vent valve which allows air/gas vapour to enter the charcoal canister where is it to be stored until needed. This vent is a NO (normally open) solenoid so once the 2 vent hoses are removed, with the electrical connector still attached, connect the green bridge wire up and under the steering wheel. This puts the car into a full solenoid/contact cycle every 5 or 6 seconds. Simply blow through one end and if the pressure doesn't change, the valve is bad. You can also feel the solenoid clicking as it is engaged and disengaged.

This wasn't my issue. Next I removed the charcoal canister and tipped it upside down and gave it a shake. Little bits of charcoal were falling out. BAD SIGN. Went to the nearest scrap yard and was able to find a canister that was still in good shape hoping this was the only issue. It wasn't. It was only the cause of the CEL being set off.

Next step down the line was the purge/drain solenoid, which is how the ECU regulates the air/gas vapour into the intake manifold. This was tough to find. After doing some research to see where this elusive solenoid would be located as I have searched for hours trying to find this. I found out that it is actually mounted right onto the intake manifold. So I found the vacuum line coming out of the intake and followed it. Eventually found it located under the passenger side of the intake with two small hoses running to it. I was able to remove it without needing to remove anything else which is always a plus.

This valve is supposed to be a NC (normally closed) valve, which when I blew through the line, I had no resistance. Checked the electrical and it was all good so I knew this valve probably had a piece of charcoal travel through the vac lines and clog it up. Once this valve was replaced, car would fill and kick back on very nicely

Apologize about the long post but I figured I would explain my procedure incase there is anyone, like myself, struggles diagnosing small problems every now and then!

Subaru Love
Having similar problems
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Old 06-06-2018, 01:03 PM   #1533
subaru2010
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: USA
Vehicle:
2010 Impreza 2.5

Default

2010 Subaru Impreza 2.5 Premium
120K miles
CEL cylinder misfire 1.

Had water pump/timing belt done at 100K but shop said don't need new spark plugs. They were wrong. I did need new spark plugs, and spark plug wires. Cylinder 1 well had oil, and the spark plug wire was ripped where you 'pull' out. I replaced both the plugs and the wires for all four and cylinders and CEL went away. I also did the ECU reset by following a youtube video and instructions someone posted.

However, I had an oil leak that was apparently from the rear oil port into the headgasket behind the engine. That set me back some money and time which now is fixed. Then I had low MPG, and engine was loud, and something was rattling. I changed engine air filter, ran REDLINE fuel cleaner $16, and after 2 times at the pump I'm back to 28mpg with mostly highway.

The rattling sounds like exhaust, which was not there prior to the shops work. I guess they didn't tighten it properly?
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Old 06-06-2018, 02:23 PM   #1534
MoneyMikeWRX
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Member#: 325389
Join Date: Jul 2012
Default 2011 Wrx P0172

My WRX is stock except for Cob AP.
104,9xx miles
2 days ago I had a loose cap light, tightened cap (it was indeed very loose) and cleared the code. Yesterday I got the P0172 bank one rich code. I can feel a hesitation and pretty solid miss. I haven't been for the 105K service yet but did have the 90K done by Harvey. I seen a similar thread about an older wrx but never seen the solution. This engine has never had an issue and I bought it new. Is it simply going to be a fuel injector swap or is this a symptom caused by a myriad of possible causes? Someone please help.
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:41 PM   #1535
MoneyMikeWRX
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Member#: 325389
Join Date: Jul 2012
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MoneyMikeWRX View Post
My WRX is stock except for Cob AP.
104,9xx miles
2 days ago I had a loose cap light, tightened cap (it was indeed very loose) and cleared the code. Yesterday I got the P0172 bank one rich code. I can feel a hesitation and pretty solid miss. I haven't been for the 105K service yet but did have the 90K done by Harvey. I seen a similar thread about an older wrx but never seen the solution. This engine has never had an issue and I bought it new. Is it simply going to be a fuel injector swap or is this a symptom caused by a myriad of possible causes? Someone please help.
UPDATE: Pulling the small hose off of my diverter valve picks up the rpm to what seems normal. Is there a chance that my PCV valve is allowing blow-by to blow into the diverter or recirculation valve and causing a restriction of airflow?
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Old 06-14-2018, 05:06 PM   #1536
binlogic01
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Member#: 487217
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: San Francisco
Vehicle:
2005 Baja Turbo
Blue

Default

Dreaded P0302 & P0304 misfire on cylinder 2 & 4.

Currently working on all kinds of possible fixes, but will create a thread about it with the logs I've taken so far very soon.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:42 PM   #1537
Big White Scooby
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Member#: 470625
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: British Columbia
Vehicle:
04 Impreza

Default

This sounds like an electrical issue to me. Bad wiring somewhere.
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Old 06-15-2018, 01:44 PM   #1538
Big White Scooby
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Member#: 470625
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: British Columbia
Vehicle:
04 Impreza

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fried.potato13 View Post
I have a 2016 WRX with about 32000 miles on it, I was at a stop sign and the CEL turned on. The car wouldn't accelerate, so I pulled over to the side, restarted it, and everything was back to normal.

I went to an auto shop to see if they can find any codes stored, they couldn't find anything, and the car still runs smoothly. I let my grandpa (whose a mechanic) look at it, he didn't find anything wrong with it.

Could it be that I didnt let the engine warm up enough? Even though I didnt think it was that cold, I just thought it was weird that even happened.

Any ideas? Or am I just kind of worrying over nothing?

Thanks!
This sounds like an electrical issue to me.
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Old 07-07-2018, 09:40 PM   #1539
aswresm
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Member#: 482455
Join Date: Feb 2018
Default P2088 2012 Impreza Limited

I'm having trouble finiding the location for the Camshaft position actuator bank 1 that triggered the P2088 CEL on my 2012 Subaru Impreza. If anyone could guide me please to where is that sensor located. Also, would a bad Catalytic converter trigger that code?..your input would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-11-2018, 02:52 PM   #1540
turbinejunkie
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Member#: 260265
Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
07 Impreza 2.5i
Black

Default 05 Legacy GT 5AT

Hello fellow Subaru owners,

I have a 05 5AT LGT Wagon, 142k miles. No mods other than bigger Anti Roll bars. Ever since I got the car 3.5 years ago, it intermittently threw P0302 cylinder misfire on #2. It would go away within a few days and not come back for months just to repeat. I do smell gas on start up which goes away, so I thought it was the injector.

This year, it has been happening more frequently. I have done following,

1. New plugs. NGK iridium. Gapped at 0.028"
2. Swapped injector with # 1 cylinder
3. Swapped coil with # 4 cylinder
4. Cleaned MAF sensor
5. Checked vacuum leaks
6. Compression test (cold)
#1 125 psi
#2 115 psi
#3 125 psi
#4 122 psi

7. Timing Belt Check: It was off one tooth.
Replaced timing belt water pump and all idlers and tensioner with Aisin Kit

8. Top end cleaning after timing belt change to clean any carbon.

So far, all steps, the code comes back as P0302.

Compression #'s are not great but its an old car and I did the test cold. No obvious culprits other than slightly low on #2.

I am thinking this is either ringland or valve clearance. Ringland can be ruled out as I DONOT have an oil consumption issue.

Any opinions will be appreciated !

Last edited by turbinejunkie; 07-12-2018 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 07-12-2018, 09:30 PM   #1541
aswresm
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Member#: 482455
Join Date: Feb 2018
Default please help

I'm having trouble finiding the location for the Camshaft position actuator bank 1 that triggered the P2088 CEL on my 2012 Subaru Impreza. If anyone could guide me please to where is that sensor located. Also, would a bad Catalytic converter trigger that code?..your input would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 07-16-2018, 02:58 AM   #1542
speedracerx9
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Member#: 55493
Join Date: Feb 2004
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: Schaumburg IL
Vehicle:
2006 WRX
Black

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by turbinejunkie View Post
Hello fellow Subaru owners,

I have a 05 5AT LGT Wagon, 142k miles. No mods other than bigger Anti Roll bars. Ever since I got the car 3.5 years ago, it intermittently threw P0302 cylinder misfire on #2. It would go away within a few days and not come back for months just to repeat. I do smell gas on start up which goes away, so I thought it was the injector.

This year, it has been happening more frequently. I have done following,

1. New plugs. NGK iridium. Gapped at 0.028"
2. Swapped injector with # 1 cylinder
3. Swapped coil with # 4 cylinder
4. Cleaned MAF sensor
5. Checked vacuum leaks
6. Compression test (cold)
#1 125 psi
#2 115 psi
#3 125 psi
#4 122 psi

7. Timing Belt Check: It was off one tooth.
Replaced timing belt water pump and all idlers and tensioner with Aisin Kit

8. Top end cleaning after timing belt change to clean any carbon.

So far, all steps, the code comes back as P0302.

Compression #'s are not great but its an old car and I did the test cold. No obvious culprits other than slightly low on #2.

I am thinking this is either ringland or valve clearance. Ringland can be ruled out as I DONOT have an oil consumption issue.

Any opinions will be appreciated !
I would run a leak down test. It gives you a more accurate representation of the cylinder pressures. Compression is a good start but leak down will confirm if the rings are toast. Good luck.
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Old 07-16-2018, 06:10 PM   #1543
turbinejunkie
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Vehicle:
07 Impreza 2.5i
Black

Default

Will update once I do. Thanks
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Old 08-17-2018, 01:02 PM   #1544
mini-minivan
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Member#: 490289
Join Date: Aug 2018
Default po171 2008 WRX

Threw a CEL today, came back as PO171 said I would need a new MAF, already had injector seals replaced, but smell gas on start or on a harder pull
mods:
COBB stage 1 CAI
Invidia Downpipe

note:just purchased vehicle about a week ago, am going to try cleaning out MAF but ive read that aftermarket intakes can throw a CEL for your MAF commonly. HELP

Last edited by mini-minivan; 08-17-2018 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 08-22-2018, 12:26 PM   #1545
jmacintosh
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Member#: 490502
Join Date: Aug 2018
Default lights randomly go on and off

I have a 2014 Subaru Impreza 2.0L H4 DOHC 16V VIN JF1GPAA60E92xxxxx base model 5 door

Three particular lights have a tendency to go on and off. I have not been able to deliberately reproduce the occurrence.

TPMS
Stability Control
Check Engine Light

These three intermittently come on and off. It seems random. Has anyone seen this problem occur before

Last edited by jmacintosh; 08-22-2018 at 01:20 PM.
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Old 09-26-2018, 01:48 AM   #1546
Randonexplosion
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Member#: 491943
Join Date: Sep 2018
Default

I understand that this was supposed to be a thread full of solutions but it seems to have turned into everyone asking for help. Im just gonna go ahead and pile on since i dont have the 3 posts required to start an new thread.

Newly acquired 2007 Impreza wagon 2.5i manual transmission with 86,000 miles

When purchased I was told it has a check engine light for an "oil sensor" that would be an "easy fix".

When I pulled the codes I got a p0026 and p0028 for the intake valve solenoids.

Quick online search revealed that oil level and past due oil change can be an issue, so i promptly performed an oil change with full synthetic 5w30, assuring to fill to the proper level.

The other common fix is replacement of the oil switches that coincide with the intake valve solenoid. Upon inspection they appear to be very new and clean (recently replaced) so i have not replaced them yet.

The next step came at the recommendation of a Subaru tech (friend of a friend) to perform an oil system flush. I used a BG flush product with the accompanying oil treatment product along with fresh oil and a filter.

For the hell of it i also replaced the PCV valve.

At my witt's end i got out the multi-meter and started checking the switches, solenoids and their circuits for continuity. All seemed to check out given my minimal electrical experience.

I have read countless threads and watched tons of Youtube videos and cant find anyone struggling with these codes as badly as i am. They always find an easy fix with an oil service or an oil switch replacement.

Any more suggestions would be greatly appreciated. With the CEL the cruise control is disabled and the RPM is limited to 4000, greatly limiting driveablility.

Thanks guys
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:52 PM   #1547
SK8ERSQUREL
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Default 96 legacy l po301 po325

So, first off, 96 legacy l I bought back in February this year, just over 170000 miles now. Day after I got it cel came on, didn't run differently so everything's cool. Fast forward to about 3 months ago, I filled up radiator to brin. About a week later, it's overheating really bad. So I found a leak, (must have overfilled and busted) and replaced thermostat and radiator but now it's running sluggish at low rpm, so check codes, misfire knock oxygen sensor and catalytic. So far I've done the front catalytic, spark plugs wires and ignition coil with a bottle of Lucas. Reset codes, cel cones back. Running much better now, but the codes that pertain are now p301 and p325 (was previously p303 I believe, that spark plug from that cylinder was wet with oil and a little more fouled). So I was thinking o2 sensor. Also, car overheats at idle to long. Kicking in a/c cools it back down and I've heard it's ects not actuating the radiator fan, so I'll replace that Soo and check back. But that's where I stand, I just wanna get her running solid. Plan on going to pepboys but figure I'd check in with the Subie family first
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