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Old 04-14-2013, 11:43 PM   #76
JarHarms
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Member#: 138994
Join Date: Jan 2007
Chapter/Region: MWSOC
Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
Vehicle:
06 WRX Ltd

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Took the WRX out for the first season trip to pick up lunch. I blew past a white GR hatch on the way home. I was in a hurry, no time for that chummy crap. Started thinking about all the work I want completed and how the heck am I going to get them all done timely.

Some other parts are on their way to toy around with. One can never have enough projects? I may switch up my TGV housing plans and run some composite versions I acquired. I want to see how they hold up on sort-of-DD use. Main concern is long term use and heat cycles leading to stripped thread inserts and edge break-out between the port and o-ring grooves.
Also picked up a N/A Leggy intake manifold to play around with. Probably not for this car but who knows. I really need to get the powder vendor thing figured out. I still want to get the strut housings, knuckles, and a slew of other parts coated at some point.

-------------
Just some random measurements: *some of these measurements are taken on ports that will have variance due to casting or hand porting
OEM WRX/STI intake manifold
Tbody inlet ID ~62mm round port
runner outlet ID ~52mm round port

Hand ported WRX/STI intake manifold
Tbody inlet ID .....
runner outlet ID .....
*Grimmspeed stopped their porting services in 2014 but I suspect their runner ports are 52.3-53.0mm

OEM Legacy N/A intake manifold (shorty)
Tbody inlet ID ~61mm round port
runner outlet ID ~51mm round port


WRX/STI TGV housings
top port .....
bottom port .....

Grimmspeed ported WRX/STI TGV housings
top port ~56mm round port
bottom port ~58.5mm x 35.5mm oval port

MAW composite WRX/STI TGV housings
top port ~55.5mm round port
bottom port ~56.5mm x 34.5mm oval port

OEM Legacy N/A (shorty) TGV housings
top port ~52mm round port
bottom port ~56.5mm x 40mm oval port


OEM (mls) IM -> TGV gasket ID 54mm
Grimmspeed (composite) IM -> TGV gasket ID 58mm


2006 WRX intake manifold on 2002 WRX TGV housings. All the bolts fit as they should no slotting required.


2006 WRX intake manifold on MAW composite TGV housings. The center bolts do not line up and will require slotting the intake manifold holes to fit. The MAW housings are designed off the newer Subaru TGV housings that moved these center bolts slightly inwards (towards crank).


2006 WRX intake manifold on 2007 Legacy n/a TGV-less housings. Aside from the center bolts also not lining up, the outer inboard bolts do not line up either. They will all need slotting to fit, but its not like anyone would opt to use this combination I am showing here. This combination does however suggest the type of modifications you would need to do to bolt a 2007 Legacy n/a intake manifold to these WRX TGV housings. Now that is something of value worth considering for some of us.


Closer view of one of the inboard outer bolts that does not line up (sticking up). So if one was to place the Leggy manifold on WRX housings this bolt hole would have to be slotted to fit. Get the drift?


Closer view of the other inboard outer bolts that does not line up (sticking up). So if one was to place the Leggy manifold on WRX housings this bolt hole would have to be slotted to fit. It just seems to me that they need to be slotted inwards which might be tough since the 2.5i manifold has a lot of meat in that area.
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Last edited by JarHarms; 04-22-2015 at 10:15 AM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #77
JarHarms
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Location: DeKalb-ish, IL
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06 WRX Ltd

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Strut housings are zerk'ed with strait 8mm x 1.25 stainless zerks and covered up with some dust caps sourced from McMaster-Carr. There really was no specific reason in going with metric zerks other than everything else on this car is metric. The stainless steel and dust caps are certainly intended. I'm going to load Mobil1 into a mini-grease gun specifically for struts. I checked zerk placement and compared to the struts in the car. Wanted to be certain that I could get the grease gun on the zerks when installed, looks good. I was contemplating just using the NEO HO800 grease I have around but that seems unnecessary expensive. Just need to remove the wiper seals and internal o-rings in order to have these powdercoated prior to re-assembly. Not sure if I will need to ask the coater to avoid coating the clevis contact surfaces or not. Probably dependent on applied thickness they will anticipate.
Again these housings came from the west and are in good shape. I just want to finish up with something that can withstand the midwest a bit longer then 2 years before rusting up and looking like junk.


Front and rear wiper seals cups are finished with a different cup colors. Fronts are gold cad-plated and rears are not cad-plated (silver). I would suspect that the color difference is to distinguish which parts to use with front and likewise rear housings during assembly kitting. This could suggest that there is a difference between front and rear wiper seals. Although I just do not see any obvious design differences during inspection. These are like axle seals, they have an internal support spring to help maintain contact with the insert. These wiper seal cups are removed from the strut housings by use of a bearing splitter and spacer through the housing. They will need to be pressed back into place. The housings are not painted under the cup fitment area (~11mm).



The front and rear lower o-rings have a round cross-section. The material is certainly not a Buna-N material, probably a Viton or Polyurethane for increased grease and/or wear resistance. Not sure what durometer these are. McMaster does not have either material in a size matching these. Would have to go to a o-ring specialty supply for this most likely. So don't lose these or forget to remove them before powder coating. These o-rings were easily removed from inside the housings with an extended pick tool. They will be carefully re-installed into the same o-ring groove inside the freshly coated housings.
~2.5mm thickness
~43.8mm OD
~39.5mm ID


Also finally found a set of these.....see the difference? I have been casually looking for a set of these for 2 years now. I just need to find some lug nuts with the specifications I want. Looking for a quality chrome plated steel lug with wider conical seat contact area than the Gorillas I'm using now. I'll have my work cut out for me to find something like this. KICS are closer to the seat width I want but lack on the finish and cost aspects.
Now do I sell the 5x100 versions or not? It's one of those things where if I ever get another 5x100 Subaru I will want these wheels and will not be able to find a set, let alone in this good of shape.

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-20-2013 at 09:47 PM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 01:13 PM   #78
JarHarms
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Will have to see how powder coating round 2 goes.
Found a local coater that seems up to the task on coating those strut housings and some other brackets in some UV stable powder. Shouldn't be too tough...it is only semi-gloss black after all. These should look new and pretty when they come back. As I go, I'm learning more and more about powder than I had ever wanted to. I guess that is a good thing?
Once these come back I will start cleaning them out and prep for reassembly. I have one other rear chassis/suspension item on the way. Hopefully it arrives before I fit these to the car. A new four corner alignment and I'm done until winter. I want to drive the WRX this summer. Might have the tires pulled from the 5x100 MT1's and post them up for sale.
And theenn, and theenn..........

Last edited by JarHarms; 06-18-2013 at 03:00 PM.
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Old 06-19-2013, 12:22 AM   #79
JarHarms
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Got the coated parts back yesterday and looked them over closer this evening. Turned out pretty nice, the coating is overall good. Quite a difference from the original condition; plus these were already in excellent used shape. The housings will need some internal cleanup and deburring before the o-rings/seals/inserts/grease goes in. I have a bent rear brake line bracket that I did not catch prior to coating and will require some manipulation back into place. Will probably spend some time on these with a bottle brush and a bucket of warm soapy water to clean the insides before reassembly. The jack plate turned out well and its coating should endure additional fights with Mr. Floor Jack.
I do have some thoughts on how to refine this process if I ever refinish another set of strut housings. The inner bushings are certainly coated with some sort of material that provides reduced friction and/or retains grease between the bushings and the insert tube. Not sure exactly what the material is but am not willing to determine using destructive means. This is critical to protect during the media blasting and powder application stages. Also some ideas on how to schedule better with this coater. It's all another learning experience right. With some time on my side I should have this put together and ready for alignment soon. Then only driving and non-incapacitating mods this summer.

Last edited by JarHarms; 12-18-2014 at 01:39 PM.
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Old 06-20-2013, 10:21 PM   #80
JarHarms
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Washing, washing, washing got to get every trace of blasting media out of these. A warm bucket of dish washing soap and a long handled bottle brush makes the job easier. Since these are powder coated I'm not keen on using any solvents that could damage the coating. WD-40 is usually pretty safe but always recommended to check an out-of-sight spot first. Test out Simple Green about the same. After the innards are spotless they get blown out with compressed air and dried with towels. The lower o-rings are installed in the correct groove (most tedious part of the job) and the wiper seal caps are pressed back into place. Afterwards I usually lightly coat the strut housing innards with silicone spray to help protect the lower chamber from corrosion as well as get a little lube on the lower o-ring. Smear some red grease on the insert bushings (the top one is all you can read with your index finger) and get a little red grease in the upper pockets. The strut inserts are then installed using the correct bump stops for the springs being used. A small amount of anti-seize goes on the lower shaft threads before the hex flange nut goes on. Make sure to tighten* that bottom nut, remember it or you may have some interesting things going on during the test drive. Yea, I purposely skipped filling the upper grease pockets. When I install housing zerks I end up force filling the pockets with a grease gun until filled. Trapped air moves out before a noticeable resistance to the grease gun pumping is felt. Getting the lower pockets completely filled is the most critical in order to maintain contact with the insert surface. The upper pocket is more or less there to deposit the grease that the wiper seals strip away from the insert as it moves out of the strut housing. Some grease in there is fine but completely full is unnecessary.

*Bottom hex flange nut torque specs: Since Subaru and KYB designed these as non-serviceable components there is no published torque spec for this bottom hex flange nut. The "aged" Prodrive bumpstops PDF notes a torque spec for this nut is 40 N-m (29.5 lbs-ft). Here (as long as the link is still active) -> Prodrive front bump stop install PDF download I am sure an "almost-tight-enough" spec is sufficient as well. Just make sure you have the flats on the insert shaft engaged into the strut housings properly before you tighten that nut down.

After cleaning up a FUBAR grease gun re-load (effing A it got everywhere, I should know better), I got back to charging these strut assemblies up. It is advised to cycle the struts in-out a few times to help distribute the grease in there. Just need to clean up a little runaway grease and this part of the process is done. Was also able to re-position that bent rear brake line bracket without damaging the powder coating very much at all. Now I just need to get the old parts off the car so I can swap the springs and GpN tophats to these struts.

Last edited by JarHarms; 10-15-2014 at 12:48 PM.
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Old 07-08-2013, 09:43 AM   #81
JarHarms
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Finally had some free time to start installing the struts. Got as far as getting the garage cleared to work and the car in the air. Removed one of the rear strut assemblies and pulled the spring out. Forgot that the D-specs use a larger 14mm(?) flange nut rather than the 12mm Subaru uses through the tophat. The only 12mm flange nuts I have are the OEM self-retaining ones (crimped) which would usually work. In this case the FEALs have that top hex feature drilled out and filled with a set screw, so there isn't a good way to hold the strut shaft while tightening the tophat down. Strap clamps always work for crap so I need something different. I think I have a 12mm 1.25 tap around that I will try running through the flange nuts tonight. That should loosen up enough of the self-retaining effect to manage the install but enough left to keep things in place.
**Chasing the flange nuts with the tap worked out well. I was able to assemble one of the struts without problems. Just need to final torque on the car and use a dabble of thread locker. Should get some time to finish the rear install up and work towards the front.

Pre-FEAL


Post-FEAL
<where is that darn photo> There is a set screw added inside the hex and then filled in with black sealant.

I started looking at installing the Oswald rear brace, pretty strait forward I think. There is some body seam sealer that I will need to remove so it does not interfere with the top brackets. The only other thing I need to think about is using (or not using) the rear strut "saggy" spacers. Using them does put me pretty close to not having enough tophat stud length. Omitting them might reduce my tire-fender clearance when using wide tires. I keep going back and forth. I tested out the old D-Specs and they all operate fine (none blown) so I might put them up for sale to reclaim some cash.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-08-2017 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 07-16-2013, 11:25 PM   #82
JarHarms
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Rear struts are in, pretty standard procedure. I decided to try sticking with the rear strut "saggy" spacers. If they used up too much tophat stud length then I would remove them. Rear cross brace is in, I will say that I cussed like a trucker when placing the last nut on the heim joints. Dropped those out of my fingertips a few times before I got crafty with a socket and some tape. Surprisingly there was just enough tophat stud length to get full engagement on the nuts. So the rear spacers will stay in.
While I was there I checked out the rear ARB and endlinks. The ARB body mount bushings were pretty dry (squeaky), so they got a coating of Krytox.....silky smooth and silent now. The steel hardware on the rear ARB endlinks were showing some age. I decided to switch them out for stainless parts. Yea I know steel vs stainless properties favors using steel in these cases. In reality this is not going to amount to a hill of beans. But it will keep the hardware in good shape for future maintenance. SS shouldered bolts and the fender washers were sort of hard to find, had to mail order. The regular washers and lock nuts were a local hardware store trip. Whiteline sends cad-plated steel hardware with the KLC26 endlinks which also includes a cad-plated crush tubes. The crush tubes just don't hold up long. Dang it Whiteline, at least use SS crush tubes. However WL did offer up replacement parts to replace failed bushings under lifetime warranty.
I'm putting it back together as-is for now with plans to correct this later. I'll end up getting the W0008 bushing kit since the rusty crush tubes are tearing the existing poly. I cannot find any 16x10.5x34mm (these are not the actual dims) SS crush tubes or tubing stock with those OD/IDs. Talked with a few people about having these custom made. Probably get enough tubes made to swap out a set for a future set of KLC32 front endlinks as well. Adjusted the rear ARB settings to reflect the car reactions I was experiencing after the 6MT swap. Rear brake pads were swapped out. The Centric POSI-crap were promptly placed in the trash bin. In with some new StopTech Super Street Performance pads. I hope these show the same improvement as seen on the front brakes.
Front is waiting on me to finish up the install this week. So far the new front strut assemblies are in and I have been working on installing the ABS tone ring adapters. After that its basic bolt together that might be done in time to schedule an alignment this weekend.

Last edited by JarHarms; 12-18-2014 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 07-19-2013, 08:50 AM   #83
JarHarms
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Everything is in place and torqued. Set for alignment today so I should finally be able to DD this car. It's been about a year since I drove it last. Last night's test drive was good except some sheet metal grind noise. That LHS dust shield was pretty mangled during shipping and my attempts to salvage it back into shape must have failed. Will look at that after the alignment is done. **The noise was actually the rock shields on the WRX outer CVs contacting the STI knuckles, I had to cut those off.**
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...1#post44890691

Far from exciting but had a Rennmetal rear tow hook laying around from awhile ago. So I installed it. Before:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c2...X/IMAG1586.jpg

From "rusty" to "fancy pants red". I know this boarder lines ricer but I just like it. Needs some nicer hardware but I just used the existing bolts for now.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-08-2017 at 12:26 PM.
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:21 PM   #84
JarHarms
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I have been driving the WRX here and there over the past few weeks. So far so good.
I got around to rebuilding the rear Whiteline endlinks, the SS crush tubes I had made came in. The original parts were worse than I thought upon dis-assembly. Holy heck look at those, they are falling apart.


Old components, can you see how bad these are? How can you expect proper articulation with that failure mode?


New Whiteline service kit with some "special" crush tubes. I do not plan on this re-occurring in my lifetime. Reinstalled with Krytox, anti-seize, and stainless hardware...good as new better than new.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-03-2017 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:25 PM   #85
JarHarms
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Hmm have not posted anything in here for a long time. Drives fine when I have time to get it out. Hoping to re-visit installing the new steering rack and the last of the 5x114.3 conversion. The install details of an older rack into a 2005-07 cross member is pretty non-existent. So I got another front cross member to mock up the steering rack prior to install. I can already see the problem areas that I am surprised get no mentions. Mainly clearance issues with the rack hard lines.
I ordered some 2005-07 hard lines thinking that I can modify those to fit better. Those were DIN bubble flared and a bit too short to make work. The Qrack has o-ring flare lines so I probably just need to modify those to clear the cross member. Otherwise I will have to form custom hard lines and get the right flare tools, ehh.

Last edited by JarHarms; 11-03-2014 at 12:25 AM.
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Old 08-20-2014, 11:19 PM   #86
JarHarms
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I trying to keep some motivation to start the finish work on my 5x114.3 conversion. The main conversion was already done but I kept it 5x100 until I had the wheels I was hunting for. The plan is to get the car up on jackstands once the 1st snow/salt falls. In the meantime I am starting to piece together the last of the parts I need and do a quick axle re-grease job. I'll finally get to use this R180 that I've had sitting around for awhile now.
Also picked up a v7 Prodrive DCCD cluster that I have wanted for awhile now. However the Defi's wont really match the cluster anymore. At least now I will have a cluster mounted DCCD display without having to use an (annoying to me) STI cluster. Looks like I will need to do some learning to modify the EEPROM programming and see if I can integrate it in seamlessly. I have the connectors, terminals, sockets, and chips I need to work but this might get tabled until after the suspension and steering re-work.


The family are getting priority these days so eventually I might get something done by spring. If I work in 15 minute increments and stop sleeping at night....

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-03-2017 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 11-03-2014, 12:16 AM   #87
JarHarms
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Mounted some tires this evening. It's great to have a friend with a tire machine and fresh coffee. I forgot how much I like the smell of new tires and how I sort of miss my tire tech job in college. All except the tire rubber stains that you can't really wash out of your hands. The females don't really dig that.

I don't really care what the owners manual suggests. I am pretty certain that using the factory T135/70/16 (23.4" dia) temporary spare is not even acceptable for a 2006 WRX with 215/45/17 (24.6" dia) tires; 1.2" delta and way beyond Subarus spec. Subaru also equips a similar smaller spare for the 2006 STI 225/45/17 (25.0" dia), the 2011 WRX 235/45/17 (25.4" dia), and the 2011 STI 245/40/18 (25.7" dia); 0.6 - 1.3" delta. 50 miles and 50 mph is still too risky IMO. Probably accounts for some of the burned up rear diff stories I have read about.
So my new 5x114.3 temporary wheel is going to get a different sized OD tire. I prefer tires with around a 25.3" diameter so I think the T135/80/17 (25.5" dia) tire I ordered will be a better match overall. Only downside is that this does not lay flat in the spare tire well, it's too large.


I also stripped the 235/45/17 tires off the WRX Premium wheels. Mounted some 235/50/17 tires on those to use on the Forester if they fit up alright. I might re-use these Dunlop tires since they have plenty of life in them and already paid for. Not sure which wheels to mount them on though. The STI BBS or the MT1s?
*I ended up remounting the 235/50 tires on the 5x100 MT1s since they seemed to fit better. Sold the WRX wheels to a friend for his SAABaru. Other than that I have most of the parts collected and ready to drop off for quoting media blasting and powder coat. Getting the outrigger bushings out was a PITA. I have some other parts that I want to coat as well but thinking that I might do those in another phase of work.

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Old 11-13-2014, 11:37 PM   #88
JarHarms
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Got the parts dropped off at the coater yesterday so those are being worked on while I get some other things completed. I ended up installing the 235/45/17 Dunlop tires onto the 5x114.3 MT1s. They will work until I can figure out what tires I really want to end up using. Still need to get the gravel rotors on order soon. Meanwhile I got some other lug nuts to see if I can get something I like better for the MT1s. I want something that fits better into the MT1 lug seats (cut slightly deeper than I think they should have). All of these are M12x1.25. My other wants are steel with a durable chrome finish and decent cost/value. I probably want to stick to closed end lug nuts also.

Gorilla tuner series chrome #21123HT - this is a 20pc lug nut set including a key. I have used these on lugs on many cars with great results, long service life, and still look good. Crimped on endcaps.
special 6 groove key - 19mm (3/4") and 21mm (13/16") hexagon (6 sides)
34.2mm overall length
20.1mm major OD
15.1mm minor OD
4.9mm taper length
*Gorilla's colored versions all suck balls since the coating comes off easily and corrosion sets in quickly. They look like poo shortly after installing.

Gorilla acorn bulge chrome #91127B - this is a 4pc lug nut set. The chrome finish appears to be similar to their tuner series so it probably holds up over time. I would rather see a 19mm instead of the 21mm hex. Crimped on caps. They just look.....sort of generic.
21mm (13/16") hexagon (6 sides)
35.5mm overall length
23.1mm major OD
16.4mm minor OD
6.9mm taper length

McGard splinedrive chrome #65354 - this is a 4pc lug nut set. Really these are lug/locks and include the nice swivel seat feature. Endcaps do not appear crimped on. If they just made these in a seat size similar to the 64013 I would go with these.
special 8 slot key
31.5mm overall length
20.2mm major OD
15.9mm minor OD
4.8mm taper length

McGard bulge chrome #64013 - this is a 4pc lug nut set. The chrome looks like decent quality. Endcaps do not appear crimped on.
*So far these are working well on the 5x100 MT1s installed on the Forester. I will probably go this route.
19mm (3/4") hexagon (6 sides)
36.8mm overall length
22.2mm major OD
15.0mm minor OD
7.5mm taper length

I know KICS have a major OD of 22mm and most have the swivel seat feature. Still not sure I want to spend that much on lug nuts. If I wanted to splurge on fancy lugnuts, no questions it would be on Amuse Ti lugs, because they are baddazz. Muteki have major OD of 20mm and their usual models appear to be identical to Gorilla tuner series. I probably will not even bother getting some to measure, I think those are crap. I really want to see a set of Enkei RC lugnuts or get some seat measurements from them.

Last edited by JarHarms; 12-18-2014 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 12-03-2014, 11:52 AM   #89
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Still waiting on the other parts from the coater. No hurry really since I'll be plenty busy over the holidays with family obligations.
Now what to do with these alloy LCAs and lateral links? I bet I'll be repairing threads on at least two of the LCA pin bolts anyways.
Will need a new rear ARB (STI application) to use these lateral links, probably sticking to Whiteline. Although I should go ahead and have it (and the front ARB) stripped/powder coated right away since their coating is POOP. My 2004 STI rear axles will be fine with the marginally increased track. Will need new endlinks as well. Certainly no spherical types and I really do not want poly links anymore. Specifically looking at ball/socket type but not quite sure if Rallitek (less$/non-adjust) or Whiteline (more$/adjustable) versions yet.

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Old 12-03-2014, 12:01 PM   #90
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How do you like the D-specs compared to the Sti take-offs? My JDM v7 struts clunk like a mofo.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:42 AM   #91
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Additional parts were dropped off for powder coating, maybe having all of those back in January. I was able to get the LCA bolts removed without damaging any threads, I was really surprised. I also got the front bushings pressed out after a good deal of failed dinking around with threaded rod and then the shop press success. These bushings will be re-installed.
I hope to have the following done by spring: get Pcoated parts back, install R180, rear steel cross members/parts, GpN outrigger bushings pressed in, rear Pcoated STI knuckles, new brake backing plates, all new wheel bearings, all four GpN gravel rotors, finished 5x114.3 conversion, 5x114.3 MT1s balanced/mounted, and UEGO meter mounted. I'm going to postpone the following work until the next opportunity: Qrack install, WL RCA kit, Pcoated front cross member, different engine mounts, caster adding changes, and front suspension geometry changes.

Also looking at replacing the WL ALK with a hybrid brew of OEM and STI parts. In my usual sense of over-thinking it here we go.....
Just getting solid info on what-is-what bushings is difficult enough. There is a heap of crap internet info to wade through. The Spec-C bushings that came with some STI LCAs is firmer than GroupN and more importantly they are solid rubber. Poly (WL ALK), segmented rubber (GroupN), liquid-filled (WRX/'07STI), or spherical bearing versions are just plain silly to use here for my purposes.
I am stuck on what version Forester housings I want to press these Spec-C bushings into. Forester housings are not all the same and it seems like no one really mentions or documents this at all. ALKs, Impreza, and some Forester housings have mounting planes parallel to the bolt CL, or maybe easier to call those "flat". There are a few Forester housings that have mounting planes with a slight angle milled into them, I'll call those "angled".
Angled versions tilt the housings rearwards to tilt the bushing CL downwards; I suspect to compensate for the Forester's cross member spacers, retain alignment with the LCA plane, and reduce deflection of the bushing. So I started thinking what if you are installing these onto an Impreza w/o such spacers or a Forester with the spacers removed? I have seen photos of Foresters w/o spacers and original "angled" housings that bind the crap out of the bushing enough to contact the washer to the housing. I have also seen photos of WL ALKs installed to Foresters w/o spacers and the effect was lessened but still appears bind the bushing.
(RHS/LHS)
20201AC100/AC110 - 98-99 Forester - "flat"
20201FC100/FC110 - 99-02 Forester - "angled"
20201FC120/FC130 - 03-05 Forester - "angled"
20201AC120/AC130 - 05-07 Forester - "flat"
I'll have to get under the WRX after this other work is accomplished and see what parts I need to use. I suspect that I'll use whatever parts I need to maintain alignment with the LCA plane. That being either "flat" forester housings or "angled" housings that are reversed. I also found out that the bushing tools I made for the rear trailing arms will probably work fine to R&R the transverse bushings from their housings.

and since it appears my thread only gets views like from chgjygju (which was probably a bot scammer) what is up with NASIOC, is it just me or has this place almost died off completely? Granted I really only pay attention to GC/GD era content but I can't believe it's just the shift to the newer models going on here. Where does one go to get interesting Subaru modifications and technical content rather than the trendy crap floating around?

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-17-2015 at 01:55 PM.
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Old 12-18-2014, 11:53 AM   #92
kbobomber89
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I read your thread! I'm just one of those who don't reply much


Sent from my iPhone using NASIOC
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Old 12-18-2014, 12:53 PM   #93
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbobomber89 View Post
I read your thread! I'm just one of those who don't reply much
No worries. I appreciate the reply. I just hope that it provides you with some useful info or at least some entertainment value.
I suppose (ironically) my NASIOC activity has dropped off too. But when one adds twins to already having 1, that sort of happens.
My intent was less-so my particular thread and more-so the last 5 or 6 months of NASIOC threads/posts in general. There have been lulls before but this seems like the worst in quite awhile. Just thinking out loud.

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Old 12-18-2014, 02:08 PM   #94
Bobby Jones
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Nice build. The lack of views are probably due to the bi-annual updates . And more pics pls .
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Old 12-18-2014, 05:11 PM   #95
08wrbrex
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Very awesome write up of your car. It's given me some more ideas about what to do with my 2006 wrx ltd.
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Old 01-17-2015, 01:43 PM   #96
JarHarms
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Originally Posted by 08wrbrex View Post
Very awesome write up of your car. It's given me some more ideas about what to do with my 2006 wrx ltd.
Thanks. DO IT!!!



So waiting on part coating has turned out to be my main delay. Also a slight budget delay to buy a part that I have been waiting to find for a LONG time. Pop-Up hells yes!!!

I got a STI specific rear ARB to match the STI alloy rear lateral link. Same Whiteline 24mm adjustable just the STI fitment is slightly wider to accommodate the wider span. I have the rest of the bolts and hardware for the rear subframes on the way. I had also pulled apart the rear hubs to send to coating. So I have new wheel bearings and seals ready for it's return. Just have to re-grease the bearings with Neo. I bent up the rear backing plates a bit beyond saving so I just got new ones. My next sub-task is probably refreshing the rear axles.
I got the MT1s with the Dunlop tires balanced while I was taking care of some other tire work. The dunlops will work for now but I am eye'ing other tires. RA1s would be my choice if they came 235/45/17 (which they do not). I still need some lugnuts/locks but still not sure on what ones I'm going with yet.

However I was able to work on the R180 when I got bits of spare time. This one was in pretty good shape and not quite crusty yet.


clean, mask, scuff, clean, clean again, and some satin black epoxy paint. Ahh I forgot to place cardboard on the garage floor first...dang it.


Then with a bit of work with a white paint pen. Not perfect but who's going to really see it under there.


media blasted bearing retainers, cleaned shims, new o-rings, new axle seals. **I eventually coated over this with a clear wheel paint to add some extra durability.**


Now I'm just waiting on the rear cover to come back from coating, install new bolts, and a new dimple magnetic plug. That dimple plug has a magnet which makes the OEM magnet feel really weak. I like the dimple plug better due to the hex instead of the square design. After all of this the R180 will be ready to hang in the subframes once those come back. Also got some Motul 90PA to fill with. I'm planning to run this for awhile and see if I need to bother re-tuning the LSD or not.

Last edited by JarHarms; 01-03-2017 at 03:42 PM.
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Old 03-30-2015, 12:19 AM   #97
JarHarms
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Finally! That only took 2 months longer than I was hoping. Just waiting on the rear knuckles as a few leftover parts. Media blasted the rear hubs and tone rings today prior to shooting some paint this week. I should be able to start putting this car back together soon. There will be a good deal of cleaning and prep needed before I install bushings and bolt parts back into place.
I had all the under chassis parts shot with epoxy primer powder then semi-gloss black powder. The alloy parts are shot with a silver that has a hint of metal flake (Bengal Silver).
I was going to remove the leveler mount on that lateral link but forgot. Whatever no one sees that anyways.


Was waiting on these last parts to finish up.

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Old 03-30-2015, 11:32 AM   #98
GalaxyBlueDude
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Such attention to detail. Awesome work!
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:40 PM   #99
JarHarms
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Thanks.

I started some part assembly tonight. Rear trailing arms are loaded with GpN bushings. The rear diff bar has the poly bushings installed. Moved onto the lateral links and unfortunately ripped apart a GpN bushing in the process. Apparently the Subaru bushing service tool was not originally designed for the alloy links. The slight gap that I saw (and had a hunch) caused the bushing damage. I'll have to get a new bushing and modify the tool so it butts right against the alloy bore. I think I can grind away some of the lip on the tool's tapered sleeve to fit better.

I got these done though.


Starting to look at pressing the GpN bushings into the outrigger next. Maybe I'll get the rear diff buttoned up with the coated rear cover soon. Waiting on rear knuckles to be coated, some small brackets, and the rear gravel rotors to ship my way. Maybe a few other small parts here and there. I'm really wanting to go ahead with the front end work I had planned but might just put it together and wait until next fall.

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Old 03-31-2015, 12:20 AM   #100
lzcmark
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Nice ride!

I have a '05 GD STI.
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