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Old 02-15-2017, 09:08 AM   #151
JarHarms
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No not Jessie, sorry mate.
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Old 02-16-2017, 09:59 PM   #152
JarHarms
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Variant Option mounts showed up yesterday. These are pretty stout. The iso insert itself has a 71.3mm height but I cant find my older OEM mounts to confirm if these will alter the engine-to-crossmember installed height. The mount plates are certainly different than the ones used with the square OEM and GpN mounts. Will have to look at these closer this weekend.

Took front bumper grill off to finish up a few things.


It's not the correct Cherry Blossom Red but I don't really like CBR. The 3M Scotchlite Red 1" x 36"(03458) worked great once I used a cutter to shave a 1/4" band off this roll.


On an actual JDM sport grill used on the Spec C this is not done with a pinstripe or paint on the trim ring. The JDM Sport screen insert itself has the CBR painted on the outer edge. Now that I look at it, applying a vinyl band smaller than 1/4" would turn out closer to OEM. Either way vinyl works economically, is reversible, and I like the red better.


Oswald front bumper core is in place [23lb - 7lb = 16lb weight drop]. Lightweight is great but I might have accepted some extra weight for additional width spread and the ability to retain use of the OEM threaded tow hook. Not sure about leaving those rail openings uncovered either, some gorilla tape works for now. I am considering hacking out the very ends of the OEM core to reinstall for restoring of the tow hook mount. Maybe...

Was going well until the Spec C PS cooler loop is not fitting how it should. Dang it I must have a 2002-03 version (34620FE080) since the mounting brackets on mine look different and do not line up on my chassis.


The hardlines are also much closer to the inboard body work that in mrsaturn's photo below. Uhh I just ordered new rubber hoses for this. Looks like I'm ordering more stuff now. oh great I wonder if a Spec C oil cooler adapter will fit with a Killer B header?
http://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/...633/parts.aspx

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrsaturn7085 View Post
...
Cooler kit:
34620FE120 (Subaru Japan); Spec C Steering Cooler Kit
34630FE001 (Subaru Japan); STI/Spec C Steering Cooler Reservoir...

Last edited by JarHarms; 09-05-2017 at 05:27 PM.
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Old 02-16-2017, 10:29 PM   #153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
I hear you on the angled can exhausts, not my favorite either. Tomei 440006 seemed to me to be the "least angled" can exhaust I found. I ended up betting on a Tomei 440010 since it was non-angled. My bet paid off and I'm pretty happy. I do wish either of Tomei's GD exhausts were built with a resonated mid-pipe like their 2008+ fitments. The only other thing I want to validate is if I can replace my 440010 front mid-pipe with one from a 440006 system. Tomei-USA and Tomei-JPN has been non-respondent so I will have to try it out for myself. Waiting for a used 440006 to come up for sale without a ridiculous price or one to borrow. I figure I can try it out and if it does not work then I can sell off the 440006. Or I'll build a new mid-pipe out of stainless and add a resonator.
Is that the "JDM" Tomei fitment to get the non-angled can? I've heard about that but never seen one.

Are you looking to go resonated for tone or for volume? I had a 2010 STi with a Tomei previously... the resonator definitely does not make it quieter. If anything, that car was louder (Invidia catted DP + Tomei on that one, Grimmspeed catted DP + Tomei on this one). I'm thinking the difference in the DP must be the reason for the change in loudness, but the resonator seemed to mostly make the sound a bit more crisp vs actually changing volume tone.
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Old 02-16-2017, 11:23 PM   #154
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk_Knight View Post
Is that the "JDM" Tomei fitment to get the non-angled can? I've heard about that but never seen one.
Yes Sir it is. Tomei-JPN says 440010 is JDM only but what they don't note is that it is modeled for the applied F/G Spec C which has a USDM length downpipe due to the extra catalyst. No one could confirm anything (or would even answer me) so I had to take an expensive chance in trying one. It works great and it was also designed to clear the STI rear diffuser. I emailed Tomei-USA and Tomei-JPN to confirm USDM fitment but I doubt they even care. Most importantly it is a strait out canister instead of angled out. The canister is tucked up into the bodywork more so it is not as "HEY look at me" as 440006. It is however an OEM donut style connection rather than a 3" flat flange. That ID reduction does not bother me right now. In the end going this route was easier then finding a busted azz JIC oval catback or JDM Ti axleback (the JDM Ti can is slightly angled though).

HEY TOMEI-USA or TOMEI-JPN! Why don't you send me a free TB6090-SB02A-01 "midpipe A" from a 440006 kit so I can test out the other email request you are ignoring. Seems fair to me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Monk_Knight View Post
Are you looking to go resonated for tone or for volume? I had a 2010 STi with a Tomei previously... the resonator definitely does not make it quieter. If anything, that car was louder (Invidia catted DP + Tomei on that one, Grimmspeed catted DP + Tomei on this one). I'm thinking the difference in the DP must be the reason for the change in loudness, but the resonator seemed to mostly make the sound a bit more crisp vs actually changing volume tone.
Since I've still not driven with it yet, I am merely anticipating the "if". I am pretty sure since I'm still OEM DP it will be fine. Eventually I'll be ELH, larger turbo, 3" DP, and I'm certain that will magnify the catback volume. Ti resonators are effing expensive and I know a welder that has some Ti experience. I certainly can't weld Ti let alone learn on these parts. An EvolutionM user had good luck with fabbing a new midpipe hence where my curiosity came from.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-16-2017 at 11:35 PM.
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Old 02-17-2017, 03:37 AM   #155
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Yes Sir it is. Tomei-JPN says 440010 is JDM only but what they don't note is that it is modeled for the applied F/G Spec C which has a USDM length downpipe due to the extra catalyst. No one could confirm anything (or would even answer me) so I had to take an expensive chance in trying one. It works great and it was also designed to clear the STI rear diffuser. I emailed Tomei-USA and Tomei-JPN to confirm USDM fitment but I doubt they even care. Most importantly it is a strait out canister instead of angled out. The canister is tucked up into the bodywork more so it is not as "HEY look at me" as 440006. It is however an OEM donut style connection rather than a 3" flat flange. That ID reduction does not bother me right now. In the end going this route was easier then finding a busted azz JIC oval catback or JDM Ti axleback (the JDM Ti can is slightly angled though).
That's very interesting! I'll be curious to see how it looks and how you like it. The midpipe reduction would bother me though, not due to the ID reduction exactly, but due to that I've always had trouble getting good sealing with different sized exhausts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JarHarms View Post
Since I've still not driven with it yet, I am merely anticipating the "if". I am pretty sure since I'm still OEM DP it will be fine. Eventually I'll be ELH, larger turbo, 3" DP, and I'm certain that will magnify the catback volume. Ti resonators are effing expensive and I know a welder that has some Ti experience. I certainly can't weld Ti let alone learn on these parts. An EvolutionM user had good luck with fabbing a new midpipe hence where my curiosity came from.

Ahhhh... I was mistakenly thinking you had an aftermarket DP. I think you'll like it on the stock DP. I actually got it originally as I was looking for something with a really good tone that actually had some volume on the stock DP -- even an N1 Street was quite quiet overall. It gets a lot louder with an aftermarket DP.
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Old 02-19-2017, 05:37 PM   #156
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I figured why the heck not while I am waiting for spring. Oswald rear bumper core is in place [26lb - 8lb = 18lb weight drop]. Just waiting on some OEM parts to finish up reinstalling the rear of the bumper cover and the tail lights. Also added a 3rd clip point to the rear stone guards while the rear bumper cover was off. Much less "flappy" now.
Ordered the correct 34620FE120 PS loop for 2004-07 (looks like it works on 08+ also). Started looking into the EO Cooler parts since it might fit with the new front bumper core and eventually with my EL exhaust header. Dang the heat exchanger is pricey for an OEM tube and fin offering. More than a similar sized Setrab, which is a bit too wide to fit in there like OEM.

Last edited by JarHarms; 02-24-2017 at 10:38 PM.
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Old 02-21-2017, 09:26 PM   #157
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My rough parts list staring with mrsaturn's info and searching around a bit more.

EO Cooler adapter - I am already planning a oil/water exchanger delete so I'm not including those parts (plug, waterpump, etc). I'm also planning for another exh header (Killer B) to allow fitting the adapter pipes. Appears it will fit. Later confirmed that these will work together and the oil filter still clears as well.
Although I am pretty sure I can run this with the original exhaust manifold after removing or denting in the head shield. Later confirmed that the upper RHS head shield does contact the oil header. Removing the upper shield will provide enough clearance. I tried denting in the shield and it got pretty wonky, so that may or may not work out. Since cast iron retains a good deal of heat I would probably recommend ceramist barrier coating of the manifold elbow, trying your best to reuse the upper shield (dented), and add some heat protection to the oil cooler rubber hoses.
*If I noted "nonUSDM part" then you can not get it through USDM parts department, has to be imported, or find a local equivalent*

Qty1: 21675AA020 "ADAPTER COMPLETE, OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part
Qty1: 21679AA020 "VALVE,OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part, I would order a spare just in case. It is certainly thermostatic, no temp markings but "JKC" and a blue marker stripe. I'm pretty sure it has the same dimension specs as the Mitsu valves. So an EVO 8/9/10 and Tomei thermokiller would also work here. TQspec 56 N-m (41 lbs-ft)
Qty1: 21317AA022 "CONNECTOR , OIL COOLER" TQspec 54 N-m (40 lbs-ft)
Qty1: 21370KA001 "GASKET , OIL COOLER"
Qty1: 21328AA100 "PIPE , OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part
...Qty2: 806912160 "SEAL O RING" - nonUSDM part, 12.3mm (ID) x 1.9mm (round-cs)
Qty4: 010408200 "flange bolt" - M8x1.25 TQspec 20 N-m (15 lbs-ft)


EO Cooler heat exchanger - I am using an Oswald (boxed plate) instead of the JDM bumper core (round tube) so will have to fabricate an upper core mounting point. Good news is it appears a simple bracket will be easy to fab up and possibly incorporate 45546FE000 "ISOLATOR" as well. I was able to build a mount tab and use the isolator as well.

Qty1: 45511FE000 "COOLER, ENGINE OIL" - nonUSDM part, 9row alloy, Toyo Radiator MFG.
...Qty2: 45536FE010 "CUSHION" - nonUSDM part
Qty1: 45524FE000 "BRACKET ASSEMBLY,OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part, only useful with JDM bumper core
Qty1: 45524FE010 "BRACKET, OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part, only useful with JDM bumper core
Qty1: 45546FE000 "ISOLATOR" - nonUSDM part
...Qty1: 023806000 "FLANGE NUT"
Qty1: 45522FE050 "PIPE, OIL COOLER" -nonUSDM part
...Qty1: 047406160 "TAPPING SCREW , HEXAGON FLANGE HEAD"
Qty8: 909180015 "CLIP" -nonUSDM part
*I do NOT recommend using 909170062 "CLIP" - PS tension hose clamp as a substitute it's cheaper and can order at US dealer however it is 3mm wider and really cramps the hardline barb real estate if you know what I mean.
Qty8: 909180016 "HOSE CLAMP" -nonUSDM part, SES CYCLONE non-perf 16mm, looks like SAE #4
*but I would recommend using local sourced gear hose clamps to backup 909180015, Norma/ABA #4 clamps would be the better choice, their 304SS #4 are slightly larger then 316SS #4 which cost more w/o any realistic advantage.
Qty1: 45520FE100 -> 45520FE300 "HOSE , OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part *this connects the frame mounted pipes to the heat exchanger
Qty1: 45520FE110 -> 45520FE310 "HOSE , OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part *this connects the frame mounted pipes to the heat exchanger
Qty1: 45520FE120 -> 45520FE320 "HOSE , OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part *this connects the frame and engine mounted pipes
Qty1: 45520FE130 -> 45520FE330 "HOSE , OIL COOLER" - nonUSDM part *this connects the frame and engine mounted pipes

Some of the printing on those hoses is Ri>ACM,FKM+ACM<5901

As far as I have seen the gear clamps are installed closest to the barb end then the tension clip is install just behind that. I know the gear clamps were added later to help avoid leakage. I am betting that the initial tension clip only release was leaking past during peak pressure. The gear clamps take care of peak pressure sealing but can't adjust for temp fluctuation so the tension clips were retained to stop temp cycle leaks.

I'm still not 100% thrilled on the OEM heat exchanger core since it is $330+ for what appears to be less debris robust design.


Found this post that looked promising of a more economical core but after checking it seems CXracing does not offer that 9 row version anymore. It was probably $60-70 and only needing a few mods to replicate the OEM mounting design.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vlad View Post
...I am running this one from CXracing, works quite well and is very close to the OEM in size. The distance between the centres of the risers is the same and I think it's the same number of rows.
I use grainger brass 90 degree 1/2" NPT barb adapters, no leaks so far almost 1 year of use. In generally get over 80 PSI oil pressure with medium engine speed, 4000 RPM
I'd like to find a HD stacked plate cooler of similar dimensions but so far I only see 11" spread cores. Earl's had a stacked plate that is a bit narrower than the SpecC core. The OEM rubber hoses are pricey too. Due to the temps and pressures it is probably a robust design/material, which is then pre-formed, and then placed in a Subaru bag with a nice parts markup. I'm waiting for a price quote to come back, maybe I can buy those hoses below an over-inflated price each.


About the valve. It is certainly thermostatic operation. It is strait metric threads and NOT tapered threads. The sealing is done as the bottom of the valve meets a seat within the oil header. There is no found TQ Spec yet (guessing 30-35 lbs-ft) but I suspect there may be a TQ Spec published by Mitsubishi I need to look around for.

I water bath tested the 21679aa020 Subaru thermo valve a few times for repeatable average:
nominal length 34.5mm measured @ambient degC
1st crack @80 degC
37.0mm @85 degC
39.5mm @90 degC
40.0mm @92 degC *40.2mm contact on port seat which diverts majority flow to cooler
41.5mm @95 degC
42.0mm @100 degC *42.0mm is the dead stop

Other valves:
HKS 15999-AM001 thermo valve for (EVO 8/9/X) opens at 75 degC (167 degF) - I suspect dead stop occurs at 75 degC so the cooler comes online sometime prior to that.
JUN 2020M-M001 thermo valve I'm sure is s sourced from the same place as HKS and are virtually identical.
EVO 8/9/X thermo valve opens at 100 degC (212 degF) - I suspect it is essentially the exact same part as the 21679aa020 Subaru thermo valve.
The Tomei thermokiller contacts the port seat all the time but retains the spring loaded relief feature.

Any of these valves are not needed for a street driven car. Unless you are using this cooler in severe circumstances (track, etc), with appropriate engine oils, and are monitoring a need for a change in oil temperature management.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-13-2018 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 02-22-2017, 10:44 PM   #158
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I can't believe that I'm going there. Sometimes emulating OEM is a pricey endeavor. I will say if this EO cooler core ever leaks I will find a non-OEM core to replace it with. 2/3 of my EO cooler parts sourcing is set up. Also squeeked in some parts to use when I eventually replace my aging battery. I wish we could get Panasonic CAOS batteries here in the US. Looked at LiFePo options but I'm just not convinced enough to go there yet. AntiGravity's Automotive battery with the built in balancer and jump start looks great but that price doe. Probably just stick to a Deka EXT##L for now.

When you think your finished for awhile...then you find more projects to do.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-07-2017 at 11:06 PM.
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Old 02-24-2017, 09:06 AM   #159
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Correct PS loop arrived and the brackets line up with the mounting holes better. The Hellas are not going to fit exactly like I had them prior. Looks like I can move them closer together and should work. Just have to see how the center grill fits over these. Worst case I might have to remove the center pillar section to make up some room.


I have a slight interference issue with the Oswald core. It's not by much but enough to work towards resolving it. I pushed up ordering the EO Cooler core and pipes since those EO pipes also appear to have interference with the Oswald. After getting the EO pipes in place I found those clear the Oswald just fine. No photo but it's just right with enough air gap. The PS loop is the main offender so I'll have to look into bending that part of the Osward downwards or just removing a small section.

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Old 02-27-2017, 07:58 PM   #160
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I rarely comment here, but your build and attention to detail had me going through the whole thing. Nicely done.
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Old 02-28-2017, 10:54 AM   #161
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Originally Posted by DGA View Post
I rarely comment here, but your build and attention to detail had me going through the whole thing. Nicely done.
Thanks. I appreciate that. Have been going back through this whole thing trying to ID where I need to include more details. Especially p/n's since it annoys me when those are left out or if OEM p/n's are not listed as JDM only. So I should finish up those updates soon. Maybe remove some of my rambling that does not really provide any real value.
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Old 02-28-2017, 01:00 PM   #162
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Thanks. I appreciate that. Have been going back through this whole thing trying to ID where I need to include more details. Especially p/n's since it annoys me when those are left out or if OEM p/n's are not listed as JDM only. So I should finish up those updates soon. Maybe remove some of my rambling that does not really provide any real value.
Nah man, keep it all there, it's good to see a train of thought.

I appreciate the P/N references. As I've got a Spec. B Legacy and tracing through things that interchange between a WRX, STI, Legacy GT, and a Spec. B is very valuable. Again, please keep it up, it's very much appreciated.
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Old 03-07-2017, 11:03 PM   #163
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Mostly waiting on parts and figuring some concern areas out. All of the EO cooler core-side parts are in so I corrected some of my prior posted info. Mocked those up with the PS loop to get the final verdict on the Oswald. Ended up removing some material to clear the PS and EO plumbing better. Also certain fabbing a simple 90deg bracket will properly mount the top of the EO cooler core to the Oswald. Need to figure out some sort of mesh to possibly add to the lower bumper opening. Picking up Norma clamps, cinch nuts, and some other hardware tomorrow. Trying to get the bumper covers back into place just in case nice weather and alignment occurs in the next few weeks. I thought I would be further along than this but oh well.

Not a fan of raw aluminum in the engine bay, it always ends up looking like crap. Koyo is on it's way for some extra care while I start collecting the parts to do a timing belt, water pump, EO exchanger delete, and radiator. Looked into radiator plates but bummer that there are no longer any Ti versions available out there. Maybe a Beatrush or a silver Cusco one might work out. Also building my parts list for the eventual DCCD rebuild. Ouch.

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Old 03-09-2017, 09:07 PM   #164
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Some time to spend on the project. SS standoff tubes replaced the steel tubes I used but have rusted up over the years. Way better than a lame overpriced Hella mounting bracket. Just need to wire them up. Not crazy about the yellow cages but sort of too lazy to go about painting them right now.


Also switched the junky (they rust up) Hella supplied hardware out for new SS 8-32 screws and nuts.


Ahh you think you're ready to finish up a task and BAM. The US sourced clamps you chose to use instead of the JDM sourced ones are 3mm too wide. At least the core looks pretty sitting there. I really need to find some appropriate wire mesh to cover the grill openings. That AC core though....


I think I stumbled upon a USDM substitute for 45546FE000 "ISOLATOR". I just can't quite find it in the parts diagrams to get a certain p/n. All of the opposed diagrams show the bracket and the nuts but no visual of this rubber isolator. It "might" be 73794FA000 but I'm not really sure. Anyone know what this part number is?

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-10-2017 at 11:39 AM.
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Old 03-10-2017, 09:55 AM   #165
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I don't think that's it. Have you tried parts.subaru.com?

I dug around a little bit, can't seem to find it. It might be part of a larger assembly, like a kit. You don't think a rubber isolator like that is available in at a pep boys or even a hardware store? Just something similar.

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Old 03-10-2017, 11:20 AM   #166
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Originally Posted by kenliu84 View Post
I don't think that's it. Have you tried parts.subaru.com?

I dug around a little bit, can't seem to find it. It might be part of a larger assembly, like a kit. You don't think a rubber isolator like that is available in at a pep boys or even a hardware store? Just something similar.
I did. Also tried a few other sources. Diagrams don't even have the line art for the isolator itself...it's just plain missing. The correct firewall bracket 73452FE030, hose 734422FE050, flange nut 023806006, and tapping screw 90474001 can be found on the diagrams and the p/n listings. There is a chance that it is included with the hose assembly triggered off a part revision adding that isolator to protect the hose.
Basically it's a typical isolator with opposing 6mm studs that one could source locally at McMC (dampening sandwich mounts - yum) although these don't have the nice wrench flats. I wanted to provide a possible Subaru part alternative to update my project parts list posted above.
Thanks for trying.

**Judging from eBay photos of used AC hose assemblies: I'm 80% convinced that the rubber isolator is a sub-component of the hose assembly. I suppose one could acquire an isolator from the junkyard then. Or get a similar new one from McMC.

Since I have to place an order for my EO clamps, I have some other parts I am looking at to build up a reasonable order. It seems the Oswald install loses two lower bumper cover mounting locations. I feel that the 2006-07 bumper cover is not sufficiently mounted in those areas on USDM version cars. So now I have removed two of the lower mounts with the steel bumper core. There seems to be smaller JDM RH and LH lower brackets that worked with the JDM bumper bar core. And "maybe" a center lower bracket, just not sure if used on 2006-07 or not. Trying to figure that out and add those to the order since the cost isn't much. Also thinking about some wire mesh to cover grill openings. No luck finding anything that matches the JDM sport version upper grill inserts. Not much info I could find on what rally cars tend to use. I'd rather SS over AL. Steel is a no-go. I'd rather black instead of silver. I'd rather welded instead of woven. Then just how should I mount it.

USDM plastic diamond mesh measures 1.84" opening width, 1.0" opening height, 0.11" wall thickness, and 0.4" depth
JDM coated diamond mesh measures 0.96" opening width, 0.54" opening height, and 0.06" wire thickness

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-15-2017 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 03-10-2017, 01:14 PM   #167
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You ever heard of Grillecraft? I installed their hood scoop cover and it was pretty neat, except for the part where you have to nick the scoop fins a little bit so it can fit flush. They have the covers for the 3 piece grille as well as the lower opening. I have them and just haven't had time to install them yet. Maybe I'll do it when I get new Hella horns and a new radiator.

Where did you source those small bolts and nuts from for the Supertones?
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Old 03-10-2017, 06:02 PM   #168
JarHarms
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I looked at the grill craft lower and I like that it has the frame and comes black. Except it's steel under there and requires drilling the bumper cover to mount the tabs. It's still a possible though. I found some SS options that I might try with a unobtrusive mounting and get Pcoated black.

SS screws came from McMaster Carr. Sharptones require 6 per horn and Supertones require 8 per horn. I'll PM you.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-14-2017 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 03-14-2017, 11:52 AM   #169
JarHarms
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opps...I really need to stop going to places where I stumble upon parts I have been wanting. I am and my wallet is



* I'm mainly putting this here so someone might be able to find it if they internet search the sellers name or email. Currently I only received a portion of what I ordered and it is not looking good on getting the remainder. Purchased an eBay auction containing a used HKS CAMP2, used I/F module, used boost sensor, and used temp sensor. Seller's name at the time was avoiee and had been using it since Oct 2006 They changed to japspeconlineexpress on 3/31/2017. Paypal email [email protected] (email is currently dead) was used for payment. Never got any tracking info (I did request it) besides estimated delivery date. Package 1 containing the CAMP2 unit arrived 18 work days later in good shape with an UpGarage invoice inside. Some time passed so I asked about tracking and status of package 2. Many emails back and forth occurred but I'm not specifically listing those here. Told it was shipped from different warehouse and got a UPS tracking number (status label printed). More time passed so I asked again for status which was answered by it's in NJ customs and will hit the UPS label next...oh and package 2 was mistakenly shipped to the wrong place at first causing a delay. Ok so at this point I'm being patient and understanding since it was shipping out of Japan and things happen. So instead of opening a dispute I went on waiting since I was pretty much past my deadline to open any disputes or post feedback. At 50 work days I hit my limit and contacted him that sometimes stuff happens and it's pretty clear these are not showing up so lets start talking about a refund of some amount we can agree upon. I thought this was a more than fair request since I'm not looking to fleece the guy but only want to recoup some of that money to go get some replacements. As you can guess those last few emailed have gotten zero response. They also recently changed names to japspecmezvriparts on 5/25/2017. Just awesome. I guess I was reminded of a lesson here.

A this point I consider japspecmezvriparts not really a scammer but more so an untrustworthy seller who will not make things right if issues arise. I also consider japspecmezvriparts a coward for ignoring my emails as soon as I start pushing for a reasonable refund. If you're going to screw me over at least have the balls to respond as such. I am confident avoiee will receive the same discourse pointed right back. Seems to be active on GTR/Nissan forums with a location out of Georgia (the country not the US state).

Last edited by JarHarms; 05-26-2017 at 11:20 AM.
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Old 03-21-2017, 11:49 PM   #170
JarHarms
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Finally a little bit of time to work on the WRX tonight. Tension clamps came in so the EO cooler core is pretty much installed. Swapped out the PS reservoir and finished connecting the PS cooler loop. Just need to fabricate the upper bracket to connect the EO cooler to the bumper core.


Experimenting with some mesh materials. So far this ABS diamond mesh is looking pretty good. Obviously I need to think about a mounting solution.


Still need to do some work on this. Thinking of altering these to allow reinstall. They would regain my lower bumper cover mount points and the RHS would return my OEM tow point. Also I am thinking of another feature that I can add to help support some future aero components. I also got the JDM lower bumper cover mounts (center, RHS, LHS) in. I will certainly use the center one. The RHS and LHS ones will be used if I do not re-purpose these steel bumper core ends.

Last edited by JarHarms; 03-22-2017 at 09:35 AM.
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Old 03-23-2017, 10:24 AM   #171
BbugWag
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Start to finish. Read it all. Very awesome build and nothing too insane.
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Old 04-01-2017, 12:13 AM   #172
JarHarms
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BbugWag View Post
Start to finish. Read it all. Very awesome build and nothing too insane.
Cool. Thanks.



Bracket fabbed up for the top EO cooler core. 6mm riv-nut will bolt through the top of the bumper core.


Another round of test fitting. Rerouted those existing harnesses behind the rad support. Hella harness relay mounted to center rad support and "just" clears the bumper core. Marked location in bumper core for hole to the EO cooler core bracket. Also picket up an inexpensive radiator plate, it just needs the two holes drilled for the intake snorkel.


Added in these spec-C parts to improve bumper cover attachment.
center 55507fe080 (non-USDM part) - will need two bolts/nuts to attach to radiator support and two pushclips for bumper cover
RHS 55507fe060 (non-USDM part) - will need one bolts and one pushclip to attach to radiator support and one pushclip for bumper cover
LHS 55507fe070 (non-USDM part) - will need one bolts and one pushclip to attach to radiator support and one pushclip for bumper cover


Fitted the plastic mesh and got some rubber trim. Made some marks on the bumper core for drill holes to run cable ties through.


Drilled the top and bottom holes into the bumper core. Then scuffed the surfaces and hit the exposed surfaces with some gray paint.


Ran the cable ties through the mesh prior to bolting the bumper core into place. Fits great.


Then followed up by fitting the bumper cover back on. Just needs the clips reinstalled and wire the Hella harness to the battery terminals. It has been raining crazy here so that should take care of the winter salt. Planning to get aligned next week.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-17-2017 at 10:29 AM.
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Old 04-01-2017, 07:11 AM   #173
A-man07
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Looks fantastic. The rubber trim for the mesh grill, is that a generic type of edging from a home improvement place or something you ordered? I like that radiator plate too, simple and clean.
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Old 04-01-2017, 06:04 PM   #174
JarHarms
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Neoprene rubber trim came from McMaster Carr and in different sizes/cross section. I figured the plastic mesh would run through any paint it touched, so better add trim.
After striking out finding an appropriate Ti radiator plate I went with this one. It was the simplest I could find and is stainless instead of aluminum. I liked the Beatrush one but not willing to pay that much for a press brake sheet of aluminum with a pretty color (but not matching anything in my car). Was not sure about this one's way of completely replacing the actual rad mounts. I ordered brushed stainless but they ran out and offered black coated instead. Turned out better than I thought. If bored, I may one day work on a sheet of Ti and make a replacement just for looks.

I just finished the last of the bumper cover today. That center spec C bumper support is a MUST-HAVE. SOA was being their typically cheap and foolish selves in omitting a $10 part which supports the front of the bumper cover properly.
Then I took a short drive to refuel. It's been far too long since I last drove this.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-06-2017 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 04-06-2017, 04:22 PM   #175
JarHarms
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4wheel alignment set tomorrow afternoon. Hoping to end up with some starting point numbers including SAI, included angle, and caster. I have some plans to modify those in the near future. Waiting on Swain for my radiator, which should round out my Tbelt overhaul parts (the next project). Picked up some brake calipers for later on. Not sure on my overall plan for those yet.

Also looked into some new front seats. There was a set of fronts that came up local but the seller's behavior had red flags galore...so I'm glad that fell through. Have some email requests out there for some new fronts and now looking at what I want to do on the rears.

For the rear seats either 04-05 WRX sedan black ones (don't really want the pass through) or some STI non-pass through ones recovered to match the fronts. Pretty much planning to leave the door cards as-is since those are all matted and foamed up already. Need a new 12v power supply so I can start working on the navi/HKS setup and eventually the cluster EEPROM.

Last edited by JarHarms; 04-13-2017 at 01:25 PM.
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