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Old 11-13-2006, 11:42 PM   #51
02BlueSuperRoo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
Velcro = quick, easy, unsecured, and lazy
02's way or putting a piece of MDF underneath the carpet and screwing the amp to that = long, not so easy, secured, thought out, and better way.

Sorry to those that use velcro...but IMO not only is it a cheap way of doing an install it's ghetto.
Thanks, I was starting to worry I wasted my time here.






















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Old 11-13-2006, 11:58 PM   #52
Daishi00
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"my wife is dead....HIGH FIVE"
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:02 AM   #53
02BlueSuperRoo
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You called the police? Did the retard get away?
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Old 11-14-2006, 12:04 AM   #54
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I hope my amp rack was not all for naught.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1#post15979478
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Old 11-14-2006, 01:15 AM   #55
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Great idea!
I mounted my amp under the seat- removed carpet, liquid nailed a cut to fit 3/8 mdf board to the floor, ran wiring, replaced carpet, screwed amp to mdf. It's secured, no holes in floor, and was simple.

edit- If you're a weight nerd like me you could also do 1" mdf strips lined up with amps screw holes instead of a solid piece. I thought of this afterwards. If I'm reeealy bored one weekend I may go back and do it.

Last edited by saabpilot; 11-14-2006 at 01:48 AM. Reason: add info
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Old 11-14-2006, 01:25 AM   #56
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Not a bad solution, saabpilot.
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Old 11-14-2006, 06:13 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
Velcro = quick, easy, unsecured, and lazy
02's way or putting a piece of MDF underneath the carpet and screwing the amp to that = long, not so easy, secured, thought out, and better way.

Sorry to those that use velcro...but IMO not only is it a cheap way of doing an install it's ghetto.
As usual someone turns a NASIOC thread personal.

My amp is more secure than:

an umbrella
an ice scraper
a gallon of milk
the cover to the spare tire compartment (and therefore also the lug wrench that just sits in the spare tire).
the retractable hatch cover (one tug and it pops out, I have to use both hands and pull HARD to move my amp, then also break all the wire connections and some how fit the mdf board between the rails)
anything in the glove box or center console
head unit face plate
cell phone in cup holder

etc. etc.


Obviously screws and bolts are stronger than velcro, but I really don't think that an amp "velcroed" under a seat adds statistically significant danger to the car, especially one like mine that is bolted to a piece of mdf that is a bit wider than the seat rails and grounded locally. It is a great way to "test" a location to be sure it does not cause problems in day to day use.

I got to tell you though, I like saabpilot's idea. Would only add maybe 20 miutes to the install plus dry time for the glue.
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Old 11-14-2006, 07:36 AM   #58
Daishi00
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 02BlueSuperRoo View Post
I hope my amp rack was not all for naught.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...1#post15979478
NOOOOO FWD is EVIL!!!!! those cars lay FWD eggs.

We have the running of the FWD in my home country of Kasakstahn.
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Old 11-14-2006, 07:39 AM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brizey View Post
As usual someone turns a NASIOC thread personal.

My amp is more secure than:

an umbrella
an ice scraper
a gallon of milk
the cover to the spare tire compartment (and therefore also the lug wrench that just sits in the spare tire).
the retractable hatch cover (one tug and it pops out, I have to use both hands and pull HARD to move my amp, then also break all the wire connections and some how fit the mdf board between the rails)
anything in the glove box or center console
head unit face plate
cell phone in cup holder

etc. etc.


Obviously screws and bolts are stronger than velcro, but I really don't think that an amp "velcroed" under a seat adds statistically significant danger to the car, especially one like mine that is bolted to a piece of mdf that is a bit wider than the seat rails and grounded locally. It is a great way to "test" a location to be sure it does not cause problems in day to day use.

I got to tell you though, I like saabpilot's idea. Would only add maybe 20 miutes to the install plus dry time for the glue.
Hey, I was trying not to make it personal. Sorry if I offended your velco feelings Seriously though, if you want to use velcro in the trunk of a sedan...fine, I doub it's going to rip through the back seat, but in the cabin eh...

(shh, my iPod adapter from Eclipse is velcroed to the carpet under the drivers set ) Really not my fault as there aren't any other mounting options for the thing.
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Old 04-06-2007, 03:56 PM   #60
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thanks for sharing the pics, 02BlueSuperRoo. to me you're setup is ideal and i'd like to do the same thing. maybe i missed it through all the bickering, but i for one would definitely appreciate a small write up and/or list of materials used.

thanks!
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:14 PM   #61
02BlueSuperRoo
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I have taken this setup out of my car. I think I have the mounting bracket in the garage if you want it. Just pay for shipping. If you don't want it or I can't find it I will write you up a little something.
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Old 04-06-2007, 05:18 PM   #62
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awesome.. sent you a PM
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:13 PM   #63
das nate
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daishi00 View Post
Velcro = quick, easy, unsecured, and lazy
02's way or putting a piece of MDF underneath the carpet and screwing the amp to that = long, not so easy, secured, thought out, and better way.

Sorry to those that use velcro...but IMO not only is it a cheap way of doing an install it's ghetto.
FYI, There is a lot of Velcro used to secure articles to the walls and ceiling of the Space Shuttle crew cabin (notebooks, manuals, and so forth); these articles may only weigh a few pounds apiece, but consider the acceleration and deceleration forces that these things experience during a mission compared to slamming on the brakes of your car and skidding off the road into a roll....

As with any other fastener, it is important to use enough Velcro to adequately secure the item. Greater surface area = greater fastening ability

In the case of securing amps under seats, the confined space combined with the fasteners and the wires that are screwed into the amp with all contribute to restricting the ability of the amp to "slide around" the cabin. And yes, Velcro will have a tendency to reattach itself. That's physics for ya! Where a velcro-type attachment would be a concern in a crash-type scenario is when the amp (or speaker or whatever) is attached to a side wall or open floor space or back of seat by Velcro only, with no additional means of support. Again, under the seats is acceptable, as the confined space restricts the movement of an unsecured article.

As an aside: in the aerospace world, all parts must be secured by at least two separate fastening mechanisms (e.g. locking threads and safety wire; epoxy and safety wire; etc.). This is a good habit to get into, imho.

C/N: If you are going to use industrial Velcro, use a lot of it.
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Old 07-14-2009, 03:11 AM   #64
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Man, I like ur work

and It gives me idea on my car
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Old 11-11-2009, 01:27 AM   #65
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Bump.... Do you have any more in-depth pics of your mounting bracket?
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Old 03-29-2024, 07:34 PM   #66
richardsubiestanley
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I have a question... I have a 1/awg, going to run a bd1000 in the hatch and a 400x4 under the passenger seat. Assuming I run the 1/0 to about the rear seats, any idea how much 4g I'll need to reach the hatch and pass seat? 16 Impreza hatch
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Old 05-28-2024, 04:30 PM   #67
TxSubieWagons
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ok, this will be a long reply. several questions:


1. What brand is the said "BD-1000" and Brand and Model of the 4ch amp? and have you already purchased these amps? were they new or used?



2. Where did the idea/need for a 1ga main power wire come from?


* 1/0ga or pronounced "1-ott" its a heavy gauge wire intended for heavy industrial welding and transformer wiring. about the diameter of an average Man's thumb. Rarely in car audio is the actual wire core anywhere near that size. That why every wire supplier has wire vs length amperage charts to help decide safe sizing vs lengths for the amperage needed



Car Audio main power wire is more realistically 1/0ga (sometimes advertised as Zero, One or 1 or 0 ga), 2ga, 4ga, 6ga, 8ga, etc.


* For (2) amplifiers 1/0ga is likely overkill unless that amp manufacturer says "1ga power and ground required" and those days haven't been around since the late 1990's early 2000's.



3. what other pieces are in your system?
* Head Unit?
* Front Speakers?
* Rear Speakers?
* What Subwoofer and in what type of enclosure*


4. What Music Format will you be using? Phone? Bluetooth? CD? Nav/Media?


5. Last question: Be honest: what artists and/or bands or types of music? And "I listen to EVERYTHING" is a lie. LOL! 99.999% of all people cannot and do not listen to "everything", its ok to be into EDM or Techno or Rick Astley or Jelly Roll or Country or Sinatra and Crosby. Just be honest what you listen to and how/what you listen on.



I retired several years ago from full time system design and building. Just can't crawl in and out of the cars like I used to.


All that said, based on the limited info of you post, let's start here:


* If you want the 4ch amp under the passenger seat, I personally would run the main power wire along the passenger side. Have a fused distribution block there, and a short 4ga to the 4ch amp. Then continue back to the rear BD1000 with main power wire.



* If the 4ch amp needs the 4ga wire for 12v+ then you should use the shortest 4ga ` ground to the closest and neatest route to one of the seat bolts. Be sure to sand and clean the ground point and then spray some CRC Battery and Ignition Sealer over the ground point and bolt after secure.


* out back, you may need an additional fused distribution block from the main wire to the size the BD-1000 needs. and again shortest ground that MUST match the size of the power wire going into the amp.


* Consult the Amp Manufacturer's recommendations in the owners manual for the ga of wire into the amp. this applies to BOTH amps, individually.


* Take the fuse(s) ratings on the body of ALL the amps and add them up. There are numerous power wire charts to determine the size ga of wire your system will need to operate safely.


* Remember: just because an amp is called a "1,000 watt amp" doesn't mean it really makes 1,000 musically driven watts of output.



* Most system using mainstream, current Class D amplifier technologies, even the cheaper brands, will be just fine with a 2ga power feed wire and 4ga to each amp. Again the charts will help figure that out and can save you big $$ for other stuff you are likely going to need.


So share some more about your set up, either planned or already purchased, and we can figure out what will be the best way to map it out.



Last thought: This thread is over 8 years old. After you answer the questions above, maybe we ask it to be moved/merged into its own thread so its easier to see for others wondering the same things.


~Rob
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