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Old 06-29-2020, 11:37 PM   #1
casey_jones
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 511807
Join Date: Feb 2020
Default 2013 WRX Secondary Air Pump

I've read through a lot of the air pump threads and searched and searched and can't really find any answers.

I've bought the kit from KSTech to block off the solenoid valves and the air injection tubes
http://www.kstech.biz/subaru-air-pum...x-sti-lgt-fxt/


I haven't really seen any instructions for this model year or whether instructions for other model years will work, can anyone clarify? Is the only thing that is different with the STI the barometric sensor?



I also didn't see any clarification on what kind of problems not blocking off the valves can do when it's throwing codes P2431 and P2432. To my understanding it lets exhaust back into the head, can this cause AFR or boost issues?


I've got the time to take everything apart, and I'd like to leave everything in there for inspection time here in the good ol' east coast. So far I'm assuming TMIC, intake cover, and potentially the turbo and up-pipe.


Could really use some clarification on this stuff.



Thanks.
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Old 07-01-2020, 09:50 AM   #2
cknowlen
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Member#: 189077
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Connecticut
Vehicle:
2011 STI limited
WRB

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I did the secondary air pump delete and blockoff plates on my 11' STI. My understanding is that the secondary air pump is only used during cold starts to allow the engine to get to operating temp quicker (and to warm the catalyst sooner). The issue with the two valves to be specific, is that they are right below the hood scoop and water will drip on them causing them to fail prematurely. If they fail in the closed position, you really arent hurting anything. If they fail in the open position, you have the potential of permanently allowing hot exhaust gases to be where they should not be (someone more technically inclined might have to chime in on this), but I was under the impression that melting plastics could be an issue. In my case, the valves failed open, and I was forced to resolve it in some way due to upcoming emissions. I decided to delete the pump, leave the valves in place and install the blockoff plates. Had my tuner delete the resulting codes, and passed emissions with no issues whatsoever. Even saved a tiny bit of weight due to the pump and a few lines being removed lol. I have not noticed any performance issues, and my warmup time really does not feel affected. Hope this helps, and hope I am not speaking nonsense. Cheers.
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Old 07-02-2020, 11:48 PM   #3
casey_jones
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Member#: 511807
Join Date: Feb 2020
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by cknowlen View Post
I did the secondary air pump delete and blockoff plates on my 11' STI. My understanding is that the secondary air pump is only used during cold starts to allow the engine to get to operating temp quicker (and to warm the catalyst sooner). The issue with the two valves to be specific, is that they are right below the hood scoop and water will drip on them causing them to fail prematurely. If they fail in the closed position, you really arent hurting anything. If they fail in the open position, you have the potential of permanently allowing hot exhaust gases to be where they should not be (someone more technically inclined might have to chime in on this), but I was under the impression that melting plastics could be an issue. In my case, the valves failed open, and I was forced to resolve it in some way due to upcoming emissions. I decided to delete the pump, leave the valves in place and install the blockoff plates. Had my tuner delete the resulting codes, and passed emissions with no issues whatsoever. Even saved a tiny bit of weight due to the pump and a few lines being removed lol. I have not noticed any performance issues, and my warmup time really does not feel affected. Hope this helps, and hope I am not speaking nonsense. Cheers.
Would you have any idea what areas of the engine it lets exhaust gasses back into the engine? I'm thinking since that one valve is near the PCV that could be a problem area.. But I'm not sure. I'm also thinking that they're valves.. They either have an open or a closed position. If the valve isn't in the stuck open position and it throws a CEL(Something Something Valve Stuck Open) then it should be closed, and I can unplug the pump and clear the codes with accesstuner for now. Thoughts?
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Old 07-06-2020, 10:08 AM   #4
cknowlen
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Member#: 189077
Join Date: Sep 2008
Chapter/Region: NESIC
Location: Connecticut
Vehicle:
2011 STI limited
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by casey_jones View Post
Would you have any idea what areas of the engine it lets exhaust gasses back into the engine? I'm thinking since that one valve is near the PCV that could be a problem area.. But I'm not sure. I'm also thinking that they're valves.. They either have an open or a closed position. If the valve isn't in the stuck open position and it throws a CEL(Something Something Valve Stuck Open) then it should be closed, and I can unplug the pump and clear the codes with accesstuner for now. Thoughts?

the hard pipes that connect to the valves themselves will lead you to the ports on each side of the heads where gasses would be traveling. I dont have any pics or a diagram to point to for reference at the moment.
If the valves get stuck in the closed position it is much less of an issue, as I said. And you are correct, you could theoretically just leave them in place and delete the codes (if you have access tuner race and not just the standard access port manager). Personally I would just install the blockoff plates, they arent too hard to do. Then be done with it, free up some space in your engine bay by removing the secondary air pump as well.
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Old 07-06-2020, 02:47 PM   #5
willowlee
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Member#: 358533
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: central california
Vehicle:
2013 sti sedan
wrb

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Its been years since i removed mines. I remembered faintly the instruction said to use one of the plate to seal it from where the block is. But i did not do that. The pipe to the block was a pita to take off, so I just blocked it off from the metal pipe that attaches to the block on the driver side. The other plate blocks the other metal pipe.

The hardest bolts to take off is the horizontal bolts on the pipe that sits on the bottom of the intercooler. Even with the intercooler off, you need a snake bit extension to get those suckers out. I did not have the extension. I gave up and took a break while my brother fiddle with it. He was able to get them out with a tiny rachet and wrench. There was barely enough room to fit a socket in there the way it was positioned.
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