|
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
01-31-2002, 11:24 PM | #1 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:19 PM. |
01-31-2002, 11:53 PM | #2 |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 2992
Join Date: Nov 2000
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Connecticut, USA
Vehicle:02 WRX Sedan Silver |
You begin your post with "Anyone with a coolant temp gauge?" and then ask "What would be a good place for a coolant temperature probe?"
The short ansoer is that EVERY WRX OWNER has an engine coolant temperature gauge and a good place to probe is where the stock sensor is located. Care to be more precise? |
02-01-2002, 12:01 AM | #3 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 14311
Join Date: Jan 2002
Vehicle:2010 GTI White |
Quote:
Oddly enough my Metro has a true, useful water temp guage. I can watch it raise and raise and then drop when cool water is introduced to the engine. Kinda retarded that a Metro has this and a WRX or an RX-7 doesn't. |
|
02-01-2002, 12:21 AM | #4 | |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 8785
Join Date: Jul 2001
Chapter/Region:
SWIC
Vehicle:02 c_turner@ix. netcom.com |
Quote:
The WRX has a very accurate water temp gauge. The ECU uses this sensor and anyone can read the exact temp with an OBD scan tool. The problem is the gauge on the dash is designed to not be acurate for a reason. On my car center on the gauge is between 165 and 220 some degree's. You will likely never see the gauge go over the half way mark unless you are road racing or have a problem. My WRX sits around 200F according to the ECU. I too urn for a true reading gauge. CT |
|
02-01-2002, 12:26 AM | #5 |
*** Banned ***
Member#: 2992
Join Date: Nov 2000
Chapter/Region:
NESIC
Location: Connecticut, USA
Vehicle:02 WRX Sedan Silver |
It's true that the stock gauge operates as you describe. However, the sensor it uses is good enough for the ECU, as well. And the ECU is making critical decisions based upon that input. The WRX's ECT sensor is good.
|
02-01-2002, 12:27 AM | #6 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 14311
Join Date: Jan 2002
Vehicle:2010 GTI White |
Quote:
Do you have any idea what the reason as to why the guage in the dash is inaccurate? |
|
02-01-2002, 12:29 AM | #7 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 14311
Join Date: Jan 2002
Vehicle:2010 GTI White |
Quote:
You are correct and I should have just agreed with you in the first place. |
|
02-01-2002, 01:47 AM | #8 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:22 PM. |
02-01-2002, 10:37 AM | #9 |
Scooby Guru
Member#: 6124
Join Date: Apr 2001
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: Glendale Hts, IL, USA
Vehicle:2000 NFR AP1 S2000 '07 Honda FIT sport (5MT) |
|
02-01-2002, 11:44 AM | #10 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:21 PM. |
02-02-2002, 05:31 PM | #11 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:21 PM. |
02-03-2002, 03:55 PM | #12 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8062
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Silver |
I usually prefer to install in the inlet hose to the radiator. There are two reason for this. First, when the thermostat opens you will be able to see what temperature it opens at because the needle will settle at that initial temp. If you are able to detect deterioration of sorts, like the t'stat opening earlier or later, then you can react before problems arise.
Second, water temp coming out of the motor is what you want to know. Fluctuations in temp over short periods might indicate problems in flow somewhere. I did not have an aftermarket guage installed when I participated in a gruelling 6 hour event last summer. The stock guage doesn;t move from its "normal" position for almost 20~30 degrees or so (ie. temp could be anywhere from 180 to 220) so the needle doesn't move from "normal". I was between 2nd and 3rd most of the time and rpms were about 4500~6500 and sometimes 7000 consistently. Unfotrunately, when I saw the needle come right up to the high mark there was no way to tell what the actual temp was other than the guage saying high. Now there is a little oil seeping at the head gasket of the left head and that could have been from the overtemp condition. If I had a "normal" gauge, I might have been able to note trends before hand and I would not have pushed so damn hard all that day. After watching the rally coverage and seeing the subaru engine fail because of partial blockage of radiator air inlet by ice, I speculated that the engine may have a lower threshold for temperature related problems than some other engines I've seen before. And that car has the sturdier engine whereas ours are the open deck blocks. Ted |
02-03-2002, 04:57 PM | #13 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8679
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Morgantown, WV
Vehicle:2010 The most hated vehicle on the internets |
Quote:
|
|
02-03-2002, 09:39 PM | #14 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 9611
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: katy
|
my sensor install
i installed my sensor in the upper rad hose.
i think that was your question. |
02-03-2002, 09:53 PM | #15 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:21 PM. |
02-03-2002, 10:52 PM | #16 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8062
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Silver |
Quote:
What's involved in putting it where the t'stat is? Adapter? What about space? We had some guy put his sender right behind the t-stat on his engine (toyota of some sort). That wasn't a bad idea. The bad part was he didn't bother to see that it was also beside the #1 exhaust port. Guess what kind of temps we saw during a dyno run..under power it pegs on the high side, on decel it pegs on the low side, on a long idle it sits close to normal, and on a cruise it indicated slightly high. In my years of testing, the ideal points to consider in measuring anything going in and out of a motor was the in and out temps: engine water in vs engine water out; engine oil in vs engine oil out, and so on. We also had an engine where the head alone had a couple of dozen thermocouples in it in various locations. Just because you have a t'stat that says 180 doesn't mean that the head, or the motor for that matter, is 180 all over? It varied. High alongside the exhaust ports and between cylinders (high 200~low 300) and adjacent to combustion chambers. And 180 right behind the t'stat; 180 after it. But really, I'll still put it in the hose out of the motor. You can put it where you feel comfortable...seen a gastroenterologist lately? One ideal outlet is to have a manifold that collects water out of the hot side of the head along side or between the exhaust ports and joint to a common hose that goes to the rad. Better still is to have the cool water enter the head evenly and circulate down through the block and out. The traditional way of in the block up, around the head from the rear and out the front is one of the most inefficient ways to do it. Ted |
|
02-04-2002, 08:41 AM | #17 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:22 PM. |
02-05-2002, 04:00 AM | #18 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8062
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Silver |
Quote:
Second, 50/50 is for street use. For hard use, we used way less and just for water pump lubrication. For street here in CA, I try to use less than 50/50 but enough to prevent aluminum corrosion...and yes, aluminum does corrode...all the white stuff pack on some of the coolant passage surfaces,...that's corrosion by-product. Is that doubt in your words? Some engineers get into trouble by convincing themselves that because they haven't seen it, it never happens. Look at the TRD record in CART for so many years..I left there for that reason. Quote:
Do what you feel is more comfortable. Put that sensor where you think it does the most good. If you think I'm full of it, by all means, go ahead. Take it with a grain of salt if you must. Hell, carry a pound of it. My posting was intended as harmless, your response took it one step higher. How am I supposed to interpret your other than harmless retort anyway? Harmless? Ted Last edited by thng; 02-05-2002 at 04:32 AM. |
||
02-05-2002, 11:39 AM | #19 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8681
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: this is pointless
|
this is pointless
Last edited by BOP; 12-04-2002 at 02:22 PM. |
02-05-2002, 10:17 PM | #20 | ||
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8062
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Silver |
Quote:
On a turbo engine, the stresses are magnified. Differentials in temps, pressures, etc are accentuated. The temp of the engine coolant outlet represents, at best, an acceptable out put that is repeatable. Quote:
Ted |
||
02-06-2002, 01:11 PM | #21 |
Scooby Newbie
Member#: 14091
Join Date: Jan 2002
Chapter/Region:
MWSOC
Location: crAkron Ohio
Vehicle:71 dime 15 mazda6 6mt |
Temp probe question:
IF the best location happens to be the upper hose coming out of the engine block, how do you go about securing a probe to a hose? I have never seen a water temp probe. I assume its a threaded metal plug.
If my assumption is correct, how is a threaded metal thing secured to a hole in a rubber hose that transports liquid under pressure? |
02-06-2002, 06:23 PM | #22 |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 8062
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Moreno Valley, CA
Vehicle:2002 WRX Silver |
You can purchase a Tee adapter that has hose fittings on both legs and the right pipe tap on the Tee. I know there are some manufacturers that already make these adapters (omori comes to mind) but I a, told they use steel.
Check Home depot since they have a wide assortment of adapters or you can have one made to your own design. I made mine to fit into the upper hose from aluminum and dimensioned to fit just before the hose bends into the top rad tank. It appeared that I could still make the adapter smaller but I also thought that I I needed to tap into the hose later on, I would have 2 other faces to tap into for whatever reason arises. Ted |
08-21-2002, 02:55 PM | #23 | |
Scooby Specialist
Member#: 13417
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Vehicle:2002 WRX Blue |
Quote:
|
|
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
oem coolant temp gauge not working... | czo79 | Legacy Forum | 0 | 08-01-2003 01:11 PM |
Transmission temp gauge idea, Switch to use coolant temp gauge so no dash space taken | ciper | Transmission (AT/MT) & Driveline | 6 | 06-05-2003 03:54 PM |
Coolant temp gauge peeve... | Coati | Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) | 8 | 01-24-2002 05:15 PM |
Installing coolant temp gauge... quick questions.... | Porter | Factory 2.0L Turbo Powertrain (EJ Series Factory 2.0L Turbo) | 3 | 11-17-2001 04:07 AM |
Which? Oil or Coolant temp Gauge? | yebokmj | Normally Aspirated with bolt-on Forced Induction Powertrain | 5 | 09-03-2001 02:57 PM |