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Old 08-25-2019, 02:19 AM   #1
tarwrxheel
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Member#: 501410
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WRB

Default Rallispec Build w/FP BLUE - 430whp/392tq E75 Mustang Dyno

(FYI, I have a similar thread already posted before turbo upgrade, but this is the full description and the end point (ya, right ha) of the build for now. Sorry if this is a double thread/post)

[b]Rallispec 2013 WRB WRX Hatch - 93,000 approx 9,000 on the shortblock.

8/22/2019
Labworx, Cleo, Rallispec, Vince
Mustang Dyno, ~91degrees, felt humid, I have no clue % haha Stock on that dyno is ~225
93 - 351whp/311torque
E75 - 430whp/392torque
25psi max
[/B

Stock 5MT, Stock Clutch, so the torque is held back. Will the transmission pop at this power? Let's hope not. The plan is to take it easy on it till the clutch starts slipping, once that pops, 6speed swap. I will not spend a penny into transmission until the swap. Rallispec keeps urging me to plan it that way. Going to a stronger clutch would prevent slipping of course, but the stress is now transferred to the transmission. Clutch slips? You can drive it. Transmission goes? Car is parked.

Also, the 93 gas was crappy (I've used Conoco and Sunoco for 2 dyno tunes for this build and both were reported to be crappy! There's some suspicion why the Sunoco could have been *bad*...for the 2nd tune I had to get it back down to 10% ethanol from a full tank of 79%E. That's the only way to get a true 93tune. TAKES FOREVER btw, consider that if going back for a second flex fuel tune. It took me well over 400miles to get back down to 10.6%. Adding something 10.0% to ANYTHING higher than 10% makes it hard to get down to...10%. I thought it would neverr happen, it's like taking a half of a half...do you ever hit zero? Nope. Filling only 1/8th of tanks at a time, maybe some 91 or even 87 from the pump got into the car, lowered octane. Who knows. Onto the rest...

Rallispec Engine - built/assembled in house.
Rallispec Street Spec Shortblock - all forged internals

Forged Cosworth Pistons
ARP2000 Head Studs
11mm sti oil pump
Killer B ultimate oil pump
IAG AOS

Mounts
Sti Group N Engine, Sti Hardened Transmission, Sti hardened pitch

Turbo:
FP Blue 58MM 8 CM turbine
Grimmspeed up-pipe 2 bolt
Tial Sport MVS 38mm EWG
Cobb 4 Bar Map Sensor
Cobb EBCS

Deletes:
Rallispec TGV Deletes
Rallispec Air Pump Delete

Fuel:
AEM High Flow Fuel Pump
ID1,300 Injectors
Cobb Flex Fuel Kit w/Pressure kit
RCM Fuel Rails

Intake:
Cobb SF Intake
Grimmspeed TMIC w/hood duct

Gauges:
Boost, Oil Pressure, Air/Fuel w/wideband gauge

Suspension:
Whiteline Swaybars

Exhaust
Cobb SS 3" downpipe
Agency Power Exhaust

Tuning/Builders:
Rallispec - Dave Anton (Road Tune, Car ran strong and safe, I believe doesn't do road tunes anymore though b
Rallispec Builders - Jodie/Vince/Dave, great input from Gen as well
Labworxs Tuner - Cleo

PLEASE READ: Important Part of the Build: Regarding the Sure you want 400WHP Thread? I really hope people read it if you are thinking about going from under ~275whp up to ~350whp+ in these awesome cars in one step. Going from stock to 400whp can be dangerous to not just you, but others on the road. Watch videos of high speed crashes, they are terrifying and I watched a bunch before getting this final car tuned back. I am glad I did. Stock turbo 350whp tuned to FP Blue 430whp is a difference that is hard to describe. Granted, I am still getting used to it. I remember stock, I loved it. I did not need more at the time. If I never upgraded it, I would still enjoy it to this day. I remember the replaced engine, loved it even more. Etc. Make it a journey.

Can a 400+ WHP be a good DD? It depends!

How is the tune? Driving under 3,500RPMS this feels verry similar to when it had 350whp. I think it drives smoother than when I had it originally stock. There is zero issue getting around in traffic, etc. Gas mileage can be fine...stay out of boost, save gas.

Can you afford it? Don't think about $100's, think about $1,000's haha...**** adds up quickly.

Reliability? If your car can handle a max of approx 400whp and you build it to 400whp, you're tip toeing. You may spend for TWO builds instead of one if you try to skimp out on supporting mods. Rallispec built for ~650whp and am sitting at 430whp. Time will tell of course, but I do not see why this will have many issues. 9,000 miles, a lot on 342? whp and there have been essentially no problems. No oil burn. A couple loose clamps, one boost leak, etc. The boost leak...newly built car, temps stayed below freezing for days at a time in South NJ. The stock 5MT, zero arguments, it will not handle where I am at for long if I drive it hard. No delusions of the weak point in my car. Oil Changes...? Every 1,000 miles. Call it crazy, I call it an insurance policy I'm willing to spend. Every 1K is the most conservative I've ever heard, and I'm not arguing against higher numbers, but running E75%+ most the time, it is worth it. Then I can drive the car harder also!

Traffic? I have stock suspension, WRX, only upgrade is front and rear swaybars, one of the best mods so far for the car, no doubt. It changes the driving experience entirely. I am not sure if it matters as much for the STI. I have to dodge potholes in my area and cannot always succeed (Southern NJ, a suspension test for your car)...even with the swaybars, no problem at all. It is a little harsher for sure, but there is nothing uncomfortable about it. Swaybars would have been the very first upgrade if I had to change anything about this progression.

Is it fun? Oh god, yes. It sounds like a race car basically, screams above 5,000RPM's, pulls strong. Biggest changes: Swaybars, External Wastegate (It's a game changer) FP Blue. Sound impacts the butt dyno, no video can do an external waste gate justice. Basically, warn passengers, "Don't worry, the engine sounds like it's going to Fn explode, it's normal"

Responsible? If you don't respect how to drive it, please just don't. You may be able to handle it, but there are HORRIBLE drivers out there. Go do a pull from 50-90 in a 350-375+ whp WRX then think about how quickly someone could jump into your lane. It's unreasonable to even EXPECT drivers to stay in their lane if you are that far behind. Does anyone really check their mirrors, see a car 100's of yards behind, and consider them to be "close to you" Once you get on it, you're next to them before you know it.



(It's late, will cleanup mistakes/proof tomorrow)

Atco Subie Raceway Takeover in NJ Tomorrow......anyone?
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Last edited by tarwrxheel; 08-25-2019 at 02:46 AM. Reason: wanted more description in title
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Old 08-25-2019, 09:44 AM   #2
MaximNYC
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Member#: 339591
Join Date: Dec 2012
Chapter/Region: Tri-State
Location: Short Hills, NJ
Vehicle:
2009 STI
silver

Default Rallispec Build w/FP BLUE - 430whp/392tq E75 Mustang Dyno

Had Rallispec block in my car. Lasted 30K miles. Lifted heads after 15k. Then got rod bearings fiasco. You get what you paid for.

Last edited by MaximNYC; 08-25-2019 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 08-25-2019, 10:41 AM   #3
tarwrxheel
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Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximNYC View Post
Had Rallispec block in my car. Lasted 30K miles. Lifted heads after 15k. Then got road bearings fiasco. You get what you paid for.
Damn, that is a bummer sorry to hear! So, who did the install/all of the work/tuned it? What kind of power were you running? Need more info that was pretty vague for you get what you paid for, curious to know other possible contributing factors, maybe Iíll learn something I should know. Are you saying you should have spent more money on the actual block or other things?
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Old 08-25-2019, 11:51 AM   #4
MaximNYC
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Join Date: Dec 2012
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Location: Short Hills, NJ
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silver

Default

They did both. Assembly and road tune. I forgot person name who runs that shop (Dave ? ). Tune was terrible (stumble , flat spots) had to retune year later with JR. Numbers were around 450whp on E85+DOM 2.5 XTR. Funny part was that as soon as I came home (NorthNJ) I found engine leaking oil in TB area. I suspected main oil seal or cams seals. Had to pull engine again week later to check ... those asswholes (I am trying to be polite) didn't torqued engine access plugs (both sides) ... those one which you pull connecting rods through. .. oil where leaking through those everywhere

So my experience was terrible. Impression was ... cheap shop which attracts you by lower then avg price and then overcharge you for service (to be honest most of them do anyway but not that obviously). If you publish invoice I can point how much they screwed you for. I will not be surprised if they invoiced you for their commute time.

If you live in NJ you have basically a few choices. If you are in SNJ u go to IAG in MA. If u r in NNJ u go to EfiLogic (CT). If u are in CNJ you are screwed...you will spend time endlessly trying to decide which out those 2 is better.

PS enjoy your car. On E85 you are going to lift heads with ARP2000 switch to CA625 next time.

Last edited by MaximNYC; 08-25-2019 at 11:58 AM.
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Old 08-25-2019, 12:14 PM   #5
tarwrxheel
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Member#: 501410
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WRB

Default

Sorry that happens, blows! Literally haha...

No way do I care to post my invoices for you to tell me I got screwed...Iím extremely happy with everything and how I was treated throughout the entire process. Thanks for the offer.

My experience was the 100% opposite of yours, thanks for the input but letís move on. This is about my build, not your gripe with them. I appreciate the advice on ARP head studs, I will talk to them/others about it. So sorry you had a headache like that, but take your bashing elsewhere. Many have been extremely happy with Rallispecís blocks/services. I am and thatís all that matters for this thread. Thanks.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MaximNYC View Post
They did both. Assembly and road tune. I forgot person name who runs that shop (Dave ? ). Tune was terrible (stumble , flat spots) had to retune year later with JR. Numbers were around 450whp on E85+DOM 2.5 XTR. Funny part was that as soon as I came home (NorthNJ) I found engine leaking oil in TB area. I suspected main oil seal or cams seals. Had to pull engine again week later to check ... those asswholes (I am trying to be polite) didn't torqued engine access plugs (both sides) ... those one which you pull connecting rods through. .. oil where leaking through those everywhere

So my experience was terrible. Impression was ... cheap shop which attracts you by lower then avg price and then overcharge you for service (to be honest most of them do anyway but not that obviously). If you publish invoice I can point how much they screwed you for. I will not be surprised if they invoiced you for their commute time.

If you live in NJ you have basically a few choices. If you are in SNJ u go to IAG in MA. If u r in NNJ u go to EfiLogic (CT). If u are in CNJ you are screwed...you will spend time endlessly trying to decide which out those 2 is better.

PS enjoy your car. On E85 you are going to lift heads with ARP2000 switch to CA625 next time.
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Old 08-25-2019, 04:59 PM   #6
Scuby04STi
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Location: Portland*
Vehicle:
2004 STi GTX3076R
Rally Blue

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Fyi, I ran the arp2000's on my build up to 26psi out of my gtx3076 (you know the rest) and never had an issue. Swapped to the blah blah blah aged 625's when I added sleeves in anticipation of 30+ psi just because it was recommend at the time. Side note builder did NOT want oversized studs on a subaru block.
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Old 08-25-2019, 05:25 PM   #7
Dave D.
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Member#: 130990
Join Date: Nov 2006
Chapter/Region: NWIC
Location: Menzel Lake, WA
Vehicle:
06 Red Ltd.Wagon
Dom 1.5xtr JJ tuned

Default

Nice setup, very similar to my Dom 1.5 build. I'm guessing the power comes on quick!

I would think more about blowing up your tranny before you swap. You can sell a tranny that's not blown, and if the clutch needs replacing, why not just pull things then and spend your clutch money, and funds from what you can sell your 5-speed for on that swap?

You can set up ahead of time and not have your car in the shop for too long. Of course, funds must be considered -- but you'll need them either way.
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:11 PM   #8
tarwrxheel
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Member#: 501410
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
Fyi, I ran the arp2000's on my build up to 26psi out of my gtx3076 (you know the rest) and never had an issue. Swapped to the blah blah blah aged 625's when I added sleeves in anticipation of 30+ psi just because it was recommend at the time. Side note builder did NOT want oversized studs on a subaru block.
Up to 26psi is what I was just advised today we could take the ARP2000ís up to. I max at 25psi on E75 so anytime I have some 93 in it, it will be lower than 25psi. not concerned one bit about them for now. Then again, I was tuned in 90 degrees temps so once the cool weather hits, Iíll be watching to make sure donít overboost. If I do, a simple couple changes emailed back and forth and problem solved

Really appreciate all your feedback Scuby04STi, thanks man!
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:11 PM   #9
Scuby04STi
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Join Date: Aug 2012
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Location: Portland*
Vehicle:
2004 STi GTX3076R
Rally Blue

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
Nice setup, very similar to my Dom 1.5 build. I'm guessing the power comes on quick!

I would think more about blowing up your tranny before you swap. You can sell a tranny that's not blown, and if the clutch needs replacing, why not just pull things then and spend your clutch money, and funds from what you can sell your 5-speed for on that swap?

You can set up ahead of time and not have your car in the shop for too long. Of course, funds must be considered -- but you'll need them either way.
100% good advice if you have the funds. Hell sell a kidney . . .
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Old 08-25-2019, 07:19 PM   #10
tarwrxheel
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Member#: 501410
Join Date: May 2019
Chapter/Region: MAIC
Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
2013 WRX
WRB

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
Nice setup, very similar to my Dom 1.5 build. I'm guessing the power comes on quick!

I would think more about blowing up your tranny before you swap. You can sell a tranny that's not blown, and if the clutch needs replacing, why not just pull things then and spend your clutch money, and funds from what you can sell your 5-speed for on that swap?
Thanks! Iíll post graphs soon, it smacks me in the face once over 4,000rpms haha. I may have worded my plan poorly in original post. What you mention is EXACTLY the plan, but I didnít think about actually selling the transmission! One step closer thanks for reminding me. Yes, the clutch remains stock and once that goes itís straight to 6swap. I do NOT want the transmission to blow, if I was willing to risk it more, Iíd upgrade to a stronger clutch. Selling the 5MT just comforted my wallet, thanks dude!
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Old 08-25-2019, 08:59 PM   #11
Dave D.
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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Vehicle:
06 Red Ltd.Wagon
Dom 1.5xtr JJ tuned

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuby04STi View Post
100% good advice if you have the funds. Hell sell a kidney . . .
Of course I'm speaking in hindsight as someone who did blow his tranny up. The old 3rd gear strip...
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Old 08-25-2019, 10:42 PM   #12
tarwrxheel
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2013 WRX
WRB

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave D. View Post
Of course I'm speaking in hindsight as someone who did blow his tranny up. The old 3rd gear strip...
Was it the good old 2-3rd shift?

Shhhhhhh, be quiet. A guy I met today had 450ish whp on stock 5MT, 3rd gear boom �� BUT, He did say it lasted him about a year on that power! I was shocked...On stock clutch...Hope I’m that lucky! Not expecting it.

were you running stock clutch? Or even was it the 5MT?

NOW I’m Starting to think...since both my transmission and clutch are in great shape, is resale value considerably higher now ������*♂️

Last edited by tarwrxheel; 08-25-2019 at 10:48 PM. Reason: Wrong emoji ��
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Old 08-25-2019, 11:14 PM   #13
tarwrxheel
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Location: Philly/South NJ
Vehicle:
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Last edited by tarwrxheel; 08-25-2019 at 11:16 PM. Reason: Wrong picture try
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