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Old 12-07-2008, 07:36 PM   #51
williaty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JawKnee View Post
So...

If I wanted to add negative camber in the rear via the upper hole, how should the orientation be?

Thanks!
Opposite to the given instructions.
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:43 PM   #52
JawKnee
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Opposite to the given instructions.
It looks like I installed it in the same orientation as the instructions, but it looked like this would add negative camber and not reduce it per the instructions. I just want max negative camber in the rear

Maybe I need to get more than 2 hours of sleep a night
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Old 12-07-2008, 07:49 PM   #53
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Install it with the handle and arrow facing the opposite way the directions for the rear say if you're trying to max out the rear negative camber.
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Old 12-07-2008, 08:13 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Install it with the handle and arrow facing the opposite way the directions for the rear say if you're trying to max out the rear negative camber.
I understand what you're saying, but when I installed it and played around with it, it seemed as if doing what the instructions say yielded max negative camber instead of decreasing. I'll just leave it as-is I guess and mention it to my alignment guy when it gets aligned.
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Old 01-01-2009, 06:46 AM   #55
swr999
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Default Source for SPC camber bolts

Just a quick FYI: When I shopped around for camber bolts, I found pretty good pricing on the correct SPC bolts (p/n 81260) at $22.48 the pair (two bolts), here:

http://www.prostreetonline.com/a/sub...camber-kit.asp

During my search I found most vendors selling the same 81260 SPC bolts for ~$40-45 the pair (two bolts).
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:51 PM   #56
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Are the aftermarket camber bolts (ingalls 81260) used for both front and rear?

Thanks
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Old 01-01-2009, 12:54 PM   #57
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yes- they are both 12mm lobed bolts made to fit into a 14mm round hole

they go in the bottom in the front (in conjunction w/ the oe upper eccentric bolt) and in the top hole in the rear
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:32 PM   #58
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There is no need for after market front camber bolts for -1.5 or even a little bit more camber in the front. All you need to do is push/pull the tire during alignment to get rid of the slack in the stock bolts.
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Old 01-01-2009, 02:44 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXBob View Post
There is no need for after market front camber bolts for -1.5 or even a little bit more camber in the front. All you need to do is push/pull the tire during alignment to get rid of the slack in the stock bolts.
That seems to be true on the 02-03s, but not on the newer cars. BigSky noticed it first, I think. I don't recall ever hearing a good explanation as to why it's that way.
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Old 01-01-2009, 03:03 PM   #60
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I could get very close to -1.5 on my 04

here's a little device to coax a couple of tenths

http://www.restockit.com/Exhaust-Man...source=froogle

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...3&postcount=12
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:48 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
That seems to be true on the 02-03s, but not on the newer cars. BigSky noticed it first, I think. I don't recall ever hearing a good explanation as to why it's that way.
I can get -1.5 in my 02 w/ stock bolts. I have my strut towers set for max caster which gives me about -1.0 more camber in a turn.
Thank you for the great install info.
I ordered Crash Bolts from some website about 2 yrs ago and they did not come w/ the washers, or torque instructions. Of course they slipped at some point in every autocross. I even tried to make my own spacer to do the job of the special washer. I was able to get -3.0 which worked great except that I had to re adjust for street driving after each event back to -1.5. I tried not adjusting back w/ an old set of tires and the inside wore out to match the outside in about 200 mi. Since my Crash bolts did not come w/ torque specs I eventually stripped them out trying to put OEM torque on them.
When I went to REO1's the side walls were so stiff(for about 3/4 th of the season) that I did not need anymore than the stock -1.5.
I am not sure yet which tires I will use this year, but if they need help(and God knows I need all the help I can get), I may try C bolts again.
Mark
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Old 01-05-2009, 12:31 AM   #62
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Anyone have the part number for a OEM 03 wrx sdn Camber bolt?

I striped one of mine during a spring install.
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Old 01-05-2009, 08:57 AM   #63
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Front camber bolt: 20540AA090
Front camber washer: 20560AA040
Front lower / rear bolt: 20540AA100
Nut (all): 20550AA010
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:04 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UkNuck View Post
Front camber bolt: 20540AA090
Front camber washer: 20560AA040
Front lower / rear bolt: 20540AA100
Nut (all): 20550AA010
Hope you're right, cause I added it to the FAQ
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Old 01-05-2009, 03:38 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Hope you're right, cause I added it to the FAQ
so do I... I pasted them from a search but cross-checked them via google and they are posted as such in several places
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Old 01-19-2009, 08:54 PM   #66
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best bolts for 07 wrx tr . both front and rear .
thanks
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Old 01-19-2009, 09:08 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatus ravenous View Post
best bolts for 07 wrx tr . both front and rear .
thanks
Post this sense no makes.
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Old 01-21-2009, 04:32 PM   #68
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Okay, so to clear things up for me:

Having the handle of the washer and the top of the triangle (lobe) both facing outward toward the tire would be right. I think post #9 kinda threw me off and I just want to get it straight before I go in for an alignment.

And if that is correct, then the bottom bolt should not be touched while adjusting for negative camber, right? And I should still be able to get -2 degrees up front.

Thanks.
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Old 02-09-2009, 09:55 AM   #69
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Just installed some camber bolts this weekend.

A couple of things - getting the washer and the bolt in the hole required a bit of fanagling. I was trying to sneak the washer tab in behind the lobe, but the bolt needs to be pretty close to fully inserted before things get aligned and this actually happens. I was also a little paranoid to not crush the tab.

And on my camber bolts, there was no rhyme or reason to where that pointer triangle was pointed on the head of the bolt. Basically I just kept rotating the bolt until the I saw the knuckle was pushed out as far as it could go. You could definitely see the grime line determining the freshly exposed portion of the knuckle.

Some very rough measurements indicate that I'm getting as much camber via bolts as I did via the WL MaxC street camber plates with OEM-dia springs (-2.0 to -2.5)ish. Running wagon pinks and konis in wagon housings.

FYI on my SPC bolts the nut to tighten is 18mm, I didn't have an 18mm socket around for the torque wrench so I just tightened it as much as I could with an 18mm wrench. The bolt head is 15mm. So far so good - drove 250 miles round trip yesterday to an autoX, 4 75+ sec runs, no indications of slippage yet.
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:44 PM   #70
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What is the max achievable stock camber degree setting in the rear of a factory OEM 07 WRX?
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Old 02-15-2009, 10:45 PM   #71
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Rear is non-adjustable. Will be somewhere around -1.3 to -1.5
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Old 02-16-2009, 09:08 AM   #72
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max achievable (via camber plates) in the rear will be more than you'd probably ever need- -3+
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Old 02-18-2009, 04:25 AM   #73
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I'm on 18x9.5 +35 rims with 245/40/18 tires. I have my rear fenders trimmed to the max where it still looks OEM from outside. I don't want to do any visible pulling or anything. I don't have any camber plates but was able to get -1.8 out of the rear. I don't want to have to resort to buying camber plates or raising the car up higher, what exactly is the max stock though by adjusting the factory nuts/etc.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:38 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by |Disso| View Post
what exactly is the max stock though by adjusting the factory nuts/etc.
Here's your answer:
Quote:
Originally Posted by williaty View Post
Rear is non-adjustable. Will be somewhere around -1.3 to -1.5
"non-adjustable" = there are no adjustable camber bolts in rear of a stock car. You can add camber bolts (much less costly than camber plates or adjustable rear lateral links), as described earlier in this FAQ, and have an your favorite alignment shop dial in more negative camber for you (usually up to an additional one degree of negative camber).
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Old 02-27-2009, 11:04 PM   #75
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FAQ Updated with actually correct part numbers.
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