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Old 05-23-2011, 03:53 AM   #51
OrbitalEllipses
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They're working on more GR/GH stuff, if I recall they said they were sunsetting (is that the term?) GD production.
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Old 05-23-2011, 09:40 AM   #52
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I still have hopes they will release a forward front LCA bushing for the GD.

--Adam
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Old 06-16-2011, 07:51 PM   #53
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subscribed.. how long has anyone else's stock struts lasted? i see they're not on there, but i assume most people have to replace before 150/200k
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Old 06-17-2011, 12:18 AM   #54
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Originally Posted by wrx surfwagon View Post
subscribed.. how long has anyone else's stock struts lasted? i see they're not on there, but i assume most people have to replace before 150/200k
What's your definition of lasted?

If you mean blown, I can't help you. The number I see around here for "useful life" of the stock struts is about 80k. After that point you're only seeing degraded performance.
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Old 06-17-2011, 01:22 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses View Post
What's your definition of lasted?

If you mean blown, I can't help you. The number I see around here for "useful life" of the stock struts is about 80k. After that point you're only seeing degraded performance.
Yeah, since about 100K mine have just been a steady decline. They're at 130K now, and are finally tapped out, but not officially "blown".
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Old 06-17-2011, 03:17 PM   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by adamkob32 View Post
I still have hopes they will release a forward front LCA bushing for the GD.

--Adam
I forgot to comment on this. I've got every bushing they make so far, and I think this would be a great lower cost alternative to an ALK. After reading tons about the theory on how the ALK works, I feel it's very sound, but can't help but wonder how many owners are happy with the results simply because it's also a bushing upgrade.

Especially on a car with some miles, taking out that stock marshmallow and replacing it with firm urethane has got to be worth a huge improvement in response by itself.

Any thoughts on this from Clint or Tony?
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Old 06-20-2011, 03:45 AM   #57
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best thread ever - Thanks for putting this info out there. Are you guys going to offer a refresh package at some point?
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Old 07-07-2011, 12:42 AM   #58
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best thread ever - Thanks for putting this info out there. Are you guys going to offer a refresh package at some point?
+1
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Old 11-18-2011, 05:49 PM   #59
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So I finally got some time to work on the package lots of folks have been requesting.... sorry it took so long guys.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:19 PM   #60
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I'm not sure how difficult most of these things are to do, but we've dipped into winter here and I don't have a heated garage so my tinkering time may be up for a few months. That being said, does anyone have any idea how much time a dealership might charge to change all of these? Just wondering a ballpark number if anyone is so inclined.
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Old 11-21-2011, 05:22 PM   #61
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Pull on your big girl panties and work in your garage! No joke, there's a portion of each winter when I'm working in the garage that frost forms on the tools if I breathe on them. It sucks, but if you dress properly, it works out ok. You do have to be pretty careful with plastics at those temps, though.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:17 AM   #62
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Pull on your big girl panties and work in your garage! No joke, there's a portion of each winter when I'm working in the garage that frost forms on the tools if I breathe on them. It sucks, but if you dress properly, it works out ok. You do have to be pretty careful with plastics at those temps, though.
The temps weren't just a concern for myself, but mainly for the parts I'd be working with. I don't mind being out in the garage, I worked outside most of the day last weekend and it was 10 degree's outside, but it doesn't seem smart to do this work in the bitter cold...just seems like things wouldn't work the way they should at that or much colder temps. Not to mention I haven't done this kind of work before so I'd be adding my newbness to the mix.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:12 PM   #63
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Truly, the only thing that really ever minds are like the plastic panels for the interior and sometimes the little clips on the wiring harnesses. Nothing involved in suspension hardens/embrittles at the kind of temperatures you're talking about.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:26 PM   #64
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subscribed
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:04 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twnboarder View Post
I'm not sure how difficult most of these things are to do, but we've dipped into winter here and I don't have a heated garage so my tinkering time may be up for a few months. That being said, does anyone have any idea how much time a dealership might charge to change all of these? Just wondering a ballpark number if anyone is so inclined.
Have you thought of any about adding some insulation, filling some gaps, and getting a little space heater. Not partcularly difficult or expensive. Just a thought.
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Old 02-17-2013, 04:11 PM   #66
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Searching today for a DIY link to replacing the FCA bushings. Really appreciate the start of this thread by TIC, as well as the email from Tony. Reading the list has me rethinking the steering rack bushings. I've got the front end all opened up for some other replacements, so it would make sense now, but seemed to be rather involved. Is there a DIY for the steering rack bushings?
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:11 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dagger108 View Post
Searching today for a DIY link to replacing the FCA bushings. Really appreciate the start of this thread by TIC, as well as the email from Tony. Reading the list has me rethinking the steering rack bushings. I've got the front end all opened up for some other replacements, so it would make sense now, but seemed to be rather involved. Is there a DIY for the steering rack bushings?
There was one from WAY back in the day by nluhr. search on his userid.
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Old 02-20-2013, 02:34 AM   #68
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Originally Posted by Turn in Concepts View Post
There was one from WAY back in the day by nluhr. search on his userid.
Thanks for the tip. Search gave hours of other interesting reads, much of it way beyond my DD mode, but no luck for me wrt FCA. What led me to the search was the "gunshots" when trying to remove the bolts - like removing a ball joint. Thought I broke something, so called it a day. The next day/yesterday, I went back at it. The 1st bolt had 3 gunshots before it finally came free. I think there was only 1 other gunshot on the other 5 bolts, so not too bad.

Spent a bit of time getting most of the front bushing remove. Propane was a great suggestion - Dad says I'm a pyro :-) Still have the front sleeves and the whole back units to do. Eventually, I'll get to put this thing back together. My Swift springs came today. Just 7 more parts to go.

Just noticed it was you (TiC) that posted. Thanks for all the help you all have been recently.
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Old 05-21-2015, 05:28 PM   #69
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subscribed
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:59 AM   #70
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It's so painful to see this thread again. It reminds me of all I went through to update the bugeye, and now she's gone. Well, not completely, but in essence it is for me. My wife was rear ended 2 weeks ago and pushed into the car in front of her, so the hatch is gone as well as damage to all 4 corners. Wish I could get the parts off it for another, but that's not my situation right now. Not sure when it will be on the market.
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:06 AM   #71
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subscribed
Noob, scroll to top of the thread / Thread Tools / Subscribe to Thread
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:34 PM   #72
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Old 07-11-2017, 11:01 AM   #73
GarrettPlusBugeye
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Was really hoping this thread would continue.
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Old 04-11-2019, 07:07 PM   #74
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Default 02 WRX Wagon - just bushings vs whole parts

I want to do a suspension refresh on my '02 WRX Wagon. It's got 266K miles on it. I've done a little bit of work over the years: alternator, a/c compressor, battery, a/c condenser, timing belt, light bulbs, valve cover gaskets, vacuum hoses, KYB Excel G struts, the strut hats, motor mounts, tranny mount, pitch stop, a bushing in the shift linkage, one of the front axles, and the right rear trailing arm. Other than that, I'm pretty sure it's all original. I don't want to "upgrade" - back to "original", or as close as I can get, is fine for me. I am not that spirited of a driver. The most abuse the car sees is driving on dirt roads to get to hiking trailheads and river put-ins.

I asked my local shop (not the dealer, though I can use them if it's advised) for a quote on the parts & labor (I gave them a list based on this thread). They declined to replace just the bushings for all of the control arms (front control arms, trailing arms, lateral links), quoting to replace the entire assembly in each case. They did quote me for replacing the steering rack and rear differential mount bushings. Also the stabilizer bar bushings, but I can do those myself. Should the tie rod ends be replaced along with all the rest of this?

Do you recommend going that route - replacing the front entire control arm with a kit that includes the bushings, and the trailing arms & lateral links with the bushings already installed? The metal is in good condition. There is no rust on the car at all. But if it's "better", I'm fine with replacing the entire part. If you recommend replacing the entire part, which brand should I go with? I see Moog and Mevotech, but these look different and I am not sure these would be an exact fit.

What I will probably do is buy all the parts and then have the shop install them. I may decide to do it myself, but let's leave that out of the discussion for now.

I apologize if any of this has been covered elsewhere on this site. I searched but not much is posted about the wagons, just that some things are different than on the sedans.

Thank you for any advice you have to offer.

Last edited by tcmaresh; 04-11-2019 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 04-12-2019, 11:04 AM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tcmaresh View Post
I want to do a suspension refresh on my '02 WRX Wagon... (SNIP)
If you were able to do the struts on your own, then you can definitely do the bushings, especially with the lack of rust you're reporting. A cheap bushing puller from harbor freight would help, or even a home made one using threaded rod, a couple nuts, an old socket, and a stack of washers.

And before taking tons of time trying to get that long, lower lateral arm bolt to break loose, do yourself a favor and just cut it with a sawzall. I freaking HATE that bolt!
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