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Old 04-17-2020, 08:48 AM   #3701
Rick2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
If anyone is running an H6 on a US factory ECU with a manual transmission, and still has their TCM lying around, if you could PM me I'd appreciate it. I have a theory I'd like to test that may clear the CEL for the neutral position sensor. You'll need a 5 pin relay and some experience playing with wiring.

I never had a code for the neutral position sensor
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:54 AM   #3702
Kito818
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I never had a code for the neutral position sensor
Lol, are you getting a no start condition then? If you've deleted the PID for it then what is the problem?
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Old 04-17-2020, 08:56 AM   #3703
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I did have the code at first but when I removed tcm it disappeared. Obviously ecu is feeding tcm need to get in it now
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Old 05-10-2020, 06:49 PM   #3704
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Default Ez30d swap

Hey, I am starting my Ez30d swap out of a 2002 outback sedan into my 98 forester (I know this is a impreza thread but shouldnt be much different, delete if not allowed) I am not keeping ac and I am thinking about using the holden astra electric P/S pump. The plan is to use the stock ecu. I have the the donor car so that makes things a lot better! Who has done this swap and what did you run into during the swap that you didn't expect? Any general advice on the swap would be pretty cool as well! Just trying to get as much knowledge from as many sources as possible!


Thanks in advance

Last edited by yonak44; 05-10-2020 at 06:56 PM.
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Old 05-10-2020, 07:49 PM   #3705
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yonak44 View Post
Hey, I am starting my Ez30d swap out of a 2002 outback sedan into my 98 forester (I know this is a impreza thread but shouldnt be much different, delete if not allowed) I am not keeping ac and I am thinking about using the holden astra electric P/S pump. The plan is to use the stock ecu. I have the the donor car so that makes things a lot better! Who has done this swap and what did you run into during the swap that you didn't expect? Any general advice on the swap would be pretty cool as well! Just trying to get as much knowledge from as many sources as possible!


Thanks in advance
Should be a bolt in swap as long as the engine clearances are there you should be fine. Deleting the A/C and power steering pump, to go with the electric one, will mean you'll need find a shorter belt for the alternator. There may be some issues with ECU codes, but I'm not sure how critical they are in the Aussy area, Holden gave it away. Throttle body cable may be an issue, and finally you'll need to get some exhaust work done, but, again depending on engine bay sizes, you may be able to pull the rad from your doner car and bolt that in, the rest of it is pretty straightforward and simple at that point I think. The year range and choice to delete things makes some things simple and others more convoluted, but overall I don't see too many struggles ahead of you.
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Old 05-10-2020, 08:01 PM   #3706
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Should be a bolt in swap as long as the engine clearances are there you should be fine. Deleting the A/C and power steering pump, to go with the electric one, will mean you'll need find a shorter belt for the alternator. There may be some issues with ECU codes, but I'm not sure how critical they are in the Aussy area, Holden gave it away. Throttle body cable may be an issue, and finally you'll need to get some exhaust work done, but, again depending on engine bay sizes, you may be able to pull the rad from your doner car and bolt that in, the rest of it is pretty straightforward and simple at that point I think. The year range and choice to delete things makes some things simple and others more convoluted, but overall I don't see too many struggles ahead of you.

Ya, here in MN as long as it drives it can be on the road so as long as the codes aren't critical I should be fine. I heard good things from a friend about that pump that's why I want to try that one out. I plan on doing the exhaust once I get the engine in there and can get exact lengths and angles. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the wiring as I haven't done an engine swap before but I think my wiring knowledge should carry me through the project just hoping there isn't any big surprise moments that are weird to track down. I am planning on mocking up a belt with the current belt so I can get an good measurement and then take that to the parts store to see what they have.
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Old 05-10-2020, 10:08 PM   #3707
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yonak44 View Post
Ya, here in MN as long as it drives it can be on the road so as long as the codes aren't critical I should be fine. I heard good things from a friend about that pump that's why I want to try that one out. I plan on doing the exhaust once I get the engine in there and can get exact lengths and angles. The biggest thing I'm worried about is the wiring as I haven't done an engine swap before but I think my wiring knowledge should carry me through the project just hoping there isn't any big surprise moments that are weird to track down. I am planning on mocking up a belt with the current belt so I can get an good measurement and then take that to the parts store to see what they have.
You should be able to source the majority of your wiring from the doner, there shouldn't be a huge need to fabricate the wiring, though you may need to extend some wires but thats noting some butt connectors and shrink tube can't get you through. You'll have to do some fab work for the Holden P/S pump pressure sensor, but you could technically even skip it, just check your fluid level regularly. What I'm not entirely sure on is your ignition system, in my 09 Impreza theres an imobilizer that runs through the BCU then through a different harness to the fuse box in the engine bay out to the starter, wasn't a part of the main engine harness, I'm not sure how it is for the EZ30D, I used the EZ30R, but you should look into that and then how your rad fans are wired. I also don't know the CAN situation on your cars. You'll need to run a few wires to the gauge cluster for your tach, and water temp sensors though, so find the right wires from the doner and get as much of it as you can. I'm sorry I dont know your doner and transplant vehicles well enough to tell you exactly what you'll need, but you shouldn't have too many issues or fab work overall. Take it slow and don't allow yourself to get in a rush and you'll be fine.

Do let us know how it goes though!
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Old 05-10-2020, 10:21 PM   #3708
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Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
You should be able to source the majority of your wiring from the doner, there shouldn't be a huge need to fabricate the wiring, though you may need to extend some wires but thats noting some butt connectors and shrink tube can't get you through. You'll have to do some fab work for the Holden P/S pump pressure sensor, but you could technically even skip it, just check your fluid level regularly. What I'm not entirely sure on is your ignition system, in my 09 Impreza theres an imobilizer that runs through the BCU then through a different harness to the fuse box in the engine bay out to the starter, wasn't a part of the main engine harness, I'm not sure how it is for the EZ30D, I used the EZ30R, but you should look into that and then how your rad fans are wired. I also don't know the CAN situation on your cars. You'll need to run a few wires to the gauge cluster for your tach, and water temp sensors though, so find the right wires from the doner and get as much of it as you can. I'm sorry I dont know your doner and transplant vehicles well enough to tell you exactly what you'll need, but you shouldn't have too many issues or fab work overall. Take it slow and don't allow yourself to get in a rush and you'll be fine.

Do let us know how it goes though!

Thank you! Im doing all of the research I can possibly do while doing this project and am in no rush! I might put a post together as it progresses to keep everyone updated!
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:03 PM   #3709
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Does anyone have some good photo's of exhaust manifold routing for a single turbo ez30 application? I recently found the raptor headers leave a lot to be desired as far as ground clearance so i'm looking at modifying them or starting over to do something similar to the Perrin build.

I'm also open to other idea's aside from a low mount in front of the engine, id prefer to avoid that.

I did some painters tape mock up of mounting the turbo in the area of the ABS pump with the up pipe coming from the front side of the engine, over the passenger side head however short of venting the entire side of the hood I feel that would always have heatsoak issues

I also looked at mounting it in the OEM batt location however that is still rather far forward and not preferred

Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
-Jacob
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Old 05-12-2020, 07:11 PM   #3710
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jvangelder View Post
Does anyone have some good photo's of exhaust manifold routing for a single turbo ez30 application? I recently found the raptor headers leave a lot to be desired as far as ground clearance so i'm looking at modifying them or starting over to do something similar to the Perrin build.

I'm also open to other idea's aside from a low mount in front of the engine, id prefer to avoid that.

I did some painters tape mock up of mounting the turbo in the area of the ABS pump with the up pipe coming from the front side of the engine, over the passenger side head however short of venting the entire side of the hood I feel that would always have heatsoak issues

I also looked at mounting it in the OEM batt location however that is still rather far forward and not preferred

Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
-Jacob
Checkout the Mighty Car Mods Super Gramps build project on youtube. They did a 3.6 turbo build with the turbo in behind the right side(from driver's perspective) head. Might give you some ideas for where/how you want to do yours.
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:43 AM   #3711
nvmylh
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Hey guys,
Can someone here please confirm for me what the diameter of the exhaust port is on the 3-port exhaust ez30's?

I've searched this thread and google. I've heard 38mm but am not certain. I am looking to make some simple turbo headers like the might car mods supergramps and have a bunch of 1.5" OD tube lying around. Super gramps used 1.75" but they mentioned it didnt really need to be that big.. I wont be building a 400kw type thing, max I would expect is about 230-250rwkw. Cheers
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Old 05-26-2020, 02:55 AM   #3712
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvmylh View Post
Hey guys,
Can someone here please confirm for me what the diameter of the exhaust port is on the 3-port exhaust ez30's?

I've searched this thread and google. I've heard 38mm but am not certain. I am looking to make some simple turbo headers like the might car mods supergramps and have a bunch of 1.5" OD tube lying around. Super gramps used 1.75" but they mentioned it didnt really need to be that big.. I wont be building a 400kw type thing, max I would expect is about 230-250rwkw. Cheers
1.5" is about correct. I have some OBX headers that use 1.5" tubing. I can measure them when I put the new clutch in sometime this week, not sure exactly when I'm going to get to do that, but 1.5" is plenty large enough and obviously, from MCM, we know running the 1.75" isn't too big. With you not trying to reach the big numbers I doubt you will even notice the difference in the diameters anyway.
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Old 05-26-2020, 07:51 PM   #3713
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Thanks Kito! I'm assuming thats 1.5" OD pipe?

I was looking around last night and found the 32NB (1 1/4") sch10 pipe has an inside diameter of 36.7mm vs 1.5" pipe which is 35mm and is about half the price which is awesome. BUT I still want to confirm the actual exhaust port diameter which I think this is going to be 38mm. If it is thats only about 7% larger in area than the 32NB pipe..

If you could grab a photo of the port with a ruler on it that would be awesome, we can finally confirm the size for everyone in future!
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Old 05-26-2020, 08:24 PM   #3714
Kito818
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nvmylh View Post
Thanks Kito! I'm assuming thats 1.5" OD pipe?

I was looking around last night and found the 32NB (1 1/4") sch10 pipe has an inside diameter of 36.7mm vs 1.5" pipe which is 35mm and is about half the price which is awesome. BUT I still want to confirm the actual exhaust port diameter which I think this is going to be 38mm. If it is thats only about 7% larger in area than the 32NB pipe..

If you could grab a photo of the port with a ruler on it that would be awesome, we can finally confirm the size for everyone in future!
The clutch for my Impreza showed up today, but I work nights and wont be able to get to work on it until Saturday. I'll take a header off and take a measurement then.

EDIT: Seems I was wrong and they're 1.4" (~35.5mm)OD with the tubes having a thickness of 1.5mm so the tube ID would be around 32.5mm. Here's the link to the ebay listing for the headers I have, they say they're for the ez36, but they bolt to the ez30r(3 port exhaust) without issue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163667971250
Again I'll measure when I pick the car up again on Saturday.

Last edited by Kito818; 05-26-2020 at 08:34 PM.
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Old 06-01-2020, 06:44 PM   #3715
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Hey kito how did you go??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kito818 View Post
The clutch for my Impreza showed up today, but I work nights and wont be able to get to work on it until Saturday. I'll take a header off and take a measurement then.

EDIT: Seems I was wrong and they're 1.4" (~35.5mm)OD with the tubes having a thickness of 1.5mm so the tube ID would be around 32.5mm. Here's the link to the ebay listing for the headers I have, they say they're for the ez36, but they bolt to the ez30r(3 port exhaust) without issue. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163667971250
Again I'll measure when I pick the car up again on Saturday.
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Old 06-02-2020, 10:23 AM   #3716
Patrick Olsen
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I have a set of EZ30R heads in my basement and measured the ports at about 35mm. However, the heads have been ported, and I can't really tell how much material was removed, so that number may be off. It looked to me like most of the port work was done inside the exhaust ports, as opposed to at the openings themselves. I don't think the ports were hogged out much, but I can't be sure.

So I'm curious to see what Kito reports from his.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:32 AM   #3717
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The holes in the exhaust gaskets are 1.5 inch. Same with the EJ IIRC.
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Old 06-13-2020, 10:19 PM   #3718
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I've been lurking here for years and I finally started my build in November 2018 by acquiring a 2004 Outback H6 with a blown head gasket and a 1995 Impreza L coupe. The car will be used for SCCA Rallycross. Early in 2020 I did a 2wd->awd and Auto-> Manual swap on the coupe. I tore the entire H6 down and had the cylinders honed, the block/heads decked and the valve seats re-cut. The motor is back together now and in the original donor for break-in which I hope to do in the next few weeks.

I will be using Megasquirt III with expansion board for tuning. It looks like they now have support for the motor in a beta version of the firmware.

The question I have is this:
Has anyone done any tuning on the induction valve?
For those not using the OEM ECU, do you see lower than expected performance in the 3k-5k range?
Has anyone just used a different intake manifold?

I was unaware the induction valve even existed until I tore the motor down. I have been able to find very little information on it at all. It is a flapper type valve that sits in the intake manifold and from what I read diverts air to improve torque at different rpms.

What I've found so far:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/arch...p/t-20434.html
https://downtime.nasioc.com/forums/s...748385&page=41
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Old 06-14-2020, 12:40 PM   #3719
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Old 06-15-2020, 10:51 AM   #3720
Rick2020
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I've now got an n/a impreza 2.0 my ecu gave up in my legacy. I've still got the ez30d engine and would fit it into my impreza which is easy . It's just management I need now . I've nearly fabricated turbo headers for it to
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Old 06-16-2020, 08:12 AM   #3721
Patrick Olsen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fsmmx5 View Post
I was unaware the induction valve even existed until I tore the motor down. I have been able to find very little information on it at all. It is a flapper type valve that sits in the intake manifold and from what I read diverts air to improve torque at different rpms.
Well, it doesn't really divert air or change the flow path, it just divides the plenum into two chambers, or allows the plenum to be one large chamber. Plenum size has some impact on where the engine is optimized; a smaller plenum will favor low RPM performance, a large plenum favors higher RPM performance. In the carbureted V8 world, there are single plane (single, large plenum feeding all 8 cylinders) and dual plane (two, smaller plenums feeding 4 cylinders each) intake manifolds; the single plane intakes make more top-end power, but sacrifice some bottom end to do so. You can find all sorts of single vs dual plane intake dyno comparisons. Obviously, we're not dealing with carbureted V8s, but the principle is the same, and I think that's probably the most widely available example of intake plenum tuning that you can find.


Quote:
Originally Posted by fsmmx5 View Post
The question I have is this:
Has anyone done any tuning on the induction valve?
For those not using the OEM ECU, do you see lower than expected performance in the 3k-5k range?
Has anyone just used a different intake manifold?
My intention, if I ever get my car running, is to do some dyno testing with the valve closed and opened and compare the curves. I'm really curious to see how much of a difference it makes.

I'm not sure why not using the OEM ECU would cause lower than expected performance from 3k to 5k.

It is possible to put the '05+ 30R plastic intake manifold in place of the 30D's aluminum intake manifold, but it's not a straight swap, and I don't know that I've seen anyone actually do it. That's something I intend to try at some point - but again, first I need to get the car running.


Those links just went to the start of each thread for me. Here are more direct links to the discussions of the variable intake valve I found in each thread:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post353036 (very interesting stuff, albeit related to building a custom intake manifold that is trying to replicate the variable plenum feature)
https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...&postcount=770 (not much there, other than a mention of the actuation RPM, and that's just based on the SVX, so may be different for the EZ30)

Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 06-17-2020 at 01:35 PM.
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Old 06-17-2020, 05:18 PM   #3722
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Thanks for the clarification on behavior.



It sounds like maybe the thing to do is to somehow log what happens with the OEM ECU, at least the signal to the valve solenoid and then do something similar while tuning.



I have a tactrix but haven't really used it. I've been looking the last couple days and can't find a definition for the H6. I'll continue that on the back burner.



I'm going to break-in the motor and try to get the MS working with a base map and get fuel right. I will probably then take it to someone that knows what they're doing to get the timing tune right.


If I stick with it, I'll post back what I find.
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Old 06-17-2020, 06:42 PM   #3723
Patrick Olsen
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If you haven't already found it, there's a FB group called Six Swapped Subarus that has some decent information. I would say it's a bit more EG33 stuff than EZ30, but there is EZ discussion, so you may be able to find help for the MS tuning.
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Old 06-19-2020, 03:53 AM   #3724
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I got impatient and pulled the exhaust manifold off my ez30, far enough to see the ports. I. 99.9% certain they measure 35mm. I couldn't get the ruler right up on the face but close enough to see that it wasn't 38mm.
The rings on the gasket measure 44mm.


Edit: Here's the pictures, 35mm and the headers reduce to about 30mm just after the flange.





Edit 2:

I ordered a head bolt to measure for myself due to the million different reports on what thread they are. Here it is: M10.5x1.25 pitch, 136mm long. Same pitch as a bellhousing bolt.

Now to find some reasonably priced studs!




Last edited by nvmylh; 06-22-2020 at 08:33 AM.
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Old 06-19-2020, 10:07 PM   #3725
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Yes the OEM headers and cats are massive choke points. The raptor headers make a massive difference (if paired with a proper exhaust obviously).

I put an my16 sti catback on my legacy and that alone made a huge difference.

In short, the OEM exhaust is woeful.
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