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Old 09-22-2013, 09:20 PM   #826
Layvon
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I forgot how much of a bitch it was dealing with a reversed intake manifold.

Throttle body & alternator are not jiving.. I might have to shoot full race a message and see if they can sell me just a throttle body spacer out of their kit. ... I about had a temper tantrum in the garage because something so simple is such a biatch!

If there was a little more meat around the tb flange itd be easy but the damn MAP sensor channel screws you over.


GAh....
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:25 PM   #827
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There is a dude in the reversed Manu thread who made some TB spacers and had a few extra. Is that the only fitment problem your having with the mani?
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Old 09-22-2013, 10:34 PM   #828
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Kstech now makes some
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Old 09-22-2013, 11:18 PM   #829
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I've been making them out of Delrin.
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Old 09-23-2013, 05:49 AM   #830
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kellygnsd View Post
There is a dude in the reversed Manu thread who made some TB spacers and had a few extra. Is that the only fitment problem your having with the mani?
So far yepp. I PMd about 5 people about it last night.

Quote:
Originally Posted by reid-o View Post
Kstech now makes some
thanks Reid, I did not know that. will look into it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
I've been making them out of Delrin.
You have any left Allan? Where do you machine them at??

Thanks for the support guys appreciate it! I was pissed yesterday!!
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Old 09-23-2013, 06:12 AM   #831
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Ordered from KS Tech. They had a spacer for 35 bucks. That is What I feel it should cost, not $100 from someone else. Ordered the spacer and some nice bling hardware ...

Now to find a cheap alternator that hasn't had some weight reduction done on it
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:13 AM   #832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Layvon View Post
So far yepp. I PMd about 5 people about it last night. thanks Reid, I did not know that. will look into it. You have any left Allan? Where do you machine them at?? Thanks for the support guys appreciate it! I was pissed yesterday!!
I only have an 1/8"TB spacer left. I have 1/2" and 3/4" stock and machine parts as need at my house. The last parts I made were 1/2" top hat spacers for my Com C TH 's.

The KS Tech piece is a good price and they make nice stuff it's good to support them! Did you buy the longer SS bolts and gaskets from them?
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Old 09-23-2013, 12:02 PM   #833
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Yepp sure did. They look nice. Also bought bolts to hold intake Mani to the heads. $50 for everything. Not bad at all!!
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Old 09-26-2013, 08:00 AM   #834
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I know two kids that would be more than willing to cut you one, Jon made me a intake manifold spacer for the stand up, worked great. But im sure Cody and Jon both could cut you one on the CNC, just need to give them the specs.
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Old 09-26-2013, 11:28 AM   #835
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Thanks man. I found one already but good to know going forward
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:07 PM   #836
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Finally got around to catching up, good to know it was nothing major but looks like your taking the same route as me, changing out everything since its apart lol mine just proved to me that 10k and 28psi the block held out perfect now I have a few small mods to the heads and should be good to 9500-10k again this time hopefully it won't break from faulty parts, just have to order my gsc springs and titanium retainers and get it all measures up and the engine is ready to go in and start, lol getting the drive line done is another story haha trying to pay for a wedding save for a house and build a car is very hard
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Old 10-05-2013, 08:45 PM   #837
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Thanks Sean! I'm experiencing the same thing right now as well. Put $1200+ in fuel into my truck last month ... makes buying things tough. Ready to work closer than 6 hours away from home Lol.

Build has kinda come to a standstill. For now, Working on getting the heads done, I talked to Paul on Wednesday and they went to CNC shop Friday. Motor gets torn apart Monday / Tuesday. I'm not really expecting much to come of it, I already took out pistons so assuming the rods and crank are fine.
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Old 10-05-2013, 09:55 PM   #838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seanathanq83 View Post
Finally got around to catching up, good to know it was nothing major but looks like your taking the same route as me, changing out everything since its apart lol mine just proved to me that 10k and 28psi the block held out perfect now I have a few small mods to the heads and should be good to 9500-10k again this time hopefully it won't break from faulty parts, just have to order my gsc springs and titanium retainers and get it all measures up and the engine is ready to go in and start, lol getting the drive line done is another story haha trying to pay for a wedding save for a house and build a car is very hard
your revving your motor to 9500??? do you make power that high?
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Old 10-05-2013, 10:57 PM   #839
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^^Can you say Ej207?
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:06 PM   #840
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Progress is small but moving forward.

Did some more gutting today. Taking advantage of the fact Michigan doesn't require rear seatbelts I gingerly took mine out today. Saved all the pieces so if I ever need to put them back in I can.

Took out the stock fuel lines also. Not so gingerly I am thinking of running my three gauge wires through the three fuel line spots on the rubber grommet to clean up the wire entrances into the engine bay.

Anyone have any crafty ways of getting the two big black & brown wire connectors on left side of car to meet up with the main loom? I'm toying with going thru the water drain area by windshield ... wiper motors have been eliminated also. Fuse box probably going in fender well but not confirmed.

Question for everyone. How come no one has made a new lighter bracket that spans the rear seats that would incorporate a harness bar? I think I'm going to try to make this one better or make one out of aluminum because this thing is heavy as balls for what it does.
It is secured by 6 8mm bolts ( 12mm head ) so I imagine its as tough as the two 10mm bolts that secure the OEM seatbelt. Could add some support to this one if needed too. Just nice if I don't have to weld anything so I can still put a rear seat in.




Just tossing ideas right now because I finally got a chance to work on the car. I was kind of doubting if I still knew how to wrench because it had been so long since I has worked on anything.

Next weekend i will be looking into the clearance on my reverse intake manifold. I think the 8mm Grimmspeed are going bye bye for some 3mm or maybe nothing?!

Last edited by Layvon; 10-13-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:08 PM   #841
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thisisthenewsic View Post

your revving your motor to 9500??? do you make power that high?
I did any will again, I ran a 1.0 twinscroll on 207 with oversized valves and double D ported heads than me and Fuji worked together to make, really never ran it past 8500-9k in anything past 3rd gear just because there was no reason to go that fast, but I have done it in 4th for power pulls and tuning, helps a lot with the 6 speed gear ratios, the new turbo is a little bigger so should work just as well with it as well
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Old 10-15-2013, 02:17 PM   #842
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Hey leavon what are you meaning when you are asking about the brown and black plugs meeting the main loom???? Also on your reverse intake manifold what did you end up doing about the whole spacers/ tb spacer/ TB coupler??? I need to make something work I am going to be doing it but I'm drive by cable and will be running ac, I plan to run the MSI or beatrush motor mounts both drop the engine down like 1/4" or so which will help with hood clearance
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Old 10-15-2013, 04:20 PM   #843
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On 04 sti there is a black and brown electrical connector on the left hand side of the car. The fender well side of that goes back into the cabin I want to reroute it slightly. Fuse box is going in wheel well somewhere.

For mine I used a 1/2" spacer clocked 180°… 90° would have worked as well. I am gonna have to look into those mounts. I did not know that. Does it limit up pipe size?
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:26 PM   #844
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I loved my Saiku Michi Can from before. He makes good stuff. I had some minor design changes I wanted, so I am going to go with this route again, but a little more stout. I will be pairing the -10 Oil drains from the AOS and the turbo together with a yblock if space permits. I will be joining the two "clean air" lines with a -10 yblock again. The two oil drain lines will be stainless I think, the others will be rubber. Yay, more AN fittings to buy!! But it will be really nice, positive connections when I am done, no more sloppy BS dicking with **** on the dyno this time.

Version 1:



Version 2:




Drawn in Saiku Michi Form


The reason for the third is to eliminate any residual air to try to keep the intake / throttle body clean. I know it still has flaws, but after assessing the situation, it is this or a vacuum pump. I haven't hit the buy it now button, I know stretchedk7 and I were discussing this tonight, and a decent Hella Pump runs 150 bucks from Summit, so it might actually be cheaper, but if it dies, its another 150. This system is passive and runs mechanically so it is "impossible" for the 3rd tank to break.

the dual tank will be above pitch stop. the 3rd tank will be on where ABS / PS Fluid used to be, OR on the Strut tower bar ( Move the bung to position 7.5 )

Last edited by Layvon; 10-15-2013 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 10-16-2013, 10:03 AM   #845
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Keep in mind, with every 'system' or components you add you are increasing resistance to flow. With every increase in resistance to flow you are decreasing the systems effectiveness at removing oil vapor, and no matter how super awesome your setup (or anyone's setup) there will always be some oil vapor that makes its way through.

This is why I am a big proponent of the swirl pot. It allows maximum flow from the PCV system, with the least restriction, and good separation.

For CLEAN air you need to drop the big stuff out of suspension and then push it through a membrane filter. It requires expensive components and for a car is ridiculously excessive.
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Old 10-16-2013, 11:28 AM   #846
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Thanks for the advice. Here is a question for you in response.

Would I be better off putting a breather filter on the top of both? Vacuum pump?
The breathers will not have any suction, just open air, where as even though this might be a little restricted, it is still under some vacuum.
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Old 10-19-2013, 03:43 PM   #847
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Some new goodies for the build. Nothing too crazy, but essential.

Trailer, 2003, w/ new tires, 4,000 pound winch with box, and ramps. Will need to modify ramps to be a bit longer to get my car on. Paid $1500. I feel like it's a good deal. Minimal rust bubbles.



Outfront rails came in also for the 2.5i intake. $170 shipped w/ 4 -6 AN fittings, really fair price for these. Get em before they realize it and jump to the $200 pricepoint fuel rails historically have been. Since nothing is perfect, I wish they would have used metric bolts to hold the chrome piece to the body, just to keep tools easy ,but I'm sure it is cost / availability related.

Fitment was 100%




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Old 10-22-2013, 10:31 PM   #848
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Looking good, glad things are working out.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #849
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Double phone post.
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Old 10-23-2013, 07:22 PM   #850
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Looking good, glad things are working out.
Yeah so far so good, thank you. Need to test fit the hood this weekend to see if I can run any phenolic spacers Lol. I know its not gonna fit with my 8mm on there.
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