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Old 06-23-2011, 10:15 PM   #1
Clutch920
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Default Crank pulley wobbling...

So I replaced my belt alternator belt not too long ago because it was consistently squealing and just driving me nuts. Replacing it fixed the squealing for a few days, but it soon came back, and worse than ever. Upon popping the hood i noticed the crank pulley wobbling just a little bit, enough to make the belt squeak, and I noticed there's black dust all over from the belt.

My question is how I go about fixing this. I've tried doing searches but can't seem to find any walkthroughs or explanations. Is this something I can do in my garage? I know that some pulleys have bearings, is this one any different? Thanks for any and all help. I am still a noob and I'm still learning everything about my Subie. Thanks.
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Old 06-23-2011, 11:38 PM   #2
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There is no pulley bearing. Odds are it is NOT wobbling and you are seeing the timing mark play illusion tricks with your eyes.
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Old 06-24-2011, 12:51 PM   #3
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tighten crank pulley bolt..
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:06 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaxscuby View Post
tighten crank pulley bolt..
I already tried tightening the bolt, it seems to be tight enough. Is there anything else that could be making this noise from that pulley? i know it's that particular pulley, because if I spray something like wd-40 in between the block and the pulley it immediately stops squealing...
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Old 06-24-2011, 02:12 PM   #5
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2195400


Take it off. Find out why. Replace worn key or whatever is causing it. It may wobble slightly forever and never get worse. Or...It will mill out the entire inside of the pulley with the remnants of the key, take the face off the sprocket and make a huge ****ing mess. Which was my case.


My pulley doesn't even have the illusion of wobbling from any angle. But its now a kartboy pulley with custom hardware.

Last edited by 02redwagone; 06-24-2011 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 06-24-2011, 10:04 PM   #6
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Torque crank bolt to 85ft lbs by removing all drive belts, hold pulley with a chain type vise grip, i used an old cut up timing belt to wrap the crank pulley before i lock the chain vise grip. It would help to get somebody to hold pulley while you torque. Good luck!
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Old 06-25-2011, 01:23 PM   #7
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Thanks Verendia, i'll have to try this. I'm going to take the pulley off first to make sure it's not warped or anything, and to make sure the keyway was installed properly (these pulleys were already on the car when I bought it, so I have no idea).
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Old 03-15-2012, 09:47 PM   #8
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Sorry to bump an old thread...but what was the result of this?
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Old 03-15-2012, 10:56 PM   #9
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I don't know about him specifically, but the crank pulley is made out of multiple pieces - inner steel, rubber isolator, and outer steel. With age, or sometimes contamination or defect, the layers can come unglued (so to speak) and the outer chunk can move around on the inner chunk. The purpose of this pulley is to dampen harmonic vibrations in your motor as well as run your accessories, so if the pulley itself is coming apart it's not doing either of its jobs very well. Replace the pulley if this is the case.
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Old 03-15-2012, 11:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CosmoTheCat
I don't know about him specifically, but the crank pulley is made out of multiple pieces - inner steel, rubber isolator, and outer steel. With age, or sometimes contamination or defect, the layers can come unglued (so to speak) and the outer chunk can move around on the inner chunk. The purpose of this pulley is to dampen harmonic vibrations in your motor as well as run your accessories, so if the pulley itself is coming apart it's not doing either of its jobs very well. Replace the pulley if this is the case.
Thanks. Exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 03-16-2012, 03:16 AM   #11
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The crank bolt should be tightened to 110. 100 is the specification.
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Old 03-19-2012, 01:23 AM   #12
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Just changed mine cause of the delaminating. Rubber completely worn away. $227 for a crank pulley from Subaru
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:04 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lowwill View Post
Just changed mine cause of the delaminating. Rubber completely worn away. $227 for a crank pulley from Subaru

Could have had a kartboy.
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Old 03-19-2012, 02:11 AM   #14
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throw on a perrin and save 4 pounds they cost about 100 bucks i think
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Old 09-15-2012, 07:00 PM   #15
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This just happened to me getting on the highway with my EJ25 in my outback, first clue was I lost my belt for the Alt & PS pump, so I found a safe place to pull over and the crank pulley is wobbling, and just as I was slowing down I heard something fly under the car which I expect is the pieces of rubber from the crank pulley?

Because I thought the bolt was loose but it was not.


I was about 8 or so miles from home. I think I'm going to go with a lightweight one now, However I don't know if the key got messed up? I don't think it did since the bolt did not move? I will say I started getting misfires on all 4 cylinders a day before it happened.
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Old 11-18-2019, 11:47 AM   #16
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I noticed my crank pulley was wobbling yesterday. I took it off and re-tightened it. It was not loose at all to begin with, but I re-cleaned threads and oil soaked the 22mm bolt. The key slot in the pulley was totally fine (undamaged).

It was still wobbling after re-tightening so I threw on a new pulley I happened to have sitting here, and the wobble is gone. So I believe in my case the wobble was in the pulley itself, not in the crank, the woodruff key or anything like that.

I will add that my pulley is 200k+ miles old and I tighten my PS/alt belt very tight because it has a Supercharger on it. This would certainly add stress to the entire setup.

One thing... I could not for the lift of me figure out how to loosen the crank bolt even with a company23 tool. I just didn't have the strength or leverage. Finally I used my longest breaker bar and I rested the bar on my shoulder, with a 2x4 between the bar and my shoulder to spread the load out on my body, then put my entire body into the bar and it broke open. Another thing. A mid depth 22mm would help. I have a shallow and a deep but with the company23 tool on there, a mid depth is desirable.
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Old 11-21-2019, 04:12 AM   #17
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Socket + breaker bar braced against something solid - chassis, floor, etc + blip the starter. It almost always works.
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