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Old 11-21-2023, 10:57 PM   #1
qudrcps1
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 531283
Join Date: Sep 2022
Default 2016 Crosstrek HVAC Control Airflow Mode Cable "Binding"

I've just swapped out the HVAC Control Panel after the 6-pin Fan Speed control connector I-15 "fried" (symptom - Max Fan Speed 4 died). The Control Panel and Connector were replaced.

Upon reinstalling, I fed the driver-side left Airflow Mode control cable through its "window" and clipped the end where it belonged (next to the end collar slot). Before reattaching the cable to the Airflow Mode control lewer "post", the knob worked freely, with each position "clicking" in place.

After attaching the cable end "ring" to the "post", the knob stops about 5 degrees short of detent (click), both rotated to the left (Upper Vents only) and right (Full Defrost). Intermediate positions click into place normally.

After this happened the first time, I took the radio out and repeated the process, and it still "binds".

Any suggestions?

BTW - this is the second time I have had to replace the same two parts in a year - the first time on a 2013 Impreza. I understand from the vendor of the replacement connector that this is extremely common, and has been for at least 5 model years from 2012 - 2017. The only way to prevent this is to rarely use Max Fan Speed 4.
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Old 11-22-2023, 08:09 AM   #2
Elbert Bass
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Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Down yonder.
Vehicle:
2016 Fuji Sunfire 03
Silver

Default

As far as your electrical issue: I can tell you from experience replacing more than my share of Subaru fan switch/pigtails you need to check the fan motor pigtail & replace the fan and resistor. Most likely the fan motor is drawing too much current and that is the cause of repeated failures.
Subaru dealer techs figure this out quick when they have to fix their first one that comes back for free...

As far as the mode cable - if it is an aftermarket head - then the cable is too long and that is why you probably paid less. Otherwise make sure the flange is in the proper slot on the housing.
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Old 11-22-2023, 02:54 PM   #3
qudrcps1
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Member#: 531283
Join Date: Sep 2022
Default Cable "Binding" Problem Solved (I think)

Thanks for the message.


The primary problem, that of the "binding" control cable seems to have resolved itself. The new Control Panel was installed on a cold day, outside in the mid 30's. The control cable itself was OEM that came with replacement Control Panel.

It snowed last night, then rained - a real mess. Having nothing better to do, I gave it a road test to thoroughly warm up the heater module and surrounding parts, including the control cables and Control Panel.

Magically, the Airflow control knob rotates, exactly as it should, with detent clicks at the extreme right and left rotation.


About the electrical issue. It seems bizarre to me that Iwire sells about 20 of the 6-pin I-15 connectors - a week!!! According to them, this has happened from 2012-17 and has *never* been addressed in a Service Bulletin. Like mine, this happens in the Max Fan position - 4, which is "straight through" and involves no resistors in the resistor module like 1, 2, and 3. Sorry to say, this just seems like a *bad design* which Subaru has had ample time to address in part updates for Control Panel. The only difference between the 2012-14 version (72311-FJ-050) and 2015-17 version (72311-FJ-500) that I can see is the color of the knob rings (black vs silver).

Cynically, I can't see that Subaru and their dealers/shops have any reason to fix this - it's "cash cow" for $300+ in parts and 6-7 hours of labor (ripping the dash apart, crimping/soldering in a replacement pig-tailed 1-15 connector $25) - given this has now happened to me twice, well beyond 100,000 and 7-10 years and well after any extended warranty has ended.

Last edited by qudrcps1; 11-22-2023 at 02:59 PM. Reason: OEM part source clarification
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Old 11-22-2023, 04:25 PM   #4
Elbert Bass
Scooby Specialist
 
Member#: 283429
Join Date: May 2011
Chapter/Region: South East
Location: Down yonder.
Vehicle:
2016 Fuji Sunfire 03
Silver

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by qudrcps1 View Post
Thanks for the message.


The primary problem, that of the "binding" control cable seems to have resolved itself. The new Control Panel was installed on a cold day, outside in the mid 30's. The control cable itself was OEM that came with replacement Control Panel.

It snowed last night, then rained - a real mess. Having nothing better to do, I gave it a road test to thoroughly warm up the heater module and surrounding parts, including the control cables and Control Panel.

Magically, the Airflow control knob rotates, exactly as it should, with detent clicks at the extreme right and left rotation.


About the electrical issue. It seems bizarre to me that Iwire sells about 20 of the 6-pin I-15 connectors - a week!!! According to them, this has happened from 2012-17 and has *never* been addressed in a Service Bulletin. Like mine, this happens in the Max Fan position - 4, which is "straight through" and involves no resistors in the resistor module like 1, 2, and 3. Sorry to say, this just seems like a *bad design* which Subaru has had ample time to address in part updates for Control Panel. The only difference between the 2012-14 version (72311-FJ-050) and 2015-17 version (72311-FJ-500) that I can see is the color of the knob rings (black vs silver).

Cynically, I can't see that Subaru and their dealers/shops have any reason to fix this - it's "cash cow" for $300+ in parts and 6-7 hours of labor (ripping the dash apart, crimping/soldering in a replacement pig-tailed 1-15 connector $25) - given this has now happened to me twice, well beyond 100,000 and 7-10 years and well after any extended warranty has ended.
I never charged 6-7 hours. Usually 3 hours for the head, pigtail, blower motor and resistor. That has been a problem going back decades for any manufacturer that feeds high speed directly from the bower switch. It works fine until the blower motor gets old, tired, and draws too much current.
Study up about how resistive/inductive loads in a series circuits react and you will understand why "straight through" high speed burns up. Some manufacturers go as far as to provide power for high speed blower through a separate circuit.
If you do not replace the blower motor (the real culprit) you will keep replacing switches and pigtails. That is not the design fault, that is poor diagnosis.

Last edited by Elbert Bass; 11-22-2023 at 07:12 PM.
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