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Old 03-06-2020, 01:33 AM   #51
JDMJNKY
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02 RSTI
MURK'D

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doesn't look to gaudy, great job man.
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Old 03-09-2020, 02:14 AM   #52
Kostamojen
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Chapter/Region: BAIC
Location: Fire Caves
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1999 OBS Camo Wagon
1993 FWD Base Impreza

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My stickers showed up, so I polished the upper doors and put them on. Debadged the trunk too, but it took some paint with the letters that have been on there for almost 30 years. Going to have to put a piece of vinyl over that probably...





The seat brackets and passenger seat finally arrived. Checked the weights, probably only saving 8-10lbs per seat in weight reduction, not as good as I hoped.





Since I had everything for the seats, I did some test fitting to see if there were any issues...





The brackets fit fine, but interestingly the driver side seat sits too far towards the door rubbing a little against the B pillar while the passenger side seat sits too far towards the center console and rubs the console. Its not a huge issue, but the driver side seat is off center form the steering wheel.

Won't bother me much, but I'm thinking I might remove the slider on the passenger side and hard mount it plus maybe add some spacers to tilt the driver side seat back a little for comfort.
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Old 03-09-2020, 02:39 AM   #53
Kostamojen
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1999 OBS Camo Wagon
1993 FWD Base Impreza

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So the engine noise that started up, here it is...


Asking around, folks are saying its the tensioner. I bought a stethoscope and the noise does seem to be concentrated in the timing tensioner area, so I took the timing belt off and overall took a bigger look at the motor.







The timing components look a bit old, as does the belt. The water pump was replaced with some POS chinese unit recently and used the wrong gasket. The oil pan is dented, rusty and has a cork gasket installed possibly causing a leak near the rear of the oil pan. There is also a leak from between the motor and trans. More possible leaks around the motor too, so I have a decision to make...

Seal up this motor, which could be expensive and a lot of work, or upgrade it.

Because its a 1.8L with 345k miles, I really don't think fixing up this motor is worth it. But I have a tight budget for this so I need to try and get as much as I can for as little as I can.

There are some JDM shops in the area that sell JDM EJ203's for $700 that have very few miles, and even JDM EJ233's for $1100 with almost no miles too. Problem is those are Phase 2 motors and don't bolt in, so I would have to use the EJ18 cylinder heads, send them off to get rebuilt and install them on whichever shortblock I use. I can using the timing components and oil pan from whatever engine I get.

The other option is to steal the EJ22 shortblock from my camo wagon I had built last year. That motor has less than 1000 miles on it and the timing equipment, PLUS a Killer B oil pan/pickup/baffle, plus a new factory oil cooler and an upgrade oil pump. I still would need to use the EJ18 heads because its a Phase II EJ22. This would be A LOT of work though swapping out motors from two cars, and I would go pick up a JDM EJ203 to throw in that car.

The last option is expensive, finding EJ22 Phase I heads and block, or maybe a EJ25 block with said heads and rebuilding the whole thing. I would probably have all that assembled at a shop, so that would be expensive.

Top this all off, I'm still really not that experienced with engine work... I would have to buy an engine lift at the very least.

Lets list out all the options in a simpler format:

1. Take EJ22 short block from wagon, put with EJ18 heads headgaskets plus head work. Delta cams? Put EJ203 in wagon $700.
Note: Most effort required, removing/installing/disassemble 2 motors in cars. Will have best condition (IE New) motor with KB oil pan/pickup, oil cooler and upgraded oil pump.

2. Buy EJ203, put shortblock in with EJ18 heads. $700 plus headgaskets plus head work.
Note: Medium effort required, will have to disassemble EJ18. Motor will be as new as EJ203 shortblock is.

3. Buy JDM EJ253, put shortblock in with EJ18 heads. $1100 plus headgaskets plus head work.
Note: Medium effort required, will have to disassemble EJ18. Motor will be as new as EJ253 shortblock is.

4. Find EJ22 dual port phase 1 with EGR, have it rebuilt and run it $$$$ (probably $3000+).
Note: Least effort required, second most expense.

5. Find EJ22 dual port heads with EGR and EJ25 shot block and rebuild it (probably $3000+)
Note: Least effort required, most expense though. Will net most power probably.


If anyone has any thoughts, feel free to post!
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Old 03-09-2020, 07:16 AM   #54
horsePOOGAS
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Sorry I don't have any thoughts on your engine situation... But I would like to know where you got your decal setup
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Old 03-09-2020, 09:42 AM   #55
subydude
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Why are you married to the EJ18 heads? Is it tuning or something else? I'd have guessed the cam sensors are basically the same reluctor style for all the NA engines, and if you have a tuning solution already you should be able to fix that.

If it's headers, an ebay setup is pretty cheap, and even if it needed welding I'd bet it'd be less than head work all said and done.

I'm always a fan of biggest displacement possible in autox, and since XS doesn't have displacement calculations for weight, there's no reason to hold it back.
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Old 03-09-2020, 11:44 AM   #56
Kostamojen
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Quote:
Originally Posted by horsePOOGAS View Post
Sorry I don't have any thoughts on your engine situation... But I would like to know where you got your decal setup
https://www.trackdecals.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
Why are you married to the EJ18 heads? Is it tuning or something else? I'd have guessed the cam sensors are basically the same reluctor style for all the NA engines, and if you have a tuning solution already you should be able to fix that.

If it's headers, an ebay setup is pretty cheap, and even if it needed welding I'd bet it'd be less than head work all said and done.

I'm always a fan of biggest displacement possible in autox, and since XS doesn't have displacement calculations for weight, there's no reason to hold it back.
I have the EJ18 heads which is why I'm married to them. The less I have to spend the better. Outside of Pick n Pull, I'm not finding EJ22 heads for sale.

Also I have to comply with California smog, which means O cant go swapping to phase 2 heads unless I do a full swap with wiring harnesses and all the related equipment and pass a BAR inspection to get the swap certified.

Not finding a tuning solution for OBD-I phase 1 cars that doesn't involve a full stand alone setup which won't pass visual. IF there was a plug n play type option I could easily revert to stock ECU then I could do that.
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Old 03-09-2020, 12:21 PM   #57
subydude
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
https://www.trackdecals.com/

I have the EJ18 heads which is why I'm married to them. The less I have to spend the better. Outside of Pick n Pull, I'm not finding EJ22 heads for sale.

Also I have to comply with California smog, which means O cant go swapping to phase 2 heads unless I do a full swap with wiring harnesses and all the related equipment and pass a BAR inspection to get the swap certified.

Not finding a tuning solution for OBD-I phase 1 cars that doesn't involve a full stand alone setup which won't pass visual. IF there was a plug n play type option I could easily revert to stock ECU then I could do that.
You should move I always forget how picky CA is for swapping stuff. SC literally allows you to send a letter to the DMV asking for registration for your tube frame car you built and as long as you check the "has headlights/taillights, etc" boxes you're good to go, no inspection, no emissions, just wild west style rules.

There isn't a tuning option afaik that's plug and play for standalone that keeps the OEM plugs for that generation, although you could likely get something made, but that'd blow the budget out.

If you're married to the EJ18 heads and there's enough meat on them I'd get the 253 bottom end then. You'll still likely need to figure out a way to tune given the extra air flow from a .7 liter change. I'm not very versed in the early stuff since all my experience has been with EJ205/207/257 stuff, but just in general any time you can avoid machining costs you're likely to save some money, even if it seems like you're spending more at first.
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Old 03-09-2020, 12:51 PM   #58
Aczwild
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'98 RS (Racecar)
'13 Sierra, '16 BMW 328i

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
https://www.trackdecals.com/



I have the EJ18 heads which is why I'm married to them. The less I have to spend the better. Outside of Pick n Pull, I'm not finding EJ22 heads for sale.



Also I have to comply with California smog, which means O cant go swapping to phase 2 heads unless I do a full swap with wiring harnesses and all the related equipment and pass a BAR inspection to get the swap certified.



Not finding a tuning solution for OBD-I phase 1 cars that doesn't involve a full stand alone setup which won't pass visual. IF there was a plug n play type option I could easily revert to stock ECU then I could do that.


I may have something real special for you sir at home - a set of JDM RS/RA EJ22T large factory ported dual port phase 1 heads. I can’t remember if I have the cams or not for them but they’d definitely fit the bill for what you “need”
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Old 03-09-2020, 01:15 PM   #59
Kostamojen
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1999 OBS Camo Wagon
1993 FWD Base Impreza

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Quote:
Originally Posted by subydude View Post
If you're married to the EJ18 heads and there's enough meat on them I'd get the 253 bottom end then. You'll still likely need to figure out a way to tune given the extra air flow from a .7 liter change. I'm not very versed in the early stuff since all my experience has been with EJ205/207/257 stuff, but just in general any time you can avoid machining costs you're likely to save some money, even if it seems like you're spending more at first.
I do have a local machine shop I use that is relatively inexpensive and extremely experienced

Ya, I am concerned about the .7 liter difference and the extreme compression ratio that may result from it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aczwild View Post
I may have something real special for you sir at home - a set of JDM RS/RA EJ22T large factory ported dual port phase 1 heads. I can’t remember if I have the cams or not for them but they’d definitely fit the bill for what you “need”
Ooh, that is interesting... Do you know the intake manifold bolt pattern for those heads???
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Old 03-17-2020, 09:54 PM   #60
Kostamojen
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1993 FWD Base Impreza

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Alright, been a bit since the last post, have a few updates...

Gutted the interior and went ahead and removed all the sound deadening. Took a day to remove everything, another two days to get rid of all the sound deadening plus any excess items and wires. I wound up removing all the open door warning wiring, the driver side seat belt warning wiring, plus the entire Airbag system after a clip broke on the Airbag control unit.





I lost track of a lot of the weights of items I removed... Randoming wiring, etc. and I haven't weighed the airbag system yet but all together its probably just under 10lbs (haven't removed the sensors from under the front fenders yet).

The carpet was like 12lbs, but also whomever had the car before threw some house carpet under the regular carpet... WTF!? So there was extra weight there for sure.

The sound deadining, including the rear trunk area, is indeed about 25lbs total. I wound up using a hammer and chisel for most of it surprisingly. I started with the heat method, but it was just too slow. Found that most of it came off really quickly with the chisel so I just kept going with that... Cheaper than dry ice for sure and pretty fast, but makes A LOT of debris flying everywhere! I would say dry ice is best probably but the chisel method is better than heat for sure.



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Old 03-17-2020, 10:08 PM   #61
Kostamojen
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1999 OBS Camo Wagon
1993 FWD Base Impreza

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So for the class I'll be racing in, XS-B, it requires having a finished interior which means carpet!

I researched the "lightest" carpet for the least amount of money, and people kept saying Ozite is the one to use. Its basically un-backed regular carpet. It does stretch pretty well, but man, I have to say that working with this instead of something pre-formed is a royal PITA.

When I put the new OEM carpet in my wagon, it literally takes like 5 minutes to pop it in after removing the old carpet... This took me about 2 hours for driver side and 1 hour for the passenger side to install, and while its a nice color its terrible in that it has wrinkles everywhere. But this is a racecar so I don't really care if its not perfect, and it was light (about 6lbs total) and cheap ($50).






After getting that handled over the course of two days or so, installed the 6OC rear seat delete! https://6ovrcrst.com/6oc-gc-rear-sea...1-coupe-sedan/

Its a little more of a PITA than I hoped as well, since the holes are not pre-drilled. I would up messing up 2 holes and having to re-do them, and I also had to drill for the third brake light (required by federal law) but that wasn't too hard. I'm not the most accurate with that kind of thing though, so I would have appreciated and paid for a little more pre-assembly.



After finishing that up, got the seats installed today. There were some issues with the seat belt buckles having to be bent in order for them to clear the center console (the seat brackets had them angled too close). Also I removed the slider from the passenger side and hard mounted it, saved a few pounds there.






Turned out pretty well. Still have to get the shifter linkage I have installed with the new shifter, knob, bushings, etc. Need to figure out a dead pedal and floor mats up front, going to use those bolts in the floor to hold down the mats which should work well.

The crappy $25 stereo with built in speakers worked right off the bat, no problems there. Worth the savings in weight for sure and still have something to listen too if needed.

The seat position is comfy enough too, so I should be happy enough considering they were so inexpensive.

Next up is installing my new hood, replacing the passenger side rear door, and the shifter linkage of course. Still not sure what to do about the motor and I doubt I'll be making the first event in a week and a half...
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Old 03-23-2020, 10:22 PM   #62
Kostamojen
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1993 FWD Base Impreza

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Got the aluminum hood on a few days ago, haven't been feeling that well so I haven't done too much more since Friday. The weight wasn't nearly as big of a weight loss as I had hoped...

I didn't get photos, but the stock hood weighed 35lbs while the Aluminum hood weighed 22lbs. The blockers on the vent were on the car when I weighed to the hood, and those were just under 1lbs for the pair so there. I was hoping for a few more lbs than that but it is what it is.





I also got around to replacing the passenger side rear door for the door I found. Its still not a perfect door, but its better than the one that was on there.





Finally, I'm not sure what to do with the silver hood yet... Thinking maybe turning it into a stripe of some kind? Here are a couple photoshops:




I kind of like the dual stripes, but IDK what I'll do... Have a few other things to take care of first.
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Old 03-24-2020, 09:09 AM   #63
XROLLER
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subscribe.
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Old 03-24-2020, 12:46 PM   #64
Foo_Blyat
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Originally Posted by Kostamojen View Post
A few goodies showed up yesterday and today

Rota Grid 15x8 +20 in Bronze!





A little surprise here...

A friend showed me a photo of some Miata guys running these wheels with Subaru 4 pots and a custom bracket with rotors about the same size as WRX rotors. So I figured, what the hell, and ordered a couple 4 pot calipers from Rockauto for about $115 each.




They showed up with two different finishes and one of them clearly had the Subaru logo ground off but for that price, I don't really care as long as they work. I had left over WRX rotors from the wagon so I don't have to buy new rotors, and pads are about the same as other Subaru pad prices so I basically saved about $100 because I WAS going to buy RS sized calipers and rotors and as you can see, turns out there is a TON of clearance with the 4pots!





Needless to say I'm a happy camper today. Plus I have a spare set of lug nuts so I don't even have to buy lugs for these wheels.
That's why I don't buy off Rock Auto. The left is actually usdm and uses a Subaru sticker while the right is jdm and has its raised lettering painted.
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