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Old 02-10-2014, 07:14 AM   #526
JMK508
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Its like a STI.....
but it doesn't break

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How many miles did you get out of this one?
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:23 AM   #527
juanmedina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JMK508 View Post
How many miles did you get out of this one?
I don't know really, not many maybe 10K? the engine is been in the car for over 2 years.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:41 AM   #528
JMK508
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Interesting.

I guess you can't expect them to last forever

What rods were you running?
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:53 AM   #529
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Originally Posted by JMK508 View Post
Interesting.

I guess you can't expect them to last forever

What rods were you running?
Stock rods. I guess they are good for 500 but not for 600
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:10 AM   #530
manitou
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
Yeah...I did
That sucks Heads ok? I guess it's time for that closed deck and some Pauters.
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:24 AM   #531
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That sucks, we had a car with an OEM block snap a rod with a 30r at ~450ft/lb. So I think you were doing pretty good!
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:43 AM   #532
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I told you those stock rods were no good....
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Old 02-10-2014, 08:46 AM   #533
juanmedina
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That sucks Heads ok? I guess it's time for that closed deck and some Pauters.
I don't know what to do, I am kind of tired of spending 3-4k every two years. We will see... I I fix it yeah I am going to get pauter of turbo tuff rods.

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Originally Posted by SW00P_G View Post
That sucks, we had a car with an OEM block snap a rod with a 30r at ~450ft/lb. So I think you were doing pretty good!
Thanks, is your car up and running?
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:00 AM   #534
manitou
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
I don't know what to do, I am kind of tired of spending 3-4k every two years. We will see... I I fix it yeah I am going to get pauter of turbo tuff rods.
Yep, bummer for sure, it does suck to be breaking stuff! If you're going to rebuild and keep it you might as well build it to hold more power than you have now. Kind of a power contingency plan.
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:25 AM   #535
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I'm pm'ing this, check your inbox, Juan.

Last edited by CatfaceType-R; 02-10-2014 at 10:40 AM. Reason: I like gtr's now, yes, I'm a sell out, yes, I said I hated gtr's before. LoL dealwithit.gif
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:33 AM   #536
juanmedina
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Yep, bummer for sure, it does suck to be breaking stuff! If you're going to rebuild and keep it you might as well build it to hold more power than you have now. Kind of a power contingency plan.
I don't know I have to think about it. I shouldn't push the car so hard, the expensive part is the heads. I already have some wiseco, pistons, brand new crank and a case. I knew this was going to happen sooner or later but I was hopping to last at least one more year.

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Originally Posted by CatfaceType-R View Post
Gtr's are pretty bulletproof at 600whp, if you don't launch it and don't do top gear pulls (pretty much only a land speed or runway track will allow this and doing it on the street is stupid) you could have a super reliable eng/trans. 600whp in that car will feel like a missile compared to a manual gearbox big turbo wrx. Those gtr's are sick, completely negating how well the thing handles...stock.

Do gbp intakes, ecutek, midpipe, e85. Bam. It's cheap (relatively), quiet, and reliable.
I agree with you but 60K + 6-7K in mods seems like a lot of money for 600whp.
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:42 AM   #537
Irv Weissmanhowerton
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I am in similar boat, on 3rd motor now. 2ND was a horrible experience with a closed deck outfront motor, now about 500 miles into my brand new everything Keegan longblock. Same problems as rons by him, pulled the header to find leaking oil out of the valve guide area, gross mess of oil, gasket and flange area soaked. No way im pulling the motor out again after a world of trouble on these last 500 miles and about 2 years, geez. Can't trust anyone I guess. Both aftermarket motors blames the outsourced head guy they choose for valve job. Good way to waste your customers hard earned money guys thanks, I'm so over the un-reliability. I wish I had a fresh 20k healthy motor stock car again. I would trust throwing 4-450whp on e85 daily with that. And spend only 1/4-1/3, the crucial part im sure is the robotic OEM building process from the factory, equally torqing everything together evenly and they have huge bins of slightly different size buckets, bearings, pistons, rings, to precisely choose for whatever clearance in whatever core it's going into

Stock motor 04sti 25kmiles at stage 1 power, then 30r til 60k, peaked out 485/496 11.2/127 dd with no less then 375, freaked out when I saw a slight compression drop 116,121,126,131 sold to a great offer for the sb.

Outfront closed deck, last about 8k miles. They "covered" meaning wasted my time and labor removing it, they slapped 1 new piston in without even splitting block in half. Lasted another 3k miles, (btw same story but no attempt to make right with another 3 of their motors at same time, under our acct their as well)

Keegan motor with alot of built goodies inside, especially headwork, lots of trouble shooting to even make it to this point of 500 miles

Last edited by Irv Weissmanhowerton; 02-10-2014 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:11 PM   #538
juanmedina
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Irv Weissmanhowerton View Post
I am in similar boat, on 3rd motor now. 2ND was a horrible experience with a closed deck outfront motor, now about 500 miles into my brand new everything Keegan longblock. Same problems as rons by him, pulled the header to find leaking oil out of the valve guide area, gross mess of oil, gasket and flange area soaked. No way im pulling the motor out again after a world of trouble on these last 500 miles and about 2 years, geez. Can't trust anyone I guess. Both aftermarket motors blames the outsourced head guy they choose for valve job. Good way to waste your customers hard earned money guys thanks, I'm so over the un-reliability. I wish I had a fresh 20k healthy motor stock car again. I would trust throwing 4-450whp on e85 daily with that. And spend only 1/4-1/3, the crucial part im sure is the robotic OEM building process from the factory, equally torqing everything together evenly and they have huge bins of slightly different size buckets, bearings, pistons, rings, to precisely choose for whatever clearance in whatever core it's going into

Stock motor 04sti 25kmiles at stage 1 power, then 30r til 60k, peaked out 485/496 11.2/127 dd with no less then 375, freaked out when I saw a slight compression drop 116,121,126,131 sold to a great offer for the sb.

Outfront closed deck, last about 8k miles. They "covered" meaning wasted my time and labor removing it, they slapped 1 new piston in without even splitting block in half. Lasted another 3k miles, (btw same story but no attempt to make right with another 3 of their motors at same time, under our acct their as well)

Keegan motor with alot of built goodies inside, especially headwork, lots of trouble shooting to even make it to this point of 500 miles
Wow,. that's what I am afraid of, fixing up the car and possibly having more issues.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:23 PM   #539
Crystal_Imprezav
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Told you to spend the extra few bucks on some I-beams when I had it apart. You actually got some pretty good life out of those rods for the power/torque levels especially with a 6466 on it.
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:24 PM   #540
manitou
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Have Crystal/ Jeff build you a new short block using the OF closed deck case. You were happy with his last motor, he does a nice job from what I know. You new the rods were your weak link and you were correct with that assumption. Now you can fix that issues as a couple others and continue on with your build.

I guess you could also put it back to stock and sell then part out the rest!
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Old 02-10-2014, 12:53 PM   #541
juanmedina
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Told you to spend the extra few bucks on some I-beams when I had it apart. You actually got some pretty good life out of those rods for the power/torque levels especially with a 6466 on it.
I know is my fault....

Quote:
Originally Posted by manitou View Post
Have Crystal/ Jeff build you a new short block using the OF closed deck case. You were happy with his last motor, he does a nice job from what I know. You new the rods were your weak link and you were correct with that assumption. Now you can fix that issues as a couple others and continue on with your build.

I guess you could also put it back to stock and sell then part out the rest!
That's an option. I have the money to fix it but I am kind of getting tired of this unreliability. Ron tune the car to produce low torque and I was hopping that would keep the engine together. I guess I was wrong thinking that the stock rods could handle 450wtq
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:24 PM   #542
SW00P_G
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Quote:
Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
I don't know what to do, I am kind of tired of spending 3-4k every two years. We will see... I I fix it yeah I am going to get pauter of turbo tuff rods.



Thanks, is your car up and running?
No, I'll be another month or so waiting for my PPG stuff to come back.
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Old 02-10-2014, 04:48 PM   #543
xluben
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
I know is my fault....

That's an option. I have the money to fix it but I am kind of getting tired of this unreliability. Ron tune the car to produce low torque and I was hopping that would keep the engine together. I guess I was wrong thinking that the stock rods could handle 450wtq
I told you they wouldn't!

Where's the carnage pics?
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:24 PM   #544
juanmedina
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Originally Posted by SW00P_G View Post
No, I'll be another month or so waiting for my PPG stuff to come back.
Ouch...

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Originally Posted by xluben View Post
I told you they wouldn't!

Where's the carnage pics?
Yes you did. I will post some pics when I have the engine apart this weekend.
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Old 02-10-2014, 07:37 PM   #545
manitou
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Originally Posted by juanmedina View Post
I know is my fault.... That's an option. I have the money to fix it but I am kind of getting tired of this unreliability. Ron tune the car to produce low torque and I was hopping that would keep the engine together. I guess I was wrong thinking that the stock rods could handle 450wtq
Juan, I'm sorry to be repetitive but this bit of unreliability was self induced! You'd probably still be running fine if you had used stronger rods but maybe not with that 6466! Haha!
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Old 02-10-2014, 10:44 PM   #546
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Juan I have my brand new motor stuff all up for sale in the classifieds if you need a good deal lol...
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:01 PM   #547
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Juan I have my brand new motor stuff all up for sale in the classifieds if you need a good deal lol...
And Crystal built it too!
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Old 02-10-2014, 11:59 PM   #548
TDagen
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Lol, no Crystal honed it, but another member on here built it.
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Old 02-11-2014, 08:01 AM   #549
JMK508
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Its like a STI.....
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So now your selling your car?....as a roller.

What are you thinking for your next platform....evo,GTr,supra.

All support higher HP a little better than the poor ej
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Old 02-11-2014, 10:55 AM   #550
Crystal_Imprezav
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Honestly you can't call anything over 600 reliable. Hell you can't call 500 reliable unless you paid 6 figures for the car and it came with that much power stock. You think Nissan would warranty a motor that blew up because you got bigger turbos and turned up the wick?

While an EVO 4g may have a more reliable motor, you would be rebuilding tranny's and your drivetrain every other week. I would venture to say 2 years out of the motor is way more time than you would have gotten with an EVO tranny at 600+ before something broke.

In this world if you want to go fast you have to pay to play. Skimping on one part at the time may seem like nothing because everyone always thinks "I am going to keep the power below that" and we all know how that works out with the mod bug, can be the difference between a $200 refresh to a $2500 new block + head work mistake. Been there, done that. Spend the extra $300 now and save your self $2000 later.

At the end of the day if you want something to be reliable you have to take all the external factors out. Figure out how to do it your self. Yes you will make mistakes but you will also learn from them. When its all said and done, you should have something you can proudly say you built ground up and when $hit hits the fan, you have no one to blame but your self. You learn from what failed or what you messed up and move on to make it better. Reality is, that is the only way you will ever have something you have call "reliable" with enough power to spank 90% of cars/bikes out there.

My advise to Juan is to put the car on the back burner and buy a reliable DD. Take the next year and assemble your spare motor. Ask questions in the built motor section if you get lost. Get it together and then take the time to build another motor for your backup. Once a year swap the two and improve the one you are refreshing. Once you get that down to a science, it should not run you more that $200-400 a year to keep a reliable engine in the car. This is if you want to have a 600whp suby you don't want to worry about breaking. Plan B is to turn the power down to 400 and live with it.

Last edited by Crystal_Imprezav; 02-11-2014 at 11:02 AM.
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