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Old 01-31-2015, 10:58 PM   #26
Shik
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2006 GT Ltd 5spd sdn
'15 WRX 6spd CWP, '02 WRX

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Quote:
Hmm... where to go from here...
I say you purchase a Subaru roof vent kit and have it fitted to see how well it fits the VA cars, then let me know!

And TE37's are timeless and look fantastic on these cars. Great choice!
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Old 02-01-2015, 01:44 AM   #27
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shik View Post
I say you purchase a Subaru roof vent kit and have it fitted to see how well it fits the VA cars, then let me know!

And TE37's are timeless and look fantastic on these cars. Great choice!
Hmmm.... definitely goes with the direction things are headed... (if only that fender was for sale and not something custom)



Also, thanks! Crazy watching how the TE37 keeps evolving, I wonder where they'll be going after the Ultra, hahaha.
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Old 02-01-2015, 02:57 AM   #28
tempted
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Kind of close to that fender.
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Old 02-01-2015, 12:22 PM   #29
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tempted View Post


Kind of close to that fender.


Unfortunately it is a faux wide fender, and Extreme Dimensions has always made crap parts.
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Old 02-07-2015, 05:03 PM   #30
Stickers
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Finally installed.
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Old 04-10-2015, 02:31 AM   #31
underskore
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2015 WRB WRX LIMITED
Package 22 6-Speed

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Car looks great Alex!

Wanting to see some shots from the front but showing the amount of poke... friend of mine has a set of RE30s from his Evo X that are 18x10.5 +25 and he has them for a price so low I would be a fool not to try them on! lol I'm just curious as to how much poke yours are showing... -1.5 camber is pretty damn close to stock so that isn't a problem.
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Old 04-10-2015, 11:57 PM   #32
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by underskore View Post
Car looks great Alex!

Wanting to see some shots from the front but showing the amount of poke... friend of mine has a set of RE30s from his Evo X that are 18x10.5 +25 and he has them for a price so low I would be a fool not to try them on! lol I'm just curious as to how much poke yours are showing... -1.5 camber is pretty damn close to stock so that isn't a problem.
Thanks! At the moment the front end is a bit messed up from an accident, I'm waiting for someone to release a nice aftermarket option. I'll take a shot tomorrow from front on, but this angle kind of shows the poke.



With the wider wheel and lower offset you'll be pushing an extra 14mm wider than this setup, so you'll most likely need 2-3 degrees camber to stuff them under the fender, or just run mexi-poke. My fenders are rolled and pulled, you'll definitely need that as well.
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:30 PM   #33
Stickers
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Slightly more helpful shot.

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Old 09-11-2019, 08:17 PM   #34
Stickers
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Four years later...

Becoming a parent and all that entails have dictated that the car get sidelined a bit for other things in life. Recently I have been able to work on the build again, including refinishing my TE37s and getting them back on the car. (hit me up if you need a set of OEM wheels with TPMS, btw)

I'm in the final stages of prep for my brake upgrade, and will be doing my best to document and see if there are any pieces of data I can provide to the community on it. I am no expert, but I figure we can all benefit from helping one another out on this. I am going to be going with West End Alignment in Gardena for the install. They've worked on my car in the past (second post is when they put my wheels on), and I trust them with getting everything buttoned up correctly.

Leftside pictures are Detective Coating, LLC. I worked with Jason and he was helpful every step of the way, including answering some questions I had about specs for a part unrelated to my powdercoating job with them. Work was completed in a timely fashion and with quality workmanship in mind. They've probably done thousands of sets of calipers at this point. Rightside pics are a different shop I worked with, as you can tell things didn't go so great.

I'm on instagram as @originalstickers if you want to chat or look at other photos of the car.

https://i.imgur.com/PCXILBC.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UAvai8t.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SaC9dPR.jpg

Last edited by Stickers; 09-13-2019 at 05:49 PM.
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Old 09-12-2019, 02:14 AM   #35
wuuusaa
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I'm a sucker for purple, i love the brembos.
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Old 09-13-2019, 03:56 AM   #36
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuuusaa View Post
I'm a sucker for purple, i love the brembos.
thanks! Can't wait to see what they look like against the white.
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Old 09-17-2019, 02:57 PM   #37
Stickers
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https://i.imgur.com/dN2Dji2.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/og3MpGt.jpg

One small note is to make sure that you prepare the holes for the pad pins. As you can see above, powdercoat will fill in the hole a bit and make it smaller.

A round file works great for the backside hole, and then some 220 grit sandpaper rolled into a tube can do the frontside one. The frontside hole jumps down to a smaller diameter, and the tip of the pad pin seats on this lip.

If you are installing your freshly powdered calipers yourself, this will save time on the day-of. If you're having a shop do it then it'll prevent them from having to take extra time to clean out the holes and charging you for the extra labor... OR preventing the shop from bashing the pins in with a mallet and then having a bad time taking them out the next time you need to change pads.


TL/DR - put all your stuff together before you reinstall. This will save you time and trouble.

Last edited by Stickers; 09-17-2019 at 05:18 PM.
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:14 PM   #38
Stickers
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Brake install, final thoughts...

1. There were still a few little tweaks to be made at the shop. Pads not sitting correctly, clips having seating issues, mounting surfaces oversprayed with powdercoat. They're all minor annoyances, so my best advice would be to go slowly and always check for proper clearances as you go. Darren at West End Alignment did a great job with my suspension years ago, and took time to make sure that this install went over clean and easy. Really appreciated little details like putting rubber caps on the hardlines when the stock calipers came off and how he spray painted the dust shields to give them an OEM appearance again.

2. The STI / Girodisc setup frees up quite a lot of weight. Rounded, front is 19lbs lighter and rear is 6lbs lighter (stock STI is 6lbs heavier). The change to acceleration and turn-in are pronounced. Losing weight in the wheels, suspension, and now brakes have all been great. Highly recommend going with lightweight pieces where there are rotational / unsprung weights involved. The G-stop hoses add an extra level of consistency with braking pressure, you won't know what you're missing until you try them out.


3. I had a fitting issue with the magic pads I bought from Girodisc. I thought that they'd fit up perfectly because they're advertised as being pre-cut to fit the rotors. All seemed fine on install, but then when they shifted around on the first test drive, there was some scuffing on the rotor edge. It could have caused further damage down the road, as one side would eventually interfere with the mounting hardware and the rotor hat. West End charged a bit extra for the service to grind down the pads, which I found fair because it was outside of the scope of the initial work. I contacted Girodisc and they offered me a discount in that amount on a future order. I appreciate that they were willing to extend the offer, as most places would direct you to their legal disclaimer and wash their hands of it. FYI to anyone else, triple check your pad fitment on the rear.

https://i.imgur.com/AjE22XI.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/06PlvNr.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oHy804q.jpg

Last edited by Stickers; 09-30-2019 at 06:41 PM.
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:54 PM   #39
Stickers
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For a couple of years now my suspension has been a bit noisy up front. I was fairly certain the front pillow ball mounts were the culprit, but since it was driving along fine I figured I'd replace when I had the chance and the funds. Darren at West End picked up on it as well, and confirmed my thoughts.

Ohlins sells replacement pillow ball bearings for $259 each. For $300ish, Mooresport sells an upper mount kit (both sides), and replacement bearings are cheaaaap when I need them.

Since the suspension needs to come out anyway, I figured I'd upgrade the springs to Swifts. After calling around a bit and getting measurements and information, I have the details below.

Ohlins
Front - 8" spring - 515 lbs
Rear - 6" spring - 400 lbs

Ohlins recommends no more than a 20% variance above or below the initial spring spec without a revalve. That leaves me with three different options for the Swifts.

FRONT
560 lbs (10kg)
504lbs (9kg)
448 lbs (8kg)

REAR
448 lbs (8kg)
392lbs (7kg)
336 lbs (6kg)

Edit: I had a thread up on the suspension tech info area and got some good answers in regards to managing comfort and driving characteristics. As my end goal is to remove some of the understeer characteristics and maintain a livable daily-driver, I think that I am going to go with a 8k/8k setup. I'll be running it by West End Alignment to get their feedback on this potential setup and unintended drawbacks that may come from it before picking up the springs.

Last edited by Stickers; 10-11-2019 at 05:03 PM.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:30 PM   #40
wuuusaa
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Just realized you haven't mentioned any go faster mods(exhaust, air intake) lol. Any plans for TBE, CAI? I see you already have a AP and Spt cbe?

Those rotors are very nice and light weight but damn they're expensive. Any other reasons why you didn't go with DBA? They offer very nice and are relatively light weight as well.
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Old 09-25-2019, 08:57 PM   #41
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wuuusaa View Post
Just realized you haven't mentioned any go faster mods(exhaust, air intake) lol. Any plans for TBE, CAI? I see you already have a AP and Spt cbe?

Those rotors are very nice and light weight but damn they're expensive. Any other reasons why you didn't go with DBA? They offer very nice and are relatively light weight as well.
I got the AP as the car is set up poorly from the factory, stock otherwise. My general philosophy is to make the engine do less work by removing weight. I get that the wing and diffuser go against this, but they add enough value in stability and downforce to override their weight penalty. I have been eyeing the GReddy RS-Titan though.

Picked up the Girodisc from another user here that sold his STI, had them before even getting a set of calipers because they were a great deal.
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Old 09-29-2019, 11:36 PM   #42
sayunkl
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2018 High Country

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Looks good man. I dig the silver better on the wheels.
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Old 10-01-2019, 04:09 AM   #43
Stickers
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sayunkl View Post
Looks good man. I dig the silver better on the wheels.
Thanks! The burning red was always a bane to me, if I were to get another set Id go with the dash white or mag blue.
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Old 10-31-2019, 07:35 PM   #44
Stickers
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A while back I found a set of cheap (great condition) craftsquare mirrors for sale, and picked the up with the intention of parting them out to people that needed the pieces. They sat around in my closet for over a year, and then I reached out to a friend to get some APR bases to get them installed without having to cut anything up. He offered his assistance in taking apart the craftsquares and making a custom base for the VA chassis.

Below is the first 3D printed mock up. Accidentally put the driver side mirror on the passenger side base, but even backwards the craftsquares look great. Can't wait to move to the next phase and get another mock up printed before moving on to hardware and a metal base.

https://i.imgur.com/vQ9G2Ra.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/L52EqtM.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RV9NtYx.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SVUb9ty.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/UvMP9PJ.jpg

Last edited by Stickers; 10-31-2019 at 08:11 PM.
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Old 12-09-2019, 12:26 AM   #45
Stickers
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Headlights!

I was the original car that sent off my OEM orange side marker lenses to Prolightz back in 2015 for them to produce aftermarket ones. I had gone with HID low beams and LED high beams, leaving the C-light alone as nothing was on the market yet.

Fast forward to 2019, LED bulb blew and one of the connections for the HIDs was loose causing intermittent lighting issues. I put all the stock bulbs back on and waited until there were some sales for the parts I wanted.

* Diode Dynamics C-light w/ DRL Plug & Play harness.
* Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 LED low beam bulbs.
* Profile Pivot LED sidemarker bulbs.

TIP 1: Get some aluminum / metal tape before you start working. One major complaint people have had about the c-light boards is that the bottom clip won't pop back into OEM housing. Fold up some tape (sticky side out) and place it underneath the clip on the back side of the headlight so it is pinched between the clip and the housing. Then tape the clip to that initial piece of tape and the housing. My hands were a complete mess so I couldn't take pictures, but basically you're making it so that the clip won't bend and break, but also holding it in place from the top side. The clip goes through the hole on the lower left-ish side of the silver bezel, see this image from Ben's car blog (here)

TIP 2: use the same metal tape to cover the holes where the clips go through from the sidemarker lenses. Light bleeds through them and makes the headlights look cheap otherwise. Sometimes the aftermarket ones don't fit perfectly either, so this prevents them from moving around.

I am happy with the light output from the low beams, and "instant on" of LEDs. The DRLs clean up the entire front end. If I eventually change the front bumper to a 18+, I will use the switchback function so that they are my turn signals as well.

https://i.imgur.com/eE2Qzsk.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8gpJmj0.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Go275Kn.jpg
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