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Old 02-23-2020, 09:48 PM   #31526
IHaveAHorse
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Not Optima specifically, but a lot of battery brands now carry a $200-300 AGM battery above their top of the line ~$150 flooded cell battery. I've heard the bad about Optima in the past and I know to avoid them for sure. Overpriced, underperforming, overhyped.
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Old 02-26-2020, 01:14 PM   #31527
flyboy1100
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Anyone remember where it was discussed which wrx suspension was a direct swap?
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Old 02-26-2020, 01:26 PM   #31528
johnpy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
SilverStar Ultras put out a lot of light but those things tend to burn out within weeks to a few months from what I've heard, in most use cases. Also something like $60 a pair? Nuts.
https://imgur.com/a/ikpFWaB
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Old 02-26-2020, 04:36 PM   #31529
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Isn't 08-14 WRX non-STI suspension basically identical in dimensions to 2012-17 Impreza?
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:36 AM   #31530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHaveAHorse View Post
Isn't 08-14 WRX non-STI suspension basically identical in dimensions to 2012-17 Impreza?
for some reason i have it stuck in my head that 2010 was the best option, but i can't remember why or find it.
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Old 02-27-2020, 12:34 PM   #31531
IHaveAHorse
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I think looking at spring rates I remember reading somewhere that supposedly the spring rate was increased between 2008 and 2010 model years, and maybe beyond. Although I don't remember how credible the source was.
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Old 02-27-2020, 02:44 PM   #31532
flyboy1100
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Default 2012 Impreza thread

09+ the rates were increased. 11+ the front struts for sure are 0.5Ē longer than prior years, which screws up front camber

Most of the info was in the ďlowering threadĒ

Still trying to find out 10 vs 11 rear strut lengths for wrx, but i do know the sti rears are the same length but higher spring rates so that could also take care of 11+ longer struts.

Just trying to plan potential replacements, have 188k on my oemís at this point so maybe this summer might be replaced. I would just buy a wrx instead but donít need another car payment
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Old 03-01-2020, 09:48 PM   #31533
dcon9999
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Napa has the deka and Costco sells the...err. the other American one. They are warrantied for 42 months. Mine is 5 years and still killing the cca game
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Old 03-02-2020, 01:09 AM   #31534
rizaldiiii.13
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excuse me, if anyone of u knows, which has more power, the 2012 impreza 2.0 CVT or the 2010 Impreza 2.0 4AT? by more power i mean which has better 0-60 times and top speed

Last edited by rizaldiiii.13; 03-02-2020 at 02:06 AM.
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Old 03-02-2020, 10:13 AM   #31535
IHaveAHorse
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They're both some of the slowest cars on the US market. If you want a fast car look elsewhere. Supposedly the 2.0i is a tiny bit faster, and probably has better reliability for the most part, although the CVT is questionable.
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Old 03-02-2020, 06:30 PM   #31536
DieselDorf
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The cvt is fairly resilient, the valve body is a common failure point but isnít a terribly expensive fix, seeing as it has a similar life to a manual clutch which isnít a super easy job to do itís not considerably less robust than other automatic transmissions.
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Old 03-02-2020, 08:45 PM   #31537
IHaveAHorse
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I wonder what the life is of the CVTs where people have actually changed the fluid and ignored Subaru's demand that it's "lifetime", vs people who never changed it or maybe the dealer only changed it once.
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Old 03-02-2020, 09:35 PM   #31538
DieselDorf
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I would be curious as well. The biggest thing I have noticed from what everyone has said about them is that they are very sensitive to contaminants getting inside of them which is the only reason I see to not change he fluid. If itís sealed nothing can get in.

Iíve heard of people having shops change it poorly and having it fail quickly after. I do not plan to change mine ever.
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Old 03-02-2020, 09:50 PM   #31539
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I change mine but I'm extremely careful to get nothing into the fill hole. If the fill or drain plugs fall on the ground I spray them with a ton of brake or parts cleaner and let them dry. Guess we'll see. No real problems yet, beyond the fairly poor programming that came from the factory.
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Old 03-03-2020, 11:01 AM   #31540
Haunty
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haunty View Post
I started getting AT Oil Temp/Check Engine light on 2012 Impreza with 110k miles. When I called the dealer for service, they said the soonest appointment was 2 weeks away and didn't make it seem urgent.
Update on my issue with P2763 code. Dealer is replacing the CVT valve body, which is what I expected after googling the issue a bit. Unfortunately out of warranty now so estimate was $1,400 USD. I don't think it's too bad since this is the first repair I've had after 8 years/110k miles, but will probably look into getting a new car in the next couple years.
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Old 03-03-2020, 01:20 PM   #31541
DieselDorf
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I would call Subaru of America and complain that itís for a part with an extended warranty clearly something is defective. Iíve heard of people having all or some of the repair covered out of goodwill.

Worth a shot.
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Old 03-08-2020, 05:35 AM   #31542
Kottosen
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Default Drpoop

coming to check in if anyone's heard from drpoop recently?
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Old 03-08-2020, 10:39 AM   #31543
DieselDorf
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Havenít since his last ban, he may be back as a new user who is being nicer. Why are you wondering?
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Old 03-08-2020, 05:42 PM   #31544
IHaveAHorse
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So what's the deal with the CVT valve body? Is it some tiny and/or complex part they have to disassemble most of the transmission to get to? If I had a $1500 repair on my car that's quickly approaching mid single thousands in value I'd probably try to get rid of the code and sell it ASAP, and buy something lightly used with a traditional auto and that's rated highly for reliability. A Toyota or Honda that doesn't have a CVT or something.
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Old 03-08-2020, 07:04 PM   #31545
DieselDorf
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Itís pretty similar to a valve body for a traditional auto. It is on top of the transmission and can be accessed from the top without dropping the motor or trans. Itís $800 for the part not including gaskets and labor.

It has a bunch of passageways for trans fluid to go through to put pressure in certain places. Iíll post a video of someone doing the job it isnít terribke if youíve done work like that before but I would rather have the piece of mind of having the dealer do it.

Hereís the video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Jv_rGCtmHLE
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Old 03-19-2020, 01:24 PM   #31546
DieselDorf
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For anyone experiencing sticking brake pads, I took mine off (just one rear tire would stick and leave a burning brake smell and heat). There were litte metal pieces that appeared to be from the manufacturing of the pads that stuck out where they werenít supposed to be. This made the pad stick into the slides and wouldnít move very easy, I had to pry it out with a screwdriver with a lot of force.

I just filed the little tabs down the be flush and put some anti seize on them, no more issues!
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Old 03-19-2020, 04:38 PM   #31547
Angelus911
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FWIW, I cleaned the corrosion off of my caliper brackets on my old car with a metal brush on a drill, and got the pad clips Flyboy mentioned that have a nonstick coating on them - that also solved my sticking brake problem.
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Old 03-19-2020, 09:31 PM   #31548
DieselDorf
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My pad clips were the same, they pads just had extra material making them way too tight, they actually slide now.
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Old 03-20-2020, 12:09 AM   #31549
IHaveAHorse
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How do you know they're sticking?
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Old 03-20-2020, 03:58 PM   #31550
DieselDorf
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Smelled like burnt clutch/brake (similar smell). And then you can feel the heat when you put your fingers by the pads/rotor right after stopping.

Should be cool unless you are using the brakes a lot, especially since itís the rears.
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