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Old 09-21-2017, 12:33 AM   #6201
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Suba_Roo View Post
Run SM. Locally people usually don't complain about classing, but it is at best a jerk move to run an RSTI in stock class. As you said, its an STI with 600lbs shaved off it.

Vis-a-vis alignment. Zero toe all around. Max even camber you can get in the front. With some creative work (ie ratchet straps, etc) you should be able to get at least -2 degrees in front. Caster isn't adjustable unless you have camber plates. In the rear, look at what you got in the front and go with somewhere like half a degree to one degree less in the back. Ie if you get -2 in the front dial in -1 to -1.5 in the rear. This will dial out some understeer. Camber isn't really adjustable in the rear (unless you have camber plates or camber bolts). Camber bolts are stupid cheap and easy to install, so they are a no brainer.

I'm assuming you have an aftermarket rear sway bar. If not, it's a no brainer to upgrade that part to something that is the same size or marginally bigger than the front sway bar.
Hmmmm, makes me want to get it weighed now. If you didn't know it was a swap, not sure you would know unless you looked at the VIN.

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Originally Posted by katsimbris View Post
Just so we're clear, I wouldn't go too harsh on the guy in my club. I mean, I think he said it was an '04 RS. So, the shell of the car is a GD chassis. Unless maybe, he left the dash out, etc, I'm trying to think of what other things would have been left out to make a huge difference.

But, yeah, I mean, ultimately, you're right, the VIN is the VIN, it's SM.

That being said, I'd love to know if anything was left out to give an awesome advantage.

Mike K
If is 600 lbs lighter, then yes, that's an advantage.

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Originally Posted by subydude View Post

The rules say you have to do a package conversion, so any bracing, parts, etc that were missed in the swap that didn't fall under comfort and convenience would be illegal. However, it is legal to do a full conversion (if possible) to another model. See how the Miata's do it for the old club sport edition.

However, I'm 100% sure the car has something on it that makes the package conversion incomplete. It doesn't really matter though, so I'll let it go
Like I said before, likely not an issue until he starts placing well. His third event is just over a week away.

Thanks for the thoughts guys.
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Old 09-21-2017, 04:07 PM   #6202
jesup16
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Originally Posted by ihatefish View Post
What's so hard to understand? I just want to be sure I'm buying a good platform, and there are no known major problems with the new system.
When I'm ready to build/race again, I'll do it right. May take a couple years, but when I'm ready I don't want any major limitations. I sold my favorite car ever because I was frustrated with the drivetrain, so I'm asking around before I buy something unfamiliar.

Thank you guys for talking to me. I feel like if there are any major problems with the new DCCD someone who knows about it can chime in here.
Not trying to be a jerk... just trying to get to the root of your questions.

It's probably too early to uncover any known issues with the electronic DCCD in the 18+ STI... those cars are barely available to buy... let alone being built for STU.

My $.02. Buy one... run it in B-Street (or where SCCA decides to class it next year)... and if the DCCD fails, you'll still be covered by Subaru warranty. If the DCCD holds up to a couple seasons of B-street, then start your STU build.
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Old 10-25-2017, 02:34 PM   #6203
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Update on my Nexen SUR4G's
I got a total of 76 Runs with them, flipped and rotated at 36 runs.
Shoulders did end up wearing much faster than the middle, but a lot of that was probably my own doing (maybe not running enough pressure either?).

Overall, I was very happy with them. I think I will be switching to the Bridgestones next though. I haven't run those since I first started, so I'm curious how they compare.

https://i.imgur.com/w8XyuLU.jpg
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Old 10-27-2017, 10:39 AM   #6204
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76 runs assuming you can rotate F/R between events is a little bit low. Could be an indication of bad alignment or overdriving.

That's a lotta cord showing. Did that all happen at the same event?
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Old 10-27-2017, 11:56 AM   #6205
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IIRC, the Nexen is also molded with quite a bit more depth in the center of the tread face and is somewhat "curved" across the top of the profile. You could probably shave down the center by 2-3/32nds and end up with a faster tire that wears at least as well as the non-shaved version.
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Old 10-27-2017, 02:14 PM   #6206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTX View Post
76 runs assuming you can rotate F/R between events is a little bit low. Could be an indication of bad alignment or overdriving.
That's what I'm not sure about. I can probably attribute some of it to overdriving at times, however I'm not sure on the alignment. I don't have any good alignment shops around me, so there's probably some room for improvement there. The thing I did notice lately was that my rears started wearing a little quicker than the fronts. Which probably explains why I've felt the rear was too loose for me lately. But as I type this, sounds like a proper alignment should be on my short list of things to do.

What is the general consensus on alignment for GD? I've been maxing out front camber (-3.6ish, slight toe out) and rear -1.8ish, 0 toe. Seem about right?


Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTX View Post
That's a lotta cord showing. Did that all happen at the same event?
Same event. Actually 3 of them corded the same run...the fourth I'm not sure when it corded, as it was on the inside of the tire, but same event too.
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Old 10-27-2017, 02:25 PM   #6207
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I run -3.8F and -2.5R camber on 600F/650R springs. Rear still needs more camber.
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:27 PM   #6208
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The thread died... you dirty slackers...

Its autox season again...

So the changes I made last year were AWESOME... This year I've picked up a codriver for local events as well as Dixie and Bristol...

We're planning on taking this show on the road to Lincoln as well.

I am putting on my ELH this weekend and got an appointment at the tuner next Friday just in time for Atlanta Region points 2 which will be a warm up for Dixie.

The winner of Dixie last year crashed Atlanta points 1. On 3 runs my co driver and I had his 350z by a bit, but he edged me out on 5 runs as he started fiddling. Dixie is going to be interesting this year with 10 drivers so far... 2 Corvettes, several 350z's, and a handful of Subarus. Its gonna be good.
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Old 03-01-2018, 02:04 PM   #6209
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Meh, I am on the fence about running my car at any SCCA events this season
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Old 03-01-2018, 02:41 PM   #6210
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I'm still committed to STU this year for sure. My car is running great, though it's begun using a bit of oil. Watching closely...
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Old 03-01-2018, 02:51 PM   #6211
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Originally Posted by AustinTX View Post
I'm still committed to STU this year for sure. My car is running great, though it's begun using a bit of oil. Watching closely...

Have you replaced the PCV valve recently? Those suckers go bad pretty quickly and can lead to consumption. Certainly preferred than having the motor go full Subaru. You never want to go full Subaru.
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Old 03-01-2018, 03:29 PM   #6212
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Austin are you planning making it up to Lincoln this year?

Ya you never want to go full retard... I am Subaru... bad things happen or you end up like Tim...

I've been thinking of trying this whole no rear sway bar thing, I might disconnect it when I do my header install and drive around alil and see if it feels any better than it does now.
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Old 03-01-2018, 04:28 PM   #6213
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Last year was quite successful, mine only broke once!

But it was the gearbox...
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Old 03-01-2018, 04:53 PM   #6214
~The_Duke~
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That OCV issue I had ended up being a failed motor mount nut... the driver's side nut had been completely pulled off, there were no threads left on the stud that comes through the sub frame...

How that didn't make a clunk noise every time I hit the throttle we still don't know, but the mounts were replaced with some cusco ones and the tranny mount was replaced as well with the same... Its not moving anymore...

The OCV wiring was being scrapped off the end of the plug by a ground harness bolt that was near by...
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:13 PM   #6215
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I like how I'm used as a measurement for bad decisions.
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Old 03-02-2018, 09:24 AM   #6216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorium06 View Post
Have you replaced the PCV valve recently? Those suckers go bad pretty quickly and can lead to consumption. Certainly preferred than having the motor go full Subaru. You never want to go full Subaru.
Fresh PCV, Perrin AOS, using between 0.5-1qt per event including 2hr drive time to/from. Runs great, comp and turbo are good. Thinking valve seals. Just gotta decide when to take it down. Hoping the STI block gets superseded to the RA block first
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Old 03-02-2018, 09:27 AM   #6217
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Originally Posted by ~The_Duke~ View Post
Austin are you planning making it up to Lincoln this year?
Definitely

Quote:
Originally Posted by ~The_Duke~ View Post
I've been thinking of trying this whole no rear sway bar thing, I might disconnect it when I do my header install and drive around alil and see if it feels any better than it does now.
I've always preferred having at least the stock sized bar on the back. The best I can describe it is that it helps the car 'reset' after completing an element. Without the bar, it just felt like the car would continue to yaw leaving a sloppy handling feel.
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Old 03-02-2018, 09:47 AM   #6218
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Valve seals show up if you let it idle for about 15-20 minutes while hot and then rev it up. If you get blue smoke after extended idle and then a few puffs when revving it's valve seals. The other tell tale sign is if you shut it off while hot and then start it up later after it cools off and some smoke comes out the exhaust again.
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Old 03-02-2018, 11:15 AM   #6219
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I get an occasional puff at startup. I'll try the extended idle/rev check next. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Old 03-03-2018, 08:46 PM   #6220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AustinTX View Post
Definitely


I've always preferred having at least the stock sized bar on the back. The best I can describe it is that it helps the car 'reset' after completing an element. Without the bar, it just felt like the car would continue to yaw leaving a sloppy handling feel.
Obviously my $0.02 but, for me, shocks with more rebound range fixed the issue you’re talking about. Are you still on the RCE T2’s?
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Old 03-05-2018, 07:27 AM   #6221
~The_Duke~
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I removed the rumble over the weekend. The car feels and sounds awesome now, I went with a tomei header thanks to a killer deal from subydude.

Apparently though my grimmspeed catted down pipe cat doesn't "clean" enough to make the down stream o2 sensor happy, I got the P0420 this morning on the way to work. I reset the code for the drive home, it just might be stuff burning off on the new exhaust pieces. If not... time to buy a spark plug anti-fouler... lol

Tuning appointment at DBW Friday.
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Old 03-06-2018, 12:24 PM   #6222
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What is the rest of your exhaust setup? I am curious as when I lost the rumble, I wouldn't describe it as sounding awesome. Mine sounds more like a Cessna in a nose dive. It also got substantially louder and now pops sound locally every now and then.
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Old 03-07-2018, 07:20 AM   #6223
~The_Duke~
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I have the Tomei ELH, Grimmspeed DP, then Invidia N1 Race version (the one without all the fancy resonators).

So on the way home Monday I developed a leak... I fixed the leak last night, I think. It passed the sea foam test. The only smoke that came out of the car came out the back where it was supposed it.

I think the P0240 was because of the leak honestly, because it hasn't come back yet.
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:10 AM   #6224
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I have the Killer B header and up pipe, Grimmspeed DP, and was using a P&L aluminum catback, but have switched it for a Tomei titanium catback. It got quieter, but will still pop sound. I am thinking about putting a titanium resonator on the mid pipe.
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Old 03-07-2018, 11:21 AM   #6225
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I wanted the killer b header & up pipe, but for about 1\3 of the price I could have the Tomei one which isn't quite as good but its alright... I couldn't justify the cost no matter how hard I tried. Specially when subydude Facebook messages me with hey... I got this GR SM car I am parting out, do need anything?

The Invidia Race N1 version is one of the best sounding exhausts I've ever heard on a Subaru, specially with the factory header on it. That sound will be missed, but replaced with proper power...

Ya I get a lot of popping now as well, but that comes with any header. That's normal. The Tomei titanium catback has always had a reputation for being very loud and not really sounding great. It is DAMN light though, 7 pounds I think. The invidia one costs 1\2 as much and isn't all that much heavier. I didn't weigh it before I put it on the car but it felt like it weighed about a 1\3 of what the huge quad tip can that came on the back of my car.

It still has a deep sound at idle, but more of a flat 6ish scream once you get into it. Then you lift and get angry sounding pops while the revs drop.
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