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Old 10-11-2023, 08:01 AM   #1
dusterbd13
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default grassroots motorspoorts $2000 challenge turbo baja build

I picked this car up a few weeks ago for $400. The seller is moving out of country, and was given an extensive fix it list by a local shop when she was going to give it to her niece. Hence the “fire sale” pricing. On the list was rear brake lines being rusty to unsafe, rear crossmember being rotted, exhaust rotted, trans leaking, oil leaks, coolant leaks, timing belt due, mice in car. Car is from the rust belt to boot. Supposedly had the pistons swapped for more boost by the second owner(I’m 4th or 5th) but nothing past that was ever done. No records of maintenance or modification available.
I knew this list going in, but for $400 for a clean title turbo Subaru that ran and drove that still has catalytic converters, I figured I couldn’t lose!! So I bought it based upon the following pictures. Sight unseen, sent PayPal and scheduled a week later to go get it.
IMG_0266 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0267 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0341 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0810 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0813 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0812 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
IMG_0814 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

So, my brother Dallas and I went to pick it up. I planned to drive it home, but he talked me into taking the trailer. I feel kinda like I wussed out, but with sketchy rust reported, he was the voice of reason. Seller was an AWESOME person, and the car was actually way better than advertised. Hope she enjoys her new chapter in life.
20230916_154934 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
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Old 10-11-2023, 08:03 AM   #2
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
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We cleaned it out, and got it up on the lift to see what the rust situation really was. The brake lines make my southern self squeamish, the exhaust can easily be removed via boot, crossmember isn’t all THAT bad (tongue in cheek), everything is hosed in fluids. Trans mount shot, rear seal leaking profusely, valve covers leaking, hoses all need done, rear sway bar bushings shot, its filthy, ac needs charged, seat heaters inoperable, drivers seat only occasionally moves via switch, stereo needs either speakers or head unit, cats are rattling, has hesitation like vacuum leak, it smells pretty bad inside, and its silver. Not a bad list, all things considered!
20230916_181936 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230916_181940 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230916_181947 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230916_182002 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230916_182050 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230921_180424 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20230921_180427 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

So, we have a list, a car, and a toolbox. Now’s probably the time I admit that I’ve only ever owned one other Subaru to speak of, a 2002 legacy 2.5gt wagon when my daughter was in a rear facing car seat (she’s in drivers ed this week) and never anything with forced induction. I was a nitrous junky in high school and college with my 70 duster, but never had anything cramming more air in. I’m generally a domestic guy, generally a v8 rwd guy. No stranger to weird **** though (rotisserie restore an ACR neon? Yup. 3400 v6 swap a Miata? Done it. Winston cup chassis 71 duster? Different build thread, but its coming along) so I figure I can figure this out with some help. I decided that the end goal of this is the GRM challenge in 2025. I’ve done a few challenge cars that have hit top 10, but I’m going caveman this time. back to the roots of the challenge. $2000 all in. no exemptions, recoup, trades, etc. also, it’ll be my daily (I have a company work truck. I generally only do about 100miles a week in my own stuff, so I could pretty much daily anything. And frequently do!)
I have a method I work to: safe. Reliable. Cool. In that order. Dad taught me that at 14, and its served me well since. Sometimes those lines blend these days, as it doesn’t make sense to redo some things later, or buy parts twice, but it’s a general plan to live by.
First order of business was to sell the tonneau for 100 bucks. That made me happy! Then, I put about 500 miles on it before the first real failure. Enough time to get a feel for the car, its needs, my wants, etc. I really, really like it. And you’ve seen the list of needs already if you’re not just looking at my crappy pictures.
The first failure to address was the trans leak and mount that became significant quickly. Right onto the catalytic converter. I had read the FSM section that stated that you have to drop the exhaust, so I first sourced a new exhaust due to the rotten pipe and flanges. In reading around in the internet, it seems that the baja turbo uses the forester XT engine and downpipe, and an oversize bh legacy catback. No stock parts seem to be available anymore for a price im willing to pay. In further reading, it seems that he whole forester xt exhaust can be used with a little work to the hangers, and some possible extension to the midpipe. Soa search of my favorite parts vendors (facebook marketplace, ebay, amazon, craigslist) turned up a 3 inch exhaust, catless downpipe, catless uppipe, and unequal length header for a forester xt in used condition down in Fayetteville. I messaged the seller, and got to talking as all car guys do. In the end, I bought the whole exhaust, a maxflow intercooler, and he threw in a supposed bolt on intake manifold upgrade for $250.
20230924_165600 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Screenshot_20230924_165853_Messenger by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
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Old 10-11-2023, 08:04 AM   #3
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
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I haven't installed any of it yet. I was fortunately able to install the seal and trans mount without dropping the exhaust. This is doubly fortunate, as the rear seal failed entirely at the outskirts of town, and I wound up doing the job entirely on my quickjack. This is actually where I decided that I'm going full caveman on this build. Sheer roots of the GRM challenge. No fancy fab equipment outside a welder and portaband and 4-inch grinder, no real lift, no CNC, etc. I want to show what is actually possible with a strict 2k budget by a redneck in his garage with a rabbit's foot and no fear of failure. I hope to encourage others to try the challenge as well, as lately I have heard way too much of folks saying that they can't compete, it's not real, etc.
Anyway, here's my caveman shop. On my quickjack. And a picture of the failed trans mount, but no picture of the failed trans seal. Sea was 3.99, 6 quarts of ATF was 38, mount 35.35, filter 5.79
20231005_071316 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231006_194448 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Car drives way better now. Seems to be faster, shifts better, no more nasty noises under acceleration, no more billowing clouds of smoke***8230;.

While I had it inside, I decided to tackle the stereo issues. I figured first that it was probably the head unit, and since I had one in my stash, id use it. Its an old kenwood hd headunit with Bluetooth that's been in a few cars. For 25 I scored the silver cubby from an earlier baja, and 9 I got the adapter bracket.
20231004_190142 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231004_190139 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231004_191126 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Unfortunately, I've discovered that the front door speakers are also utter crap. I have a few options in my stash, so well see what happens there.

To round out this initial drivel, well talk about the rust situation other than exhaust. The rear crossmember hasn't failed, nor does it seem to be at imminent risk of doing so. however, its heavily corroded, and definitely thinner in places than it should be. Additionally, all the fasteners are seized due to rust, and the brake lines make me twitchy. Up front, it looks like a southern car that got parked in the grass every day and driven to the beach way too often. Nothing to worry about. In my research, it seems the baja used legacy parts, and outback spacers to lift the chassis some more. Soin theory, I can use a legacy rear crossmember and suspension, pull the spacers, and be in business with rust free parts and an inch lower ride height. The different parts appear to be the hardware, spacers vs washers, steering column and coupler, subframe braces, front control arm bushings, driveshaft spacer, and apparently exhaust hangers. At least from research. So, I went down to the junkyard and go the parts of a legacy L to lower to normal height (no subframe spacers). It will still be higher than the legacy L due to the outback struts and springs however. Again, this is all in theory, so take with a shaker of salt. I also got a b9tribeca 25mm front sway bar and trans tunnel heat shield while there. It wasn't a fun pair of junkyard runs, but I got it done. I got the bonus of spare rear calipers and rotors, however, and a TON of free hardware, a seat switch, clips, body plugs, etc. all the piddly stuff they didn't charge for.
20231001_104214 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231001_104220 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231007_095013 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231007_110813 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
So lets end with a real world challenge budge summary
Car: 400
Trans mount: 35.35
Trans filter: 5.79
Rear trans seal: 3.99
Trans fluid: 38
Exhaust/intercooler/intake: 250
Stereo harness: 6
Storage cubby: 25
Crossmember/suspension/column/grille:234.61
Swaybar/control arm bushings/ heat shield: 55.30
Total: 1053.93 (minus the cores I turned in for swaybar and steering column)

Next up is a huge rock auto order for timing belt, hoses, bushings, etc, lowering, etc.
Please, yall. Impart knowledge and wisdom here. I'm learning these things as I go, and would love to not grenade this thing by being cheap or dumb or ignorant.
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Old 10-11-2023, 08:04 AM   #4
dusterbd13
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

I haven’t installed any of it yet. I was fortunately able to install the seal and trans mount without dropping the exhaust. This is doubly fortunate, as the rear seal failed entirely at the outskirts of town, and I wound up doing the job entirely on my quickjack. This is actually where I decided that I’m going full caveman on this build. Sheer roots of the GRM challenge. No fancy fab equipment outside a welder and portaband and 4-inch grinder, no real lift, no CNC, etc. I want to show what is actually possible with a strict 2k budget by a redneck in his garage with a rabbit’s foot and no fear of failure. I hope to encourage others to try the challenge as well, as lately I have heard way too much of folks saying that they can’t compete, it’s not real, etc.
Anyway, here’s my caveman shop. On my quickjack. And a picture of the failed trans mount, but no picture of the failed trans seal. Sea was 3.99, 6 quarts of ATF was 38, mount 35.35, filter 5.79
20231005_071316 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231006_194448 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Car drives way better now. Seems to be faster, shifts better, no more nasty noises under acceleration, no more billowing clouds of smoke….

While I had it inside, I decided to tackle the stereo issues. I figured first that it was probably the head unit, and since I had one in my stash, id use it. Its an old kenwood hd headunit with Bluetooth that’s been in a few cars. For 25 I scored the silver cubby from an earlier baja, and 9 I got the adapter bracket.
20231004_190142 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231004_190139 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231004_191126 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Unfortunately, I’ve discovered that the front door speakers are also utter crap. I have a few options in my stash, so well see what happens there.

To round out this initial drivel, well talk about the rust situation other than exhaust. The rear crossmember hasn’t failed, nor does it seem to be at imminent risk of doing so. however, its heavily corroded, and definitely thinner in places than it should be. Additionally, all the fasteners are seized due to rust, and the brake lines make me twitchy. Up front, it looks like a southern car that got parked in the grass every day and driven to the beach way too often. Nothing to worry about. In my research, it seems the baja used legacy parts, and outback spacers to lift the chassis some more. Soin theory, I can use a legacy rear crossmember and suspension, pull the spacers, and be in business with rust free parts and an inch lower ride height. The different parts appear to be the hardware, spacers vs washers, steering column and coupler, subframe braces, front control arm bushings, driveshaft spacer, and apparently exhaust hangers. At least from research. So, I went down to the junkyard and go the parts of a legacy L to lower to normal height (no subframe spacers). It will still be higher than the legacy L due to the outback struts and springs however. Again, this is all in theory, so take with a shaker of salt. I also got a b9tribeca 25mm front sway bar and trans tunnel heat shield while there. It wasn’t a fun pair of junkyard runs, but I got it done. I got the bonus of spare rear calipers and rotors, however, and a TON of free hardware, a seat switch, clips, body plugs, etc. all the piddly stuff they didn’t charge for.
20231001_104214 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231001_104220 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231007_095013 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231007_110813 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
So lets end with a real world challenge budge summary
Car: 400
Trans mount: 35.35
Trans filter: 5.79
Rear trans seal: 3.99
Trans fluid: 38
Exhaust/intercooler/intake: 250
Stereo harness: 6
Storage cubby: 25
Crossmember/suspension/column/grille:234.61
Swaybar/control arm bushings/ heat shield: 55.30
Total: 1053.93 (minus the cores I turned in for swaybar and steering column)

Next up is a huge rock auto order for timing belt, hoses, bushings, etc, lowering, etc.
Please, yall. Impart knowledge and wisdom here. I’m learning these things as I go, and would love to not grenade this thing by being cheap or dumb or ignorant.
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Old 12-23-2023, 01:15 PM   #5
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

Previous total:
Car: 400
Trans mount: 35.35
Trans filter: 5.79
Rear trans seal: 3.99
Trans fluid: 23
Exhaust: 100
Intercooler: 100
Intake: 50
Stereo harness: 6
Storage cubby: 25
Crossmember/suspension/column/grille:234.61
Swaybar/control arm bushings/ heat shield: 55.30


This update:
I returned all the pullapart parts, so remove all that from the budget except 25.51 swaybar
Removed intake and intercooler from budget for now, as no intent to use
Roni sent me a free trans mount with an insert in it, so remove the trans mount cost. I also got one with the parts car!
My half of the Parts car: 225
Rock auto order (minus stuff that wont be in the car at the challenge, listed in the actual update): 304.90
Nicopp: 29.99
Brake Unions:5.00
Exhaust gaskets: 31.59
Gauges and pillar pod (had) 20 fmv
Silicone Hose kit: 42.31
Rustoleum: 9.98
New total: 1258.06
So, when we left off I thought I had the trans leak fixed, and the car was soldiering on as a rolling project. That was a couple months ago. It got pressed into daily driver duty for the wife while I had her van down, covering about 3k before it popped a brake line. At that point, I pulled it offline for proper repairs. Looking at it, it seemed that to do the brake lines right involved dropping the crossmember, so I anticipated doing both jobs at one time.
And then my friend brett called me with a 2001 legacy 2.5gt parts car deal that he found. 450 for the whole car. He needed the drivetrain for his legacy (building an earlier legacy with a Frankenstein 2.5 swap for the challenge) and I could return ALL my pullapart parts and replace them for 225, thereby saving money while investing more effort. Well, all except the b9 tribeca front sway bar.
As Deadpool has taught us since I was a lad reading his comics, its all about maximum effort.
So we went to Fayetteville, paid our money, and took our chances.
Screenshot_20231102_210405_Facebook by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231104_133842 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Got it home, and gutted it for all its worth. I kept all the suspension, interior, brakes, front lights, hood, etc. all the stuff that I could MAYBE use on the baja, including cv axles, while brett got all the wiring, computers, engine trans, etc. we then traded the leftovers to my scrap guy for used tires. A set of nearly new 205/55/16 for the gt snowflakes, a set of well loved 275/40/17 for my sawblades, and a set of 215/50/17 for the srt4 wheels. We’ll get to the wheel whoring in a while, so keep that thought.
Anyway, stripping went like this…
20231128_170220 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231128_170157 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231128_170501 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231203_072709 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231206_072002 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231208_120456 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231208_122259 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Not shown is that I saved all the hardware, all the interior, the front and rear impact beams, all the bulbs, etc. everything I could think of for reuse in my car for challenge budget savings. This thing even had a newish radiator in the trunk, an underseat sub, decent headlights up front, and good heater hoses! Like I said, I saved EVERYTHING I thought I could use, and now its clogging up my shop and storage.
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Old 12-23-2023, 01:17 PM   #6
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
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With the parts car gone, I readied the baja for surgery. I dropped the spare, and limped it to the local coin op car wash where I pressure washed the underside the best I could with castrol superclean while it was on jack stands. Tried to limit the amount of dirt and rust and crap that will be falling in my eyes and on my floor.
Got it home, on the quick jacks, and started soaking the subframe hardware in penetrating oil. The rust looked way less bad after cleaning. I hit it all with some rustoleum rust converter, just to slow it down.
20231209_113418 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Pulled the crossmember and rear suspension. Most of it came apart easy. One bolt didn’t, on the drivers front cossmember mount. Snapped flush with the frame.
20231215_070931 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Which I then proceeded to make worse on myself by breaking a drill bit off in the broken bolt.
20231217_081833 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Tried the trick of using a carbide tipped masonry bit on a hammer drill, tried welding a nut to the chunk of bolt, tried drilling beside it, etc. finally grabbed the plasma cutter and cut the whole mount apart.
20231219_162449 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
Made a new spacer/mount nut from an old cv nut and an extra m14 nut welded together, then welded to a chunk of 16 gauge that was welded and hammerformed to the frame rail. Its not pretty, but it’ll outlive me or the rest of the car. For alignment purposes, I bolted the patch to the crossmember, then bolted the crossmember to the car. Welded the patch to the car where it landed, dropped the crossmember and finished welding.
20231219_161444 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231219_162341 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231219_171941 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231219_171935 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231219_175809 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
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Old 12-23-2023, 01:19 PM   #7
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

Then top coated everything to prevent future rust back there
20231217_081815 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231219_180838 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
I’ve ordered a thread chaser for the m14 hardware, as I don’t have one and I want to clean all the threads in the body prior to reassembly. I’m also going to use never seize on all of them. Being nice to the next guy that has to service this thing.
In doing the rear subframe, I’m deleting the factory body lift ang going to standard legacy GT height. The changes in this swap include, but aren’t limited to: diff mount, remove spacers and add locators, different driveshaft, different LCA supports, different sway bar supports, different trans mount, different heat shields, different bolts, different springs and struts, different steering column and coupler, different inner fender mounts, different front lower control arm bushings different rear upper control arms, different rear bump stops. All these were retained from the parts car. If I’m doing it, I’m doing it RIGHT. Half measures availed us nothing. I went ahead and swapped the front struts already to get them out from underfoot, as well as to make sure that the baja sized tires would clear the legacy get struts. They do. Need to turn the car around after finishing the rear to do the rest of the front suspension work. The parts car had fresh-ish ball joints, steering rack and tie rods as well as one new cv joint. So ill be swapping that stuff over too when the time comes
20231222_184605 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
On the baja, to remove the rear shock you have to disassemble a lot of the rear seat. This is also need to access a good place to splice the leaking rear brake lines, and I’m swapping to the non-crunchy emergency brake cables while I’m in here. This means that essentially the whole interior is coming out, which is good for cleaning and replacing broken clips and using the best parts from both cars. Id also like to delete the DRLs, change the fog lights to independent operation, and rewire the seat heaters that just the back comes on on low (no tutorial for that, so no idea where to start yet). Probably put the good stereo stuff in while I’m here, etc.
So were halfway through with all that. Most of the interior is torn down, first round of carpet cleaning is done. I debated using the carpet from the parts car, but after sitting them side by side the baja carpet was in better shape. Its still bleached in a few spots, and I haven’t figured out what color dye is the necessary color for this.
20231222_200149 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231222_200124 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
While here, I pulled the cabin air filters out to inspect. They were reasonably clean, so I knocked the leaves out and looked at the evaporator. Then cleaned it the best I could. I debated running some coil cleaner through all the fins, but don’t know if the condensate drain is plugged, and decided it wasn’t time to worry about it yet. Vacuum is good enough for now.
20231222_193719 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
While under the drivers side of the dash, I pulled the malfunctioning remote start. That made me happy.
20231222_191641 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
One of the side projects I’ve been working on is a pillar pod for a boost gauge and an oil pressure gauge. Using leftover gauges and a universal pillar pod to start. The pod doesn’t fit the a pillar for crap, so I used my heat gun to reshape it, Dremel to grind clearance in it, and woodworking bandsaw to trim it to size.
20231120_181946 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231120_181957 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231120_182121 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
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Old 12-23-2023, 01:19 PM   #8
dusterbd13
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Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

20231120_183312 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231201_071835 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231222_195943 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Well finish off this update that's wholly unsatisfying due to nothing being actually finished by discussing my addiction.

I'm a wheel whore.

Currently there's close to 30 sets on my property NOT bolted to anything. 6 sets for the baja alone in total***8230;

I don't like the factory wheels. They do nothing for me, but have newish tires. Brett claimed the gt snowflakes when im done with them. Regardless, I had to do something for wheels. So I bought a few sets***8230;.
20231126_184032 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
From left to right: $100 set of 17x9.5 corvette sawblades, $80 17x7 srt4 wheels, $125 16x9.5 z51 salad shooters. Only the srt4 wheels will bolt up. So I grabbed a single 5x100-5x4.75 adapter in 1 inch thick based on my best guess.
The salad shooters just aren't gonna work. Look neat though!
20231209_175030 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231209_175023 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
The sawblades on the other hand, are perfect. May not fit in the challenge budget, but they look amazing (to me). Picture makes it look like they poke more than they actually do. Pardon my craptastic photo abilities.
20231209_174440 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231209_174532 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Merry Christmas yall!
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Old 12-23-2023, 01:20 PM   #9
dusterbd13
Scooby Newbie
 
Member#: 124457
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default

20231120_183312 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231201_071835 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231222_195943 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Well finish off this update that’s wholly unsatisfying due to nothing being actually finished by discussing my addiction.

I’m a wheel whore.

Currently there’s close to 30 sets on my property NOT bolted to anything. 6 sets for the baja alone in total…

I don’t like the factory wheels. They do nothing for me, but have newish tires. Brett claimed the gt snowflakes when im done with them. Regardless, I had to do something for wheels. So I bought a few sets….
20231126_184032 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
From left to right: $100 set of 17x9.5 corvette sawblades, $80 17x7 srt4 wheels, $125 16x9.5 z51 salad shooters. Only the srt4 wheels will bolt up. So I grabbed a single 5x100-5x4.75 adapter in 1 inch thick based on my best guess.
The salad shooters just aren’t gonna work. Look neat though!
20231209_175030 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231209_175023 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
The sawblades on the other hand, are perfect. May not fit in the challenge budget, but they look amazing (to me). Picture makes it look like they poke more than they actually do. Pardon my craptastic photo abilities.
20231209_174440 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr
20231209_174532 by Michael Crawford, on Flickr

Merry Christmas yall!
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