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Old 07-30-2012, 12:09 PM   #26
SeeeeeYa
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Maher_WRX View Post
What is this BPV sense hose issue you speak of? Please explain
Your BPV is the device that vents your intercooler depending on intake manifold pressure/vacuum. It bolts onto your intercooler, with the vent hole in the flanged base. The vacuum/pressure hose that tells it what to do connects to a nipple on the side. THE OTHER END of that hose, this sense hose, connects to a nipple on the rear bottom of the intake manifold under the intercooler. This nipple, like ALL the nipples on the plastic intake manifold, is a straight, non-barbed, slick plastic nipple... and all the hoses attached to it WILL blow off one day. When all but one of these hoses blow off... usually as a result of having been moved or under greater than stock boost... your car will become very unhappy. It throws a CEL and goes into limp mode.

To prevent the hoses from blowing off the best solution is to use a Corbin Clamp... Subaru uses them on the small overflow hose from the turbo coolant tank, for example. These clamps are the ones you pinch to open, slide onto the hose, put the hose back on the nipple, then slide that clamp onto the nipple portion of the hose. Some people zip-tie the hoses... these can and have failed as the zip-tie is not a dynamic clamp that adjusts to the aging hose. The Corbin style clamp is the permanent failsafe solution.

When you work on the engine you loosen these hoses because you move them. Thus, because installing the BP Mod requires removing the TMIC, the one inaccessible hose is disturbed and should be clamped. Even if you didn't do it then, it is still a good idea to clamp the numerous hoses attached to your intake manifold.

One hose, the Fuel Pressure Regulator sense hose, is far more problem if it comes off... if this hose blows off you will likely need a new engine. It is easy to get to, on the end of the IM on the driver's side. Clamp your hoses, and if you have a T in your boost control, do the same. All these hoses are thought of as "vacuum" hoses, but they also see boost.
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:53 PM   #27
J_Maher_WRX
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeeeeYa

Your BPV is the device that vents your intercooler depending on intake manifold pressure/vacuum. It bolts onto your intercooler, with the vent hole in the flanged base. The vacuum/pressure hose that tells it what to do connects to a nipple on the side. THE OTHER END of that hose, this sense hose, connects to a nipple on the rear bottom of the intake manifold under the intercooler. This nipple, like ALL the nipples on the plastic intake manifold, is a straight, non-barbed, slick plastic nipple... and all the hoses attached to it WILL blow off one day. When all but one of these hoses blow off... usually as a result of having been moved or under greater than stock boost... your car will become very unhappy. It throws a CEL and goes into limp mode.

To prevent the hoses from blowing off the best solution is to use a Corbin Clamp... Subaru uses them on the small overflow hose from the turbo coolant tank, for example. These clamps are the ones you pinch to open, slide onto the hose, put the hose back on the nipple, then slide that clamp onto the nipple portion of the hose. Some people zip-tie the hoses... these can and have failed as the zip-tie is not a dynamic clamp that adjusts to the aging hose. The Corbin style clamp is the permanent failsafe solution.

When you work on the engine you loosen these hoses because you move them. Thus, because installing the BP Mod requires removing the TMIC, the one inaccessible hose is disturbed and should be clamped. Even if you didn't do it then, it is still a good idea to clamp the numerous hoses attached to your intake manifold.

One hose, the Fuel Pressure Regulator sense hose, is far more problem if it comes off... if this hose blows off you will likely need a new engine. It is easy to get to, on the end of the IM on the driver's side. Clamp your hoses, and if you have a T in your boost control, do the same. All these hoses are thought of as "vacuum" hoses, but they also see boost.
Yeah I wasn't sure what I was supposed to clamp when I did the bulletproof mod. Thanks for clearing that up man, have to do that sometime soon I suppose!! Any way you could get a pic of the engine bay and highlight where these hoses are that needed to be clamped?? Thanks man!
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:21 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J_Maher_WRX View Post
Yeah I wasn't sure what I was supposed to clamp when I did the bulletproof mod. Thanks for clearing that up man, have to do that sometime soon I suppose!! Any way you could get a pic of the engine bay and highlight where these hoses are that needed to be clamped?? Thanks man!
Actually, this is explained in the first post here. Once the TMIC is off you can just follow the hose from the BPV to the other end. One of the reasons that little bugger doesn't have a bunch of pictures floating around is because it is virtually hidden down at the bottom of the back side of the IM, under a bunch of... stuff. It is much easier to follow the hose while it is still attached, as opposed to trying to find where the hose goes when your car is barely running and you finally take the TMIC off, find a loose hose, and don't know where it goes.

Also, that is just one of the many that can/will fail and cripple/kill your car.

Here is one thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ipple+BPV+hose

Quote:
Hoses on the T fitting

Hose loose that goes from the T to the intake manifold nipple, off at the nipple

Hose that goes to the MAP sensor came off at the sensor

Hose that connects the MAP sensor to the intake manifold nipple

ALL these problems are the result of Subaru's use of nipples without barbs.

The intake manifold nipple for the T is on the backside and hard to see. The intake manifold nipple for the MAP sensor is on the front and also not easily seen. The nipple ON the MAP sensor points straight down, has no barb either, and easily comes off.
Not mentioned there is the FPR sense line, add that, it's the one that can destroy an engine if it blows off.

If you see a little hose and it doesn't have a clamp, put one on. That's far better than a crippled car that forces you to work on it now, or worse.
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Old 08-01-2012, 04:25 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeeeeYa View Post
To prevent the hoses from blowing off the best solution is to use a Corbin Clamp...
FWIW, a corbin clamp for this specific purpose will be included in each kit that goes out
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Old 08-01-2012, 06:33 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by BarmanBean View Post
FWIW, a corbin clamp for this specific purpose will be included in each kit that goes out
There you go... win, win.

Go here for the main thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rx-158870.html

Go here for other options: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ts-189608.html

Last edited by SeeeeeYa; 08-07-2012 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 08-20-2012, 08:17 AM   #31
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Important update in main thread,

HERE: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...rx-158870.html
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:22 PM   #32
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omg this is awesome, im ordering one
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:24 PM   #33
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order quick, i only have one left in stock

Will be getting more made in the next couple weeks though.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:49 PM   #34
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firstly, thanks to Seeeeeya for this great idea and hosting the plans for this kit over on that lgt forum. i plan to make this myself, but i have a question:

what is the benefit of the ss zip tie fastening method over the bolted together method? is it just for looks and lgt engine cover clearance? or is there other functionality i am missing? i tried to read through that 27 page thread on the lgt forum, but it was ultimately making me a worse person.
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Old 11-15-2012, 12:52 PM   #35
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Functionally, there's not really a benefit for doing zip ties or regular hardware. Both will achieve the same end result.

I do like the zip ties because they provide a cleaner looking install and you will have zero clearance issues with the bpv hose, engine cover, or other areas. The only real concern that I have seen using standard hardware is at the BPV hose.
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Old 11-15-2012, 01:02 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarmanBean View Post
Functionally, there's not really a benefit for doing zip ties or regular hardware. Both will achieve the same end result.

I do like the zip ties because they provide a cleaner looking install and you will have zero clearance issues with the bpv hose, engine cover, or other areas. The only real concern that I have seen using standard hardware is at the BPV hose.
ahhh, okay. thanks! i have an 08 wrx, so i don't need to worry about the engine cover, but i didn't consider any BPV hose clearance issues... it'll be more fun to machine the zip tie channels in anyways. it does look cleaner with the zip ties too.
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Old 12-05-2012, 06:56 PM   #37
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haha.. theres more pictures than bolts needed to be removed
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Old 12-05-2012, 09:06 PM   #38
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sorry???
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Old 02-16-2013, 11:52 PM   #39
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This kit I bought uses the stainless straps. I borrowed the cv boot tool from my local Autozone to tighten down the straps. I accidentally over tightened and ruined one strap but there were three in the kit. Highly recommended mod to allow modding to be done without worries of end tank failure.
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Old 02-17-2013, 10:33 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXncrew View Post
This kit I bought uses the stainless straps. I borrowed the cv boot tool from my local Autozone to tighten down the straps. I accidentally over tightened and ruined one strap but there were three in the kit. Highly recommended mod to allow modding to be done without worries of end tank failure.
There's good reason that I include an extra zip tie with every kit that goes out There's a bit of a learning curve to tightening them properly, but once they're on there the install is really nice and clean.
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Old 02-18-2013, 12:12 AM   #41
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I will be in the market for this kit very soon.
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Old 03-05-2013, 06:04 PM   #42
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Anybody know who might sell the stainless steel zip ties? Auto Parts stores? Home Depot? ... I already ruined 2 of my 3. I didn't realize I needed a special tool until it was too late.
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:29 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by jlundy11 View Post
Anybody know who might sell the stainless steel zip ties? Auto Parts stores? Home Depot? ... I already ruined 2 of my 3. I didn't realize I needed a special tool until it was too late.
Got a Fastenall nearby? Not sure about auto parts stores, probably call and ask. Can't remember seeing any metal pull ties in Lowe's or Hime Depot, but checking on Lowes.com, they sell 11" cable ties: http://www.lowes.com/pd_118033-1781-...52_4294937087_
There's also McMaster-Carr if you can wait a couple days, they would likely have the proper length for the job. They have ties in lengths up to 42".

Last edited by gregroot198521; 03-05-2013 at 08:38 PM.
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Old 03-05-2013, 09:33 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by jlundy11 View Post
Anybody know who might sell the stainless steel zip ties? Auto Parts stores? Home Depot? ... I already ruined 2 of my 3. I didn't realize I needed a special tool until it was too late.
Pm'ing you now--obviously I have what you need since I probably shipped you the first ones, lol.
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Old 03-18-2013, 12:02 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarmanBean View Post
There's good reason that I include an extra zip tie with every kit that goes out There's a bit of a learning curve to tightening them properly, but once they're on there the install is really nice and clean.

And thank you for that sir...i used the tool you recommended for the zip ties and over torqued the first one and snap.. THATS when i laughed and realized why you included 3!! just installed mine today, deff. follow the directions and crimp all ends in as it makes installing the rails SO much easier FYI!
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:25 PM   #46
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You still making these? No recent update on your google page..
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Old 10-10-2013, 03:30 PM   #47
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Yup, still making them. I really only update that page as needed to indicate whether they are in stock or not The thread over on legacygt.com is more current with updates. The site is also setup to prevent purchase if I don't have them in stock. I don't want any payments coming through if I can't ship out withing 24-48 hours.

They're in stock at the moment, and while I try to avoid running out of them it looks like I might unfortunately miss the boat this time--need to get some more made up!
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Old 10-11-2013, 02:17 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BarmanBean View Post
Yup, still making them. I really only update that page as needed to indicate whether they are in stock or not The thread over on legacygt.com is more current with updates. The site is also setup to prevent purchase if I don't have them in stock. I don't want any payments coming through if I can't ship out withing 24-48 hours. They're in stock at the moment, and while I try to avoid running out of them it looks like I might unfortunately miss the boat this time--need to get some more made up!
Well i will be ordering a kit in a few days so put one aside for me
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Old 10-18-2013, 10:03 PM   #49
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Sounds cool lol
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Old 07-09-2015, 11:23 PM   #50
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Just got mine in the mail. I'll throw it on this weekend. Reason I'm doing it is because I'm at about 300whp right now and I figure 90 bucks is nothing to keep everything together until I buy a verticooler
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