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Old 10-13-2017, 08:46 AM   #1
MtnXfreeride
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Default Bolt Snapped on Turbo while Removing TMIC!!

A few years ago I had whistling under boost and the dealership re-affixed the TB-IC hose.

It started doing it again so I went to remove the TMIC and fix it again and sure enough when trying to remove one of the bolts from TMIC to Turbo one felt like it was crossthreaded and snapped like butter with barely any effort.

I kept going anyway and I could see once the TMIC was off that the clamp around the throttle body was on crooked and had dug into the rubber boot so it was really torn up.. Im pretty sure since it is actually torn up, this whole replacement would have been covered under my extended warranty... a simple re-adjustment of the hose would not have been covered, but replacing a covered part would be..

Anyway, I can deal with the torn boot on my own, but does anyone have any advice on removing this stuck bolt from the turbo?

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Old 10-13-2017, 10:27 AM   #2
MtnXfreeride
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oh the burn.. I found the part that is torn up and it is on the list of covered parts by my gold extended warranty plan...

I could have let them deal with the whole thing...
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:50 AM   #3
tocuyito
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Default Re: Bolt Snapped on Turbo while Removing TMIC!!

A similar thing happened to me on my previous 2013 WRX. I didn't snap the bolt, but slightly cross-threaded it. I was lucky and running a new bolt through fixed the threads right up. This issue has happened before and since it's broken, you'll most likely have to drill it out as it seems you don't have enough of the bolt to turn it out with vice grips or have someone weld a nut onto it. Over on the Legacy GT forums, people have drilled the bolts out and inserted a stud instead to avoid having the same issue occur in the future. If not, a heli-coil will be your other option. Hope this helps you out, I'll find you the link to that thread later today.
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Old 10-13-2017, 11:39 AM   #4
Tearly
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Try taking a Dremel with a thin cut off wheel and put a deep slot for a standard screw driver. Or file the top of the broken bolt flush, drill a hole for an easy-out bit. Either way be careful.
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Old 10-13-2017, 01:00 PM   #5
pigboat_2
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You'd think if the dealer was the last to work on the car, they should be responsible for replacing this?
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Old 10-13-2017, 03:41 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pigboat_2 View Post
You'd think if the dealer was the last to work on the car, they should be responsible for replacing this?
They are the only ones to ever remove my TMIC, but that was ~3 years ago to fix this same problem.

Its hard to claim they cross threaded it after the fact when I went on my own to take the bolt out. I dont even know if I want to "go there" with the dealer and just hope its easy for them to fix with their tools/experience.

The dremel idea sounds good - I decided to just let the dealership take it from here now that I know the part is covered. Ill mentioned that they would have run into the bolt doing it under warranty and see if that gets me anywhere. If it is an hour labor not covered, Ill suck it up. If it is more.. I think we will have a problem..

I have the car back together best I can.. I cannot get the top right bolt in to secure the TMIC as the ripped coupler rubber sorround part seems to keep me from getting the coupler far enough in to make the bolt line up.. and of course there is only 1 bolt holding the TMIC to the turbo the broken bolt kind of holds secure and lined up.. but I will only drive it carefully without boost to dealership.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:23 PM   #7
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Good luck. It's gonna drive like crap.
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Old 10-13-2017, 05:35 PM   #8
mrsaturn7085
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Pull the turbo, use a drill press to get the bolt bolt out, then Heli-coil the hole.

This is an easy fix that you will only make more difficult by trying to half ass the repair. Dremel the head and use a screwdriver? Good luck - it was stuck bad enough that you snapped the bolt... unless you think you can turn a screwdriver harder than the force needed to snap the bolt, this isn't gonna work...
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:55 PM   #9
tocuyito
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Here is the link I mentioned to hopefully prevent this moving forward: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...ds-75715.html?
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Old 10-16-2017, 12:34 PM   #10
MtnXfreeride
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Little late asking this question now.. but is it normal for that much oil to be going through that coupler into the TB? Its pooled in the coupler where it dips and the hose was saturated plus there was some oil dripped down on the parts below the coupler.

Im assuming its coming from the turbo?
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:13 PM   #11
acumenhokie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnXfreeride View Post
Little late asking this question now.. but is it normal for that much oil to be going through that coupler into the TB? Its pooled in the coupler where it dips and the hose was saturated plus there was some oil dripped down on the parts below the coupler.

Im assuming its coming from the turbo?
A film and some drops are normal. You shouldn't be pouring out oil. The best solution would be to install a catch can or air oil separator.
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Old 10-16-2017, 01:16 PM   #12
tmittleider
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Same thing happened on my 2011. Might be too late for OP, but thought I'd chime in with what worked for me.

With turbo in place (and covered to prevent stuff from getting inside), I very carefully drilled out most of the sheared bolt using progressively larger bits. Once most of the bolt was removed, I finished up with a tap. The tap dislodged the remainder of the bolt and cleaned up the threads. It was an easier fix than expected - I should've started with this. Easy-out didn't work, and I suspect the dremel option wouldn't have either.

I reinstalled using higher grade bolts to hopefully prevent this from happening again. The stud suggestion is also worth considering. It's crazy the stock bolts shear so easily.
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Old 10-16-2017, 06:16 PM   #13
Max Capacity
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FWIW, you should be using anti-seize compound on all threads.
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Old 10-17-2017, 12:50 PM   #14
MtnXfreeride
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Capacity View Post
FWIW, you should be using anti-seize compound on all threads.
The dealer is the only party to touch the bolts before. I do typically use high temp anti seize.



Alright, just got the call from the dealership - coupler replaced under gold plus warranty. Broken bolt on turbo drilled out and re-tapped. No charge.

That is twice they have really been understanding on issues Ive had.
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Old 10-17-2017, 05:52 PM   #15
Max Capacity
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Good to hear they took care of you.
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