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Old 03-29-2012, 08:05 PM   #701
Bennett Johnson
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Thanks the video solved my problem.
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:31 PM   #702
aeion
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I put the ones that were on my old Subaru onto my hardbody...in super awesome location haha. Ignore the terrible paint. They're going to get resprayed one of these days

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Old 04-09-2012, 03:33 PM   #703
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^nice spot
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Old 04-09-2012, 03:37 PM   #704
aeion
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Thanks! Hardbodies have holes already drilled in the fenders for various options that are the perfect size haha. I just drilled one for the rear horn for clearance purposes. But they work and look awesome under there lol
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Old 04-19-2012, 02:35 AM   #705
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Hey man thanks for the info!
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:50 AM   #706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subieguy87 View Post
^nice spot
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:09 PM   #707
Nortybignort
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I bought these a while ago and getting ready to install and I have a 5 pin relay. Should I just run two seperate wires from pin 87 and 87a to the positive side of the horns? Thanks for any help
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Old 04-23-2012, 01:18 PM   #708
aeion
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nortybignort View Post
I bought these a while ago and getting ready to install and I have a 5 pin relay. Should I just run two seperate wires from pin 87 and 87a to the positive side of the horns? Thanks for any help
I think that's what I did
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Old 04-23-2012, 09:46 PM   #709
dickiescoob
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I used this diagram, and it worked out perfectly.Got it from another post on here..


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Old 04-24-2012, 10:54 PM   #710
Nortybignort
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aeion View Post
I think that's what I did
Thanks
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Old 05-20-2012, 10:56 PM   #711
djtoone
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Any recommendations for positioning the horns further out from center? I assume just getting some metal pieces that are longer than the existing mounts, but ideas are welcome. (i.e. store-bought items that work well out of the box)
Thanks!
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:28 AM   #712
theoutbackdream
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Subiemods has a mounting bracket, which i believe makes the horns mount wider from the middle.
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Old 05-21-2012, 12:30 AM   #713
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
Subiemods has a mounting bracket, which i believe makes the horns mount wider from the middle.
Excellent. Thanks!
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:30 PM   #714
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkeel0 View Post
I used this diagram, and it worked out perfectly.Got it from another post on here..


I tried installing mine yesterday. I followed this diagram to the T, and couldn't get them to beep. Me after doing all of that work with zero results...>

Maybe my ground connections aren't solid? Would I need to shave off some paint to expose bare metal on the grounds?
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:45 PM   #715
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKillDMD
Maybe my ground connections aren't solid? Would I need to shave off some paint to expose bare metal on the grounds?
I believe that you just answered your own question. Lol but yea if I were you I would go back and recheck all your grounds and make sure your getting good contact to metal for all.
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Old 06-06-2012, 12:21 PM   #716
RoadKillDMD
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So, I got my grounds all settled and tried again... Nothing! So I go back through and check all the connections, and it turns out that the terminal rings I used for the horn ground were such pieces of crap, they literally fell apart from the inside. So I pull the wire out of the terminal ring and bolt it straight to the radiator mount, and wadayano! Walla,they work!

So now that I know not to get electrical components from AutoZone, where should I go to get quality electrical stuff that can handle this job?
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Old 06-06-2012, 01:15 PM   #717
theoutbackdream
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKillDMD
So, I got my grounds all settled and tried again... Nothing! So I go back through and check all the connections, and it turns out that the terminal rings I used for the horn ground were such pieces of crap, they literally fell apart from the inside. So I pull the wire out of the terminal ring and bolt it straight to the radiator mount, and wadayano! Walla,they work!

So now that I know not to get electrical components from AutoZone, where should I go to get quality electrical stuff that can handle this job?
Radioshack, frys, best buy... They worked for me...

Also you may have just bought the wrong crimp gauge. Happened to me at first since I wasn't paying attention.
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Old 06-06-2012, 05:43 PM   #718
RoadKillDMD
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream
Also you may have just bought the wrong crimp gauge. Happened to me at first since I wasn't paying attention.
It's definitely not that lol. I made that mistake when I first started the job. It was just the weird, cheap design on the particular one I got from AutoZone. There was a softer metal as a 'core' that crimped the wires together. That piece broke away from the rest of the ring assembly. IDK, it happened more than once and I don't have any more, so I need a different kind. I'll check at RS, thanks!
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:29 PM   #719
RoadKillDMD
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Ever heard of solder-filled ring terminals? Stay away, stay far away! I went through two packs, every one of them suffered the same fate. After crimping the wires, the solder guts itself from the rest of the ring terminal, taking the wires with it
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Old 06-08-2012, 02:58 PM   #720
frederik
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoadKillDMD View Post
Ever heard of solder-filled ring terminals? Stay away, stay far away! I went through two packs, every one of them suffered the same fate. After crimping the wires, the solder guts itself from the rest of the ring terminal, taking the wires with it
Would'nt you actually solder these terminals to your wires, and not crimp them? Soldering is a must if you ask me, I have not crimped a single connector. Just put the wire in, heat with soldering iron and let the solder penetrate. That makes for a good electrical AND mechanical link.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:36 PM   #721
theoutbackdream
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Solder will eventually fail due to the vibrations any car emits. Crimping works better due to with standing the vibrations better. Think about it most connections in your car are some by connectors, not solder joints.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:40 PM   #722
ubersu
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Best method, crimp then backfill with solder. The crimp provides the strength and the solder fills any voids.
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Old 06-08-2012, 03:48 PM   #723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theoutbackdream View Post
Solder will eventually fail due to the vibrations any car emits. Crimping works better due to with standing the vibrations better. Think about it most connections in your car are some by connectors, not solder joints.

Connections by connectors are sealed for the most part, so that they can be disconnected. Actually thinking about it I think I did crimp the connectors, and then soldered them.

If done correctly the solder make its way inside of the mechanical connection of crimping and strenghten the link. Depending on the environment (sealed from the elements or exposed) crimping risks oxydation and I think would actually be more sensitive to vibration because the wire allowed to move in the connector, not encapsulated like when properly soldered. Oxydation kind of disintegrate the wire slowly, so at some point it is smaller and eventually can come off. Even if the wire does not fall off the conductivity can also suffers.

But anyway, if you are going to crimp, don't use this type of connectors intended to be soldered. I have not seen this type of connectors myself, but from you description if it has an almost loose piece of solder waiting to be heated it will not make a good mechanical link when crimped.
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Old 06-08-2012, 04:30 PM   #724
theoutbackdream
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^Why do you think Airplanes Rely on mechanical connectors more than soldered connectors? Its because they are more reliable in heavy vibrations and cycles a plane goes through during flight.

Mechanical connectors are much more reliable than solder, and Solder can break apart easier than a mechanical connector.

You could solder the wire on to the connector to make sure it has a strong connection, but some people IMO will not know how to solder correctly, which will do more harm then done.
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Old 06-09-2012, 01:12 AM   #725
Mike Costin
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Yup, only thing worse than vampire clips is a bad solder job, particularly on unsupported wire. I've always had excellent results with 3M brand crimp connectors -- the kind you get at Grainger rather than Rat Shack. The heat shrink on the 3M connectors is superior than the generic connectors too
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