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Old 03-01-2011, 05:14 AM   #26
ihadmail
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FlashEngineer, that is a great idea with the studs. I had never thought of doing that. I always just fought with keeping everything lined up and level until I got the first couple of bolts in.

Alan, I hope my writeup helped you out some. Even though it was a hassle, now you won't have to worry about the pickup breaking in the future.
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:04 AM   #27
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it was a LOT easier to just unbolt the engine mounts and the 2 radiator clips and put a jack under the trans and jack it up an inch or so and bang the job out

it sounds like many of you are tearing your hair out for nothing
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Old 03-01-2011, 10:47 AM   #28
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^ This... Takes no time to remove the 2 motor mount nuts, loosen the pitch stop bolts and jack it up about 3/4-1" Makes the job 10000X easier.

I think a lot of people get nervous jacking up the motor, but it's EASY, and really makes the install an easier, faster, and less frustrating process.

Thanks for using our product and link/install...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MorphiasX View Post
MANY thanks for this DIY...

I just used it today to install my Killer B motorsports oil pickup tube...

I did it without dropping the exhaust, subframe, and swaybar though. I just dropped the plastic engine pan, jack plate, and loosened the motor mounts to jack the engine up for more clearance.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...4#post29507384
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Old 03-01-2011, 02:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihadmail View Post
Alan, I hope my writeup helped you out some. Even though it was a hassle, now you won't have to worry about the pickup breaking in the future.
Your writeup really helped a lot! Thanks for posting it! Now all I have to worry about is whether the pan is sealed well enough to prevent leaks in the future, and if I should have used some locktite on the internal bolts.
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Old 03-01-2011, 03:57 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan View Post
Your writeup really helped a lot! Thanks for posting it! Now all I have to worry about is whether the pan is sealed well enough to prevent leaks in the future, and if I should have used some locktite on the internal bolts.
I have stopped using loctite on most things unless it specifically calls for a particular loctite product and use the thread sealer instead....it is almost as grippy as the blue loctite and easier to deal with

one or the other.....

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ad_Sealant.htm


and the pan will leak or not...if it does.....well....
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Old 03-02-2011, 08:28 AM   #31
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<<--- never uses loctite unless it's called out

Most pans I've seen that leak, are because the surfaces were not prepped correctly. If the mating surfaces are completely clean when the liquid adheasive/gasket is installed you should never get a leak.
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Old 06-09-2011, 07:52 AM   #32
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Bumping this up real quick.

What is the best way to clean and prep the mating surfaces?
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Old 06-09-2011, 09:39 AM   #33
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i just completed this
(i lifted the engine bythe oil pan(to remove oil pan) and by the tranny(to re-install the oil pan)

-razor blade for the block
-used a dremel tool with a small round teflon brush for the oil pan

washed out the oil pan(to get all the grey gasket out) with degreaser and then brake cleaner.
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:27 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBenn View Post
i just completed this
(i lifted the engine bythe oil pan(to remove oil pan) and by the tranny(to re-install the oil pan)

-razor blade for the block
-used a dremel tool with a small round teflon brush for the oil pan

washed out the oil pan(to get all the grey gasket out) with degreaser and then brake cleaner.
Thanks!

As for the Ultra grey RTV silcone gasket; just went to a local auto store and found Permatex Ultra Grey, but it isn't rated as a high temp gasket maker. There is a Ultra Black which is high temp and maximum oil resistance and shows it to be used on oilpans or valve covers, where the Ultra Grey does not show oilpan usage. But, the Ultra Grey is a "Rigid High-Torque" gasket maker typically meant for foreign cars. Everyone uses the Ultra Grey here? Thoughts?
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Old 06-09-2011, 10:36 AM   #35
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i went with the recommened FUGI Bond.
like this:
http://www.fredbeansparts.com/index...._store=default



but check out my thread

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2194497
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:06 PM   #36
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Permatex Ultra Grey is high temp oil resistant. That's what I've used in all of my engine builds and have had zero issue caused by using it. Just make sure you give it at a minimum 12 hours to cure before you add oil back to the car.

If you prefer OEM go to a Honda dealership and get some HondaBond, it's cheaper than Fujibond and made by the same company.
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Old 06-09-2011, 01:56 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ihadmail View Post
If you prefer OEM go to a Honda dealership and get some HondaBond, it's cheaper than Fujibond and made by the same company.
Use the Hondabond HT, not regular Hondabond. Much better stuff, thicker, and easier to work with.
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Old 06-13-2011, 10:28 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gills View Post
Thanks!

As for the Ultra grey RTV silcone gasket; just went to a local auto store and found Permatex Ultra Grey, but it isn't rated as a high temp gasket maker. There is a Ultra Black which is high temp and maximum oil resistance and shows it to be used on oilpans or valve covers, where the Ultra Grey does not show oilpan usage. But, the Ultra Grey is a "Rigid High-Torque" gasket maker typically meant for foreign cars. Everyone uses the Ultra Grey here? Thoughts?
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

OEM specified. Designed specially for high-torque and high vibration applications, like those common in import engines, this premium RTV gasket maker exceeds manufacturers' performance requirements. Noncorrosive and low-odor. Maximum vibration resistance, with outstanding resistance to oils, cooling and shop fluids. Guaranteed not to leak. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.

Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings

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Old 06-13-2011, 11:52 PM   #39
gills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm

Permatex® Ultra Grey® Rigid High-Torque RTV Silicone Gasket Maker

OEM specified. Designed specially for high-torque and high vibration applications, like those common in import engines, this premium RTV gasket maker exceeds manufacturers' performance requirements. Noncorrosive and low-odor. Maximum vibration resistance, with outstanding resistance to oils, cooling and shop fluids. Guaranteed not to leak. Temperature range -65ºF to 500ºF (-54°C to 260°C) intermittent.

Suggested Applications: Valve covers, oil pans, intake manifold end seals, timing covers, water pumps, thermostat housings

Gracias! Just used it tonight. Fun job!
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:37 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gills View Post
Gracias! Just used it tonight. Fun job!
just let it set up for at LEAST 4-5 hours before ya put oil in it....overnight would be better
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Old 06-14-2011, 12:47 AM   #41
gills
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Scotty View Post
just let it set up for at LEAST 4-5 hours before ya put oil in it....overnight would be better
Indeed. I'm in no rush and I'm waiting on parts. Thanks.
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Old 07-30-2011, 12:37 PM   #42
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I have a 2005 Saabaru 2.0T. I was able to get the oil pan off doing nothing more than dropping the engine mount nuts and jacking the engine/transmission up via the tranny.

Just removed the drivers side wheel and put a block of wood on top of a jack and pushed it up.
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Old 05-23-2015, 02:27 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlashEngineer View Post
I found a cool trick in helping line up the pan to the motor. Go out and get some M6x1.00 studs and put 2-5 on the block. When you are ready with the gasket maker applied on the pan, just line up with the studs and you'll get pretty much 95% seating alignment. Then start screwing on the bolts and take out the studs and replace with bolts. (or you can just tighten down the studs and use nuts if you want)
Love that Idea!!! That way none of the gasket material get disturbed before mating.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:24 AM   #44
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Glad I found this thread. Doing the killer b oil pick up tube this weekend and baffle on my 05' STi.

I've got the car on a lift in my garage doing other things such as rotors/pads so it's have stripped anyways.

I thought it was weird seeing people say remove the subframe... seems a bit much?

So pretty much just jack the engine up like I did when I installed the Groupe-n motor mounts years ago and get to the 4 rear bolts on the pain.

I have stock headers and from looking under the car doesn't appear I need to remove any of that. The pan clearly looks like it will clear all of that.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:31 AM   #45
KillerBMotorsport
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Removing the sub-frame seems very unnecessary to me. Jacking the engine up like you did with the motor mounts install is a much easier route.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:33 PM   #46
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NewShockerGuy View Post
Glad I found this thread. Doing the killer b oil pick up tube this weekend and baffle on my 05' STi.

I've got the car on a lift in my garage doing other things such as rotors/pads so it's have stripped anyways.

I thought it was weird seeing people say remove the subframe... seems a bit much?

So pretty much just jack the engine up like I did when I installed the Groupe-n motor mounts years ago and get to the 4 rear bolts on the pain.

I have stock headers and from looking under the car doesn't appear I need to remove any of that. The pan clearly looks like it will clear all of that.

Thanks,
-Nigel
Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
Removing the sub-frame seems very unnecessary to me. Jacking the engine up like you did with the motor mounts install is a much easier route.
Agreed. Just did this a month or so ago on my sons car (Killer Bee pickup and baffle) on a 04RS with full 05 STi swap.
My major note, jacking the engine up enough caused the main battery positive on the starter to contact the master cylinder, melted the battery ground cable and wiring by the rear passengers door.

No, didn't burn the car to the ground.
Yes, had to do many wire fixes to kill ABS and other codes.......

So, no, just remove engine mount to crossmember nuts, jack engine up (watch the starter wire) and do the swap!
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Old 10-13-2017, 02:31 AM   #47
NewShockerGuy
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So let me ask one more silly question. When I did the motor mounts I lifted the engine up via the oil pan and a block of wood on the ground. Did it just enough to slip in the new mounts/brackets.

Since I am going to be removing the pan I see that people are lifting the engine up slightly by the headers?

Killer b found a picture I think related to your install? If not allowed I will remove.


Are we saying lift the engine up in by using the header directly dead center. IE: In front of oil pan? As seen in the picture above. Where there is a "bulge" and the heat shield has "Subaru" on it. For some reason that's asking for something to snap to me? But just wanted to double check. I'm running stock oem headers.

Thanks,
-Nigel
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Old 10-13-2017, 07:08 AM   #48
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This install guide was done by a shop, and I've noticed everyone has their own preference. My preference is to follow the FSM which recommends lifting at the bottom of the front diff. This way you're not putting stress on the pan or manifold. I've done this many times without issue, but I'm sure the other methods work just fine too.
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Old 10-13-2017, 09:23 AM   #49
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KillerBMotorsport View Post
This install guide was done by a shop, and I've noticed everyone has their own preference. My preference is to follow the FSM which recommends lifting at the bottom of the front diff. This way you're not putting stress on the pan or manifold. I've done this many times without issue, but I'm sure the other methods work just fine too.
I do the same, front diff as a jacking point. Helps to use a 6" long 4x4 on top of the jack to clear exhaust bits.
I REALLY hate putting any loads on exhaust, especially an older one. Never know when you will crunch a pipe, bend a pipe, create gasket leaks.
We got the car up on stands, then brought the jack in from behind the front wheel so it was out of our way to drop the pan.
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