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Old 01-23-2002, 10:36 PM   #1
HonduhEater
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Default turboxs stage 1 peak boost

hi

not really sure why but according to my oem column mount boost gauge im maxing out at .72 bar in 1st and .9 in 2nd. Whats the deal here anyone else experiencing the same at around 38F? I saw .9 and 1.1 respectively when it was about 15 degrees colder out. This was when i first installed the gauge. That reading seemed about right so i was happy...now im not. What is everyone else reading with the same setup.

One more thing, mine is the original stage 1 with the K&N but without the muffler, and without the boost controller
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Old 01-23-2002, 10:51 PM   #2
HonduhEater
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just a little added thought...

there have been some extreme variations in weather around here lately...do you think that maybe the factory ecu may be limiting boost when its warmer because the boost was really high when it was really cold??
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Old 01-23-2002, 10:56 PM   #3
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I would use 4th gear as a guage and try to keep peak boost in 4th below .11MPa (16psi) for safety reasons. Some may keep it higher but that's a safe number. The higher the gear the higher the boost will go.
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Old 01-23-2002, 11:08 PM   #4
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what kind of hardware would you need to get conistent 16psi in all gears or is it just not possible
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Old 01-24-2002, 12:26 PM   #5
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anybody?
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Old 01-25-2002, 04:21 PM   #6
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I'm not the expert but I know it would have to be electronic like a unichip or electronic boost controller (EBC.)

I think there are reasons why the boost tapers (changes) but I can't tell you the specifics...
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Old 01-25-2002, 05:09 PM   #7
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I ain't no expert either but you would deffinantly need something like a AVC-R or an Electronic boost control, and I am pretty sure that the reason boost varies is the load on the engine in accordence to the timing and fuel per gear, the ECU does advances and cuts timing based on these things. I am pretty sure there are tuners on the boards that can answer better than me but that is the just of it I believe .....But like I said I don't know the engine well enough yet to state exact facts.

HTH ~Brian
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Old 01-25-2002, 09:06 PM   #8
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so obviously the unichip alone cant do it
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Old 01-25-2002, 09:21 PM   #9
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Yes the unichip can do that. I bet you bought the chip with a generic map. Not all cars are alike so not all cars should use the same map. I have a unichip and had a custom map made with my car on a dyno. Having a custom map gained me about 15ph. I also know that the timming and A/F is correct. We tuned the car so that there was no detonation and EGTs were under control. If you are able take your car in and have it dyoned and a custom map made.
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Old 01-25-2002, 11:11 PM   #10
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I think it's something more basic.

The turbo doesn't have enough time to fully spool in 1st and 2nd.

I highly doubt an EBC or MBC will magically let him have more boost in 1st and 2nd. I also doubt that the Unichip map holds boost back in 1st and 2nd, which is the only way that an MBC or EBC would help substantially.

You may also have a leak somewhere in the intake tract that is preventing pressure from building as quickly. For me the easiest way to figure this out is to cruise at 70, then stab the throttle, listen for whistling that wasn't there before. Also boost response will be really slow. This would also cause lower boost in the lower gears.
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Old 01-25-2002, 11:30 PM   #11
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If I get the TurboXS unichip, how much does it cost to dyno tune it??
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Old 01-26-2002, 12:29 AM   #12
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For a stock car they have a generic map that works well, as with any of their 'stage' setups. The problems come when you deviate from the set mods that they have mapped out.

In this case, I think the way TurboXS does it is to charge a base fee (something like $100) plus somewhere around $150 an hour for dyno time.
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Old 01-26-2002, 01:47 AM   #13
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About how long do you figure it takes to tune one of these? Or do they already have a map for an automatic WRX with AEM CAI that you know of?
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Old 01-26-2002, 03:26 AM   #14
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I wouldn't pay for a tune with just a CAI, seems like a waste of a lot of money.

On stock exhaust bits, I wouldn't think a CAI would buy you much more than fooling the MAF so that you run a bit leaner. Sure it will be less pressure to pull air in, but the exhaust side is significantly more restriction than the intake side (as stock).

I know most people don't like to do it, but you might consider putting back the stock airbox and just getting the unichip with the stock map. You'd see significant gains from the leaning of the mixture that TurboXS will have already programmed into your map. Boost control would add more.

Save the CAI later for when you add a new turbo and really need tuning.

You may want to call TurboXS and ask them about the CAI with the different maps to see if they have any concern. I know shiv specifically insists that the stock airbox AND filter be used with his Stage 0 kit.
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