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Old 07-15-2016, 12:07 PM   #1
AE1360
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Member#: 309792
Join Date: Feb 2012
Default [02 Bugeye] Help diagnosing A/C Problem (clutch not engaging)

This is on a 2002 Hybrid WRX.

Ok here is the issue. AC hadn't been working for awhile, I determined it was the high pressure line that was leaking. I knew the clutch and compressor weren't in the best of shape either so I put off repairing the high side line.

I went to replace the AC line and the bolt for one end broke off inside the condenser. So I replaced the condenser. Filled her up, clutch kicked on, started working again. Had AC for a few weeks until I went on a trip and it stopped about 10 minutes in (go figure). I should also mention at this time that the cabin fan/blower would intermittently just stop working as well. I replaced the compressor this time, as I couldn't get it to engage and it was pretty rough as it was.

Ok so here is where I am:
-New compressor with the whole 1 wire plug problem going to the original 3 wire harness. I have it wired correctly though. See this post for detailed photos of basically what I am talking about.

-Compressor clutch won't engage to take any refrigerant.

-I tested the power and it is getting power, it just isn't enough. If I run a wire from the battery to the single clutch wire, it fires right up.

-I tested the relay to see if that was the problem, it isn't.

So does anyone have any troubleshooting steps for me?
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Old 07-15-2016, 02:05 PM   #2
z
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attach vacuum pump/AC manifold...

Pull vacuum.

Re
Connect r-134a can to system when it's still under vacuum, it will suck everything right in and hopefully give you enough pressure in the system to get the compressor to kick in.
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Old 07-15-2016, 02:29 PM   #3
anjuna
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Quote:
Originally Posted by z View Post
attach vacuum pump/AC manifold...

Pull vacuum.

Re
Connect r-134a can to system when it's still under vacuum, it will suck everything right in and hopefully give you enough pressure in the system to get the compressor to kick in.
This.

To elaborate.
Using a 2 gauge, 3 line AC gauge set, tie the yellow line to your vacuum pump and the red to high side (on my bugeye it's near the compressor) and blue to the low side (on my bugeye it's near the firewall).

open both valves on the gauge set and allow the vacuum pump to run for a hour or two. You've had the lines open so there's a good chance of water in the lines. It will boil out under vacuum.

Then close the valves, turn off the vacuum pump, connect up some r134, open the tank, bleed the yellow line (by opening slightly at the gauge set then closing again) and then open up both valves. You'll see the tank pressure on both valves. Close both valves before continuing.

Start the car. Turn the AC on high fan, full cool. Your compressor will run. Look at the high side pressure and low side pressure. ONLY open the low side pressure valve to add freon into the system. Set the pressures how you see fit (on my EJ207 with JDM compressor, I see 160psi on the high side at idle. I think USDM is higher pressure at idle).
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Old 07-15-2016, 05:10 PM   #4
AE1360
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by z View Post
attach vacuum pump/AC manifold...

Pull vacuum.

Re
Connect r-134a can to system when it's still under vacuum, it will suck everything right in and hopefully give you enough pressure in the system to get the compressor to kick in.
Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
This.

To elaborate.
Using a 2 gauge, 3 line AC gauge set, tie the yellow line to your vacuum pump and the red to high side (on my bugeye it's near the compressor) and blue to the low side (on my bugeye it's near the firewall).

open both valves on the gauge set and allow the vacuum pump to run for a hour or two. You've had the lines open so there's a good chance of water in the lines. It will boil out under vacuum.

Then close the valves, turn off the vacuum pump, connect up some r134, open the tank, bleed the yellow line (by opening slightly at the gauge set then closing again) and then open up both valves. You'll see the tank pressure on both valves. Close both valves before continuing.

Start the car. Turn the AC on high fan, full cool. Your compressor will run. Look at the high side pressure and low side pressure. ONLY open the low side pressure valve to add freon into the system. Set the pressures how you see fit (on my EJ207 with JDM compressor, I see 160psi on the high side at idle. I think USDM is higher pressure at idle).
Appreciate ya'll help. Turns out it was a blown fuse...

When I first had AC problems after the initial repair 2 weeks ago, the first thing I did was check fuses and relays. Checked relayed again last night after installing new compressor. Didn't check fuse until an hour ago. Somehow blew in the last two weeks. Go figure. 1 can of r134 and she is blowing cold.
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Old 08-30-2024, 06:37 PM   #5
antun
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Default

In your steps, you fill from the low pressure side (with engine running), but the Subaru shop manual says to charge the high-pressure side first (with engine off), and after that fill from the low-pressure side (engine running). Does that matter at all?

I'm trying to charge the system myself, and I followed the low-pressure-first approach, but it compressor never clicked on, and so the system didn't charge. I'm wondering if that detail about starting on the high pressure side does something with the cutoff switch?


Quote:
Originally Posted by anjuna View Post
Start the car. Turn the AC on high fan, full cool. Your compressor will run. Look at the high side pressure and low side pressure. ONLY open the low side pressure valve to add freon into the system. Set the pressures how you see fit (on my EJ207 with JDM compressor, I see 160psi on the high side at idle. I think USDM is higher pressure at idle).
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Old 08-31-2024, 06:47 AM   #6
Charlie-III
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Quote:
Originally Posted by antun View Post
In your steps, you fill from the low pressure side (with engine running), but the Subaru shop manual says to charge the high-pressure side first (with engine off), and after that fill from the low-pressure side (engine running). Does that matter at all?

I'm trying to charge the system myself, and I followed the low-pressure-first approach, but it compressor never clicked on, and so the system didn't charge. I'm wondering if that detail about starting on the high pressure side does something with the cutoff switch?
Most haven't been on here in 4 years.
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Old 09-01-2024, 03:09 PM   #7
antun
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Default

I realize this was an old thread, but the forums wouldn't let me start a new one until I've posted a minimum number of replies on existing threads :/
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