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Old 06-05-2020, 11:23 PM   #1
Yellowbeard
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Default Rear Diff removal/installation without removing rear wheels

I looked around and the only videos I found to remove the rear diff said you had to remove the rear wheels and remove the knuckle bolts (and the sway bar bolts in some cases).

I didn't want to do that for... reasons (you'll see in the video). And I was pretty convinced I could get it out without doing that.

I didn't think to film the removal, but I did film the installation of the new diff which, in the words of old Haynes manuals is "the reverse of removal."

This only works if you manage to get the studs out of the rear mount portion of your diff (mine came out on their own, else I would have never thought of this).

Anyway, here are some pictures of a modification I added to my jack and a couple of videos.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Icx...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1E72...ew?usp=sharing

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Old 06-05-2020, 11:27 PM   #2
Yellowbeard
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By the way, so far this does NOT work with the transmission/front diff. I am stuck at the moment and trying to figure out how to get my axles loose, which is a LOT more difficult than I expected. If anyone has advice, I am listening.

Thanks in advance if you do.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:41 AM   #3
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Where there's a will, there's a way. Considering most drivelines between years are direct swaps, I'd hazard a guess that this would apply to most Subaru's out there.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:45 AM   #4
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As for front axles, I'm imagining that people are removing the front axles from the hub side as well, but if you separate the control arm instead, the hub assembly should be able to swing out far enough for the diff side of the axle to clear.

I'd have to look at Subaru suspension design again, but aside from a few other things off the top of my head (sway bar, brake and abs lines), you shouldn't have to unbolt shocks or nothing like that. Getting the control arm separated might be a bit of a chore.
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Old 06-06-2020, 03:42 AM   #5
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For the fronts, take off the axle nuts, and the wheels. Undo the castle nuts for the tie rods and the ball joints. Unbolt one end of each end link on the sway bar. Pull the control arms down away from the ball joints.

The strut/hub should swing out far enough to get the axle out. You might have to tap the end of the axle with a hammer to get it to slide out.

Doing it this way should also preserve your alignment.
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Old 06-06-2020, 09:22 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortonCharbo View Post
For the fronts, take off the axle nuts, and the wheels. Undo the castle nuts for the tie rods and the ball joints. Unbolt one end of each end link on the sway bar. Pull the control arms down away from the ball joints.



The strut/hub should swing out far enough to get the axle out. You might have to tap the end of the axle with a hammer to get it to slide out.



Doing it this way should also preserve your alignment.
Just curious. Could he leave the axle nut in place and disconnect everything else you mentioned (control arm, tie rod, sway bar)? That should leave him being able to pull the axle out of off the trans side with the strut assembly, no? It's been a while since I've seen the suspension last so I'm not sure if there's something I'm missing.
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Old 06-06-2020, 09:56 AM   #7
Yellowbeard
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Default Rear Diff removal/installation without removing rear wheels

So far what I’ve done is:

Removed both bolts holding the knuckle to the suspension and the castle nut so I could remove the tie rod. That seemed like it was giving me a lot of clearance but I still couldn’t get the axle out of the transmission side. I was really surprised at how deep they go in there.

Now, I HAD worked the transmission back just a touch (it’s still on the studs coming off the engine though, so not THAT much). Wondering if that’s the problem?
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Old 06-06-2020, 11:43 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortonCharbo View Post
For the fronts, take off the axle nuts, and the wheels. Undo the castle nuts for the tie rods and the ball joints. Unbolt one end of each end link on the sway bar. Pull the control arms down away from the ball joints.

The strut/hub should swing out far enough to get the axle out. You might have to tap the end of the axle with a hammer to get it to slide out.

Doing it this way should also preserve your alignment.
Definitely not true. Once you start taking apart the front end, you just lost your alignment.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellowbeard
By the way, so far this does NOT work with the transmission/front diff. I am stuck at the moment and trying to figure out how to get my axles loose, which is a LOT more difficult than I expected. If anyone has advice, I am listening.
Question:
Did you remove the pins holding the axles to the transmission axle stud?

Last edited by Samurai Jack; 06-06-2020 at 11:48 AM.
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Old 06-06-2020, 12:25 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Definitely not true. Once you start taking apart the front end, you just lost your alignment.



Question:
Did you remove the pins holding the axles to the transmission axle stud?
Removing and replacing fixed non adjustable points changes alignment? You're not changing the length of the tie rods, or the position of the ball joints. Any change in alignment is negligible. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but how would that change your alignment?

Also, good point mentioning the pins. Those are easy to overlook.


ETA: just read he took out the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. That makes the debate about alignment a moot point lol. An alignment is definitely needed now.

Last edited by MortonCharbo; 06-06-2020 at 12:49 PM.
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Old 06-06-2020, 01:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortonCharbo View Post
Removing and replacing fixed non adjustable points changes alignment? You're not changing the length of the tie rods, or the position of the ball joints. Any change in alignment is negligible. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but how would that change your alignment?



Also, good point mentioning the pins. Those are easy to overlook.





ETA: just read he took out the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle. That makes the debate about alignment a moot point lol. An alignment is definitely needed now.


Wait.... My thoughts align with yours above re:alignment but diverge regarding the bolts holding the strut to the knuckle.

So, there are two bolts holding the strut on the top of the knuckle. There doesn’t really seem to be any adjustment there but maybe I’m incorrect? Is there rotational adjustment, maybe?

As for the ball joint, I would think that’s a relatively fixed spot. I did not change the length of the tie rod end, so that seems like it wouldn’t change much.

I DID end up getting this out this morning thanks to sage wisdom from this site. I had to take off both ends of the ball joints simultaneously (which makes sense in hindsight but hadn’t occurred to me before) and then both axles were able to be moved far enough to pull loose. It certainly does NOT seem like they could have been removed w/o taking the struts loose, but maybe I’m missing a secret.

However, I had assumed that if I just bolted everything back up (which I have done, because I put the wheels back on because I hate being under there without them) that I could escape an alignment so I am glad you mentioned this. Thanks!
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:00 PM   #11
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The one of the two bolts (the top one, iirc) holding the strut to the knuckle is a camber bolt. If you look closely at the bolt, you'll see the body of the bolt is not a standard, "straight body" bolt, if you will. If one isn't, then someone's messed with it before or you have two camber bolts on one side.
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Old 06-06-2020, 02:26 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by viper_crazy View Post
The one of the two bolts (the top one, iirc) holding the strut to the knuckle is a camber bolt. If you look closely at the bolt, you'll see the body of the bolt is not a standard, "straight body" bolt, if you will. If one isn't, then someone's messed with it before or you have two camber bolts on one side.


I actually DID notice this and also that someone (probably the seller, who was meticulous and awesome and has made me a better mechanic by example and envy) had painted a white line across the whole thing in some sort of alignment type deal, I now realize, so this makes more sense.
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Old 06-06-2020, 03:02 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MortonCharbo View Post
Removing and replacing fixed non adjustable points changes alignment? You're not changing the length of the tie rods, or the position of the ball joints. Any change in alignment is negligible. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but how would that change your alignment?
Only because you asked me to, your are wrong, or should I say incorrect.

Disconnecting the steering knuckles aside . . .

Once the ball joints are disconnected, you just screwed with your alignment.
- All the parts work together in harmony.
- Disconnect one or more of those parts and they are no longer in harmony. You have changed their relationship tp each other and in this case, your alignment.

Even a small change can have a big result in alignment spec changes.
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:11 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
Only because you asked me to, your are wrong, or should I say incorrect.

Disconnecting the steering knuckles aside . . .

Once the ball joints are disconnected, you just screwed with your alignment.
- All the parts work together in harmony.
- Disconnect one or more of those parts and they are no longer in harmony. You have changed their relationship tp each other and in this case, your alignment.

Even a small change can have a big result in alignment spec changes.
Well, I am certainly glad you said something. Thank you for the info! Once I am up and running I will have an alignment done.
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Old 06-06-2020, 10:29 PM   #15
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Yes, even disconnecting parts like the lower ball joint or outer tie rod ends can affect alignment. Their internals don't wear perfectly even, they wear based on driving habits. Even if you manage to not spin the ball joint side, there is no way to exactly clock the knuckle where it was when you disconnected them, and therein lies the issue.

The knuckle bolts also affect camber after removing, even if you use lines on the bolts, because you don't know if the previous aligner was turning the bolt clockwise or counterclockwise before they tightened it. There is slack on the opposite side of the lobe, and who knows which side it was?

Alignments are super easy on imprezas (well aside from camber, which takes some skill), so an alignment after any suspension related work is a great idea.
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:21 PM   #16
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Quote:
Question:
Did you remove the pins holding the axles to the transmission axle stud?
...I am assuming not because I don't know what these are. I will look that up. Thanks!
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Old 06-07-2020, 02:28 PM   #17
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2 basic type of axles: Male and Female.

The transmission has a stud that the axle connects to:
- Male slides into the transmission axle stud
- Female slides over the transmission axle stud

I can't remember exactly where along the stud the pin is located but I believe the pin is closer to the transmission side, but if you look closely you will see a pin. That pin runs through both axle studs to hold them together.

You will need a hammer and a small punch to remove the pin.
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Old 06-08-2020, 09:33 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samurai Jack View Post
2 basic type of axles: Male and Female.

The transmission has a stud that the axle connects to:
- Male slides into the transmission axle stud
- Female slides over the transmission axle stud

I can't remember exactly where along the stud the pin is located but I believe the pin is closer to the transmission side, but if you look closely you will see a pin. That pin runs through both axle studs to hold them together.

You will need a hammer and a small punch to remove the pin.
Correct, the pin is real close to the trans. A "just under 1/4"" punch works.
Note, some years the pin hole is not on the centerline, so when reassembling, look through the hole before inserting the pin.
Lined up?, go for it.
Slightly off?, pull axle and rotate 180* and then insert the pin.
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