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Old 08-16-2007, 10:25 AM   #1
JOWANKEL
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Default A few problems w/ new WRX

Hello,

I've just recently purchased a 04' WRX JBP, 44k on odo., and a few modifications already done to it. I'm throwing a few CEL codes and would like to narrow down my problem areas and replace what I've got to.

As for modifications (just for reference):

Apexi N1 Catback exhaust
Unknown brand mid-pipe catless
Bell mouth Unknown brand downpipe catless (can find out if neccesary)
Injen IS Shortram Intake (I believe, doesnt have and brand name?)

I just recently found, zip tied to the engine bay a manual boost controller of unknown brand.

Now, for the CEL codes:
I'm throwing p0171-Fuel trim malfunction (A/F too lean),
p0301, **302, **303,**304-Cylinder 1,2,3,4 misfire detected,
and a p0244-Wastegate control solenoid valve malfunction (high input)

after further inspection of the exhaust system I have noticed that the rear 02 sensor is hooked up and its reading about a 3.5 on my meter, and I've inspected the downpipe right behind the turbo for the front 02 sensor and I've found the bung where I believe its "supose" to be but there is just a plug in it, and I cant find the unhooked 02 sensor anywhere?

Run conditons of the vehicle are difficult to describe but I will try my hardest. Well for one it will backfire once in a while which I am thinking is because it is running to lean. When I am in 3rd gear and up, if I step on it or even 75% throttle, it seems to start spooling up but flutters and spikes. It will hit hard and then let off rapidly, and sometimes it will start shaking the whole car if I keep into it?

Thanks in advance for the help! If you have and questions that would help in the diagnosis, please feel free to ask.

Thanks,
Joshua Oleyar
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Old 08-16-2007, 11:54 AM   #2
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The front 02 sensor should NOT be in the downpipe - you should find it in the RH header (below the uppipe) - the extra bung in the downpipe is probably for an aftermarket AFR probe.

You need to remove the MBC and find out ASAP what engine management is being run - if the answer is 'none' then you need to fix that right away.
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UkNuck View Post
The front 02 sensor should NOT be in the downpipe - you should find it in the RH header (below the uppipe) - the extra bung in the downpipe is probably for an aftermarket AFR probe.

You need to remove the MBC and find out ASAP what engine management is being run - if the answer is 'none' then you need to fix that right away.
I concurr with the assement. It sounds as if the parts are on and not properly tuned. Accessport might be the easiest solution. Good luck.
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:22 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnicornKITTYlove View Post
I concurr with the assement. It sounds as if the parts are on and not properly tuned. Accessport might be the easiest solution. Good luck.
Yeah, get a tune. You might want to lose the intake and put the stocker back on unless you plan on getting a pro tune. Get an accessPort and flash to stage 2 if you don't want to get a pro tune. That should make your car much happier.

Sell the intake and the MBC and put it toward EM.
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:29 PM   #5
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Thanks alot guys.

I was just out looking in the engine bay and found the hose from the stock boost solenoid plugged up with a bolt!!! and the hose from the turbo to the wastegate acctuator being controlled by a MBC with no aftermarket engine managment or chip! So I am going to go out to the auto parts store and pick up a T fitting and hook the boost solenoid back up in between the wastegate accuator and turbo line!

I will have to lift the car up to check about the front 02 sensor, that would make sense why I dont see a unplugged 02 sensor just hanging around. I am going to be putting the stock exhaust system back on the vehicle this weekend, and hopefully that fixes the lean A/F mixture code and the mis-firing codes!

Do you guys think there will be any long term damage from running it this way? and if so what should I look out for?

Thanks again!,
Joshua Oleyar
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:47 PM   #6
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ditch the intake and the MBC for now ..
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:28 PM   #7
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Went to the auto parts store and picked up another T fitting. Installed it in between the turbo and wastegate line. Took the car for a run down the street and my boost gauage is showing .05 MPa's. Before switching it back to the stock boost solenoid I was running about 1.0 MPa's? from my calculations .05 MPa's is around 8 psi? is this normal?

I also notice that the boost going up the bower band is much smoother and not shuttering as much but still is a little at around 5k rpm's?

Thanks for the advise, I will be taking everything off this weekend and converting it completely back to stock, and start over from there. I just hope there isnt any damage that has already accured.


Thanks,
Joshua Oleyar
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Old 08-16-2007, 02:51 PM   #8
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.05 mpa is wastegate pressure. Clean out the stock boost controller with some brake cleaner or something, hook it back up. Check for any loose hoses around the turbo, IC, and, bov. Ziptie the ends if they have no clamps. Then adjust the waste game arm, it might have too much slack. Pop off the c-clip holding the arm to the wastegate, pull up to release it. Make a few turns to shorten it. Then put it back on.

Also put the stock intake box back in if you have it. Then get a reflash for the up/dp. Check EM forum for options.
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:03 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOWANKEL View Post
Went to the auto parts store and picked up another T fitting. Installed it in between the turbo and wastegate line. Took the car for a run down the street and my boost gauage is showing .05 MPa's. Before switching it back to the stock boost solenoid I was running about 1.0 MPa's? from my calculations .05 MPa's is around 8 psi? is this normal?

I also notice that the boost going up the bower band is much smoother and not shuttering as much but still is a little at around 5k rpm's?

Thanks for the advise, I will be taking everything off this weekend and converting it completely back to stock, and start over from there. I just hope there isnt any damage that has already accured.


Thanks,
Joshua Oleyar
this is an easy fix. ill bet if you feel the hose (with your hand) that is coming off of the turbo high pressure nipple to the "T" it does not have a restrictor in it. you'll feel a distinct bump in the hose if it does. the restrictor changes the way the air flows to the boost controller and the wastegate and if its not there you will only get wastegate boost which is 8psi.

So there are three hoses there.. one from the turbo to the "T" (with the restrictor in it), a short one to the wastegate (big round gold thing), and the other longer one leads to the factory solenoid.

Dont mess with the wastegate arm just yet IMO as mentioned previously. Its common for people to change the hoses when installing a MBC like your previous owner most likely did.


I happen to have an extra set of stock hoses sitting on a blown stock turbo in my garage i could easily mail it to you if you find you need them. just pm me.

Last edited by PaulRex; 08-16-2007 at 03:16 PM.
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Old 08-16-2007, 03:11 PM   #10
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You need to get some EM (I know its been said), changing exhausts and intakes on a turbo car isnt the same as a NA car. It needs to be tuned for the changes. Ditch the hot air intake and put your stocker back on. Removing the MBC and re-installing the stock EBC was a good move also.
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Old 08-16-2007, 04:39 PM   #11
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Thanks for your advice, I will be installing the stock ait box, full stock exhaust back on this saturday. So I can hopefully clear the codes and start fresh.

What do you guys recomend for EM. I plan only having minor mod.'s nothing big yet. BOV, up/dp (w/ cat), axle back exhaust, some type of boost controller/ monitoring system, and CAI? My check book is open but would like to be within reason.

Thanks again,
Joshua

P.S. (PaulRex)- I'll let you know about the hoses, I'm not home to check and see if the restrictor is in there or not, and to see what condition the hoses are in. I'll let you know. Thanks alot!
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:10 PM   #12
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there are three options for EM, well there are alot more but these are the most popular i think

Ecutek (tuning with the stock ECU, actually changing the parameters and setting of the stock ECU.)

UTEC (piggybacks onto stock ECU but otherwise functions like standalone engine mgm't) <-- this is the best IMO if your tunign yourself

Cobb Access Port - (never used this one so i cant comment, but you can also make changes yourself I believe)

but search those basically..


also fill out your profile
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:39 PM   #13
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Joshua

One other thing to do is a compression test. I'm not saying you have LOTS to worry about, but with its present conditions, CEL codes, and past history with previous owner - a comp. test will be money well spent. Even if you fix the issues of engine management and plumbing routing and what-not, it won't matter if you have a fouled engine. Good luck.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulRex View Post
there are three options for EM, well there are alot more but these are the most popular i think

Ecutek (tuning with the stock ECU, actually changing the parameters and setting of the stock ECU.)

UTEC (piggybacks onto stock ECU but otherwise functions like standalone engine mgm't) <-- this is the best IMO if your tunign yourself

Cobb Access Port - (never used this one so i cant comment, but you can also make changes yourself I believe)

but search those basically..


also fill out your profile
Also Enginuity...
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Old 08-16-2007, 08:21 PM   #15
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and OpenEcu
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Old 08-17-2007, 12:22 AM   #16
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I'll do a compression test this weekend! Can someone point me in the right direction, for the procedure to do this? I know i've seen it somewhere around here I just can't seem to find it...

Thanks,
Joshua
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Old 08-17-2007, 08:30 AM   #17
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It's in the FAQ and Threads of Note sticky at the top of this forum...
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Old 08-19-2007, 03:01 PM   #18
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Well, threw the stock exhaust back on, and air box. Car is running perfect now. Very smooth up the power band, with no shutter or boost spikes. Drove it home last night and it threw another CEL, so I will be plugging up the computer again today to see what code its still throwing, I'm thinking its probably a faulty 02 sensor, since they were looking pretty nasty. Hopefully replacing them will fix it. We'll see this afternoon.

Best news yet! I also did a compression test on all four pistons. #1 150, #2 150, #3 150, #4 155 and that was without holding the throttle in! Needless to say Im happy with those numbers, so atleast the guy I bought this car from didnt completely screw it up.

Thanks,
Joshua
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Old 08-20-2007, 02:58 PM   #19
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Throwing code po171, which is Fuel trim malfunction (A/F too lean)? What would be causing that?

I've ordered the orifice restrictor pill from subaruparts.com and am going out tonight to pick up a new rear 02 sensor. But the code that its throwing doesnt have to do with the 02 sensor does it?

Thanks,
Joshua
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Old 08-20-2007, 03:33 PM   #20
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Just letting you know that a misfire on all 4 cyl could be the sign of a lightened flywheel.
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Old 08-21-2007, 02:25 AM   #21
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Also, check the oil residue in the oil catch pan when you do your next oil change, and inspect what's left in it closely, or send it to blackstone labs for an analysis. I found gold flakes in mine today (rod bearing about to go?). I thought my lightly mod'd '04 wrx was in good health
Selling 1/2 case of Mobile 1 5W30 for cheap, no guarantees it'll work though!
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Old 10-19-2007, 03:44 PM   #22
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Hey Josh,

You aren't related to Mike Oleyar, are you? That would be some deep Subie history, man.
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