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Old 06-25-2017, 08:04 PM   #29401
Invisible3mpire
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Replaced the front drive axle on Friday. Also, received my new tire from TR yesterday--had it shaved down to 6/32 to match the rest. First time ever using their shaving service, and they did an excellent job, definitely recommended.
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Old 06-25-2017, 08:21 PM   #29402
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My poor car... CVT hit 216f today. Trying to go up and down big hills at highway speeds with the AC on full blast. 100 degrees outside. It was really hesitant to go above 5000rpm because I haven't done so lately, so the learned programming seems to make it try to stay at a lower RPM when accelerating. Would rather have just gone straight to redline honestly.
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Old 06-25-2017, 08:27 PM   #29403
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Try a 180F thermostat if those temps bother you.
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Old 06-25-2017, 08:56 PM   #29404
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commander Keen View Post
Try a 180F thermostat if those temps bother you.
It doesn't too much really. Certainly not after seeing the fluid at around 280f driving across the country.
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Old 06-27-2017, 02:22 PM   #29405
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Decided to pick up some more CVTF. Will wait until the brutal part of summer is over so all the burning gets done, then get that crap out, probably drain, fill, drive a day or two, drain, fill, and possibly once more.

After that I think I'll be doing it every 15,000- 22,500 miles. If it was a full drain, all 14 or so quarts, and never overheated I would go to 45,000-60,000 probably but only getting 50% out at a time on a good day means I have to do it more often to reduce the old burnt crap in it.
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Old 06-27-2017, 03:55 PM   #29406
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
Decided to pick up some more CVTF. Will wait until the brutal part of summer is over so all the burning gets done, then get that crap out, probably drain, fill, drive a day or two, drain, fill, and possibly once more.

After that I think I'll be doing it every 15,000- 22,500 miles. If it was a full drain, all 14 or so quarts, and never overheated I would go to 45,000-60,000 probably but only getting 50% out at a time on a good day means I have to do it more often to reduce the old burnt crap in it.
Does no one make a cvt heatsink for this car?
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Old 06-27-2017, 04:04 PM   #29407
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
Does no one make a cvt heatsink for this car?
A trans cooler? They're pretty generic, you should be able to run new lines and a standalone cooler and drop the temps. I assume it's like most autos and a section of the radiator is used as a trans cooler.
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Old 06-27-2017, 05:10 PM   #29408
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Hey guys, looking at purchasing a used 2012 2.0i hatch with a 5 speed, should I be worried about the oil consumption issues that I've read about? I've done some research but I'm still confused as to what the issue is, if it pertains to every car, and is it still an issue in slightly newer 2.0s?

-Thanks
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Old 06-27-2017, 05:38 PM   #29409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
Does no one make a cvt heatsink for this car?
https://www.mishimoto.com/subaru-wrx...er-kit-15.html

Costs about as much as a slightly used CVT from ebay.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrickNipple View Post
A trans cooler? They're pretty generic, you should be able to run new lines and a standalone cooler and drop the temps. I assume it's like most autos and a section of the radiator is used as a trans cooler.
It uses a stacked plate heat exchanger that dumps the heat directly into the coolant. In other words, it's nearly impossible to get it much below coolant temperature the way it is, although you can see it running 175-180 when it's cool out even though the coolant is still 200 degrees, I assume because of the transmission housing dumping some heat into the air.

Quote:
Originally Posted by suavesubie View Post
Hey guys, looking at purchasing a used 2012 2.0i hatch with a 5 speed, should I be worried about the oil consumption issues that I've read about? I've done some research but I'm still confused as to what the issue is, if it pertains to every car, and is it still an issue in slightly newer 2.0s?

-Thanks
No, there are very few cars with the oil consumption issue and all but a very small fraction of the fraction of a percent that had the issue in the first place have been fixed.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:43 AM   #29410
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Yea what poop said, I think the warranty for the oil consumption was extended to 100,000 miles so if the car has less you should have time to see if it needs a new shortblock before you hit 100,000 miles.
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Old 06-28-2017, 10:29 AM   #29411
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IMO, i wouldn't buy a used 2012 Impreza if you had a choice. I would opt for a 2013 or 2014
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Old 06-28-2017, 01:43 PM   #29412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
IMO, i wouldn't buy a used 2012 Impreza if you had a choice. I would opt for a 2013 or 2014
It's the same car and it'll do nothing special but cost more. Just as many people all the way through the 15s had OC issues. And it was under one percent of owners at that. Really no different than many other car models.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:29 PM   #29413
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Yea I'm pretty sure there is a big myth that first year of a new model has more issues. Totally individual vehicle dependent most of the time. My 2012 still seems like a brand new car and I haven't done anything but typical maintenance so far.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:52 PM   #29414
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Not just about oil consumption, a lot of little things here and there that have probably been improved after the 2012s. Seat squeak, rear hatch latch, now my oil burning smell. Other little things as well. Also, there were quite a few of TSBs for the 2012s as well, what if the previous owner had some of those issues and never got it fixed?


I would stay away from a first year model.
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:00 PM   #29415
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Thank you for the input, hoping to pick one up within the next week
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Old 06-28-2017, 04:13 PM   #29416
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I feel you get it from a dealer the tsbs will be on the car fax, and I think you can look them up. Again have 0 issues with my 2012
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Old 06-28-2017, 07:15 PM   #29417
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Angelus911 View Post
Not just about oil consumption, a lot of little things here and there that have probably been improved after the 2012s. Seat squeak, rear hatch latch, now my oil burning smell. Other little things as well. Also, there were quite a few of TSBs for the 2012s as well, what if the previous owner had some of those issues and never got it fixed?


I would stay away from a first year model.
As far as I know, all TSBs for the 2012 applied to all vehicles 2012-2014. Camshaft position sensor TSB, CVT engine braking TSB, etc. Some of them had separate TSBs but I believe all of them had a TSB for each issue, whether universal or model year specific.
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Old 06-29-2017, 10:19 PM   #29418
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The Castrol Transmax CVTF I got lists Subaru "iCVT Fluid" and "iCVT FG" as well as "Lineartronic High Torque Chain CVT". I imagine there can't be enough of a difference between whatever the hell those are and the plain lineartronic that it would matter, correct? From what I read the only difference is actually the torque converter for the high torque CVT.

I might just go crazy some day and order like 5 boxes of 6 quarts per box, it's only $35 currently on Amazon. Hardly any more expensive than regular ATF.
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Old 06-30-2017, 09:48 AM   #29419
DieselDorf
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At that rate you might go through more cvtf than oil!
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Old 06-30-2017, 12:39 PM   #29420
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Well when it has a capacity of 14 quarts and you can only get out 6 on a good day, the best you can do is multiple drain and fills to get all the old junk out to keep the fluid fresh.
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Old 07-01-2017, 10:06 AM   #29421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by suavesubie View Post
Hey guys, looking at purchasing a used 2012 2.0i hatch with a 5 speed, should I be worried about the oil consumption issues that I've read about? I've done some research but I'm still confused as to what the issue is, if it pertains to every car, and is it still an issue in slightly newer 2.0s?

-Thanks
Yes you should be worried. Don't risk it if it's out of warranty. Aim for a 14 or above when the issue was occurring at a smaller rate. I have a 2012 5 speed. I've had 3 short block replacements. The latest from a 2014 which has finally solved the problem.
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Old 07-01-2017, 12:31 PM   #29422
drpoop
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So apparently the gas gauge goes to zero bars before it's empty. Interesting.

Believe me I wouldn't run it that low normally, but I had to drive this morning and forgot my wallet so I couldn't get any gas until I got home again. I try to avoid ever having the gas light on. It's maybe OK when I take everything out of the car and try to run it as light as possible to have fun which happens like once a year.
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Old 07-01-2017, 03:25 PM   #29423
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Originally Posted by gregorz4 View Post
Yes you should be worried. Don't risk it if it's out of warranty. Aim for a 14 or above when the issue was occurring at a smaller rate. I have a 2012 5 speed. I've had 3 short block replacements. The latest from a 2014 which has finally solved the problem.
Same here. I have a 2012 and Subaru replaced my shortblock
For a 2nd time 2 weeks ago. Hope it solves the problem. If yours seem to
Have stopped. There's hope for
Me ***128536;

Last edited by kanjii; 07-01-2017 at 03:30 PM.
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Old 07-02-2017, 04:10 AM   #29424
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drpoop View Post
So apparently the gas gauge goes to zero bars before it's empty. Interesting.

Believe me I wouldn't run it that low normally, but I had to drive this morning and forgot my wallet so I couldn't get any gas until I got home again. I try to avoid ever having the gas light on. It's maybe OK when I take everything out of the car and try to run it as light as possible to have fun which happens like once a year.
The trip meter will go to no distance calculated for range before running out too. It will drop from 20 to three blank lines. Don't ask how I know this.
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Old 07-02-2017, 12:15 PM   #29425
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Originally Posted by Dirt Bringer View Post
The trip meter will go to no distance calculated for range before running out too. It will drop from 20 to three blank lines. Don't ask how I know this.
I get there all the time, nearly every tank. I don't like filling up before < 1 gallon left on my normal routes where there are plenty of gas stations.

The 'low fuel' light will come on when there is still plenty of gas left. The trip meter estimation is also about 40 miles pessimistic. I think it's all calibrated to warn you that you are about to be completely empty when you have 1 gallon left.
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