2012 Impreza thread

[nubsub]

hi all,

wondering if anyone else has encountered this...

the rubber button that electronically releases the rear hatchback door on my 2012 Impreza Limited has gotten a little sticky. not horribly so, but it concerns me because i encountered something similar with my wife's 2007 Toyota Prius which had a defect that led to this material decomposing and ultimately clogging and damaging the switch. i'm hoping this won't happen here but this symptom seems similar to what we encountered about 6-7 years into ownership of her Prius.

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[DieselDorf]

Mine seems fine on my 2012.

What exactly do you mean by sticky?

The button is mushy to the touch? Or is it sticking in the open/closed position?

[flyboy1100]

update on my brakes. my friend rode with me, and jogged near car.....it only does it when brakes are warm. and definitely related to lightly applying or releasing the brakes at slow speeds. i have quite a few hot spots on my rotors, so i do wonder if they aren't just "stickier" for lack of a better term in certain spots and grab/hold a bit better.

i pulled wheels off, everything is free, nothing moves that should be tight. so i guess i will plan on new rotors, probably pads too... when i do my engine......

[SubaruLee]

Originally Posted by flyboy1100

update on my brakes. my friend rode with me, and jogged near car.....it only does it when brakes are warm. and definitely related to lightly applying or releasing the brakes at slow speeds. i have quite a few hot spots on my rotors, so i do wonder if they aren't just "stickier" for lack of a better term in certain spots and grab/hold a bit better.

i pulled wheels off, everything is free, nothing moves that should be tight. so i guess i will plan on new rotors, probably pads too... when i do my engine......

Possible you have a rock or something stuck in dust shield or something? Mine have made a creaking dull metallic noise occasionally, especially when cold. Pressing and releasing the brake slowly as the car is moving off a stop or into a parking spot. At first I thought a my driver caliper was sticking/seizing I since changed my front passenger caliper 30k miles prior, took it to a shop and they said they’re working fine. I think the pad just sticks a little under certain circumstances but I can’t explain why this wasn’t prevelant in its earlier mileage. On a side note if you’d like to save a little money on brake parts. Look into the centric premium cryo treated rotors and matching premium ceramic pads, I think I bought all 4 corners in a kit for less than $275 on partsgeek. They brake alright, I cant give a 100% fair assessment due to the state of the rest of my suspension but I’d say they’re pretty comparable to stock.

[nubsub]

Originally Posted by DieselDorf

Mine seems fine on my 2012.

What exactly do you mean by sticky?

The button is mushy to the touch? Or is it sticking in the open/closed position?

the button has a "stickiness" to it as if there is some double-sided tape or sticker residue on it. at least on the Prius, it was a decay of the rubber compound due to exposure to UV light.

here's a link to one fix/description of problem on Prius. my Impreza is nowhere near this, but i'm afraid it may get there in a couple of years...

http://www.instructables.com/id/2007...-Latch-REPAIR/

[DieselDorf]

My brakes are the same way squeal slightly under certain conditions nothing crazy though.

I wouldn't replace them unless they are wobbly or aren't working right. Otherwise you are wasting time and money.

[Angelus911]

So I did a lengthy test yesterday of my AC pressures, and it appears that the low pressure side is slightly low, and the high pressure side is above the max, according to the service manual.

Temp from the vents inside ranged from 48-51, so the temps seem good, almost too cold.

According to the service manual, it appears that if the high pressure side is high, you're supposed to drain the system, pull vacuum, and then recharge? Is there any other way to remedy the high pressure side? I'm thinking that this is why the compressor is cycling off and on frequently on the highway, leading to undesirable driving characteristics.

[flyboy1100]

Originally Posted by Angelus911

So I did a lengthy test yesterday of my AC pressures, and it appears that the low pressure side is slightly low, and the high pressure side is above the max, according to the service manual.

Temp from the vents inside ranged from 48-51, so the temps seem good, almost too cold.

According to the service manual, it appears that if the high pressure side is high, you're supposed to drain the system, pull vacuum, and then recharge? Is there any other way to remedy the high pressure side? I'm thinking that this is why the compressor is cycling off and on frequently on the highway, leading to undesirable driving characteristics.

Clean the condensor, if it cant transfer the heat it will make the high pressure side even higher. W/o service manual in front of me i cant tell you when the high pressure cutoff is, but it is pretty damn high IIRC

If the low side is low, i would try to get in the middle of the range.

[flyboy1100]

Originally Posted by SubaruLee

Possible you have a rock or something stuck in dust shield or something? Mine have made a creaking dull metallic noise occasionally, especially when cold. Pressing and releasing the brake slowly as the car is moving off a stop or into a parking spot. At first I thought a my driver caliper was sticking/seizing I since changed my front passenger caliper 30k miles prior, took it to a shop and they said they’re working fine. I think the pad just sticks a little under certain circumstances but I can’t explain why this wasn’t prevelant in its earlier mileage. On a side note if you’d like to save a little money on brake parts. Look into the centric premium cryo treated rotors and matching premium ceramic pads, I think I bought all 4 corners in a kit for less than $275 on partsgeek. They brake alright, I cant give a 100% fair assessment due to the state of the rest of my suspension but I’d say they’re pretty comparable to stock.

Definitely not, lots of hot spots though, and the back side has some rust ridges..... I should have just replaced them

[Angelus911]

Originally Posted by flyboy1100

Clean the condensor, if it cant transfer the heat it will make the high pressure side even higher. W/o service manual in front of me i cant tell you when the high pressure cutoff is, but it is pretty damn high IIRC

If the low side is low, i would try to get in the middle of the range.

stupid question - if I top off the low pressure side to raise it to the middle of the range, will that raise the high pressure side even higher? I'll check the service manual re: the condenser

[flyboy1100]

Originally Posted by Angelus911

stupid question - if I top off the low pressure side to raise it to the middle of the range, will that raise the high pressure side even higher? I'll check the service manual re: the condenser

It will, how high was the high?
The condenser is in front of your radiator

[Commander Keen]

So I did a lengthy test yesterday of my AC pressures, and it appears that the low pressure side is slightly low, and the high pressure side is above the max, according to the service manual.

Temp from the vents inside ranged from 48-51, so the temps seem good, almost too cold.

According to the service manual, it appears that if the high pressure side is high, you're supposed to drain the system, pull vacuum, and then recharge? Is there any other way to remedy the high pressure side? I'm thinking that this is why the compressor is cycling off and on frequently on the highway, leading to undesirable driving characteristics.

48-51 is nowhere near too cold.

The only thing the FSM procedure will do is get the system back to a known state of charge.

A clogged or failing TXV can produce the symptoms you describe. Cycling can be due to the evaporator getting too cold (normal), or extreme pressures. In your case, it sounds like the latter.

You could try removing some refrigerant.

[flyboy1100]

I would like to know his outside temp and pressures.

[Angelus911]

So yesterday when I tested, it was 86-87 outside. I calculated these values from the service manual:

Low pressure upper limit: 44.9617 PSI
Low pressure lower limit: 31.9083 PSI

High pressure upper limit: 217.557 PSI
High pressure lower limit: 166.7934 PSI

(from MPa to PSI for my manifold gauge).

High pressure was 240 PSI
Low Pressure was 26 PSI

I will probably re-run the test tomorrow as its supposed to be low 80s to confirm the readings

[Commander Keen]

This book has some good information about tuning and troubleshooting A/C systems using superheat and subcooling.

What I got from pages 269-270:

Superheat is the temperature rise of the evaporator outlet (at the firewall) over the boiling point of R134a at the current low-side pressure. It indicates how much heat the refrigerant picks up as a gas. For a TXV (vs fixed orifice) system like ours, this shouldn't be used to determine charge, but can tell you if the TXV is working properly. It should be around 12F. Too high a superheat means the evaporator doesn't have enough liquid refrigerant in it.

Subcooling is the opposite; It's how much heat the refrigerant sheds after it condenses. You measure this by subtracting the condenser outlet temperature from the condensing point of the refrigerant at the current high-side pressure. This should be 8-15F depending on ambient temperature.

Basically, these measurements give you an idea of the liquid/gas split in both the condenser and evaporator.

If both superheat and subcooling are high or low, it indicates a TXV issue.

If one is high and the other is low, the charge is incorrect.

[Angelus911]

On another note, what do you guys recommend using to clean the oil leak from all over my engine? I have brake clean, but I’m hesitant to use it because it’s a really tight area and not sure if I can properly protect items that shouldn’t get brake clean on it. Would any engine degreaser suffice?

[Commander Keen]

A strong mix of Simple Green or Purple Power will remove oil without harming anything.

Harbor Freight sells a cheap air powered engine cleaning tool that's great for blasting cleaning solution in tight spaces.

[flyboy1100]

Originally Posted by Angelus911

On another note, what do you guys recommend using to clean the oil leak from all over my engine? I have brake clean, but I’m hesitant to use it because it’s a really tight area and not sure if I can properly protect items that shouldn’t get brake clean on it. Would any engine degreaser suffice?

not brake clean in this case, it softens RTV, which as we know is most of the sealing surfaces on our engines

[Angelus911]

Originally Posted by flyboy1100

not brake clean in this case, it softens RTV, which as we know is most of the sealing surfaces on our engines

Good thing I asked! Thanks, and thanks keen for the recommendations. Removed the plastic liner from under the engine for now to clean, and then see where the leaks are coming from. May or may not try UV dye once clean to help pinpoint the leaks

[Commander Keen]

Clean up the area and cover the seams where you suspect a leak with 2" masking tape.

[Angelus911]

So I retried my AC readings today, and they seemed to point a clearer picture.

84 outside, dew point almost 64.

Low Pressure side was 25 PSI
High Pressure side was 195 PSI
Air from the vents got down to 42 inside

I didn't say it at the time, but when I did the test a couple days ago, I got 2 readings - the ones I posted on here were the higher ones. The lower ones I had that day were:

Low: 26.5 PSI
High: 217.5 PSI

Given those numbers and todays, it seems like the low pressure side is low, the high pressure side on the first day is right at the max, today was lower.

Not sure if its worth it to top off the low side to get it up around 35 PSI or so. Maybe this will stop the compressor from cycling so frequently?

Either way, plan on cleaning the condenser when time allows using this method:

Increasing AC Performance by Cleaning Your Condenser -EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

Increasing AC Performance by Cleaning Your Condenser -EricTheCarGuy - YouTube

He didn't notice a change in the temp from the vents, but on that car the high pressure side dropped 60 PSI. So, if I charge the low side to 35 PSI and the high side goes up, cleaning it will prob improve the pressure a lot.

[Angelus911]

Originally Posted by Commander Keen

Clean up the area and cover the seams where you suspect a leak with 2" masking tape.

Will do, thanks,

Took a look at the engine with the bottom cover off today and what a mess everything is. Oil is basically everywhere. Caked on, liquid you name it. Also disconcerting is the face that I've used about .5 qts of oil in 3800 miles now.

Now, that isn't a lot, but its a noticeable increase to what it has been, which was basically nothing over 6500 miles. I've been driving more now since we've moved for work, so I'm thinking that could be part of the cause (70 miles a day vs 10 miles before).

[flyboy1100]

When i was looking the other day under my car i took a quick peek at the engine to see any other cvt vs 5mt differences and i noticed the cam carrier seam on the drivers side is starting to seep, so good thing it's coming out...not leaking yet, but getting damn and gold colored with oil.....

[DieselDorf]

Originally Posted by Angelus911

Will do, thanks,

Took a look at the engine with the bottom cover off today and what a mess everything is. Oil is basically everywhere. Caked on, liquid you name it. Also disconcerting is the face that I've used about .5 qts of oil in 3800 miles now.

Now, that isn't a lot, but its a noticeable increase to what it has been, which was basically nothing over 6500 miles. I've been driving more now since we've moved for work, so I'm thinking that could be part of the cause (70 miles a day vs 10 miles before).

If it's getting a lot hotter out like it is where I am you will burn more oil as well.

If you need to get oil off of cement there is no better way than a pumice bar.

No liquid it just sticks to the bar as it flakes off then you either sweep or shop vac the particles up.

[Commander Keen]

I just installed the blower motor cover.

Well worth doing if you're interested in noise reduction.

Absorbs most blower motor noise and some engine noise as well.